Lots Of Nitrates But Plants Die Help 

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Tris

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Hey guys so I have a lot of nitrate in all my tanks, 40+ , we have nitrates in our tap. I’ve tried duckweed, salvinia , Anacharis, all those nitrate sucking plants but they don’t survive and end up dying off. I have other plants in my tank too, Amazon Swords, Anubias, water sprite, which are doing okay but not very well and start dying off too. I’m
Confused because apparently plants love nitrates? But I can’t even keep duckweed Alive unfortunately. And I really want to lower my nitrates, I use pothos too.
 

DoubleDutch

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Do you know phosphates as well? And are you adding microferts as well?

Nitrates are only a part of the ferts used by plants and is only usable in combination with other ferts.
 

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Salem

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A few things;
make sure you have a decent light
what is your ph? some plants dont like particularily high or low ph
how much surface aggitation is there? I used to have a lot of trouble with floating plants until I realized my filter was splashing water on them and shoving them under.
what do they look like as theyre dying? do they turn yellow and/or white?
 
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Tris

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DoubleDutch said:
Do you onow phosfates as well? And are you adding microferts as well?

Nitrates are only a part of the ferts used by plants and is only usable in combination with other ferts.
Yes so I’ve been adding flourish, flourish excel, iron, potassium. And just recently purchased their phosphates and dose that once in awhile. Still no luck

CheshireKat said:
Yeah, you need to still provide other nutrients with fertilizer. Root-feeders need root tabs if your substrate doesn't have enough, and stem plants feed from the water column so need liquid fertilizer.
Yes I use flourish root tabs, and flourish, flourish excel, iron , potassium

Salem said:
A few things;
make sure you have a decent light
what is your ph? some plants dont like particularily high or low ph
how much surface aggitation is there? I used to have a lot of trouble with floating plants until I realized my filter was splashing water on them and shoving them under.
what do they look like as theyre dying? do they turn yellow and/or white?
My ph is around 7.2, my light I would say it good for low light plants, I have a beamswork
Surface agitation I would say medium , but doesn’t splash water on the plants and shove them under. Usually they turn white, just clear. My amazon sword leaves too, they turn clear
 

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For the anacharis, don't dose the flourish excel. Excel has been known to melt anacharis. The plants turning clear may indicate an iron deficiency.
 

-Mak-

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What light do you have? Plants are opportunistic, I think with just some nutrients they would survive even if they don't thrive and look stunted.
 

gray_matter16

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-Mak- said:
Plants are opportunistic, I think with just some nutrients they would survive even if they don't thrive and look stunted.
Totally agree.

I have all of the plants listed as well and mine are doing just fine. The difference from what I can tell is co2. I have co2 diffused into my tank, as well as lots of fish that expel co2 when they breathe. I dose similar to you, minus Flourish excel. Excel is not a co2 replacement. I forget exactly how, but there is a difference about co2 diffused or reacted into a tank versus flourish excel. Do you have any fish in the tank? If you did, 40+ nitrates is getting pretty high for them.

If your question is how to lower nitrates, you'll need to do some water changes with distilled or RO water. If your question is how to get plants to grow in high nitrate water, I would say co2 deficiency is the issue- since you've established that you're ferting all the other macros and most micros. Vishaquatics mentioned iron being low, but you said you dose iron. How often? I've been told to dose iron daily or every other day, so maybe increase your iron dosing.
 
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-Mak- said:
What light do you have? Plants are opportunistic, I think with just some nutrients they would survive even if they don't thrive and look stunted.
I have beamswork, I have been trying to get better lights. Any you’d recommend that aren’t super pricey

gray_matter16 said:
Totally agree.

I have all of the plants listed as well and mine are doing just fine. The difference from what I can tell is co2. I have co2 diffused into my tank, as well as lots of fish that expel co2 when they breathe. I dose similar to you, minus Flourish excel. Excel is not a co2 replacement. I forget exactly how, but there is a difference about co2 diffused or reacted into a tank versus flourish excel. Do you have any fish in the tank? If you did, 40+ nitrates is getting pretty high for them.

