Looking for a good RO/DI system

Hey guys,

I'm new to this whole needing/using an RO/DI system. My GH/KH is around 20 with a pH of about 8.2+ most days. (it does fluctuate +/- about .2). I would like to drop my GH/KH down to about 10 or so, I'm OK with filling my tank with RO/DI I can add some minerals as well I'm not worried about that. I would like to use the RO/DI as my primary water source just to reduce the excessive amounts of minerals. I know as my hardness comes down so will my pH (though I want to maintain a stable pH ultimately). I am thinking about 50% RO/DI and 50% tap water. in theory that should put things right where I need them.

Now my question: What are some of the best systems to get that can be easily removed from a faucet and under about 100 bucks. I found one on Amazon for about 60 or 70 bucks if I add the DI filter. My concern is my tap water is insanely hard, I would prefer not to be replacing the filters every water change. Any help is appreciated!
~Inari

Amazon find:
https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

 

Honestly any system that you buy yourself will be less economical than just buying the water from someone else who has a big operation.

I do have an RO system but I use it for drinking water. It makes about 5 gallons at a time so is always ready for drinking. But making enough water for doing 50% water changes requires a large holding tank system. You are not going to get that for $100. Just the holding tank will be more than that.

Another option you have is to use the acid method to remove the KH and lower the pH. This is the only economical way to reduce KH and pH down. It requires use of concentrated acid and proper safety equipment.

Using the hydrochloric acid to lower alkalinty | Advanced Freshwater Aquarium Topics Forum | 483564

The acid treatment only removes the KH. To lower the GH you would use a water softening resin pillow in the holding tank. This will lower the GH.


BUT your best option is to fall in love with beautiful hard water fish! I mean why fight nature. Just go with it.

 

A $100 ro/di system isn't going to remove much of anything from a water source. Hot garbage.
I have an entry level 3 stage system with a 1.5 gallon holding tank. It was around $250. It takes about 2 days to completely fill my 100g tank, and typical 30-50% changes take around 6 hours. I see a smaller or much cheaper unit taking forever and not giving you quite the desired results, even with a small tank.

 

I produce 160ltr a week and after the initial lay out you'll find you'll have more control over your water, adding just a small amount of minerals will ensure good stable water without messing about to alter with other chemicals
Youll need to find out what your water pressure is, if its under 60psi your system won't work at peak, if it dose mean you need an external pump it will cost 60$ is. My storage containers are 15ltr each cost £2. Each
This is the system I use ( picture) with salty be gh+ but you may need gh/kh+
I had to have an inline pump taking my pressure to 140psi so opted for the 150gpd uni, I also doubled up on my membrane which give me an output of 15ltrs every 12 minutes
My filters get changed when I find the tds go up to 10, the membrane every 3 years di resin i do with the filter change, first two filters are cheap enough in the uk
Like you my water is bad and I need the system for my shrimp, its so easy and manageable
Your tds will come out zero for a long time before it slowly creates up, your ph will come out neutral which is ph7

 

It really depends what you need it for honestly. If you have a larger tank that you need to produce a considerable amount of gallons weekly/biweekly, then economical is not the way. If you have like a 10g tank that you really just need something to cut down on the waterstains, then you might want to look into a simple RO unit. They aren't perfect, and I wouldn't call them a long term solution, but they are good for producing small amounts if you have the time (or no option for a permanent solution).

In my experience, I have an SR Aquaristik 3-Stage RO unit. It does not have the DI function, with my water about 6GH and 6KH I get down to about 8-13 ppm after filtering. Its rated for 50g a day, but I would say its closer to 40g/Day. I have a 30g saltwater tank I like to do 50% water changes on weekly, and it does the job. It takes planning and a carboy or two of water storage to do it when I have time, but it works. I got it for 50$ at a fish store in Saginaw, yes Saginaw, Michigan (as I see your location is parma, mi)

A word of advice, if you are in the hobby for a long time, have a place you live/will be living in for a while, just buy a good unit. These little cheap guys work and can get you through in a pinch, but aren't ideal. They are best for those who have a smaller tank that doesn't need a lot of maintenance. If you can, just get a nice mounting RO/DI and storage system and it'll save you time and frustration.

 

So what is everyone defining as 'larger' tanks? I have a 55 US gallon tank.

 

So what is everyone defining as 'larger' tanks? I have a 55 US gallon tank.

55+ is what i consiser larger. Even 40 breeders.

 

It really depends what you need it for honestly. If you have a larger tank that you need to produce a considerable amount of gallons weekly/biweekly, then economical is not the way. If you have like a 10g tank that you really just need something to cut down on the waterstains, then you might want to look into a simple RO unit. They aren't perfect, and I wouldn't call them a long term solution, but they are good for producing small amounts if you have the time (or no option for a permanent solution).

