Just Starting New 20 Gallon Tank

Congrates!! Build the structure with rock first so that it is stable on the glass bottom, then add sand when tank is half full make sure that you rinse sand well (unless this is a live sand) which I am not sure of, and if it is do not rinse with freshwater if it is not live then major rinsing is required take a 5 gallon bucket and add about 3 lbs and rinse outside with your garden hose until the sand is clean and does not have any white color to the water then continue till all sand has been cleaned before adding to the tank.
go to my profile pictures and you will see how I have structured my tanks with no epoxy!!

 

I got crushed coral and carrib sand I'm going to try and use both. Yea the aquascaping is a little tuff but I used to do rock work and Lou ponds. Your tanks are awesome. Nice reference. I will have to post some pics. If you think of anything else let me know thanks.

 

No problem at mixing the two sands just make sure that you rinse very very well just as I mentioned in the post previous.

 

That's my tank so far. Tiny bit of clowdiness almost gone though. My buddy gave me the live rock and was wondering what's in that hole it was outside the hole last night. Let me know what u think.

 

It looks to me that it is a glass anemone. Can you see the body of it? All I can see from the pics is the tenicles.

 

That's all I can see right now. Is he good or bad? Defiantly an aiptasia. Does the red sea max aiptasia killer work? From what ive researched I need to get rid of him quick.

 

Take the rock out and scrape it out and rinse with lemon juice in that area wait about ten minutes then rinse with saltwater, make sure that you use a magnifiying glass to see the anemone. Or you can inject it with lemon juice but may take longer to rid the problem.

 

I'll try that. How do I keep my tiny patches of coralline algae to stay around? and will a crab take care of the aiptasia or the tank being new kill the crab? don't want that.

 

Coralline thrives with good lighting and calcium levels. IIRC above 380ppm, and low nitrates and phosphates also help.

Crabs probably won't help rid your aiptaisia, but peppermint shrimp will most likely erradicate it. As will Stang's suggestion of lemon juice injected into the mouth of it.

IMO - I wouldn't go adding a crab (or any invert, including shrimp) to a cycling tank. Inverts (like all livestock) are sensitive to water parameters, and a cycling tank is not a good environment for them.

 

Just eradicate the anemone for now and wait for anything else to add to the tank at this time be very certain that all test for ammonia and nitrites then nitrates are good before adding anything the coraline will grow with a correct amount of lighting which should be an actinic of 460 nm and a daylight bulb of 10,000 kelvin degrees at 3-5 watts per gallon soon as the ammonia and nirtites are at 0 ppm then the nitrates will follow and are under 12.5 ppm then wait it out for at least two months or so to make certain that the levels are good.This process takes time and if you defer from that then be prepared to have a down fall of the levels and can tke a very wrong turn on the tank.... What I recommend is that to take it slow meaning could be month's to do so so don't rush anything so that the rock has time to grow first before adding anything more. Does that make since???

 

Yea I understand the cycle. I am going to wait. But what about evaporation and a water change? Should I wait on the water change and just top off evaporation? And if mike is reading I would like to ask about the nano slI'm skI'm by hydor. I'm getting a lot of foam on the service of my water or is this normal. Thanks stang

 

If there is no stock in the tank, then yeah I would wait for water changes as there is little need. Top ups should always be done though to maintain your SG levels

 

Yea I understand the cycle. I am going to wait. But what about evaporation and a water change? Should I wait on the water change and just top off evaporation? And if mike is reading I would like to ask about the nano slI'm skI'm by hydor. I'm getting a lot of foam on the service of my water or is this normal. Thanks stang

Once the ammonia is at zero and nitrites are at zero let the nitrates top to highest toxic levels then you can do a major water change of about 50% and may take a few water changes to get the nitrates below 12.5 ppm after that let it stabilize and keep checking the nitrates every other day after a couple of weeks then you should be good to go. By all means do top offs with fresh water and not mixed with salt, the scum that you see is dieoff of algaes dead crustacean etc.
What is it that you need to know about the hydor skimmer maybe I can help?

