Info Before You Buy Flourish And Ferts In General

-Mak-

Member
I'd like to start off by saying Seachem is a very good, very reputable company that contributes a lot to this hobby. This post is not intended to criticize them or say they're a bad company or tell everybody to stop buying their fertilizers. It's purpose is to simply make people aware of what is in the ferts they buy. Everything stated here is based off my own opinion and research of plant nutrient requirements. Seachem, please don't sue me lol

So: Plant fertilizers can bring a lot of confusion to the planted tank beginner. So can lighting and CO2, but I think ferts get a little less attention than those two. The reason I am focusing on flourish here is because commonly people recommend it to others willy nilly without considering their tank conditions.

Plants need two types of nutrients: macros and micros.
Macros are required in higher amounts than micros, hence the names.

Macros consist of:

Nitrogen (N)
Phosphorus (P)
Potassium (K)
Magnesium
Sulphur
Calcium

Micros consist of:

Iron
Manganese
Chlorine
Zinc
Copper
Boron
Cobalt
Molybdenum
(Others, but in very small amounts, likely already in your tap water)


The main problem one could possibly run across with using only flourish and flourish root tabs, and even flourite substrate, is that none contain high amounts of macro nutrients, especially the main three NPK macros (nitrogen, phosphate, and potassium, aka NPK). They have nice amounts of micro nutrients, and if you compare the percentage of macros to micros it'll seem like they are similar. Yes, they are similar, and that is a problem for some because macros are required in much higher amounts than micros.


Right off seachem's website:

Flourish analysis:

Screen Shot 2017-04-01 at 3.46.03 PM.png


Flourish tabs analysis:

Screen Shot 2017-04-01 at 3.46.57 PM.png


Flourite analysis:

Screen Shot 2017-04-01 at 3.48.40 PM.png


As you can see, flourish has 0.007% nitrogen and 0.01% phosphate, which is virtually nothing compared to what plants can and will take up. It has slightly higher amounts of potassium at 0.37%. Flourish tabs have more of each, though all under 0.3%, but is slow releasing and still does not nearly total to what plants could use. Flourite has no macros except magnesium.

Now, seachem does make nitrogen, phosphate, and potassium ferts in higher amounts, all in separate bottles. This can be one way to cover all of your important NPK nutients. Here is seachem's dosing chart for all of their plant products:


And in fact, upon emailing Seachem to ask about flourish, the representative told me that flourish is not actually meant to be a complete supplement, but to provide a baseline of nutrients in base levels. They explained that, due to different levels in different aquariums, a fertilizer that is "all in one" could result in difficiencies in one or more nutrient in the NPK ratio (IMO this can easily be avoided with the EI method, see bottom of this post for more info). They added that for proper NPK dosing, they have the separate bottles like I mentioned.


NPK dosing is sometimes falsely believed to cause algae. There seems to be the belief that fish will supply all that the plants need, and adding too much nitrate and phosphate will cause algae. A little bit of research into this reveals that this is untrue. If you have a balanced tank, extra ferts (within reason) will not cause algae, which is precisely the reason why there are not algae blooms happening everyday in aquariums that receive daily ferts in high amounts. It also has to do with the life stages of algae and how different stages require different nutrients. A lot of the time, the reason for algae is not excess nutrients, but too much light, too little CO2, and in fact too little nutrients. Basically, give your plants all they need to outcompete algae and let light be the only limiting factor. If one uses extra ferts via the EI method, a 50% water change at the end of the week is done to "reset" the nutrients and prevent an overload. You can get a little more in depth and analyze the ratio of various nutrients to each other, but giving more than enough to eliminate possibility of deficiency is the gist of it. To do the opposite and limit nitrates and phosphates is harmful. You can never eliminate all the nutrients in a tank. By the time you are able to starve algae of all nutrients, your plants are long gone.

In low light tanks plants do not grow as much, and therefore fish can sometimes supply all that is needed. However, I am still seeing people asking about why their plants have deficencies in their low tech tanks. Unfortunately, most people cannot easily measure how much of the other nutrients are in their water, so we must solely go off nitrogen in this case, and liquid tests aren't extremely accurate either. (API has a phosphate test, whether it is worth it or not is up to you). But deficiency is not hard to spot, if your plants have yellow, brown, or stunted growth, compare your plants to a dificiency chart to see if they are lacking nutrients.

