Marine Ich... Help!

penguin02

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Here's my build thread if you want more details: 28g Cube Build

Tank stocking:
1x firefish
1x balloon molly
1x yellow clown goby
1x coral banded shrimp
3x turbo snails
1x tuxedo urchin
2x emerald crabs
1x GSP
1x trumpet coral

The molly and firefish both have ich for sure, and I suspect that the goby probably introduced it to the tank. But the bottom line is I have ich and I really don't want to set up a quarantine tank to treat them.

Does anyone have experience with copper-free meds that are invert and coral safe? Ruby Reef has mixed reviews, so I'm a little scared to use that. I'm doing my own research so I'll link other meds that look okay as soon as I find them.

This is our first saltwater tank, and although I own freshwater tanks, this is also my first-ever ich experience. I appreciate any help or advice you can give us.

EDIT: This has some good and bad reviews, but it seems like the best option. Ideas?

EDIT 2: So after some research.... it appears that most medications will only mask the ick and you'll end up getting it again. Is this true?

EDIT 3: https://www.amazon.com/Anti-parasitic-Caviar-Live-Coral-Fish/dp/B00LBGQF6K Just gonna keep linking my findings. What about medicating their food?
 

Jesterrace

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Honestly the only sure fire way to get rid of ich is to go fishless for 3-4 months in your display tank and go with ALL NEW properly QT'ed fish (Yes, there are some folks who have pulled their surviving fish out and properly QT'ed them for months and then add them back to the main tank only to have them get ich again). Given that is probably not an option for you, you can go with an ich maintenance tank, which means you keep it under relative control but understand that you will always have it and it will be there and may periodically pick off your fish. There are a few options you can try. Kent's Marine Garlic Xtreme being one. This helps boost the fish's immune system and makes the food more desirable to them. You add one to two drops to a cup of water with your food of choice and let it marinate for several hours (if you do frozen foods and need to stick it in the fridge, make sure to seal the cup it is in with food wrap or it will stink up your whole fridge). You can also try a Product like Fritz Aquatics Mardel Parashield. Both of these methods are reef safe (unlike copper which will kill your corals and inverts). As mentioned you will need to be prepared that these methods may or may not work and you might lose some of your fish. I can't say for sure whether or not the Kent's Marine worked but I did have a wrasse that developed a white spot on it's tail that grew and covered a section of it's tail and I fed added the Kent's Garlic for a couple of weeks to my Reef Frenzy and eventually the spot cleared up and disappeared. The wrasse appears to be active and happy and is still with me with no signs of ill effect months later. Here is an overview of the Kent's Garlic:

 
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penguin02

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Thank you. I'm thinking about trying Ruby Reef but I'll do more research on Kent's Garlic as well.

Others have had success with ich medication in a reef tank, so I'm hoping I get lucky.
 

Jayd976

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No such thing as a reef safe med. If there was it would cost a fortune as the money it would save you in losses. However, I will say I'm battling ich now in my 75 gallon marine tank. I put the fish that introduced it and came down with it the worst in QT and treating him with first freshwater baths in methylene blue which helped, but didnt kill it all. I then started dosing the QT tank with Hikari Ich-X which doesnt seem to have been effective. With large water changes daily I've been able to get the ich under control by sucking out the cysts before then can respawn and attack the fish. While I'm waiting for all the Ich-X to be removed from the water by water changes and carbon I'm getting ready to start copper (Seachem Cupramine) treatment tomorrow to completely eradicate it. Now, to your point about "reef safe" meds that have been effective... While I said theres no such thing and I pulled out that one fish and put in QT to treat. I'm also treating the main display as a couple fish started to show some spots. I'm treating the main tank with Kordon Ich Attack as its all natural and safe for fish, coral and inverts. Now I wont say it cured the tank, but it has made the ich manageable and signs of it has diminished to almost nothing. I dont believe it completely kills the ich, but makes it manageable. All of the fish in display are doing great and I'm continuing to treat for a couple weeks after even though I dont see anymore signs of ich. You can follow along on my thread for all the details how things progressed page 13 will start off the ich issue.