 

well to start I feel like it is not skimming the surface or like its not pulling stuff out. the directions I read said it has three settings I was wondering what the best setting is for cycling the tank. and you might can answer this to I need to find some kind of mount for my light fixture it is sitting on top of the tank for now but I would like to lift it up some. but the tank has cleared up a lot I need to add some water all I have is tap water at my house I bought my tank water at lfs can I use my water and a dechlor? thanks again you the man stang. this tank is practicully part yours by now. lol.

 

well to start I feel like it is not skimming the surface or like its not pulling stuff out. the directions I read said it has three settings I was wondering what the best setting is for cycling the tank. and you might can answer this to I need to find some kind of mount for my light fixture it is sitting on top of the tank for now but I would like to lift it up some. but the tank has cleared up a lot I need to add some water all I have is tap water at my house I bought my tank water at lfs can I use my water and a dechlor? thanks again you the man stang. this tank is practicully part yours by now. lol.

Using tap is not a good idea first of all, I thought you said you had R/O is it in mind to have one? Did you set the tank up with tap water too? Give me more info on the tank from day one please.
As for the skimmer should operate at full volume at all times not sure what you have it set at at this time. But any how turn it off until the cycle is fully done there is no need until the tank has fully cycled and make sure that the light remains off as well or you will have algael blooms from the dieoff of ammonia and nitrites and after that the nitrates will create brown diatoms which is even worse. I am not sure if you have fish or corals etc. at this time I don't remember everyones needs but if you don't have anything other than cycling the rock then by all means do as I have recommended. Light is the major cause for algae to blossom so be aware that even the sun light from an open window will have the same effect. Write me back with the info I will try to remember! Lol

 

Spot on Stang!

Also worth noting, actnic lights are known to cause delays in cycling as the spectrum is close to UV, which can kill bacteria (both good and bad) so I'd leave the lights off as well.

Skimmers also need to 'run in' or 'break in' if you will. I thought my skimmer was doing nothing and then after a week or two, I started getting stuff in my cup Just a consideration for you. I'm with Stang though, you don't need to run the skimmer while cycling.

 

Spot on Stang!

Also worth noting, actnic lights are known to cause delays in cycling as the spectrum is close to UV, which can kill bacteria (both good and bad) so I'd leave the lights off as well.

Skimmers also need to 'run in' or 'break in' if you will. I thought my skimmer was doing nothing and then after a week or two, I started getting stuff in my cup Just a consideration for you. I'm with Stang though, you don't need to run the skimmer while cycling.

That's a big 10/4, trucker talk get it!!

 

Ok first off. I started the tank with saltwater from Lfs. The sg was 1.025. No I didn't use tap water for the tank but today o went to Lfs and asked about topping off the tank for evap and they sold me son prime dechlor and said I could use my tap water with the dechlor to top off. As for the other 2 things I will turn my lights and skimmer off and let it roll. As for test witch I did today I have. Oh at 8.0, ammonia at .50 ppl, ntrite at 0ppm and ntrate at 5.0 ppm. During cycle can I use moon lights at night. Stang as always you the man. And Ryan thanks for your info all is needed.

 

That's a big 10/4, trucker talk get it!!

Roger that rubber ducky!

pH is expected to swing while cycling, so that's no major concern at the moment.

You can run the moon lights if you wish (up to you). FWIW - I ran my white lights for a couple of hours each day, just 'cos I was curious and to have a look around and see what was happening in there. See if I could notice any hitch-hikers etc, but for the most part I left them off.

Sea water chemistry is a little different to FW, and the pH should be measured in conjuction with Alkalinity (KH), Calcium and Magnesium if possible to give a true reading. Now stabilised, my tank measures Alk of 8-9dKH and pH of 8.2-8.4 (API Liquid tests), Ca ~400-440ppm, Mg ~1400ppm.

All three parameters interact and contribute to your overall pH.

 

Roger that rubber ducky!

pH is expected to swing while cycling, so that's no major concern at the moment.

You can run the moon lights if you wish (up to you). FWIW - I ran my white lights for a couple of hours each day, just 'cos I was curious and to have a look around and see what was happening in there. See if I could notice any hitch-hikers etc, but for the most part I left them off.

