Levels for new tank

gilly2402

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hI guys a quick question ... my tank has been running for two weeks now and I'm cycling it with zebra danios ive tested my levels and these are the results NITRITE=1.0 AMONIA = 1.0 PH 7=7.6 NITRATE = 5.0 IS THIS OK OR SHOULD I BE DOING MORE? I DO A 10% WATER CHANGE EVERY 2 DAYS LIKE IVE BEEN LED TO BELIEVE WHEN CYCLING MY TANK WITH FISH PLEASE REPLY
 

Butterfly

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You need to get the ammonia down below 1, that is toxic level for your danios. Larger water changes will help.good job with the testing. Keep it up.
Carol
 
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gilly2402

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Butterfly said:
You need to get the ammonia down below 1, that is toxic level for your danios. Larger water changes will help.good job with the testing. Keep it up.
Carol
thanks for the info carol most appreciated will do a 30% change tommorrow and will post new lrvrls on so check them out plz
 

Butterfly

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Cool! Wait at least several hours after water changes to test again in order to get an accurate reading. I usually wait until the next day. Keep us posted
Carol
 
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gilly2402

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Butterfly said:
Cool! Wait at least several hours after water changes to test again in order to get an accurate reading. I usually wait until the next day. Keep us posted
Carol
got new levels here they are  ammonia=0.50 ph=7.5 nitrate =10.0 nitrite =2.0 any advice appreciated.... could u please give me a guide on what levels should be at so I got something to work towards many thanks
 

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The nitrite level is too high for your fish. Bump your water change up to 50%. It needs to be below 1.0 on the nitrites. Keep up the good work!
 
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gilly2402

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Gunnie said:
The nitrite level is too high for your fish.  Bump your water change up to 50%.  It needs to be below 1.0 on the nitrites.  Keep up the good work!   
thanks for info gunnie have just completed 50% water change will do re test tommorrow when I get home from work could u tell me wat the ideal levels are for all to help me work towards a decent balance many thanks
 

sgould

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Ultimately, you want the ammonia and nitrite both to be 0. The time it takes for that to happen varies...could be a few more weeks, could be faster. In the meantime, you want to keep the levels of both ammonia and nitrite below 1 by performing partial water changes as necessary until your cycle is complete. Depending on who is speaking, nitrate should be kept below either 20 or 40. My understanding of the pH is that for most species, it is not necessary to alter the pH as the fish will adapt to your water.

Sean
 
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gilly2402

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sgould said:
Ultimately, you want the ammonia and nitrite both to be 0.  The time it takes for that to happen varies...could be a few more weeks, could be faster.  In the meantime, you want to keep the levels of both ammonia and nitrite below 1 by performing partial water changes as necessary until your cycle is complete.  Depending on who is speaking, nitrate should be kept below either 20 or 40.  My understanding of the pH is that for most species, it is not necessary to alter the pH as the fish will adapt to your water.

Sean
thanks for help sean its most welcome I'm only a newbie at this game and doing my best so any other advice would be great
 

susitna-flower

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HI gilly, first let me say you are doing an awesome job. The hardest part is over, you are asking for info., and things are progressing nicely. One addition to the advice given so far, is that even when your ammonia and nitrite are 0, your tank is ALWAYS changing. For that reason you have to continue testing at least weekly. I do a 50% water change any time my nitrate gets above 10. The reason I do this is that although nitrates are not as "fatal" as ammonia or nitrite, they DO affect the health of your fish. Their natural immunities are lowered and they are susceptible to disease.
This is the # 1 reason to not over crowd your tank, it will be easier to keep the nitrates down. If your tank is planted with real plants they utilize some of the nitrate. The only other way to remove it is through water changes. Keep up the good work.

Fish in the Frozen North 8)
 
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susitna-flower said:
  HI gilly, first let me say you are doing an awesome job.   The hardest part is over, you are asking for info., and things are progressing nicely.  One addition to the advice given so far, is that even when your ammonia and nitrite are 0, your tank is ALWAYS changing.  For that reason you have to continue testing at least weekly.  I do a 50% water change any time my nitrate gets above 10.  The reason I do this is that although nitrates are not as "fatal" as ammonia or nitrite, they DO affect the health of your fish.   Their natural immunities are lowered and they are susceptible to disease. 
   This is the # 1 reason to not over crowd your tank, it will be easier to keep the nitrates down.  If your tank is planted with real plants they utilize some of the nitrate.  The only other way  to remove it is through water changes.      Keep up the good work.
thanks for the advice and encouragement susitna-flower it is nice to see a site where fellow fish keepers are so friendly even if u are making mistakes, if u have any advice on other things please let me know there is one question I would like to know which is ... what are the signs that tell you your tank is fully cycled? ps doing 10% water change today and testing tommorrow will post results for advice many thanks ....gilly

Fish in the Frozen North  8)
 

susitna-flower

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Your tank is cycled when the ammonia is 0, the nitrite is 0 and nitrates go up usually you will see 5 or above for them. The problem from there is that any new addition of fish, or disturbance of the nitrogen cycle bacteria (like cleaning your filters, or using medications), can cause a 'minI cycle' where the ammonia and nitrites go up again! This is why I said you have to continue testing, even with well established tanks. If it goes into a minI cycle, start your 50% water changes again until it settles back with 0 ammonia and nitrites.

