LED Day and Night Lighting

If I place the outflow correctly it would not produce a buildup inside as it would be to the front edge. The inner cave is also with multiple access points both top, sides and front as you can see. I estimate about a 1 gallon to 1.5 g space under/inside and thus with the top opening most C02 would escape if trapped inside of the cave. The Chihiros Doctor unit also widly helps with better O2. I ran an experiment with a 5bps Co2 during the evening all night and no fish gasping or hurt. Without the CD I would not attempt this experiment or make sure you got a good diffused air input. Since having the CD unit I run no airstones at all for this tank.

 

Dadio and Angelbear, thank you for the interesting topic, I've been following silently but wanted to chime in on this. I am interested in what you find because I recently added an apex controller to my system and I now have the ability to program light and lunar cycles to mimic any area on earth, this can also be taken even one step further because the apex can also control the temps to match the light cycles. I would need to look into different lighting to really accomplish this as the finnex planted+, to my knowledge, isn't dimmable so no way for me to bring up the light slowly. With the correct lighting fixture even the spectrums can be programmed.

 

Dadio and Angelbear, thank you for the interesting topic, I've been following silently but wanted to chime in on this. I am interested in what you find because I recently added an apex controller to my system and I now have the ability to program light and lunar cycles to mimic any area on earth, this can also be taken even one step further because the apex can also control the temps to match the light cycles. I would need to look into different lighting to really accomplish this as the finnex planted+, to my knowledge, isn't dimmable so no way for me to bring up the light slowly. With the correct lighting fixture even the spectrums can be programmed.

it is always nice to see others chime in. It helps us with thoughts and ideas. My study will take some time to complete as I am starting with a stress basis to see the true effects on a small, and then larger ecosystem.

 

Dadio and @, thank you for the interesting topic, I've been following silently but wanted to chime in on this. I am interested in what you find because I recently added an apex controller to my system and I now have the ability to program light and lunar cycles to mimic any area on earth, this can also be taken even one step further because the apex can also control the temps to match the light cycles. I would need to look into different lighting to really accomplish this as the finnex planted+, to my knowledge, isn't dimmable so no way for me to bring up the light slowly. With the correct lighting fixture even the spectrums can be programmed.

Yes, it's nice to see that others also are questioning or wanting to explore the true biorhythms. I have the same issue with the Current unit as it too is not dimmable. I overcome this, or minimized the hard switch affect by having the lunar led setup running all the time which does no harm other then adding beneficial light. This way when the daylight mode turns off the stress impact or shock is minimized where I see no scattering or skittish behaviors as I did before doing this..

Best example of this is this morning. I was up before the switch and monitoried via my netcam. The differnet species were close together and as the lights came on they casually split apart and began their explorations. I also saw my 2 goby come out and rest side-by-side as if they were about to take breakfast together. These interactions before were nil to none. So I am seeing more and more a more serene interaction in this bio-system. To be able to program this type of setup to reproduce the same outside enviroment I believe provides and extra benefit to the living environment as I am 100% sure this affects both instinct of the species and here's why...

My koi 2 days ago were a little hyper in their winter tank and lower in the water which I have seen when they are outside in their pond. Outside a storm was happening and in their real environment this would be a normal activity during any storm. I flipped the current led strip to mimic a cloudy overcast. Then I added a lighting strike mode and they very well reacted, not in a stressful way, but instinctively. They can sense pressure changes just as we do, so the theory behind this is that we are matching a more natural environment which has been my findings so far. My goal is not a picture perfection tuned to precision, but as natural as possible with yes, a pristine slice if I may say to see into their world that I created for them. True, I've done this using some fancy techniques to keep it a protective environment as well. With the apex unit you have the absolute control to match the environment, or as I, the exact environment of their true habitat (not 100% as the region of earth they are in and you are in has different barometric levels of course).

IMO, when we have just light without any variations we can yes have that beautiful lush growth of plants, but this is artificially kept using ferts, co2 and more. This is great, but as time passes since I did my tank this way and with the addition of the hanging rocks I in fact created varying wave lengths of light, shadows and current which imo is giving me more than I ever could have expected in regards to their environment. All my tanks are now following the same on/off with lunar modes which I just flipped over 2 days ago. My O2A is the more high-tech, but the others follow the same light timing. Lunar for my koi tank is pure actinic as with my betta and fancy goldfish tank. The blue light mode is important I believe to be actinic and not just any blue. My O2A also has one other mode and that's the addition of the 10,000K Lunar white which I adjust manually to match the moon phase. Would love this to be auto though.

