Is This Idea About Water And Filtration A Good One?

I've been battling algae growth for a couple of months now. I did a massive cleaning of the glass and hardscape, reduced feeding, reduced lighting, and 20% WC's twice a week, but the algae returns between WC's. My carpeting plants are struggling since they're covered in algae and new sprouts get covered in days. I added a bit of CO2 hoping to encourage plant growth and competition for nutrients with the algae, but all it seems to be doing is making the algae pearl.

I'm thinking my tap water has elevated levels of phosphates which would probably be the root of my algae problems. I've ordered an API Phosphate Kit and will arrive on Monday. I also ordered a "Poly-Filter": in hopes that it will add another layer of protection against the algae. I haven't installed the filter yet since I wanted to test the tank conditions with the kit first.

Assuming I have high levels of phosphates in my tap, would installing an in-line phosphate filter under my kitchen sink really help make a difference in stopping algae in the long run? Has anyone tried using a phosphate water filter for their tap? I'm considering this brand:
An RO system isn't an option at this time, and they use up a lot of water too. I'm at the end of my rope with this algae so any ideas or advice is welcomed. Just fyI I live in southern California where the tap water is notoriously hard, if that info is of any use.

 

If you have high levels of phosphates and that's the cause of the algae then that will probably help a lot. I have to assume you aren't fertilizing though.

How did you add a bit of co2? All the co2 is really going to do is allow plants to uptake more nutrients and lighting. One part of your triangle is definitely way off and from the sound of it the culprit os your fert regimen.

 

Hello
Battling algae could be very hard unfortunately RO unit is one of the option to go rather you like it or not.


The phosphates filter remover will help to lower phosphates level (YES been there done it) generally most 3-pack will treats 27 gallons of water and will have to be replaced every month or so.. 3-pack will cost you average $14.00 a month x12 $168.00 a year, If your tank is bigger than 27.gal you will either need more packs keep it mind you not removing phosphates level you are only controlling situation once you stop than algae will return. (For money you gonna spent on any type filters over period time RO Unit still be better option to start)
The next issues you facing is caused by an underlying imbalance, You can solve this by adjusting a few important factors in your aquarium. Since you already start working with Co2. it’s a great way to balance things out. When done right, added will help your plants reach their full potential and easily out compete algae.
Lessen your lighting. Plants use Co2 when the light is on. If your are on for long periods, they will use more. If you lessen the amount of light, they will use less Co2 and other nutrients. More Co2 will be available for each plant during the growing time and algae won’t get the chance to take over. 8 hours of light is your max with regular strength. If things are really bad, try cutting your lighting cycle in half. A can help if you’re not present to turn the lights on and off at the right times.
Look at your Circulation. This is an issue in larger tanks and in set-ups with weaker filter flow. You want fresh water and the Co2 you’re adding to reach every corner of the tank so all plants can benefit. Adjust your filter flow or consider a small if you suspect there are any dead spots.

Do you use any type fertilizer? If you do so how often

 

Agree with above. If phosphate is the issue a phosphate filter will help. What ferts are you usuing?
What are the specs on your light, particularly you color temperature? Also what is your lighting schedule? Any sun hitting the tank from a nearby window? Last question, what is your nitrate level, both tap and tank?

 

Since getting Nerite snails I have never had an algae problem. I actually have to feed my pleco because there is nothing for him to eat. I used to have that black alga over my plants on every surface, and they ate it all up. But I also live in a desert area where there are fewer algae spores floating through the air. Algae spores are all over, and it seems to me that the way to keep them out of your aquarium is to keep them out of your house. This means aquarium lids, possibly window or vent filter cloth. That sounds expensive.

 

Since getting Nerite snails I have never had an algae problem. I actually have to feed my pleco because there is nothing for him to eat. I used to have that black alga over my plants on every surface, and they ate it all up. But I also live in a desert area where there are fewer algae spores floating through the air. Algae spores are all over, and it seems to me that the way to keep them out of your aquarium is to keep them out of your house. This means aquarium lids, possibly window or vent filter cloth. That sounds expensive.