Another important consideration when choosing a fertilizer is the growth rate of plants. Light dictates that to a large extent, but even in a low light tank there can be a large range of growth rate. For example, anubias and most hygrophilas are considered low light plants, yet hygrophilas have the ability to grow much faster than anubias. They will need more nutrients.

Can you get away with using only flourish in a less than fully stocked or a medium to high light tank? In my opinion, not without the plants eventually developing deficiencies and encountering slow/weak growth. This will widely vary on many other things such as substrate choice and even water hardness, so the key here is knowing what your tank's conditions are and researching the fertilizer that will best suit your plants' needs. For people afraid of poisoning your fish or adding too many "chemicals," there isn't anything to worry about. The compounds we add are just minerals and metals, some of which can be found in low amounts in tap water. You'd have to actively try to overdose most ferts to harm fish, and as far as I know, the only fert that can kill fish is liquid CO2, which is made from an industrial chemical.

To sum it up, flourish is an excellent source of micros and has a large variety of nutrients, just not macros in high amounts. It might be enough for you if you have a low tech tank and if you're sure that your fish can cover the rest. If you see macro deficiencies, or your plants are not growing as much as they should be compared to your light and CO2 levels, you might want to consider additional fertilizer as needed. If things are working well with flourish, great, by no means do you need to run out and buy some more ferts.
For people who have not yet bought any fertilizer, do lots and lots and lots of research on what exactly you are trying to acheive in your tank and what fertilizer will best help you get there. Read the nutrient analysis of whatever fert you're about to buy so you know what you're getting.


As for me, I did buy a bottle of flourish to use in my own tank. I didn't see any difference from when I was going without it and my plants started to show magnesium deficiency. I switched to Nilocg's Thrive, which is designed to be an EI method liquid fert, and also their GH booster to add extra magnesium.
Plant growth picked up, and the deficiency went away. Thrive lists an analysis of:
N 3%, P 0.8%, K 9.4%, Fe 0.47%, Mg 0.062%, Cu 0.009%, B 0.023%, Co, 0.0002%, Mn 0.06%, Mo 0.0018%, Zn 0.016%.
Here the NPKs come in much higher amounts than the micros. You probably don't need this "intense" of a fert in a low tech tank, in moderation it can't hurt though.


The issue with ALL liquid fertilizers is you cannot change the composition of the fertilizer to better suit your tank's needs. That's where dry ferts are useful (and much cheaper). However, for the majority of people who are not running aquariums with particular needs, liquid fertilizers will do the job.


EI reseach if you're interested:

EI dosing by Tom Barr
The Estimative Index of Dosing, or No Need for Test Kits - Aquarium Plants - Barr Report

Non CO2 methods by Tom Barr



Edit on January 8th, 2018: I've made a short video analysis of some of the common fertilizers on the market, including some mentioned in this post. Hopefully if you're still unsure about what to buy, this will help summarize the nutrient content of each fert.

 

Tanks and Plants

Member
I think you forgot to mention a very important part of EI dosing. I like EI dosing and use it myself, but to me the biggest draw back is that weekly water changes of 50% is recommended and if you have multiple tanks that can add up to a lot of water.

As quoted by Tom Barr:

"There is no hard and fast rule here when dosing or doing 50% weekly water changes. This method can be applied to water changes once a month or once every two weeks, better more consistent results will be obtained when doing 50% weekly water changes, but a well run tank can go longer without a water change. The aquarist can note plant health and dose slightly less as they gain experience of their individual tank's needs. As they get a feel for the dosing they can tailor the tank's needs further."

I also have used Seachems dosing chart and it worked out for me as well. And the benefits is that you don't have to do 50%water changes. I did weekly 20-30% water changes and I didn't have any algae growth.
BUT the drawback to this is that you need to buy each single bottle of their Ferts and it does cost some $$$.

Overall Mak this was a VERY informative thread and I could not have done better myself.
This thread will help a lot of people especially people who want to understand Planted tanks a little more.

Thanks!
 