Sea water chemistry is a little different to FW, and the pH should be measured in conjuction with Alkalinity (KH), Calcium and Magnesium if possible to give a true reading. Now stabilised, my tank measures Alk of 8-9dKH and pH of 8.2-8.4 (API Liquid tests), Ca ~400-440ppm, Mg ~1400ppm.

All three parameters interact and contribute to your overall pH.

I wouldnt say it's different to Freshwater chemistry. It's just that the link between KH and pH is more prominent in Saltwater setups and therefore needs to be monitored more closely, as with any parameter is Saltwater setups.

At the end of the day water is water, no matter what other molecules and compounds are mixed within it.

 

Ok back for more. What is the easiest way to get the salinity back to where it needs to be? My ammonia has been at .50 ppm for six days and my nitrites have jumped to almost .50 ppm. And getting a little dusting on my one piece of live rock.

 

Ok back for more. What is the easiest way to get the salinity back to where it needs to be? My ammonia has been at .50 ppm for six days and my nitrites have jumped to almost .50 ppm. And getting a little dusting on my one piece of live rock.

Only one way to lower salinity - remove some water, and add (preferably) RO to dilute the concentration already in the tank.

What is your salinity? or SG? (whichever you're measuring) Depending on your plans, you can probably get away with anywhere from 1.021 to 1.027 - I keep mine around 1.025-1.026, or salinity of 33-34ppt.

The dusting on the live rock is likely to be normal. I had a nice dusting over the entire tank for about a week, not sure if it was bacteria, a bit of die-off on the LR or accumulation of calcium from the sand and water mix. It cleared up on it's own. Either way, it sounds normal to me, and just one of the many cycles your tank will go through before it reaches its equilibrium.

Stay patient, it sounds like it's cycling (nitrogen cycle) just nicely. Saltwater tanks typically take longer to cycle than a Freshwater as a result of the higher pH.

What temperature are you at? I keep mine at 80F, but around 77-80F is not a bad range.

 

My sg is 1.022 I'm going out of town tomorrow and wanted everything to be right. My heat is on 79f. I wanted to raise the salinity to 1.025 before I go. I got a friend to watch everything for me while I'm gone. Actually going to the ocean SC coast. I heard of a cool Lfs I'm going to try it out.

 

My sg is 1.022 I'm going out of town tomorrow and wanted everything to be right. My heat is on 79f. I wanted to raise the salinity to 1.025 before I go. I got a friend to watch everything for me while I'm gone. Actually going to the ocean SC coast. I heard of a cool Lfs I'm going to try it out.

So you actually want to bring your SG up.

In which case you can:
a) WITH NO LIVESTOCK IN TANK - add salt directly to the existing water. Only use this approach when first setting up/establishing. Then go with b)
b) with livestock in the tank - slowly mix in water with a higher SG.

At SG 1.022 (@79F), your salinity is 29ppt
Your target of 1.025(@79F) is a salinity of 33ppt
A deficit of 4 ppt or 0.004

To bring 20G (75L) of water to 1.025 (33ppt), you could add approximately [apologies, all this works better in metric]

1ppt is equivalent to 1gram per Litre
75 * 0.004 = 0.3kg of salt, or 300grams of salt to the existing water (assuming no livestock) - always start slowly, and maybe do 200 gallon first, let it mix for an hour or two, and test again.

Also important: Are you using a refractometer or hydrometer? Hydrometers can be less accurate, and 1.022 could actually be 1.025

NOTE/DISCLAIMER: This a rough guide, based on the volume of water. It does not cater for any water that may be in a sump, nor the displacement of Live Rock etc that may reduce/increase the total capacity of the system.

 

Not much to add other than to say hI neighbor

Are there any shops over there in Pendleton?