What you had sounds like diatom algae. That's part of new tank syndrome. Diatoms don't last, once the extra silicates are gone diatom algae stops.

 

If you have high levels of phosphates and that's the cause of the algae then that will probably help a lot. I have to assume you aren't fertilizing though.

How did you add a bit of co2? All the co2 is really going to do is allow plants to uptake more nutrients and lighting. One part of your triangle is definitely way off and from the sound of it the culprit os your fert regimen.

(see reply below)

Hello
Battling algae could be very hard unfortunately RO unit is one of the option to go rather you like it or not.
View attachment 487344
The phosphates filter remover will help to lower phosphates level (YES been there done it) generally most 3-pack will treats 27 gallons of water and will have to be replaced every month or so.. 3-pack will cost you average $14.00 a month x12 $168.00 a year, If your tank is bigger than 27.gal you will either need more packs keep it mind you not removing phosphates level you are only controlling situation once you stop than algae will return. (For money you gonna spent on any type filters over period time RO Unit still be better option to start)
The next issues you facing is caused by an underlying imbalance, You can solve this by adjusting a few important factors in your aquarium. Since you already start working with Co2. it’s a great way to balance things out. When done right, added will help your plants reach their full potential and easily out compete algae.
Lessen your lighting. Plants use Co2 when the light is on. If your are on for long periods, they will use more. If you lessen the amount of light, they will use less Co2 and other nutrients. More Co2 will be available for each plant during the growing time and algae won’t get the chance to take over. 8 hours of light is your max with regular strength. If things are really bad, try cutting your lighting cycle in half. A can help if you’re not present to turn the lights on and off at the right times.
Look at your Circulation. This is an issue in larger tanks and in set-ups with weaker filter flow. You want fresh water and the Co2 you’re adding to reach every corner of the tank so all plants can benefit. Adjust your filter flow or consider a small if you suspect there are any dead spots.

Do you use any type fertilizer? If you do so how often

I'm using a regulator with solenoid that sends the CO2 to a diffuser on the left side of my 29G tank, and a drop checker, opposite the diffuser, on the right side of the tank. It's pushing ~2.4 drops per sec and keeps the drop checker between med green and light green from late morning until late afternoon. My light and CO2 are on the same timer switch and are on for about 10 hrs a day (9am - 7pm). I've got Flourish Tabs in the sand and I used to add Flourish Excel but I haven't added any in several months because it didn't appear to be having any effect, but that was before the CO2 so maybe I should start dosing the Excel again. (?) I think the flow throughout the tank is ok with the AquaClear 50 HOB filter rated at 200 GPH. I also use airstones to try and get some circulation going opposite the filter. Although my Amazon Swords only move very little I can see the tiny CO2 bubbles are carried through the whole tank. I do like the idea of a powerhead though, I might get one later. An RO unit for my kitchen sink would be nice, but I already have a drinking-water filter unit installed. ZigI Zig you bring up a good point about the long term costs of the phosphate aquarium filters vs the RO unit. I'm definitely going to compare the costs of the RO unit to the phosphate filter costs for my case.

Agree with above. If phosphate is the issue a phosphate filter will help. What ferts are you usuing?
What are the specs on your light, particularly you color temperature? Also what is your lighting schedule? Any sun hitting the tank from a nearby window? Last question, what is your nitrate level, both tap and tank?

This is the light I'm using: Remote Control LED Light HI LUMEN Aquarium Planted 12 to 80 Inch Marine FOWLR the 30 inch, 4680 lumen. I normally just use the "Plant" or "Max" presets on the remote. It sits about 4 inches above the tank, over a glass lid. The substrate surface is about 16 inches below the level of the lid. No direct sunlight going into the tank. I mentioned the lighting schedule and ferts in the response above. My nitrate from tap is essentially 0 ppm, and this morning the tank read ~15 ppm.