 

Here is a screenshot of the apex setup, I guess my next project will be some DIY lighting that I can control with dimming as well as controlling spectrums (not part of the screenshot, it is in a different table and needs a different box added to the apex system). This apex is not inexpensive and I didn't really want to put in the work to build a controller with arduino, but I am very glad I spent the $$$, it opens up a whole bunch of options for automating things like the lighting. I will probably be a little late on having anything significant to add to the two posts as it will take me a couple months to get the funds to start building the lighting the way I want it. Given that I am heavily planted and need/want to stay in the light range that I currently use, I also want to keep in the 660nm range for my reds and the 6500-6700K with around 100 par, and Looking at both actinic 420nm and 460nm blue so I could choose one or the other or even both, If I can find a source for the 420nm blues, so far Ive only been able to locate 450nm. Anyway, thanks for the thread and your hard work, very interested to see what you find!!!

 

Here is a screenshot of the apex setup, I guess my next project will be some DIY lighting that I can control with dimming as well as controlling spectrums (not part of the screenshot, it is in a different table and needs a different box added to the apex system). This apex is not inexpensive and I didn't really want to put in the work to build a controller with arduino, but I am very glad I spent the $$$, it opens up a whole bunch of options for automating things like the lighting. I will probably be a little late on having anything significant to add to the two posts as it will take me a couple months to get the funds to start building the lighting the way I want it. Given that I am heavily planted and need/want to stay in the light range that I currently use, I also want to keep in the 660nm range for my reds and the 6500-6700K with around 100 par, and Looking at both actinic 420nm and 460nm blue so I could choose one or the other or even both, If I can find a source for the 420nm blues, so far Ive only been able to locate 450nm. Anyway, thanks for the thread and your hard work, very interested to see what you find!!!

 

Thank you, I will check them out

 

March 29th, 2015

Once again I watched via the netcam as the sunrise activated the wemo switch. Everyone was at ease and slowly broke away from their groups and began exploring. Again no seen stress at all as they all seemed very at ease and natural imo.

So, big day ahead today. Will be adding a internal cave stream using an inline 260g cobalt pump which I picked up yesterday. Good thing we never throw anything away in this hobby as they always come in handy, at least for me they do as I'm always exploring or tinkering with some idea or other. Somethings always has find another use. So with a few odds and ends from some old defunct pumps I will also be using this as a Co2 reactor. As the stream is at the lower end of the tank to the left, this will in fact lay a carpet of Co2 to the lowest part of the tank for a more efficient spreading of Co2 while also adding a stream current. This will be even more beneficial for the hillstream loaches and other cohabitants. This will also draw out some of the garbage that finds its way in there as noticed through my observations over the 3 months since this project began.

This will be also the first major cleaning in 1 month believe it or not. I will also do a 50% water change even though the water has tested fine. I've been topping off for evaporation and the last change was roughly 40%. So hoping to not stress everyone too much but they are used to me tinkering with the tank so it should be minor. Water is RO filtered and has also been sitting for 24 hours. Prime will be added and followed by an injection of 30cc's of ferts for a little boost. For cleaning, time to bring out big Bertha. This is a modified mag pump which I use a tricked out toothbrush. The end of the brush has an adapted 1/4 flexible tube that as I brush out the vegetation it gets sucked up. Once the water level reaches the exchange point I'll give an excel misting to all.

Lighting observations: Plant growth is great imo and yes, even the greenie stuff we all loathe. There is always a normal level of this so I'm not going nit picky over it either as it does add a natural affect and feeds the cleanup crew as well. Next project is a custom cedar wood top cover that will have a few tricks. I will also move the lunar night mode higher to 6" above top level rather then the current 1-2". The 10000k Lunar moon will also be tricked out with a manual way of replicating the phase of the full moon cycle. The underside of the cedar is coated in aluminum foil which acts as a water barrier and provides reflective ambient lighting. I'm also going to bring the current satellite plus higher then it's placement now. Reason is in my tank the floating rockscapes are growing very well. If I find it hurts the lower growth I have another single strip from current which can be added bringing lighting to 3000K. Currently it's 2000K and I'm quite happy with the total affect and benefits it gives while being energy efficient. That's the plus side of LED; minimal heat and lower pull on the grid.




