Liquid co2 and fertilizers

Just coming off the cusp of a very rough patch with my 10 gallon fresh water tank. Fish and snails were sick, algae was everywhere water was a mess it was a real disaster although my parameters were never anything but perfect...none the less there were casualties both fish and plant, it was really touch and go for a while but all is FINALLY well and under control. I was desperately needing to spruce up the tank to get it back to looking decent and I found a local non chain pet store to purchase some new plants from and now I’m needing some assistance choosing the best way to keep said plants healthy (Anubias and valasnaria)

The lovely clerk at the store told me liquid co2 would be the best as well as well as some liquid fertilizer as neither are planted in substrate (I have the valasnaria floating with the roots exposed and the anubias it attached to a rock with some fishing line)

API co2 booster and apI leaf zone were recommended and I have them in my amazon cart and I’m ready to place them order but I’m hoping someone on here can give me a run down of exactly how to use it and the do’s and donts of the stuff


Another thing...I could have sworn I read somewhere that dosing a tank with those kinds of things are pointless if your also running a filter that has a carbon filter cartridge?

If I dose my tank will my filter just take it out?

And also I heard about that co2 will kill any algae in the tank I have snails that rely on the algae along with the carrots and zucchinI I give and I’m willing to also add in to algae wafers but I don’t want to be adding unnecessary food if the algae in the tank will be fine.

What’s a girl to do?

 

My understanding is: that activated carbon will filter out some of the fertilizer in the water column. And CO2 May allow plants to outcompete algae for available nutrients however I don’t think it out and out kills the algae. Have used CO2 and Excel (liquid CO2ish) and snails seemed to do ok.

 

Few things.

I have never used the API co2 supplement, but, its not a replacement for co2 anyway. Plants respire and co2 is what they take up, actual co2.... that's not to say that depending on who you talk to it doesn't have benefits... as I said I don't use api's I rather use seachem excel instead if I am using it at all.... I have seen benefits and improvements in some circumstances but not all.

Second, vals generally respond quite poorly to any liquid co2 booster type additives. But if they are healthy to start they can adjust. They also will need to be planted in substrate even regular gravel.

Next, yes if you have a carbon cartridge in your filter it's will remove ferts.... I have not used carbon in probably 15 years unless I'm removing meds or something. I use only bio and mechanical filtration media. Tons and tons of options, I generally just pull carbon and use filter sponge media or sintered glass bioballs in place of the carbon. But remember not to pull all your media (carbon or not) at one time as you'll upset your nitrogen cycle. Change out media a little at a time.

 

I'd ditch the API CO2 booster and API leafzone.

Go for ThriveC by NilocG, it's much better and contains all necessary nutrients. It also lasts a long time.

Activated carbon will absorb your fertilizers. I'd remove it.

Your val needs to be planted in substrate. It likes sand or very fine gravel. Val will melt if it just left floating.

 

You don't need a magic potion in a bottle but you do need to understand why your tank was a disaster so that you do not simply repeat what you have done previously

 

You don't need a magic potion in a bottle but you do need to understand why your tank was a disaster so that you do not simply repeat what you have done previously

My fish were flashing and spending a lot of time at the surface of the water gasping for air. I did some research ruled out ich and concluded on flukes so I pulled my carbon filter ordered some prazipro and dosed the tank and everything got worse first while waiting for the meds to be delivered one of my guppies developed a distended swollen belly and died shortly after adding the meds to the tank. Then all the other fish stopped eating and spent all their time at the surface gasping. It was clear the meds were making things worse so I started doing 50% water changes for a week and now all my surviving fish are miraculously perfectly fine, some still flash but not as bad as before. I also lost plants in the process, I’m not sure if it was less than ideal lighting (I have upgraded since) or because of the meds but my amazon sword and valasnaria basically just decomposed out of nowhere both were planted in substrate at the time. Like the amazon sword was still all together and standing but the second I touched it... it literally shredded apart into mush and the valasnaria was just losing pieces left and right.

