Leash Aggression

sassymomma
  • #1

Shamas 1st week.jpg We adopted Shamas, a 55lb, 5y/old Labrador retreiver on October 27th, and he's sweet. He'd just been neutered, so wasn't quite himself whem he came home. we did notice some Territorial aggression barking and growling at dogs passing by...he got off the leash and headbutted the neighbour's chiahuaha.... but I've trained an aggressive dog before, so I wasn't too worried long term.

Now, 2 weeks after adoption, Shamas has in the last 2 days lunged at a King Shephard as we passed, tried to get at a Lab across the street, attempted to dig under a fence this morning to get to the dogs in the yard and tried to pull across the street to a fenced collie who was mouthing off at him. I frankly am so hard put dealing with his behavior that I don't have time to observe if it's straight up aggression, arousal, or what :/ It's not all dogs, he met my dad's dogs just fine, and the dog 2 doors down too. just on the walk. I had wondered if my short-leashed walk had anything to do with it, but I don't dare let him out right now with him so unpredictable.

It seemed to get worse after I used the Gentle Leader, suggested by a behavioralist, to walk him.(because he's fearful of traffic, and has on one occasion backed himself into the main road) He lunged at the neighbour's chihauaha a second time, found himself in a tug of war with his own nose, and has been worse ever since.


What I DO know is I need to get control of his head- this front clip harness is absolutely useless for controlling a lunging dog, and I've had to physically pick him up by the back strap to walk on tiptoes past the opposition. This morning even that didn't work, I had him by both the harness AND the collar, making corrections with the collar to turn his head away from the other dog. He calms down almost as soon as he can't see them so all I need to do is get him past, and I can reward his passing by without event.

I have a Training session coming up, and I'm going to use it to address this issue. If necessary I'll pay for further sessions. In meantime, I NEED control of his head, so I can turn him away and redirect his attention.

Can anyone suggest a collar/head harness/tool that will give me control of Shamas's head? I want the clip at the top, behind the skull, so that I can hold him firm and make him walk past fenced dogs if he sees them before me. I don't want something that I put on high, and it drops to his lower neck the minute he sniffs the ground-it's useless there, as he's all muscle on his lower neck and will just pull against me. So far I've used, and own Gentle-Leader head harness(rubbed bld spots on his nose in less than a week) Easy Leader no pull harness(fine for a loose walk but offers no control over an unruly dog. ) Standard flat buckle collar to hold tags

I Don't want to resort to the Prong collar, which I've used in the past training an aggressive shephard..he hasn't the fur on his neck to pad the prongs, and he is too damaged emotionally to suffer the pain. I don't know how to use a Choke chain, so I refuse to even touch it. I know some swear by them, but I also know that improperly used they can kill. I'm not willing to take that risk, when there are so many other tools at my disposal
 

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WTFish?
  • #2
The Dog Forum I hope I’m not breaking a rule by suggesting another forum...if so I apologize and please delete..
I’ve always had dogs but just recently got my first big dog..American bulldog, 16 weeks, we are in puppy classes and finding a lot of info on this forum...some I don’t agree with and others are helpful. I feel your pain, ours was on a prong for maybe 3 hours over a 2 day period and still has a rash, that was 3 weeks ago...I can’t bear to use it again but simply nothing else works, except hours of positive reinforcement....next time IF I HAVE TO, we have the rubber tips to put on them..
 
sassymomma
  • Thread Starter
  • #3
WTFish? Is it just pulling with your guy, or aggression too? The Freedom no-Pull Harness is getting rave reviews from large breed owners. I might actually buy it myself, once I manage this aggression. It's got a clip at front and back, so you can let them "loose" on trail walks

I'll check the forum out too. it's great having a fish site, and would be useful to have the same for Shamas
 
WTFish?
  • #4
WTFish? Is it just pulling with your guy, or aggression too? The Freedom no-Pull Harness is getting rave reviews from large breed owners. I might actually buy it myself, once I manage this aggression. It's got a clip at front and back, so you can let them "loose" on trail walks

I'll check the forum out too. it's great having a fish site, and would be useful to have the same for Shamas
Yeah no aggression just yanking when people or dogs are near, he loves everyone on earth! Lol...I let him off leash on empty trails or in the deep woods, he’s perfect, follows eveywhere. But not in class or where he wants to greet others. We now have the front clip harness, much better but not perfect. Actually it’s only better when making him turn to walk instead of stop and sniff etc...if there’s a fog he still fights it and lunges which makes him wind up back toward me. Even my vet said once his neck heals to use the prong again! But only during training, I’m Not liking that option...but idk what to do...
 