Here's my DIY Co2 Reactor/Diffuser/Wavemaker


Using spare parts and an inline pump this will be the major component behind the cavern stream. The swivelled outflow will allow me to install it under the cliff of the riverbed. The 1/4 tube (2nd photo inset top-left) is the Co2 input. First I will stuff it with cigarette filters which produces a fine mist into the intake. This will further chop up the Co2 pushing it out the cavern stream along the footing of the tank bed. This gives better absorption of Co2 in theory I believe following the current of the tank which varies being beneficial to the cohabitants and amusing for them at the same time. With the very fine dispersion and the sterilizer unit being used this breaks all down so fast that there is no impact upon the species within. Again, an even more natural flow and environment that is both functional and enjoyable. That cavern finally ends up more than just camouflage for the failed waterfall attempt.

Aaah, within every defeat there's an opportunity

 

March 31, 2015
So yesterday was a long one but finally got the cavern current working along with the DIY Co2 diffuser/turbo reactor which is working like a dream but I screwed up the lighting scheduled for 2 days.

Inhabitants were seemingly ok as I futzed with the install and corner landscape a thousand times. The inline pump is perfect for what I wanted to achieve. The fine mist into the intake gets chopped up even more and is now carpeting with the aid of the under cavern current along the right to the bottom of the tank. Got a nice colour on th e Co2 detector as well. I'm feeding about 2bps into the intake of the inline as a fine mist, nut just bubbles.

I started at sunrise again today trimming some of the growth and fine tuning the outflow of the under-current. The hillstream loaches are enjoying it which fits in a little with their natural habitat and the others frolic about it exploring the changes. Pump is rated at just over 200 gallon and I have a valve on it to adjust if necessary. Lighting is back on schedule and I zapped as much of the greenies as possible while doing a water 30% change as well. The current of the stream comes to the lower front of the tank following the rockbed and then along the right which is perfect and gentle as it dissipates. This now helps keep a gentle circulation inside of the left cavern structure keeping it cleaner and not stagnant and noticed the temp was more even throughout the tank.

The corner of the aquascape has change a little as even as cautious as I was I couldn't get it back to the original, but looks even better now imo.

 

alright, I have not forgotten this. I have been busy with grandfather but he is settled and in rehab, no more scary UPS and downs. The study has been continuing and will write up a detailed block sometime between tomorrow and Wednesday.

 

Happy to hear. We got some good news as well. But still early in the game as she has just started chemo.

My lighting has been a little off as I spent some hours tinkering again. But the new cover is installed and within less than 24 hours it seems the new distance of the lights also have an affect in a good way. The inside top cover is coated in foil so it acts by giving off reflective light thus is theory a more spread out lighting. The inside fan keeps the humidity down thus keeping the reflective capacity intact. Pics coming shortly.

 

Dusk shot of the new custom redwood top cover.

 

April 12 Updates:

The cover has been a great addition allowing me to raise the lights now 4" above the water line bringing the average lighting depth to 19" at the deepest part of the tank. The night mode runs 24hrs adding more blue spectrum. Plant growth is nice even after an accident with too much excel to control a little hair algae growth which I attribute to the closeness of the lights on the top of the aquascape. As the floating islands are closer to the top, the java moss has had a attendance to this type of growth which in nature would be normal. The moss in fact is working very well as part of the bio filtration.

I manually keep most of it under control which is not anything major but overdosed the excel method and burned a little of the moss tops but has regained quite quickly even with this mishap. We learn from our mistakes so next time if using this method when spraying the bared vegetation when doing a water change one must get the replacement water back in quickly or the risk of burning happens.

Candy cane tetras have been at the nookie too which tells me the environment is good. Same with my GDR (Golden Dwarf Ram) pair, while not nookie yet they are frolicking together. Threadfin rainbows are quite happy as well with the 2 males and five females and is a great pleasure for me to see that with all the tinkering I do, each step it gets even better and better. Amano shrimps seem to enjoy cleaning the arm which is kinda cool, yet tickles at the same time.

I also increased the interior fan voltage to 12V so as to increase the air flow as there was a little humidty to the far right of the tank and this corrected that as well.

 

April 14th Update:

String Algae now under control. Lighting distance made a major impact and plants are doing very good. Moved cover fan to middle of cover firing forward to front of tank. This provides better circulation now with no humidity buildup that was noticed to the far right when as the fan was first installed to the back left of my custom cover. With the 1/2 opening on the rear top of the cover the new fan placement works much better. Evaporation is minimal so far.

