Inconsistent PH readings

I have 4 tanks and two tested in the 76 range,one at 60 and one at 70 ..perfect.It does not make sense.I use the same water for all and manage the 4 tanks in pretty much the same way.The Nitrate and Ammonia levels are perfect. When I checked the water which I use to replenish the evaporated water,it too tests at 76 as does my tap water,however the fitered drinking water tests 70. I cannot use this water because when I used the water we used to buy at Walmart which was filtered with the double osmosis,it would imediately(overnight)kill any fish we put in it.Any ideas anyone? I assume our home filtered water would do the same.

 

what are the contents in the tank? do you have any driftwood? any rocks?

 

what are the contents in the tank? do you have any driftwood? any rocks?

Hi,One tank that reads 7.6 there is no driftwood or rocks,and at present no fish.When I get it straightened out it will have one Betta,but there are some trumpet snails.

The other 7.6 tank has two rocks which I tested with white vinegar,and they both are clean.It is a 10 gallon one with 4 Mollies in it.

The tank with the 7.0 reading has 2 Zebra Danios,I large Guppy and one White Cloud Mountain Minnow.Had some snails,but they seemn to have died.

The one reading 6.0 is a small tank with one Molly and one very tiny Guppy.A few snails and no driftwwood or rocks.Only a platic decoration.This tank has been basically untouched for over two years with no problems.I estimate that it is about 4 gallons.


All the tanks are filtered and heated at 76 degrees.

 

Well your over stocked/under schooled if it helps any. Cant say why you PH is diffrent though, substrate types for each one?

 

Are you going to tell me that 4(four) little Mollies are over?Holy cow,do they need an individual tank.Surely that isn't possible..is it? What do you think about the filtered water...did you read my first post?
Did I mention that Ammonia levels are perfect as well as Nitrite?

They all have gravel on the bottom.About the 7.6 ones,one has a thicker layer than the other.I have read that it's better to just leave the PH alone even if it's a bit off,as changing the PH is even more dangerous to the fish.What is your opinion abou that?

 

Perfect means 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite & less then 20 nitrates?

 

Are you going to tell me that 4(four) little Mollies are over?Holy cow,do they need an individual tank.Surely that isn't possible..is it?

Not individual tanks, but a bigger tank. Mollies are known for being big waste producers. You say "little," so it's possible that your mollies aren't full-grown, but when they are, you'll be overstocked.

What do you think about the filtered water?

Either the fish were shocked by being too suddenly immersed in different water, or else the complete lack of minerals (and, possibly, oxygen... depending on how you added the water) killed them... probably. I'm just guessing here, because I don't know all of the circumstances.

I have read that it's better to just leave the PH alone even if it's a bit off,as changing the PH is even more dangerous to the fish.What is your opinion abou that?

That is absolutely true. A pH of 7.6 is fine, as is 7.0. I'd be a bit worried about 6.0, though. A too-low pH can affect the tank's cycle. I don't know how low is too low.

If you want to raise it, adding a little crushed coral is a good way to gradually and slightly increase the pH. Chemicals are a ticking time bomb, and too fast of a change is deadly.

 

Perfect means 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite & less then 20 nitrates?

Yes,except that I have not tested for Nitrates.Just Nitrite.I will have to get a Nitrate test kit?

 

@Aylad...I just changed about 20% of the water in that small tank and raised the Ph to 6.4...would that be enough in your opinion? I have read that live bearers prefer 7.5

 

@Aylad...I just changed about 20% of the water in that small tank and raised the Ph to 6.4...would that be enough in your opinion? I have read that live bearers prefer 7.5

Be cautious... too much of a pH change in too short of a time can be deadly. 6.4 sounds a lot better, but the pH might drop again within the next day or two... and that's another dangerous part.

The fact that livebearers prefer 7.5 really isn't anything to worry about. They'll be ok as long as the pH is stable and doesn't kill the bacteria that process ammonia and nitrite.

Adding a buffer to your water through crushed coral or similar natural means will help stabilize your pH and keep water changes and other factors from swinging it back and forth. Chemicals generally won't do that effectively, hence many members' advice to avoid them.

 

Without knowing which buffer has been depleted it may be best to continue with daily water changes. Ph changes of 0.4 has no negative impact on your fish. The lack of buffers may have been a factor in the loss if snails.