Galathiel
  • #5
I personally feel a prong is kinder on their body than a haltI or no pull harness. Normally a dog will respect a prong and learns quickly not to pull as it will get a pinch. Haltis and no pull harnesses can irritate the skin and also cause injury. When fitted correctly (snug under the chin, not loose and hanging), it can effectively curb a dog's dangerous habit of lunging. I have a 90 lb medium drive German Shepherd. He's very excited about getting his collar on because he knows we're going somewhere.
 
sassymomma
  • Thread Starter
  • #6
I had great success with the prong with the shepherd mix that I trained, and am familiar with it’s use. Part of me says “use it” part is holding back because he’s reactive
 
WTFish?
  • #7
I mentioned to my trainer about a bandanna or cloth under the prong and she said it wouldn’t be effective? No pinch, I feel even if no pinch there would still be pressure. Not sure what to try
 
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sassymomma
  • Thread Starter
  • #8
Where on the neck is the rash? Does he have space to wear it with the rubber tips but not over the rash?

The prong works on the premise that when the dog pulls it pinches, so if there’s no pinch then it is not worth using...

I know that my dad lets it sit low on his retrievers necks now that they are trained, and while it’s less effective because of the muscle mass, it’s still better than a flat buckle.....you could ask the trainer about that?

Not ideal of course
 
Galathiel
  • #9
I would work on threshold training with your dog. You need to work under your dog's threshold to react. If your dog reacts, then you are too close. It may mean turning around as soon as he notices another dog, turning around and walking away, stepping off the path, etc. Eventually, you can teach a dog to not react. Mine was a horrible puller/lunger. I would even have to pull him out of class and work with him to one side because it was too stimulating to be too close. An about face when your dog hyperfocuses (prelude to lunging/pulling) can redirect your dog into following you instead of paying attention to something or someone else.

ETA: Frankly, until he heals, I would utilize something like a loop around the belly. It tightens when they pull and feels weird cause they aren't used to pressure there. He won't pull with it there hard enough that you can't control him, that's for sure.
 
WTFish?
  • #10
Where on the neck is the rash? Does he have space to wear it with the rubber tips but not over the rash?

The prong works on the premise that when the dog pulls it pinches, so if there’s no pinch then it is not worth using...

I know that my dad lets it sit low on his retrievers necks now that they are trained, and while it’s less effective because of the muscle mass, it’s still better than a flat buckle.....you could ask the trainer about that?

Not ideal of course
Not really enough space, it’s healing nicely though, so maybe rubber tips next, it also may be a metal allergy, since he never pulled when wearing it..

I would work on threshold training with your dog. You need to work under your dog's threshold to react. If your dog reacts, then you are too close. It may mean turning around as soon as he notices another dog, turning around and walking away, stepping off the path, etc. Eventually, you can teach a dog to not react. Mine was a horrible puller/lunger. I would even have to pull him out of class and work with him to one side because it was too stimulating to be too close. An about face when your dog hyperfocuses (prelude to lunging/pulling) can redirect your dog into following you instead of paying attention to something or someone else.

ETA: Frankly, until he heals, I would utilize something like a loop around the belly. It tightens when they pull and feels weird cause they aren't used to pressure there. He won't pull with it there hard enough that you can't control him, that's for sure.

Exactly what I’ve been practicing, if I see a distant distraction I’ll redirect him another way, hopefully before he sees and just praise etc...
 
James17
  • #11
I had to use a pinch collar on a dog like this and it worked very quickly, once the collar went on she changed her attitude.
 
DarkOne
  • #12
Prong collars are much better than choke collars. Choke collars put all the pressure on one spot on the neck and if not used correctly, can hurt the dog even when he backs off. I used a Herm Sprenger prong collar on my rescued GSD/Lab mix. They cost a bit more but much better made and safer than cheaper ones I've seen. It also needs to be used correctly for training and not just a collar for walking.
 
sassymomma
  • Thread Starter
  • #13
I would work on threshold training with your dog. You need to work under your dog's threshold to react. If your dog reacts, then you are too close. It may mean turning around as soon as he notices another dog, turning around and walking away, stepping off the path, etc. Eventually, you can teach a dog to not react. Mine was a horrible puller/lunger. I would even have to pull him out of class and work with him to one side because it was too stimulating to be too close. An about face when your dog hyperfocuses (prelude to lunging/pulling) can redirect your dog into following you instead of paying attention to something or someone else.