If your question is how to lower nitrates, you'll need to do some water changes with distilled or RO water. If your question is how to get plants to grow in high nitrate water, I would say co2 deficiency is the issue- since you've established that you're ferting all the other macros and most micros. Vishaquatics mentioned iron being low, but you said you dose iron. How often? I've been told to dose iron daily or every other day, so maybe increase your iron dosing.
Yes I’ve actually had nitrate problem for few months now, got it down to 40s, used to be at 80s at first I want to say. Ro water is a tough call I have large tanks and it will be a lot of waste of water. So I’m trying the plant way, today I’m going to add in a whole bunch more Pothos even though I alrasy have a ton and apparently people see a difference by putting in one root? Makes no sense to me. My tanks are not over stocked either. Probably will purchase another nitrate test instead of api’s kit. Is there any lights you’d recommend? Is there a co2 kit you’d recommend ? I’m not too sure how co2 works . I dose flourish iron about once a week
 

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The beamswork EA series is terrible. The DA and DHL series are decent on the cheap.
Money to splurge then go Fluval 3.0.
 

gray_matter16

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Tris said:
I have a lot of nitrate in all my tanks, 40+ , we have nitrates in our tap.
Is the 40+ nitrate level all from your tap?

Tris said:
Ro water is a tough call I have large tanks and it will be a lot of waste of water.
What size tank(s)?

Tris said:
I dose flourish iron about once a week
I would up this dosing to every other day or daily, but I doubt it is the cure all.

There is likely a combination of things off, an imbalance. That's why, if doable, I would do like 50 or 75% water change with 0 nitrate water wherever you can get it. Maybe a friend's place, or something. I just think getting in a majority of "clean" water and then preventing nitrate from rising is going to be easier than bringing down what you currently have by adding stuff (plants, ferts, lights, etc).
 

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Hi! I'm in your sitch too, I keep large tanks and have/had a nitrAte problem in my 120 gallon. It's not that heavily stocked, but I noticed an accumulation when I collaborated a bunch of fish to this tank. Changing out 80 gallons of water each week just to get them down to 5ppm was getting redundant....

I've added a garden of plants growing emersed, but the truth is they need all the nutrients to grow fast enough to remove enough nitrAte. I started dosing an all-in-one fert, but without nitrate and phosphates (because I already have those) called Profito EasyLife.

I also make sure to siphon the substrate well and keep filters rinsed clean. Detritus accumulation will also increase nitrAte production. It's easy to fall into 'old tank syndrome' when you're keeping large tanks.
 

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Tris said:
Yes I’ve actually had nitrate problem for few months now, got it down to 40s, used to be at 80s at first I want to say. Ro water is a tough call I have large tanks and it will be a lot of waste of water. So I’m trying the plant way, today I’m going to add in a whole bunch more Pothos even though I alrasy have a ton and apparently people see a difference by putting in one root? Makes no sense to me. My tanks are not over stocked either. Probably will purchase another nitrate test instead of api’s kit. Is there any lights you’d recommend? Is there a co2 kit you’d recommend ? I’m not too sure how co2 works . I dose flourish iron about once a week
Your test kit could more than likely be the problem. Everyone including myself has issues with API nitrate test kit especially the number two bottle. This number two bottle needs to be shaken extremely well and once you think it's shaken well enough smack it around and shake it some more. When you're adding drops from this bottle each drop should follow the other without hesitation like its clogged. using the first bottle will give you an indication of how this should work. Another issue with this kit is the color differentials between each. I always considered it as if it's orange then you're fine.....
 
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FishRFriendz said:
The beamswork EA series is terrible. The DA and DHL series are decent on the cheap.
Money to splurge then go Fluval 3.0.
Which one is better from these two?



gray_matter16 said:
Is the 40+ nitrate level all from your tap?