Lot's of frolicking about the tank which is quite wonderful to see and now every time coming to the tank the crew comes to meet me...awesome, just totally awesome. Only problem is if I sit too long watching I fall off to neverland...lol




1 things got me just a little off and that's the skimmer. Any ideas on what one migh do to creatively mask it?

 

I now have my Apex Lunar Simulation module up and running and it is really sweet. The fish seem to be responding to it, or maybe its just my imagination. The cool thing is that it simulates the phases of the moon by varying the intensity of the light. My only issue now is that I am upgrading from 75 to 125 gal, so it will be a bit before I will really be able to tell if there is any difference in my fish or plants.

 

I now have my Apex Lunar Simulation module up and running and it is really sweet. The fish seem to be responding to it, or maybe its just my imagination. The cool thing is that it simulates the phases of the moon by varying the intensity of the light. My only issue now is that I am upgrading from 75 to 125 gal, so it will be a bit before I will really be able to tell if there is any difference in my fish or plants.

Don't think it's your imagination because since I've been doing this with my O2A tank I've seen a number of things that support the idea of a more natural setup.

I manually change the intensity of the moon phase ..lol, got one up on me there that's for sure.

 

The first thing I noticed was they seemed more active in the evening time, after my main lights go off and only the lunar are on, the Khuli's and shrimp and the upside down cat are much much more active than before. I have 2 Plant LED's a Mainland Plant LED and a planted + with the moonlights. Those are very blue in color 440nm. I am not sure of the spectrum of the apex lights but they are much more white with a very slight blue tint, very much like moonlight. It gives a whole new look to the tank but the fish seem to be responding to it!

 

Happy to see what your doing for a better environment and yes, your pleasure too. I'm sure you'll notice more changes, some subtle, others more. The nightlife comes alive, shrimp are more active, even my gobies are more seen during moon light modes. IMO, gives another meaning to a nature scape.

 

April 21st

Updates: Lightening scheduled is working just fine where over the last week the morning seems to have a fair bit of, ummm fishysex happening.

This tells me that the tinkering is having a good overall impact. Hair moss is minimal and what is there is food for a few.

I also brought in some garden moss, now before any one goes off on this let me say this. If your peeling it off a garden, rock or other than I will agree it's NOT good to do this. This garden moss surrounds my waterpond and I've seen it survive in water, especially my pond. So now that I'm upgrading my pond I took some of the water logged moss and have added it to the O2A tank.

Here's how I did it.

First I did a complete rinse followed by a short dip in hydrogen peroxide. I then rinsed it again with tap water so as to yes, this time use the chemicals in the water supply to rid possible bacterial load. Then I let it sit in treated water for 24 hours. I rinsed it again and removed any dying material.

48 hours later the moss is doing very well and the shrimp and other road cleaners have been enjoying the new carpet.

This type of moss does well in a pond where I've seen it sink to the bottom of my ponds and grow well, so now lets see in a few months how well it does in an aquarium.

 

April 21st

Updates: Lighting scheduled is working just fine where over the last week the morning seems to have a fair bit of, ummm fishysex happening.

This tells me that the tinkering is having a good overall impact. Hair moss is minimal and what is there is food for a few.

I also brought in some garden moss, now before any one goes off on this let me say this. If your peeling it off a garden, rock or other than I will agree it's NOT good to do this. This garden moss surrounds my waterpond and I've seen it survive in water, especially my pond. So now that I'm upgrading my pond I took some of the water logged moss and have added it to the O2A tank.

Here's how I did it.

First I did a complete rinse followed by a short dip in hydrogen peroxide. I then rinsed it again with tap water so as to yes, this time use the chemicals in the water supply to rid possible bacterial load. Then I let it sit in treated water for 24 hours. I rinsed it again and removed any dying material.

48 hours later the moss is doing very well and the shrimp and other road cleaners have been enjoying the new carpet.

This type of moss does well in a pond where I've seen it sink to the bottom of my ponds and grow well, so now lets see in a few months how well it does in an aquarium.

View attachment 165654

 

So, 4 months later here it is. Still tinkering, but overall everything is good. The controlled lighting is showing more and more that total darkness is only good for one thing, our own needs in order to keep lush vegetation and ward of algae attacks imo.

Lighting here follows sunrise/sunset and works fine so far with no major problems. LED distance has been raised and stated in the previous posts and helped with some of the minor algae blooms. What is present is food for many and if it bothers me, then I hand pick it or do a hydrogen peroxide mist where needed.