Do you clean the gravel? Lift decor to clean under them? Too much debris can cause the ph to crash.

I would not suggest changing to bottled water. Fish need a stable environment and you never know what's in those bottles.

What is your true ph of your tap? Set untreated water in a bucket with an airstone. Test every 24-hours until there is no ph change. This should closely match your tank ph.

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Without knowing which buffer has been depleted it may be best to continue with daily water changes. Ph changes of 0.4 has no negative impact on your fish. The lack of buffers may have been a factor in the loss if snails.

Do you clean the gravel? Lift decor to clean under them? Too much debris can cause the ph to crash.

I would not suggest changing to bottled water. Fish need a stable environment and you never know what's in those bottles.

What is your true ph of your tap? Set untreated water in a bucket with an airstone. Test every 24-hours until there is no ph change. This should closely match your tank ph.

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Tap water Ph was 7.6 or more as the test kit only goes to 7.6...I have not cleaned the gravel.Frankly I hesitate to do that as then I would have to recycle the water and that takes time.What would you suggest?

PS Those are some great videos.My youtube name is kaunasprince,so if you get a comment from me,that is the handle.

 

Here is my idea on how to clean the gravel and not kill the fish in the process.Please correct me if I am wrong.
1.catch the fish,and float them in another tank with equal temperature.
2.Put most of the water from the now fishless tank into a container,
3.Wash the gravel
4.Put the same water back into the tank
5.After the heater heats to the same temp,return the 2 fish back into their original tank.

What if this changes the Ph dramatically? I considered transering the 2 fish into the tank with the good Ph(7.0)but am afraid of the huge change.Woe is me

 

What do mean by wash the gravel?

 

What do mean by wash the gravel?

I mean rinse it in plain water,
I have already started the process.The water is in buckets,but I have not washed thre gravel yet.It really is pretty funky on the bottom.

 

If you don't already have a gravel cleaner, please pick one up. If you do too much as once there can be issues.

When doing the small partial water changes shove the gravel cleaner tube through the gravel. Once all debris has been lifted move the tube about an inch and repeat. Work in small areas so your tank doesn't go through a mini-cycle. Once you have removed 20-25% of the water stop; and start in this area tomorrow.

Beneficial bacteria do not live in the water. They attach to hard surfaces.

Nice to here you enjoyed some of my videos. Thank you for the comments.

 

If you don't already have a gravel cleaner, please pick one up. If you do too much as once there can be issues.

When doing the small partial water changes shove the gravel cleaner tube through the gravel. Once all debris has been lifted move the tube about an inch and repeat. Work in small areas so your tank doesn't go through a mini-cycle. Once you have removed 20-25% of the water stop; and start in this area tomorrow.

Beneficial bacteria do not live in the water. They attach to hard surfaces.

Nice to here you enjoyed some of my videos. Thank you for the comments.

Too late.I will take as much of the gravel as I can that is not too dirty and not wash it.That should provide the bacteria.Wish me luck.

 

Things to buy. Gravel cleaner and some crushed Coral.

 

Things to buy. Gravel cleaner and some crushed Coral.

Get information before you use the coral on specific amounts to use and the best way to make use of it. Many people use it with good results, but be sure you know what they've done right and what mistakes to avoid.

 

Get information before you use the coral on specific amounts to use and the best way to make use of it. Many people use it with good results, but be sure you know what they've done right and what mistakes to avoid.

Really? A natural substance that might be harmful? Where pray tell, can I get this information?
BTW,how much gravel do you use? I mean in inches.

 

A Google search, a forum search above, or asking a question in the forum might be good.

My gravel isn't evenly spread, but I guess it varies between 1 and 3 inches. There's around 30 pounds of gravel in my 29-gallon tank; most people that I've seen recommend 1 to one-and-a-half pounds per gallon. That really depends on the tank, though.

 

A Google search, a forum search above, or asking a question in the forum might be good.

My gravel isn't evenly spread, but I guess it varies between 1 and 3 inches. There's around 30 pounds of gravel in my 29-gallon tank; most people that I've seen recommend 1 to one-and-a-half pounds per gallon. That really depends on the tank, though.

Oh yeah,I remember something about that.I think it is better to angle the slope back to front,easier to clen.Right? Dang,I forgot to do that today.Oh well,next time.My gravel cleaning went well this morning.The Ph is more or less the same and the fish are acting normal.I think if they are still doing well tomorrow I will be able to relax.