ETA: Frankly, until he heals, I would utilize something like a loop around the belly. It tightens when they pull and feels weird cause they aren't used to pressure there. He won't pull with it there hard enough that you can't control him, that's for sure.

I’m actually doing extensive research into that right now. Most of the trainers outlining the method actually suggest the harness that I have, although I hate walking around holding his leash up so that he doesn’t trip over it. I swear I spend more time untangling his legs than I do walking:/. Either that or he’s trying to haul me down the street because he objects to the short leash and could care less that the martingale loop is tightened on him. It simply doesn’t seem to be suited to him.

He’s between sizes, so I had a choice between too small or just a tad big
 
Galathiel
  • #14
I tried a no-pull harness; however, I found that it rubbed his leg and he could still pull uncomfortably for me hehe. Dogs are strong!
 
sassymomma
  • Thread Starter
  • #15
I have just noticed a blister under Shamas chest from the harness too. That means that both the harness and the gentle leader have hurt him

I’m looking at the Pack Leader collar now....it will keep the lead at the top of his neck, and let me control him, and I can get down to training as though he were on a prong
 
sassymomma
  • Thread Starter
  • #16
So today I spent a few hours looking at tools in pet stores, but can’t get the collar I want. The worker suggested the slip collar, but it works like a choke, so I don’t think I feel comfortable with it. I walk on both sides and it will only release if on one side or another.

Today I clipped his leash on both the harness and the gentle leader at the same time, to reduce the pressure that either one can put on him. That helps

When we saw a dog, we squeezed his toy, and waved treats under his nose as we kept him walking- he only lunged twice before allowing himself to be distracted, and we gave him treats after we were past the dog and he calmed down

I’m considering a martingale collar, but I have a feeling he’s going to be on a prong whether I like it or not, simply because that’s the tool that I am familiar and confident with
 
WTFish?
  • #17
We used a slip collar for a week and my guy didn’t care, he’d still pull until his eyes were red and bulging... I also used a rigged double lead, one end on front harness ring and the other end attached to his flat collar...it does help release pressure from both ends, but like you said, not enough...maybe prong forever here too....good luck!
 
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junebug
  • #18
Stuff like this is always hard. I have one dog who is hyper-aggressive with new dogs of any kind. He takes a year to acclimate to new dogs and even then can be unpredictable for a while.

I personally use a choker chain on him because he's a bully breed and I don't want to take any risks (he could kill another dog if he ever wanted to, and I won't let that happen).

With your guy, some of this could be because he was neutered fairly recently (it takes a few months for the testosterone to let off in their systems) but it could also be any number of other things, or more likely, a combination of other things. If he's getting aggressive at the fence, my first guess would be that it's territorial.

You'll get a lot of grief for using a prong collar. But I say use it. I have also used a shock collar on my boy as a quick correction for misbehavior when he's off-leash because again, I can't take any risks.

Have you been able to determine whether the aggression is fear-based or not? Fear-based aggression is usually easier to detect and harder to control. My best advice is get the corrective tools you're most comfortable with, and try your best not to assume Shamas will lunge at other dogs when he sees them, as you thinking he will is only going to encourage him to do it more.
 
NightShade
  • #19
I agree with what Junebug asked/said... fear based or aggression based is key to know. Also, redirecting his focus: like someone said above, make him focus on YOU... other training (sitting, staying etc... 24/7 "expectations" if you understand my meaning - make him your shadow if you can - especially since it could be aggression, even fear based would benefit - lol, almost like military school just, obviously, only do it in a positive reinforcement type of way) it will also aid in training him and showing him he can trust you (which is important, because he's not going to respond if he is unsure of your motives - *especially if his misbehavior is fear based*). Also, always make him sit before you leave the house, at the door, make him wait on YOU to open the door and YOU take the first step outside, then him. (Shows him who is in control: YOU - absolutely you - what these things give him is confidence/comfort to know he will be taken care of - which obviously we know that... but he's gotta learn it, and being an older adoptee, he needs to be shown more than a young puppy)

Also, yea... a harness on a large strong dog... well, I'll put it this way, when we had an icy driveway, it was great for skating on your shoes.. and a hurt butt lol. It puts you holding onto the absolute strongest part of a dog... there shoulders - think what football players lead/hit with! Lol, in our case (my parents dog, with my help), it was with a 80 lbs (now like 90 some pounds) pit bull, which are known to be able to pull some weight. Lol.. competition pulling records are like around a few thousand pounds these dogs can pull! :| I'll always say go with what YOU are comfortable with, if it's the prong, use it (when he heals, obviously! Lol) They can tell if you're not comfortable or unsure/insecure... which is not good. They react the way they do (sometimes) because you're unsure - usually in a way that we don't like.. or in a dangerous way.