Fish in the Frozen North -2F this morning!
 

Gargoyle

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I am presently cycling a 10 gallon with fish... I did this before I realized there is a better way. My next tank I would like to cycle with a cube of frozen fish instead of the live fish.. I think it would be easier since no fish means no water changes and a faster cycle.

Anyway this is from the last 4 weeks of the 10 gallon being tested / cycled with fish and a product called Cycle...

Week 1
PH 7.6
Ammonia .25
Nitrite .0
Nitrate 5.0

Week 2
PH 7.6
Ammonia .50
Nitrite .50
Nitrate 15

Week 3
PH 7.6
Ammonia .25
Nitrite 5.0
Nitrate 10

Week 4
PH 7.6
Ammonia .0
Nitrite .5
Nitrate 10

It still isn't finished but you get the idea of how the numbers can fluctuate. ;D Hope this helps some..
 
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gilly2402

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thanks to all who have given me advice it really helps, here are results for test yesterday amm=0.25 ph=7.6 nitrite=2.0 nitrate=40.0 any ideas please post
thanks gilly
 

susitna-flower

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Your nitrites are critical!!! You should do a 50% water change. It is great your nitrates are coming up, the cycle is in progress, but 40 on nitrates are to high also, I always do a water change if nitrates get up as high as 20. My goal for fish health is to keep the nitrates 10 or below. Lots less stress on the fish.

Fish in the Frozen North 8)
 
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gilly2402

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susitna-flower said:
Your nitrites are critical!!! You should do a 50% water change. It is great your nitrates are coming up, the cycle is in progress, but 40 on nitrates are to high also, I always do a water change if nitrates get up as high as 20. My goal for fish health is to keep the nitrates 10 or below. Lots less stress on the fish.

Fish in the Frozen North 8)
I'm on to it right away thanks a lot susitna-flower

gilly2402 said:
susitna-flower said:
Your nitrites are critical!!! You should do a 50% water change. It is great your nitrates are coming up, the cycle is in progress, but 40 on nitrates are to high also, I always do a water change if nitrates get up as high as 20. My goal for fish health is to keep the nitrates 10 or below. Lots less stress on the fish.

Fish in the Frozen North 8)
I'm on to it right away thanks a lot susitna-flower
done water change will post results of tests on site tommorrow evening don't know what time that will be in usa but here around 7pm many thanks
could you also answer the question I have posted about L.E.D lights I have had no replies as yet so don't know much about them its down a few questions in general discussion don't know how to give you links

hI guys did 50% water change yesterday as ordered lol here are the test results for today amm=0.25 ph=7.6 doesn't seem to change much... nitrite= 1.0 nitrate=10 any suggestions please advise many thanks gilly
 

susitna-flower

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I would continue doing 50% changes every day that the ammonia or nitrite get up over where they are today. Depending on how much you feed, or how many fish you have in the tank it might be every day. Look at tan.b 's profile and look at her posts. She was having the same problem, it took several weeks, but eventually her tank was fully cycled, and it is fine now. This is all a learning process for everyone. I am happy your levels came down with the change. Keep up the good work.

Fish in the Frozen North 8)
 
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gilly2402

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lost one of my danios today the rest are fine and lively so don't think it was anything ive done lvls are ok just a bit strange that's all no signs of attack or disease so really puzzled could just have been one of thouse things but still very sad will do test later today when home from work

up to date test and I may have a problem amm=0 ph=6.4? nitrite =1 nitrate= 10 my ph has dropped from 7.6 which is wat I was averaging to 6.4 maybe this the reason I lost a danio I don't know help please
 

susitna-flower

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HI gilly, sorry about your danios. Has the drop in PH just showed up since you changed test equipment? Could it be that it didn't change, just shows different on different test kits?
Have you changed anything else about how you are taking care of your tank....Did you add driftwood? Or use bottled water in a change? There are several things that cause a drop or rise in PH, but it is usually associated with some action taken in the tank. Have you added CO2? Do you have any metal in your tank? The source of water for your tank, what does it test for PH before going in your tank?

As for whether it could have caused the death, look up the specifications for danios, and if 6.4 is ok for them, then it probably wasn't it. Fish can tolerate PH changes fairly well if it takes place over a number of hours. I hope you can figure this out.

Fish in the Frozen North 8)
 
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gilly2402

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thanks for info april, I haven't done anything different to wat I normally do,nothing has been added eg driftwood,plants or ornaments etc I'm cleaning tank filter once a week , glass every couple of days and water changes every 2-3 days or when needed and using same test kit ive always done .......oh wait a minute I brought a different brand of de-chlorinator from pet shop in my village which is a blue colour maybe this was key I just can't understand it but I suppose its all part of the learning curve.I read the article on old tank syndrome very useful information thanks for help
 

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