 

A Google search, a forum search above, or asking a question in the forum might be good.



That is an interesting thread,but sadly it is closed,so I cannot ask any questions.It is a very nice read,and I get the impression that crushed coral can be used to raise or lower the Ph.How is that possible?

 

I have no idea, I'm sorry. I wouldn't have expected that.

 

I have no idea, I'm sorry. I wouldn't have expected that.

Please don't apologize,it was nice to read and maybe I learned something.

 

That is an interesting thread,but sadly it is closed,so I cannot ask any questions.It is a very nice read,and I get the impression that crushed coral can be used to raise or lower the Ph.How is that possible?

Before attempting to adjust pH, an understanding of how it is balanced with GH and KH buffers is necessary. These 3 components are a sub-system within our tanks. Raise the carbonate and the GH and pH will adjust to keep this system in balance.

Here's a good article, stickied at the top of this forum for quick access: https://www.fishlore.com/aquariumfishforum/threads/gh-kh-and-ph.75315/

 

Before attempting to adjust pH, an understanding of how it is balanced with GH and KH buffers is necessary. These 3 components are a sub-system within our tanks. Raise the carbonate and the GH and pH will adjust to keep this system in balance.

Here's a good article, stickied at the top of this forum for quick access: https://www.fishlore.com/aquariumfishforum/threads/gh-kh-and-ph.75315/

OMG Dena,my head is going to blow up. What is "carbonate"? You must know that I am in over my head,right?
I felt so bad when I read that your red Betta died.When there is a single fish in an aquarium,they are individuals and therefore more like a real pet.

Allan AKA kaunas prince

 

Sorry I confused you.

KH = Carbonate Hardness, measures carbonate (calcium compound) levels
GH = General Hardness, measures calcium and magnesium levels

These hardness tests measure the carbonate and overall hardness of water. Others have suggested the purchase of crushed coral, which is mostly calcium. The idea is to raise the calcium level and it will raise pH. But if it is magnesium your tank needs, pH may not be affected.

This balancing act is one of the many science lessons we learn in aquaria. I know it is confusing at first. But you need to understand it before attempting to make adjustments. Otherwise more harm than good come of it. Proceed cautiously.

Yeah I was very disappointed when I lost my rescue betta. I have a new one now that is thriving.

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Sorry I confused you.

KH = Carbonate Hardness, measures carbonate (calcium compound) levels
GH = General Hardness, measures calcium and magnesium levels

These hardness tests measure the carbonate and overall hardness of water. Others have suggested the purchase of crushed coral, which is mostly calcium. The idea is to raise the calcium level and it will raise pH. But if it is magnesium your tank needs, pH may not be affected.

This balancing act is one of the many science lessons we learn in aquaria. I know it is confusing at first. But you need to understand it before attempting to make adjustments. Otherwise more harm than good come of it. Proceed cautiously.

Yeah I was very disappointed when I lost my rescue betta. I have a new one now that is thriving.

Sent from my Motorola Electrify using Tapatalk

OK...so now what do I do.I don't comprehend most of the advice I am getting and some gets contradicted by another person.Right now I have two fish in a fishy hospice and I wonder if it's my fault.One of them is from the tank with the 7.0 Ph. Was going to try to euthanize them,but could not get myself to do it
Allan

 

I'll make this a bit easier for you. If/when Dena contradicts anything I say, go with her advice and forget mine. She knows waaaaaaay more than me here.

 

If you don't already have a gravel cleaner, please pick one up. If you do too much as once there can be issues.

When doing the small partial water changes shove the gravel cleaner tube through the gravel. Once all debris has been lifted move the tube about an inch and repeat. Work in small areas so your tank doesn't go through a mini-cycle. Once you have removed 20-25% of the water stop; and start in this area tomorrow.

Beneficial bacteria do not live in the water. They attach to hard surfaces.

Nice to here you enjoyed some of my videos. Thank you for the comments.

[/QUOT

". Work in small areas so your tank doesn't go through a mini-cycle. Once you have removed 20-25% of the water stop; and start in this area tomorrow."

I do not understand.Why would I remove water when I am trying to remove the dirt? What is a mini-cycle and how do I avoid creating that? How small is a small area?.

Allan

 

If you don't already have a gravel cleaner, please pick one up. If you do too much as once there can be issues.