Now, our four dogs (boyfriend and mine), are a different story... have aggression issues here. Unfortunately, everyone in the household has to keep a tight ship (training wise).. aaannndd it's only the two of us

It's a shame the gentle leader didn't work. It worked WONDERS on my parents dog Ajax (lol... named after Iliad/Odessey character... brother wasn't aware there was a cleaner with the same name... ... shocking right?! Sorry boys! just my bro... I don't think he learned how to use a washing machine until he was like 20 ) but he is like WTFish? 's dog... which I highly recommend the gentle leader for her. He is now able to qualify as a therapy dog (go to the VA & nursing homes), I just need to complete his certification, (I had a pretty serious injury and had to put on hold) but he LOVES everyone!! Lol... had to learn to contain it (all 90 lbs of him ).

Yeah no aggression just yanking when people or dogs are near, he loves everyone on earth! Lol...I let him off leash on empty trails or in the deep woods, he’s perfect, follows eveywhere. But not in class or where he wants to greet others. We now have the front clip harness, much better but not perfect. Actually it’s only better when making him turn to walk instead of stop and sniff etc...if there’s a fog he still fights it and lunges which makes him wind up back toward me. Even my vet said once his neck heals to use the prong again! But only during training, I’m Not liking that option...but idk what to do...
 
WTFish?
  • #20
I agree with what Junebug asked/said... fear based or aggression based is key to know. Also, redirecting his focus: like someone said above, make him focus on YOU... other training (sitting, staying etc... 24/7 "expectations" if you understand my meaning - make him your shadow if you can - especially since it could be aggression, even fear based would benefit - lol, almost like military school just, obviously, only do it in a positive reinforcement type of way) it will also aid in training him and showing him he can trust you (which is important, because he's not going to respond if he is unsure of your motives - *especially if his misbehavior is fear based*). Also, always make him sit before you leave the house, at the door, make him wait on YOU to open the door and YOU take the first step outside, then him. (Shows him who is in control: YOU - absolutely you - what these things give him is confidence/comfort to know he will be taken care of - which obviously we know that... but he's gotta learn it, and being an older adoptee, he needs to be shown more than a young puppy)

Also, yea... a harness on a large strong dog... well, I'll put it this way, when we had an icy driveway, it was great for skating on your shoes.. and a hurt butt lol. It puts you holding onto the absolute strongest part of a dog... there shoulders - think what football players lead/hit with! Lol, in our case (my parents dog, with my help), it was with a 80 lbs (now like 90 some pounds) pit bull, which are known to be able to pull some weight. Lol.. competition pulling records are like around a few thousand pounds these dogs can pull! :| I'll always say go with what YOU are comfortable with, if it's the prong, use it (when he heals, obviously! Lol) They can tell if you're not comfortable or unsure/insecure... which is not good. They react the way they do (sometimes) because you're unsure - usually in a way that we don't like.. or in a dangerous way.

Now, our four dogs (boyfriend and mine), are a different story... have aggression issues here. Unfortunately, everyone in the household has to keep a tight ship (training wise).. aaannndd it's only the two of us

It's a shame the gentle leader didn't work. It worked WONDERS on my parents dog Ajax (lol... named after Iliad/Odessey character... brother wasn't aware there was a cleaner with the same name... ... shocking right?! Sorry boys! just my bro... I don't think he learned how to use a washing machine until he was like 20 ) but he is like WTFish? 's dog... which I highly recommend the gentle leader for her. He is now able to qualify as a therapy dog (go to the VA & nursing homes), I just need to complete his certification, (I had a pretty serious injury and had to put on hold) but he LOVES everyone!! Lol... had to learn to contain it (all 90 lbs of him ).
That’s great, next we will try a halti, but honestly if he quits breaking out on his neck, I’d rather use a prong, people do think it’s a medieval torture device (so did I) but if used properly it works...I thought about him as a therapy dog too,....hmm, loads of training I’m sure. He’s expected to be about 120 pounds ack!
 
