LED Aquarium light

Discussion in 'Saltwater Aquarium Lighting' started by outlaw, Nov 28, 2009.

  1. outlaw

    outlawWell Known MemberMember

    Another thread about this.

    Maybe we can come up with something that someone might finish though. I have seen threads in here and googling around but it seems nobody has finished anything.

    I was searching and found a review at   where it gave the spec of the LED

    I had bought some LED's to play with, but their view angle was too narrow even though they had a 28,500mcd.

    Is there anything in specific to be looking for when trying to do lighting for Reef tanks? I know for a Fish Only tank with nothing else living, the lighting is just that, light. But in the tanks with other living oranisms like plants, corals and LR, they all have their needs.

    Can anybody help with the information needed to use LED's instead of the expensive Halides?
     
  2. Aquarist

    AquaristFishlore LegendMember

    Hello Outlaw. :animal0068: I've moved your thread to the Saltwater Equipment/Saltwater Aquarium Lighting section of the forum. This may help you to get more responses.
    Ken
     
  3. OP
    OP
    outlaw

    outlawWell Known MemberMember

    Thanks.

    I donno if anybody can verify this.

    Since building this would be the easier then understanding everything that a saltwater tank would need.

    -Luminosity is not necessarily important because that is how we see it and not what the plants/corals use but still gives us the idea of how bright the light is compared to another one.
    -Actinic Bulb should be 10,000K - 20,000K for the corals and depending on the depth of the tank. From what I read the 20,000K is really only necessary for 24" or deeper tanks.
    -White Bulb should be in the 6500K-7000K range.
    -Lux should be at the least 3000 at the deepest point of the tank but not be more then 100,000 (Sunny day).

    The other thing to look out for is:

    PUR- Photosynthetically Usable Radiation
    RAR- Photosynthetically Active Radiation

    Am I understanding this correctly?
     
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2009
  4. OP
    OP
    outlaw

    outlawWell Known MemberMember

    Not sure if people are looking at this anymore but here goes anyways.

    As I was reading and searching I found this:
     

    It's a 75Gal using 24 Q5 CREE XR-E White and 24 CREE Royal Blue.
    Granted the total building cost was just over 600, at the rate of the LED (11yrs) vs standard bulb replacement (6-18mo), it will more then likely pay for itself a lot sooner then your standard fixture. They even have the PAR listed in several locations.

    Q5 CREE XR-E Spec:
    # 107 lm @ 350mA
    # 1000mA - Max Drive Current
    # 3.3Vf - Typ. Forward Voltage @ 350mA
    # 6350K - Color Temperature

    EndorStar LED Spec:
    # 300 lm @ 350mA
    # 540 lm @ 700mA
    # 1000mA - Max Drive Current
    # 9.45Vf - Forward Voltage 350mA
    # 10.2Vf - Forward Voltage 700mA
    # 6500K - Typ. Color Temperature
    # 140° - Viewing Angle

    The EndorStar is actually 3 LED's but would be considered 1 fixture to provide 4 times the lm at the same current draw, downside is it requires 10.2v VS 3.3v
     
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2009
  5. OP
    OP
    outlaw

    outlawWell Known MemberMember

    Found a site that rents PAR Meters.
     
     




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