 

Been a bit since the last update but here's my findings:

1) Actinic Blue lights should be used for saltwater tanks only or used as a diffused subdued lighting not directly to freshwater tanks.

2) The phasing has shown to be very beneficial for the the cohabitants where they are all showing nocturnal activity normal to their species.

3) Soft fading between light phases has shown to be beneficial to the cohabitants resulting in almost no stress and the sunrise shows their quite happy. No lethargic or dulled out ghostly colors, some slight color fade but no where near if they are in a non-light (ambient) environment.

4) Belcan Wemo switch works fine for basic on/off but will be replaced with the Current Dual Ramp Timer Pro shortly. But still be used for access to the webcam and control other things I want on the circuit.

So, in other words with close to 6 months studying this setup, I've proven to myself that lighting plays a very important role to the overall wellness of the tank.

 

Great info. Thanks for keeping us posted.

 

Great info. Thanks for keeping us posted.

Pleasure. The new current unit will also be interesting to see how this affects everything as well as it will fade in/fade out between modes and channels. This provides and more natural sunrise/sunset lighting. I minimized the effect of the sudden light off other on by keeping the moonlights running 24hr but still is a sudden on/off, kinda like getting a flashlight turned on/off 6 inches from our noses.

 

Ohiotank I should have bought this thing in the very beginning but on the other hand I learned a lot doing it my way. I love how it fades in and out giving a very natural effect to sunrise/sunset.

So, I have it set for 10 hrs day, 6 hrs moonlight & 6 hr darkness to tank only. Ambiant light of the whole fish room is present so it's not a total blackout which I don't want.

The cohabitants seemed even more at ease as I sat watching the tank fade on this morning. Ramp up time is 15 mins to full intensity and 20 mins ramp down to moonlight.

IMO, the current ramp timer is very well made and setup was a snap. ?So let's see how this now impacts the tank over the next few weeks.

 

Ok, so made an adjustment to follow a natural day of light starting with sunrise increasing to full intensity (high sun) for 6 hours, then a ramp down to afternoon sun being drop of 30% intensity for 4 hours and a 2 hour ramping down (30% to null) creating a natural sunset. Moon lights are ramping up in last 1 hour phase to full intensity (full moon) then slowly ramping down over 6 hours just like nature does for a 24hr cycle with 8 hour rest period of no direct light to tank. My fishroom still has an ambient low level blue hue so it's not total blackout.

 

Haven't updated in a while so here's a photo at the 6 month mark. All is beautiful, happy fish, plants and pet humans.

 

That looks awesome. How is the garden moss doing?@dadio

 

That looks awesome. How is the garden moss doing?@dadio

It does ok as long as it gets enough light. Not my favorite thing at the moment and most likely I'll remove it soon and replace it with something else. There is a browning to it, but growth over top, as if reaching up so I think for other types of setups this may be better, but fully submerged in a tank it so far is so so. When it falls in the pond it grows yet in the tank it's as said, so so.

 

Looks amazing

 

That's beautiful!

 

Thank you all for the compliments.

The only food all the tank mates get is HikarI frozen brine shrimps/spirulina and bloodworms. Nothing else. Once a week 1 ml of excel, 0.01 ml potassium once a month and the co2 runs 24hrs at 0.5 bps. The O2A tank has even surpassed my own expectations and that's not easy to do lol.

HikarI is the same mark I feed my koi and fancies. Fish are all very healthy and where at one point I was about to cull all the neons in the O2A as a few were showing signs of ntd and as suspected the possibility of a bad stock was highly not probable. Then I baked down and said I'll just let nature takes its course and just kept feeding them as they were still active and eating even if they showed signs of ntd. But now, their colors and what was faded is no where to be seen.

The O2A tank goes through a 50% water change every 2 months. Canister is reset when I notice a drop in flow. As my cover also provides airflow on the interior there is an evaporation where I top off the water every other week. As you can see, it's well established and all the family in the O2A tank are doing very well in depth of colors, vitality and health. Day temp is 79.5 F mid tank reading with lower cave stream at 74 and night temp at 77. Interior tank ambient within the enclosed cover is low 70's like a gentle breeze not directed at the water but circulating within. The airflow keeps surface temp heating up and also no condensation in the cover.

The Current controller is a real niffy tool for creating a well balanced lighting that is very close to nature and once setup up, you've got a lot less to do with turning on and off or startling the friends. I firmly believe this has added an impact to the health of the tank as well. Had a little bout with bba but that's cleared up

 

Do you still have all three tanks listed in your profile?

