Is This Correct? Cycling Information.

Alright. So, I’m just about done with my cycle. My nitrites hit 0 yesterday with 0 ammonia and about 80 nitrates.

So, I dosed with ammonia again at around 9am yesterday bringing my ammonia up to 4ppm(meant to only do 2ppm oops) and my nitrites shot up to about 2-5ppm. Today I just took a testing of everything. 0 ammonia, 0 nitrates, 40-80 nitrates.

Will the nitrites spike every time I dose ammonia or will it stay at 0 if it’s cycled? Obviously once I have fish I won’t be adding ammonia, but I couldn’t find this answer anywhere. Thanks for all the help!!

 

I'm not sure, but I do know its supposed to go from ammonia to nitrates in 24 hours, so I would assume if it is doing it in 24 hours then you are fine

 

I'm not sure, but I do know its supposed to go from ammonia to nitrates in 24 hours, so I would assume if it is doing it in 24 hours then you are fine

Cool, that’s what it’s doing then. It hits 0,0, and then a little bit high of nitrates.

When I add my betta and shrimp, what’s going to happen to the bacteria? I know their bio load is small so will the bacteria die down?

 

Cool, that’s what it’s doing then. It hits 0,0, and then a little bit high of nitrates.

When I add my betta and shrimp, what’s going to happen to the bacteria? I know their bio load is small so will the bacteria die down?

It will adjust to whatever bioload you have. You just need to make sure you keep adding ammonia until they're in there

 

It will adjust to whatever bioload you have. You just need to make sure you keep adding ammonia until they're in there

Oh yeah, I already dosed to 2ppm ammonia. I just don’t know how to tell that it’s 100% ready. How do I get the nitrates down to 20 or less?

 

Oh yeah, I already dosed to 2ppm ammonia. I just don’t know how to tell that it’s 100% ready. How do I get the nitrates down to 20 or less?

A large water change

 

To get your nitrates down you do a water change. You may have gotten the nitrite spike because you double dosed your ammonia. Your bacteria colony was doing fine with the regular dose and had grown to the size needed to handle that level of ammonia....that accidental double dose was more than your colony could immediately deal with so you saw a nitrite spike. The fact that it went down within 24 hours is good and I would say that you should water change to reduce the nitrates.

 

A large water change

Ok. I’ll see if the nitrites cycle in 24 hours again and then I’ll do a water change.

 

To get your nitrates down you do a water change. You may have gotten the nitrite spike because you double dosed your ammonia. Your bacteria colony was doing fine with the regular dose and had grown to the size needed to handle that level of ammonia....that accidental double dose was more than your colony could immediately deal with so you saw a nitrite spike. The fact that it went down within 24 hours is good and I would say that you should water change to reduce the nitrates.

Ohhh. That makes a lot of sense. I guess it won’t hurt to do a water change right now then.

 

Will the nitrites spike every time I dose ammonia or will it stay at 0 if it’s cycled?

There's generally a small-ish spike within the 24 hours if you've dosed ammonia, but assuming the cycle is actually complete, those nitrites will be oxidised to nitrates at the end of 24 hours.

I know their bio load is small so will the bacteria die down?

Bacteria are quite resilient and they won't die off immediately in the absence of ammonia. They'll likely enter dormancy for several months and the bacteria colony will gradually adjust to the bioload of the stocked fish.

How do I get the down to 20 or less?

As ValerieAdams mentioned, water change is the easiest. But I think you mentioned in other threads that you have high nitrates in your water?

The easiest (but slightly expensive) way is to get a reverse osmosis unit for your tap water. You'll need to add a GK/KH supplement to ensure the total dissolved solids is appropriate for your tank.

A more difficult way (which might end up being just as expensive) is to use certain filter media to try and promote the growth of denitrifying bacteria which converts nitrate to nitrogen gas. SeaChem Matrix claims to do this. It might be worth researching more, and from what I remember reading, marine aquariums tend to utilise strategies for denitrifying bacteria.

 

There's generally a small-ish spike within the 24 hours if you've dosed ammonia, but assuming the cycle is actually complete, those nitrites will be oxidised to nitrates at the end of 24 hours.



Bacteria are quite resilient and they won't die off immediately in the absence of ammonia. They'll likely enter dormancy for several months and the bacteria colony will gradually adjust to the bioload of the stocked fish.



As ValerieAdams mentioned, water change is the easiest. But I think you mentioned in other threads that you have high nitrates in your water?

The easiest (but slightly expensive) way is to get a reverse osmosis unit for your tap water. You'll need to add a GK/KH supplement to ensure the total dissolved solids is appropriate for your tank.

A more difficult way (which might end up being just as expensive) is to use certain filter media to try and promote the growth of denitrifying bacteria which converts nitrate to nitrogen gas. SeaChem Matrix claims to do this. It might be worth researching more, and from what I remember reading, marine aquariums tend to utilise strategies for denitrifying bacteria.