  • Thread Starter

-Mak-

Member
Tanks and Plants said:
I think you forgot to mention a very important part of EI dosing. I like EI dosing and use it myself, but to me the biggest draw back is that weekly water changes of 50% is recommended and if you have multiple tanks that can add up to a lot of water.

As quoted by Tom Barr:

"There is no hard and fast rule here when dosing or doing 50% weekly water changes. This method can be applied to water changes once a month or once every two weeks, better more consistent results will be obtained when doing 50% weekly water changes, but a well run tank can go longer without a water change. The aquarist can note plant health and dose slightly less as they gain experience of their individual tank's needs. As they get a feel for the dosing they can tailor the tank's needs further."

I also have used Seachems dosing chart and it worked out for me as well. And the benefits is that you don't have to do 50%water changes. I did weekly 20-30% water changes and I didn't have any algae growth.
BUT the drawback to this is that you need to buy each single bottle of their Ferts and it does cost some $$$.

Overall Mak this was a VERY informative thread and I could not have done better myself.
This thread will help a lot of people especially people who want to understand Planted tanks a little more.

Thanks!
Thank you for the reminder! A lot of people do 50% water changes each week, especially in small tanks planted or not, but yep that's an important part of EI, I'll add that

I've seen the dosing chart, and I like how they include all of their products. My tanks are very small so I can't see myself ever even using up each bottle of their ferts, but for large tanks it's very helpful. Though dry ferts are so much cheaper for large tanks in the long run.

Thanks again!
 

Chris 23

Member
Nice this was very helpful
 

jenmur

Member
I like this. I am starting to do research for my community tank I'm gonna set up because I want live plants
 
  • Thread Starter

-Mak-

Member
Chris 23 said:
Nice this was very helpful
Glad to help!

jenmur said:
I like this. I am starting to do research for my community tank I'm gonna set up because I want live plants
Live plants are great. The wealth of information out there can sometimes overwhelm you, but my biggest tip is to do tons of research before you invest in anything. Do research, and when you think you can't possibly research anything else, research some more. I think I could have saved myself quite a bit of money if I had done that the first time around
 

jenmur

Member
-Mak- said:
Glad to help!


Live plants are great. The wealth of information out there can sometimes overwhelm you, but my biggest tip is to do tons of research before you invest in anything. Do research, and when you think you can't possibly research anything else, research some more. I think I could have saved myself quite a bit of money if I had done that the first time around
I'm trying to! I just posted in here asking for help about fertilizers and things I've heard. I mean I have an Anubias in my betta tank but he takes care of that. But I know I gotta help my fish out in the community tank!
 

Cricket lynn mclean

Member
Do you have a post that expands on dry ferts?
 

toolman

Member
Another option for planted tanks is pps-pro. While far from an expert I use DIY pps-pro from NilocG, comes premeasured in a packet for macros and one for micros. Your first order there's a option for two bottles and you just mix the packets with 500ml ro water.

Anyone interested in planted tanks I would recommend checking out their website, lots of good information on the different methods and their products.
 

jenmur

Member
toolman said:
Another option for planted tanks is pps-pro. While far from an expert I use DIY pps-pro from NilocG, comes premeasured in a packet for macros and one for micros. Your first order there's a option for two bottles and you just mix the packets with 500ml ro water.

Anyone interested in planted tanks I would recommend checking out their website, lots of good information on the different methods and their products.
Do you have to use RO water? I just look up NilocG on google?
 

toolman

Member
Bottle says ro or dI water, just buy a gallon of distilled water you only need 500ml per bottle and it will last months. I use it in all 4 if my tanks 75,55,40, & 10,that's 19 ml per day.Lol
 
  • Thread Starter

-Mak-

Member
Cricket lynn mclean said:
Do you have a post that expands on dry ferts?
No, sorry! I don't think I have enough knowledge on dry ferts to write a guide yet, but I'm sure many others on here do.
 