When doing the small partial water changes shove the gravel cleaner tube through the gravel. Once all debris has been lifted move the tube about an inch and repeat. Work in small areas so your tank doesn't go through a mini-cycle. Once you have removed 20-25% of the water stop; and start in this area tomorrow.

Beneficial bacteria do not live in the water. They attach to hard surfaces.

Nice to here you enjoyed some of my videos. Thank you for the comments.

Well, we finally used the gravel cleaner tube.It was amazing how much dirt we got.The wife went overboard and cleaned about half of the gravel.As you suggested will do the rest tomorrow,or should we just do half of the remaining gravel?
I read that one should not top off the tank for evaporated water.I understand the concept,but in a week's time there really is a lot of evaporation.How do you feel about that,and do we really need to siphon the substrata junk every time we add water? How often do you clean your tanks?
Weekly seems excessive.

 

I'd give it a couple of days before doing the other half of the gravel. Doing too much at once can cause a mini-cycle. Each week while doing my water changes, I also do a small area gravel vac, no more than 1/3 even if extremely dirty. My goal is to have touched all areas of the gravel once a month. And, depending on how dirty my tank gets (some fish, like plecos and goldfish create much waste) I use the gravel vac under my decor items.

I always top off my tanks! Just make sure the new water is properly dechlorinated.

My weekly maintenance in my non-planted tanks include:
*On tanks where I need to run tests, that is the first thing I do. I want to know the water chemistry before making any changes. This test also guides me with how large of a water change is necessary. After several months, you will have figured out what is the norm and how much water to change to maintain a healthy tank.

*30-50% water change, depends on how the tank is stocked and how high the nitrates climb. All tanks are maintained to hold the nitrates under 20PPM at all times

*Gravel vac about 1/4 of the gravel bed while doing my water change. If the gravel bed is particularly dirty, I always get less of the gravel cleaned. Just make a note so I know where to start with the next water change. In my sand tanks, I make sure to stir the sand bed as only a surface vac can be done.

*Check that all fish are healthy/uninjured and do a head count. As I use a python hose sometimes the smaller fish get sucked into the tubing. I try to avoid this, but it still happens occasionally.

*Never do filter maintenance on water changing/gravel vac days. Instead on the day I decide to top off my tank, I remove a gallon or so of water and use this to rinse my filter media, especially my sponges. This water will be nasty when you finish. Once done, rinse the bucket well and top off the tank. When the filters are again running on the tanks, monitor to ensure that water flow is as expected.

I'm sure others have a different maintenance plan. You will need to figure out what works for you.

 

CAROL(my wife)said that I was wrong and we did only 1/3 of the tank.It was around two gallons of a 10 gallon tank,so is it OK to do it tomorrow?All of our tanks have gravel,no sand at all.Oh,another question...how many of those pellets do you feed a Betta? We got one yesterday and I am trying to be sure that I do everything right.

 

Yes, tomorrow should be fine.

 

Depending on the maturity of the betta, 1-3 pellets daily. My bigger betta gets 3/day, my younger one gets 1 some days and 2 others. I usually let them fast 1 day per week to clean out their systems.

 

It all depends on the fish, the pellets and the tank(NOTE: This will be a contradiction).

A warm tank makes for a higher motabalism, they burn through food faster at which point 2 twice a day, even 3 may be appropriate. Cooler temps mean they only need feeding once a day and 2-4 pellets. I use a mix of pellets but typicaly I use 3-4 for my guys once a day. I use NLS(rather small).

 

Yes, tomorrow should be fine.

OK...and I have to do this every week? What a pain in the butt

 

Depending on the maturity of the betta, 1-3 pellets daily. My bigger betta gets 3/day, my younger one gets 1 some days and 2 others. I usually let them fast 1 day per week to clean out their systems.

Wow,no wonder they are crabby.I will follow your recommendation.Thank you

 

Still having PH issues

I have done all the suggested solutions to my PH problems,yet they persist.Out of 4 tanks,only one is close to acceptable.I wonder what the more experienced fishie people think about using Tetra Easy Balance with NITRABAN. Also,why do you need an airstone if the tank is being aerated with a filter? I am concerned with the possibility of having the PH going rapidly to 7.0 and have this change shock the fish.Right now the PH is anywhere from 6.0 to 7.6.