Is There A Way To Save My Betta?

Discussion in 'Freshwater Fish Disease' started by BentleyBetta, Apr 23, 2019.

  1. BentleyBettaNew MemberMember

    My Betta is losing scales and is pale and looking awful :( he’s in a 2.2 gallon hospital tank right now with aquarium salt and I’m currently treating with Kordon Rapid Cure. I tried Pimafix and it didn’t work. I just can’t figure out what is wrong with him and I really don’t want him to die. Any ideas? Thank you in advance.

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  2. RtessyFishlore VIPMember

    He's got stress stripes, and bad ones. Something is making him seriously wig out.
    How much salt did you add? Bettas can be very sensitive to salt, I'd do a 50% water change.
    Please list:
    Tank mates
    All medications currently in use

  3. BentleyBettaNew MemberMember

    I added 1 tsp per gallon. I will do a water change when I get home from work and stop adding salt I hope that could help.
    I don’t have the specific numbers on his ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates, but I did have his water tested at the pet store and tested his water myself. The pet story said the water looked good and my tests looked good too (I’ll post pics when I’m home and can re test) however, I have a regulating heater that keeps it at 78, I used to keep it at 80.

    He has no tank mates, but two Java ferns in his tank. I’m currently using Bettafix, though I’m gonna stop and not dose him again. I have ordered some erythromycin to try. Sound like a good idea? I recently moved him from his hospital tank back into his 5 gallon after I had the water tested and they said it was fine. Now I want to change the water bc I’m afraid I’m hurting him with the salt!

    Could that explain the scales falling off and white/silver patches underneath? I was fearing he had advanced body rot, which is why I ordered the medicine.

    Thank you for your help
  4. RtessyFishlore VIPMember

    Ok, just a word to the wise, pet stores lie all the time and just say the water looks "good" or "fine" even when it's toxic. Exact values will help, but for now, we will make due.
    I'd stop adding the salt all together, it is an irritant so it won't help if it hasn't already and will likely worsen things. Do a 50% change and only add water conditioner to the new water.
    Bettafix is kinda snake oil, it's a watered down version of melafix and pimafix, and only works on very very weak infections.
    The Erythromycin is a good medication, it should help with his body rot. He's definitely not too far gone, he's got a good chance, but the stress stripes really concern me here.
  5. BentleyBettaNew MemberMember

    Thank you for giving me hope! I’m home and just did a 50% water change. He’s being active so I’m happy to see that. I vacuumed his gravel for an added touch, though he’s only been in there a day or two. I didn’t use any salt or Bettafix. I will wait for the erythromycin to arrive tomorrow.

    My test strips only show colors, is it because I bought the $10 ones and not the master test kit? I am trying to keep the light level low and leave him alone to let him just try to relax. The spots where he is missing scales are now showing white dots, maybe just other flesh falling off? I’m anxious for the medicine to get here, but am so glad to hear he doesn’t look too far gone. I hope I can fix him :( thank you for the advice. I’m brand new to the aquarium hobby and don’t want to torture my poor fish.

    It might be helpful to add that I was using a biological booster as well. Could that be producing too much bacteria that is hurting him? I didn’t use it with this new water change, only water conditioner. My tank is cycled very well (or so I thought, now I’m finding out who I thought were my allies maybe not be so trustworthy), but I was also concerned about the water hardness - I live in California where all of the water is hard. I ordered water softening pillows with the medicine. Is the water hardness a big factor, if one at all? It shows up the darkest color, as “very hard” on every test.
  6. RtessyFishlore VIPMember

    I'm afraid you have been given bad advice, particularly in terms of cycling.
    Can you post a picture of the results? If you have any ammonia or nitrite, the tank isn't cycled, and it will affect your fish through poisoning. I'd read up a good bit more on the nitrogen cycle, I can help if you have any questions :)
    Water hardness is nothing to be concerned about with domesticated bettas. If you had a wild, then yes, I'd be a little concerned, but the domesticated ones are very adaptable to hard water.
    The bacteria that infects flesh and the bacteria in biological boosters are very different. The bacteria in the booster feed on ammonia and nitrite and convert them into nitrate, which is much less toxic and safe up to 40ppm, so those didn't affect your little guy.
    From my experience body rot varies a lot, here's one guy that got it real bad but recovered fine, first I used Erythromycin then kanaplex, and bam, he's better. He was all blue, the white around the eye and on the back are the rot, and now he's back to all blue

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  7. BentleyBettaNew MemberMember

    Here are my test results from this morning. I don’t have an ammonia test but I will grab some if need be. I left the tank set up for about 2 weeks with a used filter and haven’t been getting any nitrite readings unless that bit of yellow is a sign of something.
    Nice to see he’s all better! Fingers crossed I can do the same for my Bentley. :) maybe I should pick up some Kanaplex

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  8. BentleyBettaNew MemberMember

    Now a small nitrate reading

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  9. RtessyFishlore VIPMember

    Alright, good! Nitrates mean you're almost done with the cycle.
    I'd only get kanaplex if the Erythromycin doesn't work. The bad news is that one or both could crash your cycle. I've have Erythromycin crash mine, a lot of people have had kanaplex crash theirs. I'm not sure what factors affect it...
    Also, be sure to remove any carbon from your filter, it will make the medication ineffective