Master Water Test Kit

Woodsman27
  • #41
Just do a quick 50% water change now, add the prime after you take the water out and before you put more in (dose about half a capful) you need to treat the whole tank. What are your levels? Also add some tss AFTER the water change, monitor levels and dose with prime after that for the next couple of days. I had to do a heck of aloalot of whater changes at this point but that's just me.
 
Dave125g
  • #42
I don't think the beginning of a cycle will drop the ph that much. I would add the safe start. Follow the directions on the box. Safe start is supposed to be added right before adding the fish, so I would do a very large water change first then add the safe start. Hold off on prime for the first 2 days. We're getting ahead of ourselves a bit. Before adding coral we really need to know if it's necessary, and we would need to know the exact kh you have. With a low kh the ph can become unstable stressing and even shocking the fish. That's usually the only time I recommend it. You would have to monitor the ph every day for a couple of weeks.

If your have trouble getting cycled after a few weeks then we'll talk about buffering with coral.
 
George Sharp
  • Thread Starter
  • #43
One question. Should I put a new filter cartridge in since I'm starting basically from day 1?
 
George Sharp
  • Thread Starter
  • #44
Just asking incase there is still some of that fin rot medicine artimiss in it.
 
Dave125g
  • #45
Yeah it's not gonna hurt. You have no cycle any how.
 
Dave125g
  • #46
How is everything going?
 
George Sharp
  • Thread Starter
  • #47
How is everything going?
Doing good. I did a big water change. Retested everything. The ph was still really low. Ammonia was .5-1. Still no nitrites. I was going to test again this morning. Ill let you know what readings are. Its been a couple days so I assume now if ammonia is higher I should add my first dose of Prime. Ive been using apI stress coat to dechlor the water during changes.
 

Dave125g
  • #48
Doing good. I did a big water change. Retested everything. The ph was still really low. Ammonia was .5-1. Still no nitrites. I was going to test again this morning. Ill let you know what readings are. Its been a couple days so I assume now if ammonia is higher I should add my first dose of Prime. Ive been using apI stress coat to dechlor the water during changes.
You should be adding prime whenever there is ammonia present. It can be dosed every 24 hours. If ammonia + nitrite = 2 or higher it's time for a water change.

Stress coat + is ok as a dechlorinator, but unnecessary. You'll most likely be needing prime daily anyway. Prime also has dechlorinator in it.

How are the fish doing? All healthy now?
 
Dave125g
  • #49
Doing good. I did a big water change. Retested everything. The ph was still really low. Ammonia was .5-1. Still no nitrites. I was going to test again this morning. Ill let you know what readings are. Its been a couple days so I assume now if ammonia is higher I should add my first dose of Prime. Ive been using apI stress coat to dechlor the water during changes.
You should be adding prime whenever there is ammonia present. It can be dosed every 24 hours. If ammonia + nitrite = 2 or higher it's time for a water change.

Stress coat + is ok as a dechlorinator, but unnecessary. You'll most likely be needing prime daily anyway. Prime also has dechlorinator in it.

How are the fish doing? All healthy now?
 
George Sharp
  • Thread Starter
  • #50
Yeah fish are great. Healthy looking. I wasn't able to do large water change till friday night. So today is the wait a couple days then treat with prime. My fish with high bouyancy issue has never gotten better. He is still floating at top but responsive. Ive given him numerous epson salt baths and peas but nothing has changed. Its been like this a couple weeks. Not sure what else to do for him. Online says its rarely fatal but I don't want him living life stuck at the surface.
 
George Sharp
  • Thread Starter
  • #51
Tests as of 5 min ago
 

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George Sharp
  • Thread Starter
  • #52
I did treat with prime this morning after reading your reply
 
Dave125g
  • #53
Your getting close with the cycle. I'm getting almost 2ppm ammonia ? If so time to do a water change.

Can you post a picture of the fish with a swim blatter issue? Swim blatter issues are usually due to an injury of some kind.
 
George Sharp
  • Thread Starter
  • #54
Just curious I thought you werent supposed to do a water change for 2 weeks with tss?
 

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George Sharp
  • Thread Starter
  • #55
Other fish look healthy
 

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Dave125g
  • #56
Yes your right. Sorry.

You should remove that glowskirt and euthanize him he's not gonna make it.
 
George Sharp
  • Thread Starter
  • #57
Ive talked to my wife about it....
 

George Sharp
  • Thread Starter
  • #58
Anyway you recommend it humanely?
 
Dave125g
  • #59
Yes. At this point there's no coming back for this poor fish. Clove oil works best. If you have it. If not ice water. Most humane way. It's never fun but as a fish keeper it must be done from time to time.