Cricket lynn mclean

Member
-Mak- said:
No, sorry! I don't think I have enough knowledge on dry ferts to write a guide yet, but I'm sure many others on here do.
Thanks mak
toolman you?
Just saw you posted above

-Mak- said:
N 3%, P 0.8%, K 9.4%, Fe 0.47%, Mg 0.062%, Cu 0.009%, B 0.023%, Co, 0.0002%, Mn 0.06%, Mo 0.0018%, Zn 0.016%.
How often are you dosing thrive? Also what does that percentage mean? Is it like vitamins? a percent of the daily recommended?
 

jenmur

Member
toolman said:
Bottle says ro or dI water, just buy a gallon of distilled water you only need 500ml per bottle and it will last months. I use it in all 4 if my tanks 75,55,40, & 10,that's 19 ml per day.Lol
Ah ok. Thanks
 

Discusluv

Member
toolman said:
Another option for planted tanks is pps-pro. While far from an expert I use DIY pps-pro from NilocG, comes premeasured in a packet for macros and one for micros. Your first order there's a option for two bottles and you just mix the packets with 500ml ro water.

Anyone interested in planted tanks I would recommend checking out their website, lots of good information on the different methods and their products.
I think I will look into this. After dosing for a month between two tanks with Seachem's Potassium, Iron, and Comprehensive I can see that this method is going to be expensive. Especially when I start dosing on the planted 180 gallon I am going to be setting up shortly.
 
  • Thread Starter

-Mak-

Member
Cricket lynn mclean said:
How often are you dosing thrive? Also what does that percentage mean? Is it like vitamins? a percent of the daily recommended?
I'm assuming it's the % of liquid that isn't water, or it is a dissolved solid.
 

toolman

Member
I use the NilocG DIY pps-pro because it's premeasured and easy. Dry salts can be mixed with water or I have even heard of people adding them directly to the tank, but they have to be measured with a scale. However if you want to use them they have some advantages. 1)they're even less expensive, several yrs worth for less than $50.
2)they're very versatile, come in several different compounds so you can add more if one or another.

I don't know a lot more about them, would suggest you research the internet (NilocG, Greenleaf, other plant sellers also sell ferts). Will pm some links when I get time later this evening.

ashenwelt is very knowledgeable maybe he will see this and have some info to add.

Did you research the DIY pps-pro from NilocG, I use it on 4 tanks. It's dry ferts premeasured, a little more $ but easy.

For some dry salts work better. I didn't want to have to be a chemist and measure the different compounds to get the right mix, but I believe NilocG also has the compounds. Will pass on some other places to get them when I find the information.
 

OnTheFly

Member
I am using NILCOG PPS but measuring out the dries. In any event it is good stuff and very economical.
 

toolman

Member
Other sources for dry ferts...
Aquarium Plant Fertilizer | Green Leaf Aquariums

Planted Aquarium Fertilizer

Drs Foster and Smith has them also.

Also some really good information on these sites.
 

Discusluv

Member
Thank you for info toolman
 

OnTheFly

Member
toolman said:
For some dry salts work better. I didn't want to have to be a chemist and measure the different compounds to get the right mix, but I believe NilocG also has the compounds. Will pass on some other places to get them when I find the information.
I should have pointed out I am actually dosing liquid. Just mixing up dosing bottles from dry. Just converted the grams to teaspoons, quarter and half teaspoons etc. As much as I would like to pretend I am being precise, it has quickly become clear it doesn't really matter as the recommended dose is just a starting point. One tank with five times as much plant load as another needs a different dose, and lighting varies too of course. You are adjusting as you go anyway you do it. Doesn't matter if you pay much, much more for bottled products. Nobody can tell you what you need with any kind of accuracy. No way I could afford to dose all my tanks any other way.
 

Cricket lynn mclean

Member
toolman said:
I use the NilocG DIY pps-pro because it's premeasured and easy. Dry salts can be mixed with water or I have even heard of people adding them directly to the tank, but they have to be measured with a scale. However if you want to use them they have some advantages. 1)they're even less expensive, several yrs worth for less than $50.
2)they're very versatile, come in several different compounds so you can add more if one or another.

I don't know a lot more about them, would suggest you research the internet (NilocG, Greenleaf, other plant sellers also sell ferts). Will pm some links when I get time later this evening.

ashenwelt is very knowledgeable maybe he will see this and have some info to add.