What size tank(s)?


I would up this dosing to every other day or daily, but I doubt it is the cure all.

There is likely a combination of things off, an imbalance. That's why, if doable, I would do like 50 or 75% water change with 0 nitrate water wherever you can get it. Maybe a friend's place, or something. I just think getting in a majority of "clean" water and then preventing nitrate from rising is going to be easier than bringing down what you currently have by adding stuff (plants, ferts, lights, etc).
It’s around 20+ from my tap. I do about a 75-80% water change every week, I have a 150, 65 , 50 . Setting up another big one soon too. Yea that is true.. we are house shopping right now and hopefully when we find another place there won’t be nitrates in the tap

angelcraze said:
Hi! I'm in your sitch too, I keep large tanks and have/had a nitrAte problem in my 120 gallon. It's not that heavily stocked, but I noticed an accumulation when I collaborated a bunch of fish to this tank. Changing out 80 gallons of water each week just to get them down to 5ppm was getting redundant....

I've added a garden of plants growing emersed, but the truth is they need all the nutrients to grow fast enough to remove enough nitrAte. I started dosing an all-in-one fert, but without nitrate and phosphates (because I already have those) called Profito EasyLife.

I also make sure to siphon the substrate well and keep filters rinsed clean. Detritus accumulation will also increase nitrAte production. It's easy to fall into 'old tank syndrome' when you're keeping large tanks.
Which garden plants did u grow emersed? I just googled the profito, how long does it last you? How much are u supposed to dose?

Yea my filters are usually pretty clean every time I do open them up. As for substrate I have sand in two and other one is bare bottom.
Thank you for the tips!!

acjag said:
Your test kit could more than likely be the problem. Everyone including myself has issues with API nitrate test kit especially the number two bottle. This number two bottle needs to be shaken extremely well and once you think it's shaken well enough smack it around and shake it some more. When you're adding drops from this bottle each drop should follow the other without hesitation like its clogged. using the first bottle will give you an indication of how this should work. Another issue with this kit is the color differentials between each. I always considered it as if it's orange then you're fine.....
Yea I may purchase the seachem nitrate test kit, hear that one may be a bit better
 

angelcraze

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Tris said:
Which one is better from these two?
It's the same fixture, but the cheaper one is used and includes a timer.

I have the Beamswork DHL and EA models. Together they are great on my large tanks, but the EA on its own is not enough, even for my 18" deep tanks. The DA series is comparable in PAR to the DHL series, so lots of light.

For cheaper LED lights, I just ordered the Finnex 24/7 slim HLC, it will replace my Beamswork DHL 6500k. It has identical PAR ratings to the Beamswork DA series, just with more options for spectrum and settings. I'm curious if it's worth the extra 30$ or so, I think it will be.

Tris said:
Which garden plants did u grow emersed? I just googled the profito, how long does it last you? How much are u supposed to dose?

Yea my filters are usually pretty clean every time I do open them up. As for substrate I have sand in two and other one is bare bottom.
Thank you for the tips!!
I have a bunch of different plants lol, idk all the names. But I know crotons work, my dragon plant doing well, lucky bamboo and pothos. The spider plants I tried all melted.

I don't dose the full amount of Profito (although I was told to). I only dose 7ml or so every other day in my 120 gallon and it's already made a difference for the stem plants. I've only started with one bottle, but I still have it 3/4 way filled after a month or two. (I lose track of time easily). So it would cost me maybe 35$ every 4-6 months? Just a guesstimate.

Oh that's good about the filters and substrate. I agree, I was always perplexed how my nitrate was accruing like that. I would get mixed up with the nitrate color charts too. Very hard to distinguish between the 10 / 20ppm and 30 / 40ppm.
 