NightShade
  • #21
That’s great, next we will try a halti, but honestly if he quits breaking out on his neck, I’d rather use a prong, people do think it’s a medieval torture device (so did I) but if used properly it works...I thought about him as a therapy dog too,....hmm, loads of training I’m sure. He’s expected to be about 120 pounds ack!

Baahahaha... then you'd definitely be going for a ride if you used a harness!! Lol... got a mental pic of that... or maybe a flashback sort of thing lol

Yea, when used correctly, prongs are not bad. But not necessary if he is trained, and stays that way.. my parents don't even use a leash anymore for the most part (because my dad is about like my BF, can't understand/do the whole "dog training" thing so he sometimes uses one lol)... but our dogs... oh lord have mercy on me... they untrain themselves VERY, VERY, VERY quickly

Edit: didn't emphasize the "very" enough lol
 
junebug
  • #22
Redirecting attention is always good for curbing aggression, no matter the cause of the aggression (which is why I found the shock collar so useful. it's a low-level distraction if the power isn't hiked up too high). My dog knows that he's not allowed to fight with other dogs, even if he still slips up sometimes. I've actually got him so obedient that he can be in the middle of an all-out dog fight and as soon as I get his attention, he stops and sits like he's supposed to. Sadly, this doesn't work for the other dogs... but oh well. Nothing I can do about them. Either way I lucked out with him in that while he's very fearful of strange dogs and very protective of me he usually only starts fights if other dogs are around me, or if he thinks I'm vulnerable like when I'm sitting down) he is extremely pliable and obedient. The most I've ever had to do was distract him from a fight by pouring cold water on him LOL.

Anyway I've found it's easiest to just always be prepared (I bring a muzzle with me when we're likely to encounter other dogs) and make sure that Smudge knows he is to do as I say and nothing else, regardless of the circumstances.

WTFish? what kind of dog is this giant thing you have? LOL!
 
sassymomma
  • Thread Starter
  • #23
I believe Shamas is either fear or arousal based aggression. I’ve had my hands so full this far that I couldn’t properly observe

If the dog is halfway down the block, he can be distracted. If it’s across the street and calm, we’re fine. If it’s another reactive/aggressive dog, or if it’s a small breed, he goes wild lunging and growly barks.
 
junebug
  • #24
I believe Shamas is either fear or arousal based aggression. I’ve had my hands so full this far that I couldn’t properly observe

If the dog is halfway down the block, he can be distracted. If it’s across the street and calm, we’re fine. If it’s another reactive/aggressive dog, or if it’s a small breed, he goes wild lunging and growly barks.

He sounds very territorial (this could easily be fear-based). If the other dogs are deemed as threatening, it sounds like that's when he goes off. My aggressive dog is terrified of small dogs so as odd as it sounds, it kind of makes sense.

I think with the right training tools he will be okay.
 
WTFish?
  • #25
Redirecting attention is always good for curbing aggression, no matter the cause of the aggression (which is why I found the shock collar so useful. it's a low-level distraction if the power isn't hiked up too high). My dog knows that he's not allowed to fight with other dogs, even if he still slips up sometimes. I've actually got him so obedient that he can be in the middle of an all-out dog fight and as soon as I get his attention, he stops and sits like he's supposed to. Sadly, this doesn't work for the other dogs... but oh well. Nothing I can do about them. Either way I lucked out with him in that while he's very fearful of strange dogs and very protective of me he usually only starts fights if other dogs are around me, or if he thinks I'm vulnerable like when I'm sitting down) he is extremely pliable and obedient. The most I've ever had to do was distract him from a fight by pouring cold water on him LOL.

Anyway I've found it's easiest to just always be prepared (I bring a muzzle with me when we're likely to encounter other dogs) and make sure that Smudge knows he is to do as I say and nothing else, regardless of the circumstances.

WTFish? what kind of dog is this giant thing you have? LOL!
FlokI is an American Bulldog
 
junebug
  • #26
FlokI is an American Bulldog

The sturdy kind I guess LOL not the boxer-looking variety.

Smudge is a bull terrier mixed with I don't even know what. So I feel ya. LOL (also I love the name. after the Vikings character, or just because it's an awesome name?)
 
WTFish?
  • #27
The sturdy kind I guess LOL not the boxer-looking variety.

Smudge is a bull terrier mixed with I don't even know what. So I feel ya. LOL (also I love the name. after the Vikings character, or just because it's an awesome name?)
Viking character! Yes, no one gets it! But it also means “heroic Viking”. Here’s a pic...pretty sturdy. Lol. He’s only 16 weeks...
 