Did you research the DIY pps-pro from NilocG, I use it on 4 tanks. It's dry ferts premeasured, a little more $ but easy.
I haven't researched them yet. I did look on the website. At this point I'm still kinda trying to figure out what's already' in my water. I tagged you in a post I started. Like I said there Phoenix has some fantastically hard water so I think it would be nice to figure out what will be replenished with water changes and start from there. I do a lot of water changes :/
I would like to go the most affordable way which sounds like it's dry fertilizers but I'm not sure how difficult that is. Followed by maybe your way?? Then e i?? Which is another one of those acronyms I don't know yet. Thanks for the input. I'll check out the sites you posted next chance I get.
 

ashenwelt

Member
So for large tanks or a lot of tanks... Dry is the only way. I would however make the solution you need. Oddly, I might add a second one with baking soda.... because I know I have an issue with my KH. You learn that by just observing over ti.me though. The premeasured is a very cool option and a good place to start.

Now here is the thing with hard water. In general I more or less have to ignore it somewhat. Why? Because it changes. Sometimes radically. If I wasn't in a weird spot in San Diego that get hard acidic water while 2 miles from me is hard basic water... I would be more cautious. The key is when you have really hard or variable water like me... keep doing regular water changes.

Next year I plan on doing the shift from liquid ferts (current Ultum Nature Systems which appears real close if not identical to Thrive) as I will be adding tanks and more CO2.
 

toolman

Member
Cricket lynn mclean said:
I haven't researched them yet. I did look on the website. At this point I'm still kinda trying to figure out what's already' in my water. I tagged you in a post I started. Like I said there Phoenix has some fantastically hard water so I think it would be nice to figure out what will be replenished with water changes and start from there. I do a lot of water changes :/
I would like to go the most affordable way which sounds like it's dry fertilizers but I'm not sure how difficult that is. Followed by maybe your way?? Then e i?? Which is another one of those acronyms I don't know yet. Thanks for the input. I'll check out the sites you posted next chance I get.
If you stick with low light plants you can probably get by without adding a lot as long as you use some trace or micros. Without dosing macros (npk, similar to garden fert) and micros(trace elements) you will get slower growth, but it can be done.

Sorry I didn't answer sooner, but I am at work now.
 

tommywantfishy

Member
-Mak- said:
Thank you for the reminder! A lot of people do 50% water changes each week, especially in small tanks planted or not, but yep that's an important part of EI, I'll add that

I've seen the dosing chart, and I like how they include all of their products. My tanks are very small so I can't see myself ever even using up each bottle of their ferts, but for large tanks it's very helpful. Though dry ferts are so much cheaper for large tanks in the long run.

Thanks again!
Question. I have a 9.3g IwagumI Sanzon tank. I also have an m5 twinstar. My light is a twinstar 450e over my UNS 45 tank. I put in some Seachem phosphate recently and thought it was Potassium (tired and sleepy ha). I had a HUGE green spot algae bloom. I use ada aqua soil normal, and fluval stratum with azoo biopro as my base. My dwarf hairgrass is taking over my tank. I have my light on 6 hours a day. Any suggestions with regards to my setup?
 

Cricket lynn mclean

Member
toolman said:
If you stick with low light plants you can probably get by without adding a lot as long as you use some trace or micros. Without dosing macros (npk, similar to garden fert) and micros(trace elements) you will get slower growth, but it can be done.

Sorry I didn't answer sooner, but I am at work now.
No big deal! I get that People have lives
Thanks. I am having some issues so gotta work it out but I really feel pretty lost. I often jump into a new hobby (family would say obsession) but I typically feel like I have more footing in others. With fertilizers lights macros and Micros and water quality I kinda feel like some giant picked me up and set me down in thin air.

tommywantfishy said:
Question. I have a 9.3g IwagumI Sanzon tank. I also have an m5 twinstar. My light is a twinstar 450e over my UNS 45 tank. I put in some Seachem phosphate recently and thought it was Potassium (tired and sleepy ha). I had a HUGE green spot algae bloom. I use ada aqua soil normal, and fluval stratum with azoo biopro as my base. My dwarf hairgrass is taking over my tank. I have my light on 6 hours a day. Any suggestions with regards to my setup?
I would suggest you duplicate it at my house! I'd love some grass to take over
 