Since getting Nerite snails I have never had an algae problem. I actually have to feed my pleco because there is nothing for him to eat. I used to have that black alga over my plants on every surface, and they ate it all up. But I also live in a desert area where there are fewer algae spores floating through the air. Algae spores are all over, and it seems to me that the way to keep them out of your aquarium is to keep them out of your house. This means aquarium lids, possibly window or vent filter cloth. That sounds expensive.

I have 3 nerite snails and I can tell they're trying to keep up with the algae because they leave a defined trail of clean glass through the algae! I'm sure they're all well fed. I use a glass lid to cover the tank for about a month now. It also gets a thin layer of algae under it and I have to keep it clean regularly.

 

Then it definitely sounds like an excess of nutrients somewhere. Sounds like you're on the right track!

 

(see reply below)



I'm using a regulator with solenoid that sends the CO2 to a diffuser on the left side of my 29G tank, and a drop checker, opposite the diffuser, on the right side of the tank. It's pushing ~2.4 drops per sec and keeps the drop checker between med green and light green from late morning until late afternoon. My light and CO2 are on the same timer switch and are on for about 10 hrs a day (9am - 7pm). I've got Flourish Tabs in the sand and I used to add Flourish Excel but I haven't added any in several months because it didn't appear to be having any effect, but that was before the CO2 so maybe I should start dosing the Excel again. (?) I think the flow throughout the tank is ok with the AquaClear 50 HOB filter rated at 200 GPH. I also use airstones to try and get some circulation going opposite the filter. Although my Amazon Swords only move very little I can see the tiny CO2 bubbles are carried through the whole tank. I do like the idea of a powerhead though, I might get one later. An RO unit for my kitchen sink would be nice, but I already have a drinking-water filter unit installed. ZigI Zig you bring up a good point about the long term costs of the phosphate aquarium filters vs the RO unit. I'm definitely going to compare the costs of the RO unit to the phosphate filter costs for my case.





This is the light I'm using: Remote Control LED Light HI LUMEN Aquarium Planted 12 to 80 Inch Marine FOWLR the 30 inch, 4680 lumen. I normally just use the "Plant" or "Max" presets on the remote. It sits about 4 inches above the tank, over a glass lid. The substrate surface is about 16 inches below the level of the lid. No direct sunlight going into the tank. I mentioned the lighting schedule and ferts in the response above. My nitrate from tap is essentially 0 ppm, and this morning the tank read ~15 ppm.




I have 3 nerite snails and I can tell they're trying to keep up with the algae because they leave a defined trail of clean glass through the algae! I'm sure they're all well fed. I use a glass lid to cover the tank for about a month now. It also gets a thin layer of algae under it and I have to keep it clean regularly.

10 hours is quite a bit ,so is a high lumen light on a tank that's only 16 inches deep. I have to say I'm positive the light is your issue.

 

10 hours is quite a bit ,so is a high lumen light on a tank that's only 16 inches deep. I have to say I'm positive the light is your issue.

Missed those points. I agree with dave here. Cut lighting back to 7 hours. The co2 should come on just before the lights and go off about an hour before the lights typically. If that doesn't work its more likely a nutrient issue.

 

10 hours is quite a bit ,so is a high lumen light on a tank that's only 16 inches deep. I have to say I'm positive the light is your issue.

Missed those points. I agree with dave here. Cut lighting back to 7 hours. The co2 should come on just before the lights and go off about an hour before the lights typically. If that doesn't work its more likely a nutrient issue.

I had always thought the light output was on the low end for a planted tank. I read up on the topic before buying the light and came across "par this - and - par - that, depth," etc. Honestly I don't really have anything else to compare to though and I'm still learning about the hobby. I'll cut the lighting back to 7 hours. As for the CO2 timing, it's on the same timer as the lights so they come on together and I can't adjust the outlets individually.