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junebug
  • #28
Viking character! Yes, no one gets it! But it also means “heroic Viking”. Here’s a pic...pretty sturdy. Lol. He’s only 16 weeks...

That dog has a very serious look on his face... LOL! SO cute <3
 
sassymomma
  • Thread Starter
  • #29
So today we fitted Shamas with his prong collar and his turnaround was amazing! Another dog came in the store and he began to growl but I just walked him in a circle and he forgot about the other guy. It really is all about the right tools for communication with dogs

Don’t get the prong from petsmart though.....the one I got there came open and fell off him before we even left the area, and because they’d tagged a 20” collar with an 18” scam tag they wouldn’t return it....not only that but they accused me of trying to return a product other than the one I’d bought! I was out 30bucks for a crummy collar


So I’m going to use pliers to adjust the prongs, which are too close together and slip out of the next link, and keep it as spare.
 
sassymomma
  • Thread Starter
  • #30
The prong seems to be doing the trick

I hadn’t wanted to use it, but sometimes user confidence is more important than any other factor when choosing the right tool for the job

I think I’ll drop onto amazon and pick up the rubber tips, since he doesn’t need the “discipline” of the prong. It’s more about how it fits and works for me to steer him.

The leash aggression has dropped off now that I am walking confidently and I am working on the “walk by” command, in conjunction with “positive associations “, fast feeding treats any time he can focus on me instead of other dogs
 
WTFish?
  • #31
The prong seems to be doing the trick

I hadn’t wanted to use it, but sometimes user confidence is more important than any other factor when choosing the right tool for the job

I think I’ll drop onto amazon and pick up the rubber tips, since he doesn’t need the “discipline” of the prong. It’s more about how it fits and works for me to steer him.

The leash aggression has dropped off now that I am walking confidently and I am working on the “walk by” command, in conjunction with “positive associations “, fast feeding treats any time he can focus on me instead of other dogs
That’s great news!, I told you I didn’t want to use the prong again either...our last class was starting off as a disaster, put the prong on with rubber tips and bam, perfect dog...no rash this time either.
 
sassymomma
  • Thread Starter
  • #32
The thing with the prong, it allows better communication between dog and owner. With a nylon collar, harness, gentle leader...you can deter unwanted behaviour but not offer guidance as to what you actually want from them.

I love that the prong requires so little movement of the lead to offer guidance

Raise it to stop, lay across the back to go, lean left or right to turn. It’s a little like the “bit” on a horse....power steering lol

Right now, I’m walking him with the leash high and loose, so that he can learn to walk close and not sniff everything lol
 
WTFish?
  • #33
The thing with the prong, it allows better communication between dog and owner. With a nylon collar, harness, gentle leader...you can deter unwanted behaviour but not offer guidance as to what you actually want from them.

I love that the prong requires so little movement of the lead to offer guidance

Raise it to stop, lay across the back to go, lean left or right to turn. It’s a little like the “bit” on a horse....power steering lol

Right now, I’m walking him with the leash high and loose, so that he can learn to walk close and not sniff everything lol
Sounds like we are in the same boat...getting better each day. And yes! I’ve always referred to it as a horse bit! Lol
 
jlm418
  • #34
Haven't t read all the posts but I would suggest a slip leash. You really have to use it right tho. It has to stay up high pretty much right were the head meets neck. You then keep his head up. No smelling or anything just walking right next to you or in back. Not in front of you. Make sure to stay relaxed. You are expecting him to lunge now so you Probly tense up which he picks up on and thinks you need to be protected. My dog will lunge at other dogs when my wife is with because she Is worried it will happen. Just fine if its just me. My best advice is just be confident in what you are doing and what you expect of your dog. If you lead they will follow.
 
sassymomma
  • Thread Starter
  • #35
I did seriously consider the slip leash, but you have to keep the dog on one side. With Shamas fear of .....we’ll everything....I switch sides regularly. I’m afraid that a slip would tighten and not release if he were on the wrong side

I’m confident with the prong, because I know how to use it.... but I hadn’t wanted to on a sensitive dog

It turns out he’s much better on it, because he knows now that I can lead confidently and don’t need protection, as you say
 
junebug
  • #36
I'm glad he's doing better Yay!
 
NightShade
  • #37
Omg! Sooo glad he's doing better!! Keep at it, he will be well trained in no time And yea, confidence is definitely key. That's for sure!!
 

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