OnTheFly

Member
Cricket lynn mclean said:
I haven't researched them yet. I did look on the website. At this point I'm still kinda trying to figure out what's already' in my water. I tagged you in a post I started. Like I said there Phoenix has some fantastically hard water so I think it would be nice to figure out what will be replenished with water changes and start from there. I do a lot of water changes :/
I would like to go the most affordable way which sounds like it's dry fertilizers but I'm not sure how difficult that is. Followed by maybe your way?? Then e i?? Which is another one of those acronyms I don't know yet. Thanks for the input. I'll check out the sites you posted next chance I get.
I would use a method that does not add significant calcium. Referred to as GH Booster by some sellers. My water is also crazy hard. The NILOCG method doses most everything lighter than E.I. method. They are similar methods though. The pre-mixed kit Toolman is using makes dry ferts about as easy as it can possibly get.
 
  • Thread Starter

-Mak-

Member
tommywantfishy said:
Question. I have a 9.3g IwagumI Sanzon tank. I also have an m5 twinstar. My light is a twinstar 450e over my UNS 45 tank. I put in some Seachem phosphate recently and thought it was Potassium (tired and sleepy ha). I had a HUGE green spot algae bloom. I use ada aqua soil normal, and fluval stratum with azoo biopro as my base. My dwarf hairgrass is taking over my tank. I have my light on 6 hours a day. Any suggestions with regards to my setup?
GSA is usually said to be a result from lack of phosphate, but of course any imbalance can cause different types of algae. If you dealt with that and have no other algae, it sounds like a good setup. Dwarf hairgrass taking over is a good problem to have
 

cadd

Member
Mak, thank you for taking the time for the write up!!!

As a newbie, I have a 6 month old low tech tank with easy beginner plants and recently just started researching and looking to venture into the fertilizer world. But the more research I did, the more confusing it got.

Your write up helped tremendously. Thanks again!
 
  • Thread Starter

-Mak-

Member
cadd said:
Mak, thank you for taking the time for the write up!!!

As a newbie, I have a 6 month old low tech tank with easy beginner plants and recently just started researching and looking to venture into the fertilizer world. But the more research I did, the more confusing it got.

Your write up helped tremendously. Thanks again!
Very glad this helped!
 

Crystal Queen

Member
cadd said:
As a newbie, I have a 6 month old low tech tank with easy beginner plants and recently just started researching and looking to venture into the fertilizer world. But the more research I did, the more confusing it got.

Your write up helped tremendously. Thanks again!
I absolutely second this! I went to the Nilocg site, and the prices are so much better than what I was looking at. If I'm doing this I want to do this right, my question is once the pre measured packets are mixed in 500ml (little over 2 cups) how long is it good for? According to their site I would only be using 6ml each time I dosed. Being a low light low tech tank I'd prob only do it 1 maybe 2 times a week. I think I'm getting this right.

Thank you again for all the info!
 
  • Thread Starter

-Mak-

Member
Crystal Queen said:
I absolutely second this! I went to the Nilocg site, and the prices are so much better than what I was looking at. If I'm doing this I want to do this right, my question is once the pre measured packets are mixed in 500ml (little over 2 cups) how long is it good for? According to their site I would only be using 6ml each time I dosed. Being a low light low tech tank I'd prob only do it 1 maybe 2 times a week. I think I'm getting this right.

Thank you again for all the info!
I'm not completely sure about Nilocg, but according to Seachem their own ferts do not expire, so I would expect the same for Nilocg. Or else probably years. Glad to have helped!
 

tommywantfishy

Member
-Mak- said:
I'm not completely sure about Nilocg, but according to Seachem their own ferts do not expire, so I would expect the same for Nilocg. Or else probably years. Glad to have helped!
I have a bottle of Nilocg Thrive Plus (for hi-tec w/ lower ph water...or buffered via sub like ADA Amazonia or Fluval Stratum, etc) and a bottle of Nilocg Thrive S (100% shrimp/invert safe/no Copper),

I use Thrive S in my 29g, 10g, 5g, & 2.2g (amazing)....I am getting at least 3+ inches...maybe 5"/day in my 29. The Thrive plus is fantastic in my 9.3 hi-tec tank. 1 pump per 10g....will last FOREVER.

