Importance of matching Chiller / Filter flow rate?

Nick72

I have the Fluval FX6 canister filter, rated as pump output 3500 L/H, circulation 2000 L/H.

Can I attach the Hailea HK 1000A Chiller to this circuit, with flow rating of 5000-10’000 L/H?

What would be the down side of providing a flow below the Chiller’s rating?
 

MacZ

What would be the down side of providing a flow below the Chiller’s rating?
It cools down further than you want. As the water stays in contact with the heat-exchanging module longer than designed for more energy is transferred. If you are lucky this is in abearable amplitude, maybe 2-4°C lower than you want it, which can be compensated for. If not you end up with 10 or more degree lower temp than planned.

I recommend getting an extra pump only for the circulation of the cooling unit and nothing else. It's rather unusual to integrate the cooler in the filtration circuit, as with every length of hose to different appliances pressure and passage per minute go down.
 

Nick72

Thanks MacZ

I don’t quite get the resulting issue of a lower flow rate. I read somewhere else the slow flow rate would mean the water is staying in the aquarium longer than it should be by design and therefore having more time to heat up, creating an inefficient chiller / aquarium ratio and a net warmer aquarium.

I don’t really know? But I guess they have a minimum flow rate for a reason and I should probably try to stick within the range.

It’s challenging to work through this one. My LFS tell me it’s important to have the water go through the canister prior to entering the chiller so that the chiller doesn’t get clogged over time?

I’m not sure about that either?

I could go with an independent pump / chiller circuit separate from the canister circuit, but even then could my 4ft x 2ft x 2ft (120g) aquarium really cope with an additional 5000 L/H circulation on top of the flow already created by the canister?

I wonder if that wouldn’t be too much for the fish?
 

MacZ

I don’t quite get the resulting issue of a lower flow rate. I read somewhere else the slow flow rate would mean the water is staying in the aquarium longer than it should be by design and therefore having more time to heat up, creating an inefficient chiller / aquarium ratio and a net warmer aquarium.
Not completely wrong but depends on the energy influx that heats the tank up. The volume of the tank also factors in. So if the tank is over a certain volume and environment temp is over a certain threshold you end up higher than aimed for, but still cooler than surrounding temp. If both are below certain thresholds you cool down further than aimed for.
Makes sense?
My LFS tell me it’s important to have the water go through the canister prior to entering the chiller so that the chiller doesn’t get clogged over time?
Easy fix: Put a sponge as a prefilter over the inlet of the pump.

I could go with an independent pump / chiller circuit separate from the canister circuit, but even then could my 4ft x 2ft x 2ft (120g) aquarium really cope with an additional 5000 L/H circulation on top of the flow already created by the canister?
You can control the inflow with all kinds of measures: Spraybars, in-hose valves... You could even try and cancel the currents out with each other by pointing them in opposite directions.

I wonder if that wouldn’t be too much for the fish?
I don't know what you're keeping.
 

Nick72

Thanks for the clarification and advice MacZ

All very good points.

I’m planning on a Severum single species tank.

A spray bar may be just the thing.

What are you referring to by in-hose valve?
 

MacZ

What are you referring to by in-hose valve?
There are valves you can put in a hose. Basically a connector with a check valve.

Something like this. Doesn't have to be that exact model, you can get it from many manufacturers.
EHEIM Absperrhahn Ø 12/16 mm

You can regulate flow rates with that.

I’m planning on a Severum single species tank.
They can take some current. Not too much, but they don't need standing water if you will.
 

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