75 Gallon Sw Build

As mentioned the only true way to eradicate ich from the system is to go fallow for about 76-80 days to starve out the parasite.

Edit:
What happens in most cases with treating with a bandaid method is the fish develop a temporary immunity to ich. But the cycle usually gets brought out again when you introduce a new fish to the tank given their stress they get ich and then it explodes to everyone all over again. Your fish are small get yourself a cheap 20 gallon tank, Hob (seed with your display tank media) heater, no sand just bare bottom and a piece of PVC pipe for a hideout. Treat that tank with copper for 30 days. Keep them in there for about 76 days and monitor them. Then return them to main tank by then the ich should have all died off.
 
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penguin02

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Thank you for the advice. I am fully prepared to get a tank and filter to set up a quarantine (already have extra media and heater) but I want to avoid it if possible. That's why I'm trying to get some medication recommendations to try first so we don't have to go through the trouble of quarantine. Plus, my dad really doesn't want any more tanks to deal with and it will be hard to convince him unless we've already tried other options.

But if the meds fail or if the ich pops up again I'll certainly do the fallow method.
 

Culprit

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Its really not that complicated. You can keep your original fish, but you need a QT. You cannot treat in tank. Unless you want to kill all your coral possibly and mabye lose your cycle, and have all your rock and sand soak up meds. I get that you don't want to get a QT. But you need to. Especially since if you do deal with this without a QT, any new fish you add could very possibly restart everything. In saltwater, unless you have lots of money or only 1 or 2 fish a QT is a must. I found that out the hard way.

Get a 10 gallon simple aqueon tank for $10 during petco or pet supplies plus DPG sale. Get a oversized filter, I use an aqueon 30 for my 10. An airstone/pump is also a must, oversized is best. Also some pvc pipes and elbows for hiding places.

Set it up, put a sponge filter in the back of your main tank for about a month. Or, if you have to QT now, which it sounds like you do need to, get some biomedia like LR rubble or seachem matrix, and put in some kick start cycle. All of it. That should keep the fish safe, but constantly test for ammonia the first week or two.

Copper meds are by far the safest, and easiest meds to treat ich with. Its tried and true. If you set up a QT, definitely use it. Get Seachem Cupramine and a salifert or seachem test kit. Do not get coppersafe or and API test kit.

Simple treatment, put all your fish in QT. Start copper treatment, raise copper to 0.5 ppm over the course of a week. Let them be in the copper for 30 days. Test two or three times a week for copper and ammonia. If copper levels drop below 0.5 ppm you have to dose back up to 0.5ppm and restart the 30 day clock.

Leave the DT fallow for 76 days. This is the longest ich has ever been recorded to live. Keep the fish in QT until the 76 days have been up. After 76 days, put fish back in, congratulations, disease free! Now just QT all new additions.

You can also use Chloroquine Phosphate, but you have to get it from a pharmacy which can be kind of hard. "So why do you want CP again??"

I would not recommend trying to treat in tank. It will very possibly kill your inverts, and if it does, and then your rock soaks it up you have to throw out the rock.

I would suggest if you do QT with copper, while the fish are just in QT waiting for fallow period to be done, do a treatment of Prazi Pro. Its not too expensive, and lots of times fish, even freshwater will have internal or external parasites, which you don't even know they're there until treatment. It helps them a lot.

Read this link on treating ich https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-cryptocaryon-irritans.191226/ it will help convince your Dad the right thing to do is QT. You will save yourself so much time and money in the long run if you spend the time and etra money now. It seems like its not but it is. Read this on copper too. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/copper-treatment.193343/

The guy that wrote those articles is incredibly knowledgeable about disease. I have no idea how many people he has helped. Its a ton. Here is a phrase from one of his articles:

Remember there is no "reef safe" ich treatment that will actually eradicate all of the parasites! Tea tree oil from India or garlic extract or any other herbal/natural "medication" is designed to only help fish manage their symptoms.

If you do not QT and let DT lay fallow you will always have ich in the tank, whenever fish get stressed, or a new fish is added everything will come down with ich again.
 
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