The others look fantastic BTW.
 
George Sharp
  • Thread Starter
  • #60
I bought some argonite and a mesh pouch. Do you know how much I should put in pouch? Ph is still low and no changes to nitrites using TSS. I don't think I have room in filter to add pouch. I have that led pro. Thank you
 
Dave125g
  • #61
I bought some argonite and a mesh pouch. Do you know how much I should put in pouch? Ph is still low and no changes to nitrites using TSS. I don't think I have room in filter to add pouch. I have that led pro. Thank you
Just do this a little bit at a time. Check KH and ph daily. You don't want to up these levels too much too fast.
 
George Sharp
  • Thread Starter
  • #62
You think like half a cup and just set it in back of fish tank?
 
Dave125g
  • #63
You think like half a cup and just set it in back of fish tank?
I would start with a tablespoon or 2. Test it daily for a week and see where you stand.
 
George Sharp
  • Thread Starter
  • #64
I should be able to fit that in filter
 
Dave125g
  • #65
I should be able to fit that in filter
Yeah there's room for that.
 
George Sharp
  • Thread Starter
  • #66
Bought another thing of TSS gonna see if this raises the ph. Then ill try again
 
Cichlidude
  • #67
My 2 cents here. Not much is going to happen with a low PH. You're going to need to get it to 6.5 (and above) so the bacteria will start. Lights out will help along with raising the water temperature. Bacteria like that.
 

Bettafishgal
  • #68
Is one box for one fish or can I use it for four of mine and one of my sisters? If I can how do I clean it to where sickness wouldnt spread?
 
Morpheus1967
  • #69
Mark one of the tubes as your sisters and only use on her tank. Just make sure you rinse it out really well between each test.
 
Bettafishgal
  • #70
Mark one of the tubes as your sisters and only use on her tank. Just make sure you rinse it out really well between each test.
Okay, how hot should the water be so that I can clean it that well? (I already understand no soap because that would kill/hurt the fish) Also right now I have finrot so afterwards should I throw away the tube and buy a new one?
 
Smalltownfishfriend
  • #71
Use a separate syringe to fill the tubes then you won't have a problem! Just have a syringe for each tank.
 
Morpheus1967
  • #72
Use a separate syringe to fill the tubes then you won't have a problem! Just have a syringe for each tank.

You're still possibly cross contaminating because the tank water is still going in the tube, which I think the OP is concerned about.

Okay, how hot should the water be so that I can clean it that well? (I already understand no soap because that would kill/hurt the fish) Also right now I have finrot so afterwards should I throw away the tube and buy a new one?

I just use hot water, as hot as I can stand, and rinse after each test for about 15 seconds. But if they are cheap enough, and it puts your mind at ease, then sure. Go ahead and toss it and purchase new ones as needed.
 
kallililly1973
  • #73
Hold it under very hot water for a minute or so using tweeezers or place them in a cup n let the hot water run through them for a minute or so
 
Bettafishgal
  • #74
You're still possibly cross contaminating because the tank water is still going in the tube, which I think the OP is concerned about.



I just use hot water, as hot as I can stand, and rinse after each test for about 15 seconds. But if they are cheap enough, and it puts your mind at ease, then sure. Go ahead and toss it and purchase new ones as needed.
Thanks! I know this sound's very cheap but can I use a cup that I can drink out off?
 
Smalltownfishfriend
  • #75
You're still possibly cross contaminating because the tank water is still going in the tube, which I think the OP is concerned about.



I just use hot water, as hot as I can stand, and rinse after each test for about 15 seconds. But if they are cheap enough, and it puts your mind at ease, then sure. Go ahead and toss it and purchase new ones as needed.
There would be no cross contamination from tank to tank....?
 
kallililly1973
  • #76
Or just use a plastic or styrofoam throw away cup that way u know it’s new and never been washed with soap
 
mattgirl
  • #77
I hadn't even considered that some folks dip their test tubes in the tank to fill them. I started out using my turkey baster but quickly switched over to using a needle-less syringe.

If cleaning them is a concern you can buy a tiny bottle brush. The brush and very hot water would be more economical than tossing the test tube.
 
Morpheus1967
  • #78
There would be no cross contamination from tank to tank....?

I think residual. Like something may hang around afterwards even after rinsing.
 
Bettafishgal
  • #79
Or just use a plastic or styrofoam throw away cup that way u know it’s new and never been washed with soap
Their might be chemical's in the styrfoam
 
Algonquin
  • #80
Air dry the test tubes between uses (or use a bit of rolled up paper towel to wipe they dry). Any bacteria that is left in there (which would be so minimal) would die if it's dried out.
 

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