In my experience, I have an SR Aquaristik 3-Stage RO unit. It does not have the DI function, with my water about 6GH and 6KH I get down to about 8-13 ppm after filtering. Its rated for 50g a day, but I would say its closer to 40g/Day. I have a 30g saltwater tank I like to do 50% water changes on weekly, and it does the job. It takes planning and a carboy or two of water storage to do it when I have time, but it works. I got it for 50$ at a fish store in Saginaw, yes Saginaw, Michigan (as I see your location is parma, mi)

A word of advice, if you are in the hobby for a long time, have a place you live/will be living in for a while, just buy a good unit. These little cheap guys work and can get you through in a pinch, but aren't ideal. They are best for those who have a smaller tank that doesn't need a lot of maintenance. If you can, just get a nice mounting RO/DI and storage system and it'll save you time and frustration.

Hey Zach,

How big is your tank? I am running a 55 gallon, Would this system work well for that? I don't have much experience with RO systems. I may look into that system as well just see cost and reviews. (I appreciate you looking at my location )

 

I have a 32.5 Fluval Flex Marine and its on the slow side for me. Easy to setup, just the fact I that I have to run it for a whole afternoon to get 5-10 gallons kinda sucks.

The only way I see this unit being viable for a larger amount of water would be with an automated shut off valve at the water inlet when your reservoir gets full, and keeping a 50g+ on hand at all times.

Personally if I had a permanent location I would setup a 200g per day RO/DI system, even for my small tank.

I would do this for two reasons mainly:
1) It would future proof anything so if I wanted a larger tank, it would be feasible to do with a 200g per day unit.
2) In the event of a catastrophe, but not wanting to throw off tank chemistry, you could have more water on demand.

Keep in mind- this is speaking of saltwater, I do do a lot with freshwater too, but I don't use any RO water for that. Also, 200g per day is rough estimate. 100g-250g per day would be good.

 

So these are some great-looking units over all guys gives me a lot to think about. My biggest concern is my GH/KH is around 20 for both that's a lot of minerals in the water. I was wondering as well how long these units would last before I would have to consider media and filter changes. I doubt anyone has anything quite that high, but if you know your tap that would be helpful for the units as well.

Thanks!

 

RO units efficiency is like 10%. That means for every gallon you make, like 5-10 gallons is used.

Seriously, you are meant to have hard water fish !! Just go with it. They are beautiful and call your name.

All kinds of endangered Cichlids would love your water. Do it for the fish that man!!

 

So these are some great-looking units over all guys gives me a lot to think about. My biggest concern is my GH/KH is around 20 for both that's a lot of minerals in the water. I was wondering as well how long these units would last before I would have to consider media and filter changes. I doubt anyone has anything quite that high, but if you know your tap that would be helpful for the units as well.

Thanks!

You can get a good bit of use out of a membrane. 2 minutes of flushing before making RO water, and 2 minutes of flushing for every hour of run time will help keep the buildup from happening quickly.

 

RO units efficiency is like 10%. That means for every gallon you make, like 5-10 gallons is used.

Seriously, you are meant to have hard water fish !! Just go with it. They are beautiful and call your name.

All kinds of endangered Cichlids would love your water. Do it for the fish that man!!

I have considered Cichlids, and they are beautiful, but I don't think they are the best options for me. Especially since they can be very territorial as well. I have always wanted to have a community tank with angles...otherwise, I would probably do a tank of Cichlids.

 

RO units efficiency is like 10%. That means for every gallon you make, like 5-10 gallons is used.

If you buy junk, yes. Usual ratio of RO to wastewater is 1:1 - 1:1.5 these days.

I have always wanted to have a community tank with angles...otherwise, I would probably do a tank of Cichlids.

Angels are cichlids.

 

If you buy junk, yes. Usual ratio of RO to wastewater is 1:1 - 1:1.5 these days.


Angels are cichlids.

Yes but when I think of Cichlids I think of African Cichlids.

 

So I guess here is my ultimate question:
I don't have an easy place to set up an RO system and I would likely have to run it for several hours to ensure I had enough water for a water change (And to have some on hand in case of an emergency change)

I would like Angels, Boseman, Cories, and BN plecos, my largest concern is the armored and scaleless fish like the Pleco and Cories. Would they do OK with a planted high pH and Hardness? I do not plan to use anything like pH down (as it doesn't do except make you waste money and irritate you to no end). I know my water would be very stable when it comes to pH and other fluctuation with 20 GH/KH. What are everyone's thoughts on this option?

 

So I guess here is my ultimate question:
I don't have an easy place to set up an RO system and I would likely have to run it for several hours to ensure I had enough water for a water change (And to have some on hand in case of an emergency change)

I would like Angels, Boseman, Cories, and BN plecos, my largest concern is the armored and scaleless fish like the Pleco and Cories. Would they do OK with a planted high pH and Hardness? I do not plan to use anything like pH down (as it doesn't do except make you waste money and irritate you to no end). I know my water would be very stable when it comes to pH and other fluctuation with 20 GH/KH. What are everyone's thoughts on this option?

So what exactly are you GH and KH numbers independent of each other?