86 ssinit

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Hey just a recommendation for a light. On eBay look up vivagrow 24/7 led light. These lights are cheap and work great. I have the finnex 24/7 also a great light but the vivagrow is less than a third of the price. Have them running together on my 90 and you can’t tell the difference. $50 for a 48” free shipping .
Yes excel is more of an algaecide than co2. I use the api co2 booster and grow both anacharis and hornwort fine. No melt.
Sounds like the only thing your missing is light. Your tanks are deep so the beamworks is not reaching them.
Also I’m looking to get rid of some plants.
F3DBB4D4-3FE5-487E-B028-20DB07B6E842.jpeg
I have anacharis,hornwort, westeria and some java moss to get rid of if your in the states. Just pay shipping.
 

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angelcraze

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FishRFriendz said:
Well the used one sounds like a good deal.

For new, it's cheaper on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Beamswork-FSPEC-Aquarium-Light-Freshwater/dp/B01LFF0878?th=1

They're cheap for their output, the downside is you have to just live with the color cast they bring and sometimes they're too powerful. The DA FSPEC series seems a bit pale to me. I personally like the the DHL 6500K. Get yourself a cheap dimmer
See, I don't like Beamsworks' 6500k. I find it too yellow. I don't even like the 6500K fixture on my 120 gallon and why I only keep it on low setting. I prefer the 10000k with other colours or RBG myself. But I guess my tanks have tannins, so that could make it look more yellow. My favorite BW spectrum is RBG though. 10000k just brightens it up. The fspec looks cooler/bluer than 6500k. Not pale, but cool (if you know what I mean).
 

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I would also test the test kit. I recently went through something similar, where the nitrates in my pond/pool were showing as off the charts, and my tap water was testing near 40 as well (even after banging the heck out of both bottles.) Needless to say, I wasn't relishing the idea of having to haul RO water to a 250+ gallon pool in order to get the nitrates back down to a reasonable level.

I had also gotten a set of dip-strips meant for testing drinking water; it tested for things like iron and copper as well as nitrates and nitrites. I'd tested my tap water with those and it was only showing a trace of nitrates. I then also got some API test strips, and they said the same, only a trace in my tap water.

So, I got a new API kit and tested with that; and the new kit did test lower than the older one had (on the same water samples.) The older one was not out of date by any means, but may have been affected by having been stored in a non-climate-controlled space (where the temps would get above 80F.)

First pic is the pond water on the left, then tap water on the right, and the API strip is testing the tap water (it is showing very faintly pink on the end nitrate pad, even if the picture didn't pick it up that well). Second pic was with a brand-new API test kit, same water (pond on the left, tap on the right; I did both tests one after the other, from the same water samples.)

20190824_111003.jpg 20190824_121545 (1).jpg
 

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Oriongal said:
I would also test the test kit. I recently went through something similar, where the nitrates in my pond/pool were showing as off the charts, and my tap water was testing near 40 as well (even after banging the heck out of both bottles.) Needless to say, I wasn't relishing the idea of having to haul RO water to a 250+ gallon pool in order to get the nitrates back down to a reasonable level.

I had also gotten a set of dip-strips meant for testing drinking water; it tested for things like iron and copper as well as nitrates and nitrites. I'd tested my tap water with those and it was only showing a trace of nitrates. I then also got some API test strips, and they said the same, only a trace in my tap water.

So, I got a new API kit and tested with that; and the new kit did test lower than the older one had (on the same water samples.) The older one was not out of date by any means, but may have been affected by having been stored in a non-climate-controlled space (where the temps would get above 80F.)

First pic is the pond water on the left, then tap water on the right, and the API strip is testing the tap water (it is showing very faintly pink on the end nitrate pad, even if the picture didn't pick it up that well). Second pic was with a brand-new API test kit, same water (pond on the left, tap on the right; I did both tests one after the other, from the same water samples.)

20190824_111003.jpg 20190824_121545 (1).jpg
You may want to get the RO filter just for your own drinking purposes if it's coming out of the tap that high. Nitrate can affect health.
 
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