Pic #1 Jan 1
Pic #2 Current
85e395bb675d847c8bb12e00928b342d.jpg

a15ab18d8c682a446ed732957db0e083.jpg
 
  • Thread Starter

-Mak-

Member
tommywantfishy said:
I have a bottle of Nilocg Thrive Plus (for hi-tec w/ lower ph water...or buffered via sub like ADA Amazonia or Fluval Stratum, etc) and a bottle of Nilocg Thrive S (100% shrimp/invert safe/no Copper),

I use Thrive S in my 29g, 10g, 5g, & 2.2g (amazing)....I am getting at least 3+ inches...maybe 5"/day in my 29. The Thrive plus is fantastic in my 9.3 hi-tec tank. 1 pump per 10g....will last FOREVER.

Pic #1 Jan 1
Pic #2 Current
85e395bb675d847c8bb12e00928b342d.jpg

a15ab18d8c682a446ed732957db0e083.jpg
That is fantastic growth! Shows what a balanced macro + micro fert can do
 

jenmur

Member
Are my plants doing good from what you can see? I just want a more experienced person to let me know if I should add anything to my dosing. Right now I just put in SeaChem root tabs every two months.


bdb112f4d1f802971997f97db7fb5fc3.jpg
 
  • Thread Starter

-Mak-

Member
jenmur said:
Are my plants doing good from what you can see? I just want a more experienced person to let me know if I should add anything to my dosing. Right now I just put in SeaChem root tabs every two months.


bdb112f4d1f802971997f97db7fb5fc3.jpg
They look good from afar, do you have any yellowing or browning?
 

jenmur

Member
-Mak- said:
They look good from afar, do you have any yellowing or browning?
One of the Wisteria grew out of my tank (the back is open) I think it got burnt by the light because it’s black. Was dead tired last night so gonna cut it back in the water this morning. But the rest of its leaves are nice and green.
 
  • Thread Starter

-Mak-

Member
jenmur said:
One of the Wisteria grew out of my tank (the back is open) I think it got burnt by the light because it’s black. Was dead tired last night so gonna cut it back in the water this morning. But the rest of its leaves are nice and green.
I wouldn't worry then!
 

jenmur

Member
-Mak- said:
I wouldn't worry then!
Ok. Thanks!. First planted tank. Heh.
 

Thunder_o_b

Member
As you know I have been a user of the Seachem line for a very long time. But like many things I have no loyalty to them. It is simply a product to fill a need. I am approaching the time that I will be needing to order more 2 and 4 liter bottles. The cost is not insignificant.

I am always looking for a more cost efficient way of accomplishing my goals. This thread is helpful in that regard.
 
  • Thread Starter

-Mak-

Member
Thunder_o_b said:
As you know I have been a user of the Seachem line for a very long time. But like many things I have no loyalty to them. It is simply a product to fill a need. I am approaching the time that I will be needing to order more 2 and 4 liter bottles. The cost is not insignificant.

I am always looking for a more cost efficient way of accomplishing my goals. This thread is helpful in that regard.
Thank you for the words Thunder. Chemically speaking I have no doubt that each Seachem fertilizer is high quality. I too am looking at moving away from liquid ferts, regardless of the higher macro/micro composition of some, as the fact is they are still mostly water. The flexibility of dry dosing is looking very appealing to me right now.
 

Thunder_o_b

Member
-Mak- said:
Thank you for the words Thunder. Chemically speaking I have no doubt that each Seachem fertilizer is high quality. I too am looking at moving away from liquid ferts, regardless of the higher macro/micro composition of some, as the fact is they are still mostly water. The flexibility of dry dosing is looking very appealing to me right now.
The cost is getting out of hand for me. With the aquariums I have and the lights (the 150 tall has a Finnex plant 24/7 CC and a Current plant plus pro) the plants are consuming the ferts at an alarming rate. I have backed off on the feeding to see what would happen, and the plants are showing the results. Pin holes (they do love their potassium) and the red myrio in the 150 is thinning in the bottom half. So I brought the ferts back up. I have enough for about a month. I need to solve this before I place another large order.
 