Do you do more frequent WC on the other two?

 

Do you still have all three tanks listed in your profile?

Do you do more frequent WC on the other two?

Yes. Including the interior pond. Chico's paradise needs a weed eater lol. Going to be rescaping both the betta and fancies tanks in the near future and then decide on what to be done with the 500g pond as it's empty at the moment. Yep. Gemini's can't sit for too long

 

Do you still have all three tanks listed in your profile?

Do you do more frequent WC on the other two?

As for water changes being more frequent, no. The 500G went through one 50% change in 6 months and never an issues was presented and my koi did very well. The filtration system is 15-1 change over per hour.

Fancies 50% every 2 months
Chico's Paradise is 50% every 2 months

Top offs for all tanks is weekly/bi-weekly as it is very dry in our region so evap is a little higher than most.

 

I'm trying to get away from all these WC. I did a 35% 4 days ago and nitrates are already up, so I've added pothos plants above my tank with roots in the water hoping this will help.

I am slightly overstocked and I probably overfeed my fish.

 

I'm trying to get away from all these WC. I did a 35% 4 days ago and nitrates are already up, so I've added pothos plants above my tank with roots in the water hoping this will help.

I am slightly overstocked and I probably overfeed my fish.

Those plants should help a fair bit. Overfeeding will do it or the type of feed as well. I feed mine once a day as much as they can woof down in 2 mins. For the O2A tank there's nothing left over to pollute the tank and even if there was, the cleanup crew takes care of that. I've also noted that the current flow of a tank plays a crucial role in the health of both fish and tank. The flow of my O2A tank sweeps across the length of the tank, meaning outflow on the left, inflow on the right including a skimmer.

My fancies tank is fed HikarI sinking dry food and very little is missed when feeding them.

While I understand the therory behind the water changes I don't fully agree with it. If all is growing well (plants/fish) with no issues and parameters are stable, then weekly top offs should be enough for most setups imo. My O2A is fairly planted so this also helps. I also use over-filtration as well. The O2A tank uses a 525gph canister which is more than enough for a 55 gallon and when setup rightly with the right medias for the tank in requirement, then WC's could be minimized imo.

My outdoor pond never gets WC's unless a problem arrises, which so far has not. There is some rainfall but not quite enough to starve off the evap so I also have a auto-level top-off that is run through 2 micron filters and a ro filter before enter the pond water way. Never lost a koi or plant yet and have being building ponds for many years. Setup it up right and it almost looks after itself.

 

So, some lighting updates;

Will be upgrading to the dual TMZ Grobeam 600 after lots of careful reading and just not happy that the Current Satellite unit just died after 6 months which was due to a humidity that got inside the case. I installed this inside of a custom top cover with ventilation fan and still enough got in to screw up the unit.

My electronic background is highly in favor of the TMZ unit after spending days reading, viewing and talking with many people. Have had one problem with the Current single strip due to a water splash that got into the controller which I had to fight with both the retailer and Current themselves where in the end it was replaced, but was like getting a f'ing root canal done.

Now this really pushes my buttons so to speak. Manufacturers make things for a wet environment yet offer no warrenty in case of. Fish do splash, especially koi. So Current and other similar units are off my list. Yes there's Finnex, Marineland and a few others in the same category of led (inexpensive technology for the most part using common smt LEDs or current limiting circuits and simply don't want anything to do with these units at this point and time. For almost the same price that I paid for the Current unit I can get the TMZ unit which is yes, a little more expensive, but there is the old saying you get what you pay for. Like really, kessle is the same company as current yet the price difference is unreal but the quality is also quite different as well. You'd think these bozos would carry the same pride across the spectrum of manufacturing but no, it's simply not the case and I'm not up for the fight to prove the point of who's right and who's wrong. I could spin around them with my electronics background, but not worth the effort of time.

Burned once, that's one thing, burned twice and well, your gone.

 

To say your tank looks beautiful is not doing it justice. Really, really nice!

 

To say your tank looks beautiful is not doing it justice. Really, really nice!

Why thank you! It surpassed my expectations considering it was the first Aquarium build ever since I was a young boy. Back then guppies and goldfish were the big thing, today, well holy cow batman, got more choices than cod-liver oil pills.

So, knock on wood as it's doing very well both in growth factors and overall look. In fact I get thinking on what I could do with 200 gallons and then I slap myself and say "Fool, don't you have enough!" lol

As soon as I get the new lights I'll post updates.