 

Lower the temp to 76 degrees and also what do you keep your room temp at? I would not use a heater at this time of year there is no need for it, unless you keep the room below 72 degrees your chances of over heating the tank are greater. Last but not least, do not use tap water under any circumstances I believe we had already taked about that using tap is not a good choice even while the tank is cycling.
The whitening is from die off of algaes such as coraline either it was in the process of dieing and has found that the ammonia and nitrites are the culprate for the remaining dieoff, don't worry it will come back as time allows with the water chemistry and it all reflects on the lighting which we had talked about as well. Just let the tank do what it needs to and don't interfer with the process. And by all means use R/O or D/I water only from here out your LFS is misleading you in the wrong direction.
Stang

 

No there aren't any Lfs in pendleton used to be one in clemson. I read you stang. And thanks everyone else.

 

Ok I'm back for more. I added a couple of live rock to for tank when my nitrites where spiking. Well I checked tonite and my nitrites are at 0ppm, oh at 8.4, ammonia jumped from 0 to 1.0ppm, and my nitrates are at 20ppm.so will a water change fix the ammonia? I haven't done one yet. I'm getting lots of diatom algae. Let me know what you think.

 

The ammonia spike is likely a result of more live rock die-off.

Assuming you still have no livestock, I would let the 1ppm of ammonia cycle through to nitrites and then nitrates. You will likely get another rise in nitrates at the end of it, then do your water change.

If your ammonia kreeps up to around 4ppm, then I'd do a water change, but it shouldn't take long for the tank and existing bacteria colony to grow and take care of the ammonia.

 

Ok. Got a lot of diatoms algae the Lfs said I need to use carbon. Do I need to or not. Also thinking of getting some margarita snails and blue and red leg hermits. How many to get for a 20 gal?

 

Personally, you don't need carbon.

Diatoms are a perfectly natural part of a cycling tank, and will go away on their own.

I don't know anything about margarita snails, and I can't remember if this setup is FOWLR or Reef. If you're going for a reef, I would stay away from hermits, otherwise they're ok IMO.

 

Has the tank fully cycled? As for the brown diatoms use a phosphate/ silicate remover this will help to decrease the algae problem. If this tank has not cycled then wait before you add any life to the tank also are you using R/O water?

 

Well my nitrates are at 20ppm. Oh 8.2, ammonia up a tad at .25ppm,and nitrites at 0ppm. Ammonia and nitrites have already peaked. I just turned my skimmer on today. So that's what is happening here. Yes on the r/o water.

 

This is why the algae is blooming turn off the lights and keep them off til the ammonia and the nitrites have spiked and returned to zero after that the nitrates will spike and after the nitrates are at or below 12.5 ppm then gradually turn the lights on an hour each day, also there should be no sun light around the tank as well.

 

Ok its going on 5 and a 1/2 weeks still got diatoms all over but its cutting back I got 6 margarita snails 3 red leg and 3 blue leg hermits and one peppermint shrimp. The snails and crabs are getting the diatoms. The shrimp has taking care of my aiptasia and has molted. I'm starting to see pink spots all over the rock work. Nitrites are at 0. Nitrates are somewhere around 5 to 10 ppm but my ammonia is still high. Got skimmer on and I turn lights on for about an hour each day to check the critters out. Other than that I can't figure out the ammonia spike. Need help. Forgot to mention the Lfs told me to add carbon so that is in there to a mesh bag. Is it needed? And what kind of phosfate additive do I need to get?

 

Ok check water today my oh is 8.0,my ammonia has dropped closer to normal at .50 ppm, my nitrites is 0ppm, my nitrate is 40ppm. And sg is 1.024. Kg at 11 dkh, calcium over 520 ppm if I did the test right don't know. And phosphate between .25 and 0 ppm. Temp at 76.

 

Hiya - you could bump the temp up to around 80F to speed up the process. Slowly increase the temp to 80F over a day or so and increase the water flow in the tank with a powerhead to keep oxygen levels up. I actually keep my reef at 80F. You might be getting a false positive on your ammonia test kit if you have chloramines in your top off water. Have you tried testing the ammonia levels in your top-off/replacement water after you've added dechlorinator?

 

No I haven't tried that but I use water from grocery store. All so I checked water lastnight before a water change and ammonia was down to .25 ppm nitrates still up around 20 ppm. I have some green algae on live rock where I had coraline algae die off. The uncertain seem to be doing just fine. And I have coraline starting to grow on rock work.