Kohaku Swordtail Sitting In Corner

Discussion in 'Freshwater Fish Forums' started by MMiah523, Jul 14, 2019.

  1. MMiah523

    MMiah523New MemberMember

    Hi, this is my first post.
    I've had some swordtails as my first pet. I've made sure that the water was left for a week so that the nitrogen cycle can happen.
    I was told to add some tap water conditioner in. I have 11 swordtails (all female) in a 70 litre tank.
    The swordtail is sitting in the corner doing nothing. It's moving it's fins but not moving anywhere.
    I had the same problem before and the fish died the next day. Is there anything I can do?

    I've added a picture of it, it's not a clear picture. This is a share link to a video of its behaviour: https://photos.app.goo.gl/4oW8ijEx5UWYxKWE6
    I'm going to be doing a partial water change tomorrow.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Girlygreen

    GirlygreenNew MemberMember

    Is there anything in your tank other than fish? It is hard to tell from the photo.
     
  3. OP
    OP
    MMiah523

    MMiah523New MemberMember

    Sorry I only took a picture of the fish that was affected. There is a filter in the middle of the tank but it's not overpowering the fish as sitting on the bottom is recent. I have a small rock formation decoration.
     
  4. Girlygreen

    GirlygreenNew MemberMember

    Okay, so you have no gravel or sand or anything in the bottom, no plants, and no light?

    How did you cycle the tank?

    Is this a quarantine tank, or is this where the fish will live?
     
  5. OP
    OP
    MMiah523

    MMiah523New MemberMember

    I cycled the tank by siphoning off 50% of the water and I put some freshwater in with some conditioner. The tank does have a light. I was going to have gravel at the bottom buy when I bought the fish I was told that it could hurt the fish so I left it bare. It isn't a quarantine tank.
     
  6. kallililly1973

    kallililly1973Well Known MemberMember

    Setting up a new tank needs 4-6 weeks for the nitrogen cycle to complete. You have to either use fish food pure ammonia or a bottled bacteria to get it going. What are your water parameters ammonia nitrite and nitrates. Looks like the tank is a little cloudy from a bacteria Bloom and that could be why your fish is suffering. On a side note I believe a 70 liter is much to small for 11 sword tails seeing they can get a good 4-5-6”.
     
  7. Girlygreen

    GirlygreenNew MemberMember

    Okay, so someone gave you some bad information.

    What you have right now is an un-cycled tank with no bacteria, and a lot of fish making poop.

    You will need things in the tank like sand or pebbles. You will need plants, (real or fake) and places for the fish to hide. They help the good bacteria to grow and make the fish feel more safe.

    If you put a fish in a tank without those things, it is very stressful for them, so it’s possible that they are also sick because of stress.

    It’s kind of like how a person could live in a bedroom, but without anything in it at all, and no way to get out, it could be very stressful, and somebody would not have a good life living like that, you know?

    It’s like moving into a house without a bed. So right now we want to add furniture and houseplants and things that make the fish house, a fish home.

    Go on to the beginner forum and look for threads about the nitrogen cycle.
    Get a master test kit and test all of the pentameters Nitrogen, Ammonia, PH and KH. Test them every day for a week, write it down every day so you can see how it is progressing.

    Look online for your species of fish, learn about where they come from, also search on here, you will find lots of tank ideas of where to start in terms of sand and plants.

    There is part of the freshwater forum dedicated to plants and another dedicated to decorating an aquarium.

    I hope this helps.
     
  8. OP
    OP
    MMiah523

    MMiah523New MemberMember

    I'm going to get some gravel for fish then and I'll get more things for fish to hide in. I've just done a test. The pH is between 8-8.5 which is nearing max from what I looked up. My GH and KH is high: 240 and 180. NO2 shows nothing but NO3 is high between 160 and 200 mg/L. I've got some tap water conditioner and bio boost.
     
  9. Girlygreen

    GirlygreenNew MemberMember

    Okay, we can work with this!
    Change 50% of the water (using the tap water conditioner) and add the recommended dosage of bio boost.

    High GH means you have high levels of dissolved calcium and magnesium in your water, so you should not need to supplement with those nutrients.

    High KH means that your PH should be easier to stablize, and there are a lot of trace minerals in your water.

    But this is good for the future because swordtails prefer hard water and a higher ph of 8.4 is doable.

    Do you know the water parameters of where you bought the fish? When you got them did you float the bag to in the tank and then put them in?
     
  10. OP
    OP
    MMiah523

    MMiah523New MemberMember

    When i
    When I got the fish I did float them so that they can acclimate and get used to variation in temp. I then slowly added my aquarium water so they got used to that. Did that for about 4ish hours before I finally put them in my aquarium. I don't know the water quality of the shop I bought them.
    When I got the fish I did float them so that they can acclimate and get used to variation in temp. I then slowly added my aquarium water so they got used to that. Did that for about 4ish hours before I finally put them in my aquarium. I don't know the water quality of the shop I bought them.
     
  11. Girlygreen

    GirlygreenNew MemberMember

    Good. You did the right thing.

    Without knowing what their water is like, you won’t know if the fish are suffering from osmotic shock.

    For example: If they were using reverse osmosis water and adding minerals back into the water to achieve a moderate GH and KH and their PH is around 7 that’s a pretty big leap to make in a short amount of time.

    But you did follow best practice when acclimating them, but it is still possible that your water is different.

    It is possible that the fish are sick, and that you had an ammonia spike in the beginning, which would explain why your nitrites are high a few days later.

    So changing the water is still a good bet. Retest the N03 after you change the water.

    Do the fish have any red streaking on their fins? Is the sick fish breathing rapidly?

    Add salt after you change the water and check the N03 to reduce the likelihood of nitrite poisoning.

    Here is a calculator so you know how much salt to add: (it is in Liters)



    Do this once and then keep an eye on them.

    Let us know how it goes.
     
  12. OP
    OP
    MMiah523

    MMiah523New MemberMember

    I've done a water change and have been monitoring water. The fish is no longer just sitting there in the corner and is eating fine.
    At the moment NO3 is between 0-20 mg/l and NO2 is 0. pH is at 8. KH and GH haven't changed at all.
     
  13. clovervalley

    clovervalleyValued MemberMember

    I would go to the beginner section, click on the nitrogen cycle info, then scroll down to cycling a tank with fish. It will be much more dangerous for your fish than cycling your tank beforehand, but you should come out with most fish alive! One of the key parts imo is using Seachem prime, as it detoxifies the harmful ammonia and nitrites. Does your test strips or test kit test for ammonia?
     
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