Ph, ammonia, nitrites and nitrates we’re consistently spot on the entire time and I was testing almost daily so I know there was so issues there


The cause of this mess is still a mystery to me as the original issue is partially still going on but I’m very hesitant to treat further considering every one is doing so well now. I have a feeling that what ever caused the illness was introduced to the tank by me not cleaning the original plants well enough (also had some ramshorn snails hitchhike in) so I take full responsibility for this mess, I just don’t think I’ll ever know what exactly it was that I introduced to the tank
.

 

Thanks for the explanation. Unfortunately, I don't know enough to be able to help you in this case but it sounds as though you have been unlucky to have this problem. I hope you can overcome it going forward.

 

Few things.

I have never used the API co2 supplement, but, its not a replacement for co2 anyway. Plants respire and co2 is what they take up, actual co2.... that's not to say that depending on who you talk to it doesn't have benefits... as I said I don't use api's I rather use seachem excel instead if I am using it at all.... I have seen benefits and improvements in some circumstances but not all.

Second, vals generally respond quite poorly to any liquid co2 booster type additives. But if they are healthy to start they can adjust. They also will need to be planted in substrate even regular gravel.

Next, yes if you have a carbon cartridge in your filter it's will remove ferts.... I have not used carbon in probably 15 years unless I'm removing meds or something. I use only bio and mechanical filtration media. Tons and tons of options, I generally just pull carbon and use filter sponge media or sintered glass bioballs in place of the carbon. But remember not to pull all your media (carbon or not) at one time as you'll upset your nitrogen cycle. Change out media a little at a time.

So is it possible to get more co2 to the plants with out investing in one of those contraptions? ( financially and space wise not an option at the moment)

And I have no problem switching up my filtration I’m not a fan of the carbon filters (too much plastic waste involved) but they work and keep my water crystal clear so I haven’t switched yet plus when I removed it to dose the tank when my fish were sick algae became a big issue so I'm a little apprehensive about that.

I have a penguin 75 bio wheel filter so if you have any recommendations for how I can make some switches it would be greatly appreciated

I’ve also been told that the fish will fertilize the plants for me... is this true?
I have 2 guppies, 2 balloon mollies, 1 betta and 8 snails is that enough to fertilize the plants? (Like 8 segments of the valasnaria and one rather large anubias that’s attached to a rock)
Do I need more fish? I don’t want to over stock the tank but if starting a planted tank means It can support more fish I can happily get some more only reason I haven’t yet is because I was worried that adding more would stress the ones I already have

 

Yes and no.... more co2 to the plants without actual co2 injection.... no, but a myriad of tank setup factors are going to play into how much is actually available. Good circulation of the tank water, clear of surface films and prevention of dead spots in the tank will go a long way. Especially considering you have exceptionally low maintenance plants I see no need at all for co2 injection.

Basically good housekeeping in your tank and not expecting the plants to do the dirty work is going to be your best ally.

Second yes with your stocking of fish and plants you in all reality probably don't need a fertilizer regimen. What I imagine caused your algae issues was too much light or too high intensity of light. All algae issues are caused by an imbalance in the tank, could be nutrients, lighting or co2. Adding other factors to the mix (in your case nutrients and co2) is likely unnecessary and I would first look at the intensity of your lights and next and the duration that they're on.

If they are on more than 8 hours a day put them on an appliance timer and set it for 4-5 hours when you are most actively viewing the tank. Or split your duration to 2, 4 hour windows with a minimum 3 hour break between. Timers are cheap lol same ones people use for Christmas lights or vacations lamp lights while they are away are completely fine and very reliable. I prefer them because if power goes out they keep the same exact schedule just behind by the length of time power was out.