Also, the light has a 24 hr function that will gradually increase and decrease the output throughout a 24 hr period, but the light never goes completely off. I tried using that setting when I first got the light but it would stay on a low/reddish glow late into the night before turning all blue in the middle of the night for a few hours. Then it would go back to low/reddish glow around 3am. However, the daytime output from about 8am - 7pm is not at the max output. Only a couple of hours in the middle of the day are at max. I can't change the programming either. I read that fish needed some period of complete darkness to rest so I just have it on the timer now. What do you all recommend: leaving it on a 7 hour on/off timer at lower output than now or using the 24 hr function since most of the daytime light output is well under the max output setting?

 

7 hour on off at a lower output will help. It's ok to leave your co2 on the same timer. That's what I do. You really do want it on and off an hour before lighting, but don't worry about that for now. I would start with a 3-4 day black out then get the timer to a 7 hour schedule at a lower intensity. That way you can get a head start at killing off the algae.

 

(update) I tested for phosphates in the tank and from the tap. Both read zero. I've read that it's possible there might actually be phosphates in the water but the algae could be eating it up and giving me a reading of zero. I don't think it's a phosphate problem though, just a lighting and previous over-feeding regimen. I was also going over some details with my LFS today, who I find to be quite knowledgeable, and showed them a pic of what my tank looked like at its worse (attached). They identified the coating on the driftwood as cyanobacteria and recommended I remove the hardscape and brush all of the slime off and spray down with a high concentration of Flourish Excel. They also recommended I "inject" the sand substrate with the Excel as well. So looks like I've got my work cut out for me, but I'm confident that reducing the light and careful feeding will keep me on the right track for the long run. I'm hoping I can get the hang of maintaining a neat and tidy tank so I won't be creating more work for me when the time comes to replace this 29 gal with a larger one. A friend of mine found a ~50-ish gal bowfront and might give it to me since he has no room for it. Keeping my fingers crossed that it holds water.

 

How do you feel about ramshorn snails? They'll eat all kinds of algae, including cyanobacteria.

 

How do you feel about ramshorn snails? They'll eat all kinds of algae, including cyanobacteria.

I'm hesitant on the ramshorn, mostly because I've read that they reproduce quickly and I'd rather not exchange one problem for another. Although I suppose I could get an assassin snail or two if the ramshorn get out of control. I'll save that idea as a last resort though. For now I'll just continue with reduced feeding and light, along with spot cleaning and dosing with Excel, and blackout if it comes to that.

I also came across a product called "Chemi-Clean"
Would you happen to have any experience with it?

 

I'm hesitant on the ramshorn, mostly because I've read that they reproduce quickly and I'd rather not exchange one problem for another. Although I suppose I could get an assassin snail or two if the ramshorn get out of control. I'll save that idea as a last resort though. For now I'll just continue with reduced feeding and light, along with spot cleaning and dosing with Excel, and blackout if it comes to that.

I also came across a product called "Chemi-Clean"
Would you happen to have any experience with it?

No I don't sorry. I had the same issue in my 10 and solved it with ramshorns.

 

No I don't sorry. I had the same issue in my 10 and solved it with ramshorns.

Did you have any issues with the ramshorn population? How did you keep it in check?

 

Did you have any issues with the ramshorn population? How did you keep it in check?

That can be a major issue. I keep them in my 10 gallon. Just to clean up plants when needed. When the population gets too big I put 20-30 of them in the 125 and the cichlids (acaras and rams) eat them. There's quite a few species that will eat them. Puffers, most larger loaches, your larger cichlids to name a few. People always recommend assassin snails, but they can't keep up with a large break out.

 

I've ordered this product:



It's labeled as a "stain remover" but reviews state that it effectively gets rid of the bacteria, so I'll give it a shot. Since this topic is changing I'll post updates under a new thread in an appropriate section, hopefully sooner than later.

Thank you everyone for the knowledge and advice.