  • Thread Starter

-Mak-

Member
Thunder_o_b said:
The cost is getting out of hand for me. With the aquariums I have and the lights (the 150 tall has a Finnex plant 24/7 CC and a Current plant plus pro) the plants are consuming the ferts at an alarming rate. I have backed off on the feeding to see what would happen, and the plants are showing the results. Pin holes (they do love their potassium) and the red myrio in the 150 is thinning in the bottom half. So I brought the ferts back up. I have enough for about a month. I need to solve this before I place another large order.
The other stickied fertilizer guide in this subsection has some basic info on dry dosing EI:
A Beginner's Guide To Fertilisers

Very knowledgeable user, unfortunately no longer an active account for some reason. Which means we won’t get an update on the other dry dosing method, PPS pro, but perhaps other internet resources will have something on it
 

Jeezusjuiicee

Member
-Mak- thank you for making this post! I've been doing research on plants a lot lately. But none on fertilizer! I just have one question. If I got a variety of "beginner" type plants, will thrive work for all the plants? Or will I need to do more if I have lots of plants? I grew legal cannabis a while back, so I understand the NPK ratio a bit and how plants need light and fertilizer etc. I ain't no scientist though so I never got a full grasp on it! Haha but again thanks so much you've helped me tons!
 
  • Thread Starter

-Mak-

Member
Jeezusjuiicee said:
-Mak- thank you for making this post! I've been doing research on plants a lot lately. But none on fertilizer! I just have one question. If I got a variety of "beginner" type plants, will thrive work for all the plants? Or will I need to do more if I have lots of plants? I grew legal cannabis a while back, so I understand the NPK ratio a bit and how plants need light and fertilizer etc. I ain't no scientist though so I never got a full grasp on it! Haha but again thanks so much you've helped me tons!
For sure Thrive will! You may not even need regular Thrive, ThriveC is good for very low tech setups. The only thing to note is that if you have soft water (below 5 GH), a GH booster is probably needed regardless of the type of liquid fertilizer you use
 

Jeezusjuiicee

Member
-Mak- said:
For sure Thrive will! You may not even need regular Thrive, ThriveC is good for very low tech setups. The only thing to note is that if you have soft water (below 5 GH), a GH booster is probably needed regardless of the type of liquid fertilizer you use
Awesome man thanks! And I'm thinking of getting a really good led light but that's all haha so would we call that medium tech? Hahaha jk. I know my water is quite hard! Calcium build up on everything here.

Hey do you use led? Any brands you would recommend? I've heard of the watt per gallon rule but can't find any leds that powerful at lfs
 
  • Thread Starter

-Mak-

Member
Jeezusjuiicee said:
Awesome man thanks! And I'm thinking of getting a really good led light but that's all haha so would we call that medium tech? Hahaha jk. I know my water is quite hard! Calcium build up on everything here.

Hey do you use led? Any brands you would recommend? I've heard of the watt per gallon rule but can't find any leds that powerful at lfs
My favorite that I've used is Chihiros, which is sort of like a discount ADA looking thing but actually puts out good PAR levels for the price. It fits best on rimless tanks though. Also remember that powerful light with no CO2 leads to algae.

Watts per gallon is outdated, PAR is what you're looking for as watts don't have to correspond to intensity. This is an excellent read
 

Jeezusjuiicee

Member
-Mak- said:
My favorite that I've used is Chihiros, which is sort of like a discount ADA looking thing but actually puts out good PAR levels for the price. It fits best on rimless tanks though. Also remember that powerful light with no CO2 leads to algae.

Watts per gallon is outdated, PAR is what you're looking for as watts don't have to correspond to intensity.
Thanks for the read man! Definitely makes sense. I used to grow legal cannabis and I did tons of research on led grow lights. I have a few of them but they are like 100 watts and you cannot look at them at all lool way to bright for fish! I'll definitely be doing research on aquarium grow lights now haha
 
  • Thread Starter

-Mak-

Member
Jeezusjuiicee said:
Thanks for the read man! Definitely makes sense. I used to grow legal cannabis and I did tons of research on led grow lights. I have a few of them but they are like 100 watts and you cannot look at them at all lool way to bright for fish! I'll definitely be doing research on aquarium grow lights now haha
Glad to help! I'm the one here who knows nothing abut terrestrial grow lights haha. There are some monster aquarium lights that you definitely should not look at as well.
 

DannyPritchett01

Member
Flourish was recommended to me at Petco and since I have been using it I have had many plants melt completly and become a total loss from lack of nutrients.
 

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