 

Yes and no.... more co2 to the plants without actual co2 injection.... no, but a myriad of tank setup factors are going to play into how much is actually available. Good circulation of the tank water, clear of surface films and prevention of dead spots in the tank will go a long way. Especially considering you have exceptionally low maintenance plants I see no need at all for co2 injection.

Basically good housekeeping in your tank and not expecting the plants to do the dirty work is going to be your best ally.

Second yes with your stocking of fish and plants you in all reality probably don't need a fertilizer regimen. What I imagine caused your algae issues was too much light or too high intensity of light. All algae issues are caused by an imbalance in the tank, could be nutrients, lighting or co2. Adding other factors to the mix (in your case nutrients and co2) is likely unnecessary and I would first look at the intensity of your lights and next and the duration that they're on.

If they are on more than 8 hours a day put them on an appliance timer and set it for 4-5 hours when you are most actively viewing the tank. Or split your duration to 2, 4 hour windows with a minimum 3 hour break between. Timers are cheap lol same ones people use for Christmas lights or vacations lamp lights while they are away are completely fine and very reliable. I prefer them because if power goes out they keep the same exact schedule just behind by the length of time power was out.

Okay I’m going to look into these light timers.

So is it fair to say having a planted tank and a good maintenance routine adding more fish to give the plant what the need would be okay as long as it’s not too over stocked and it’s fish aren’t too big for the tank?

Right now Test the parameters weekly and do 30%-40% water changes bI weekly and even with that my nitrates only ever get to like 10ppm by the second week maybe once every like 10 water changes will it get closer to 20ppm and I’m pretty sure that has to do with sometimes my betta goes through a phase where he’s picky about food so he won’t eat as much and some exes food sinks to the bottom and I don’t bother removing it because Either the snails will get it and even if they don’t I know it’s not going to throw off my level to a dangerous level by the time I do my scheduled water change



Also what about root tabs? I saw those coming up when I was searching for the liquid... are they any good?

 

Sounds like you have a pretty good balance with the stocking you have now. If you have nitrates present that base is covered.

Root tabs won't hurt anything I prefer nicolg gelcap tabs myself and I use thrive as a general water column fert in low tech tanks. I use a full eI routine in other setups but for what you have thrive is more than enough. Dose twice a week at least 24 hours after a water change.

I think your tank holds a good balance of stock as it stands with your maintenance routine. If there's any nitrates then they aren't deprived. I like root tabs and and water column ferts. I generally use nicolg ferts.... both tabs and liquid. I add tabs every so often depending on the tank but usually no sooner than about 6 weeks, if add a tab near your vals or if planted as a group one on each side and then dose thrive twice weekly 24 hours after your water change.

 

Few things.

I have never used the API co2 supplement, but, its not a replacement for co2 anyway. Plants respire and co2 is what they take up, actual co2.... that's not to say that depending on who you talk to it doesn't have benefits... as I said I don't use api's I rather use seachem excel instead if I am using it at all.... I have seen benefits and improvements in some circumstances but not all.

Second, vals generally respond quite poorly to any liquid co2 booster type additives. But if they are healthy to start they can adjust. They also will need to be planted in substrate even regular gravel.

Next, yes if you have a carbon cartridge in your filter it's will remove ferts.... I have not used carbon in probably 15 years unless I'm removing meds or something. I use only bio and mechanical filtration media. Tons and tons of options, I generally just pull carbon and use filter sponge media or sintered glass bioballs in place of the carbon. But remember not to pull all your media (carbon or not) at one time as you'll upset your nitrogen cycle. Change out media a little at a time.

This explain why my bacteria colony died. I changed my medium foam media and add 5 Neon Tetra, 3 Rosen Tetra and 5 Amano shrimps which all are doing great ... yeees I know what I did ... put away the knife pls. Now my nitrite levels are darn high but still 0 of nitrate, have healthy anubias nana, reinikiI pink and creeping moss. All this after 5 weeks of a fully cycled tank with no fish. I change water weekly and the levels still high.