My tap has .25 ammonia and 0 nitrites and nitrates. I am lucky there. I’ll do a water change and see if the nitrates stay low. I really hope this is all I need. I started the cycle 3 weeks ago!

 

Nitrates don't really stay low. That is why you do periodic water changes. Water changes are primarily done because of nitrites. I am running Seachem Matrix in my main tank and it is a planted tank. I don't have to water change all that often....but I DO still need to do them. That is the only way to keep nitrates low. As long as you have a cycle going you are going to see rising nitrates.

 

Nitrates don't really stay low. That is why you do periodic water changes. Water changes are primarily done because of nitrites. I am running Seachem Matrix in my main tank and it is a planted tank. I don't have to water change all that often....but I DO still need to do them. That is the only way to keep nitrates low. As long as you have a cycle going you are going to see rising nitrates.

I totally had a brain fart there. You are totally right. Hahah. I don’t know why I didn’t think about that. I do have a pretty heavily planted tank and I’m pretty sure you’re the one who told me that plants help just a bit in keeping nitrates lower.

What is Seachem Matrix? A liquid?

 

Matrix is a filter media. They claim to be able to house anaerobic bacteria that breaks down nitrates. I don't know for sure that it works that way.....but I do know that I have a heavily stocked tank and my nitrates climb pretty slowly.

I don't mind water changes though. Gives me a chance to maintain the aquascape and plants. I am 5'2 and have short arms. lol If I try to deal with that stuff in a full tank I end up wet from practically the waist up.

 

A lot of people running with planted tanks use the Estimative Index (EI) method of dosing ferts, developed by Tom Barr. An important part of the method is 50% water changes every week in order to minimise the build-up of excess ferts.

So in a lot of ways, nitrate build up is probably of little concern for a lot of people.

 

Matrix is a filter media. They claim to be able to house anaerobic bacteria that breaks down nitrates. I don't know for sure that it works that way.....but I do know that I have a heavily stocked tank and my nitrates climb pretty slowly.

I don't mind water changes though. Gives me a chance to maintain the aquascape and plants. I am 5'2 and have short arms. lol If I try to deal with that stuff in a full tank I end up wet from practically the waist up.

A lot of people running with planted tanks use the Estimative Index (EI) method of dosing ferts, developed by Tom Barr. An important part of the method is 50% water changes every week in order to minimise the build-up of excess ferts.

So in a lot of ways, nitrate build up is probably of little concern for a lot of people.

Has anyone used the Seachem Purigen? I bought that and some bio rings. The purigen says it’s for 100 gallons. Does that mean it is for a 100 gallon tank or that it cleans about 100 gallons?

 

Has anyone used the Seachem Purigen? I bought that and some bio rings. The purigen says it’s for 100 gallons. Does that mean it is for a 100 gallon tank or that it cleans about 100 gallons?

I run purigen in my top tray. I have a 45g tank, with a sunsun 704b. 2 trays of matrix, 1 of biorings, 1 sponge tray, and the top tray with 2 of the small bags of purigen. I am intentionally "over filtered" because I often overstock and I would rather have the extra filter ability and never need it then need it and not have it. I think it is for a 100 gallon tank.....because many filters are going to be turning over hundreds of gallons per hour. You would have to recharge or replace every hour. I could be wrong though.

 

I run purigen in my top tray. I have a 45g tank, with a sunsun 704b. 2 trays of matrix, 1 of biorings, 1 sponge tray, and the top tray with 2 of the small bags of purigen. I am intentionally "over filtered" because I often overstock and I would rather have the extra filter ability and never need it then need it and not have it. I think it is for a 100 gallon tank.....because many filters are going to be turning over hundreds of gallons per hour. You would have to recharge or replace every hour. I could be wrong though.

Dang. They fidn’t have anything smaller. Could I still use it in my filter? If anything, I might just sew it into two bags and put one in each tank if it’s safe.

 

It is totally fine to use it as is. No need to open it up or anything. It is good "up to" 100g. So use in smaller tanks should be fine. It doesn't add anything to the water, it works similar to carbon to remove things from the water. If I have that totally wrong I am sure someone will chime in to correct me.

 

I use Purigen in my 20 gallon to control tannins as I got tired of having a dark water tank after several years. It's the 100 gallon bags and I still have to recharge every week or two! It all depends on how much stuff it has to remove.

 

I use Purigen in my 20 gallon to control tannins as I got tired of having a dark water tank after several years. It's the 100 gallon bags and I still have to recharge every week or two! It all depends on how much stuff it has to remove.

Ok. Well, it was pretty cheap so I’ll try it out. I have a 5.5g and a 10 gallon since I’m in a little apartment. I think I’ll really only need it for the 10g.