The past 2 days in the evening ammonia would be zero and nitrites would be zero. That is after dosing to 2ppm ammonia the previous day. The ammonia is gone in prob 12 to 16 hours, and the nitrate takes the full 24 hours....or less, but I haven't timed it exactly. If I'm not adding any livestock yet, should I dose every other day just to keep the Colony active? And I'll do another 50% wt before I add any licestock.
So I'm going to order all the extra goodies that have been suggested now that the cycle is done, and I've just been on auto pilot waiting for the holiday crazy to be over. So I'll be ordering the filter caddy, the spin stream, and that cobalt heater....my question with the heater is how slI'm is it? I don't know where I'll be able to squeeze it In? The 3 chambers are pretty much used up. The caddy in the overflow chamber, then the skimmer in the mid chamber, and the return chamber is where the pump is, which is where the evaporation really hits hard...so it may not be full all the time, as I have to put water in there everyday.
Also, there's the 50 and the 100w. It wouldn't hurt to get the 100w, No? Or is that a bad idea based on footprint, or power?
Eeek, just want to say I'm sorry that we missed your post on 12/10. Don't know how that escaped me, but I don't like to leave people hanging.
Wish I could help with the heater, but I have neither and AIO or a Cobalt. It's a busy time of year for most of us, but hopefully our buddy Nart , (King of IM's and Cobalt Neotherm heaters ), will be around soon to help you with that.
I have considered an ato. I bought the materials to build a new stand for the IM, as it's on a wine rack/glass holder currently...which isn't very conducive to holding supplies, water, etc. So once that is built, I also bought some electrical components to make a DIY ATO. But until I have the stand built, to hold the water and the electrical bits to make the ATO, I'm doing it manually.
The stand should only take a couple hours to build after I come up with a way to be the most efficient In housing what I need to.
Ok so today I was hard at work building my fusion stand. When your a flatbed driver and none of the contractors you deliver to are working.....it makes for nice days to gert paid to do personal stuff..lol
So I still have to wrap in plywood and paint or cover it in something else....but so far so good.....added a shelf on the top portion....but most importantly have enough room to store the two 5 gallon buckets underneath!
Then I get home from my productive day, and it's like Christmas all over again! Gotta love Amazon Prime!
So I hooked everything up and put the empty caddy in its home. I placed the heater in the return pump chamber, and placed it up against the barrier where the overflow from the skimmer pours. There is really no place to put it otherwise. I'm figuring since the water flows down that "wall" it will still be covered in water, even when the water evaporates and that chamber gets low. Nart, does that seem like it will work?
Another busy day at work, so I'm almost finished with the stand...just need to put some trI'm on it, and paint it black.....the bottom JUST fits the two buckets for water...and the front will be atta he'd using magnetic cabinet strikers....so I can pop off the whole front, and it won't have a handle. This way it won't look like it's anything but a box ...
It's been a while since an update.....but not much has happened....still feeding ammonia to keep everything happy....built the stand and got it home, so I'm hoping this weekend I'll add a couple things to it. If free time, permits. Only 1 fish to start, and a cuc member or two.
Here's some pics of the stand....which is far to big for the tank, but it had to hold the two buckets underneath. This will also Gove me the possibility to have a spot for a small hospital tank if I need one in a pinch.
The cabinet magnets work AWESOME to hold the front panel on and make it look like a 3 year old won't mess with it..
Thanks! Much better than the silly thing it's on now. And functional....I think I could probably park a Volkswagen on it with how sturdy it is...lol....but I guess it gives room for a bigger aio setup down the road.
All in all, I think it cost about $45 with screws and paint...so I'll take it!
So I just did what I had hoped to be the final big water change last night before I hoped to add livestock. However, after the water change, my nitrates are still awfully high....probably close to 80ppm.
I used purigen in a media bag in the caddy, and let it run from yesterday evening until today. Just got home from work and they are STILL any high.
Anyone have any insight as to what my next step should be? Is it safe to add more purigen to the bag? I only used what was meant for 10gallons (10ml).....or does it take a while to start to work? I would assume since it's a synethic media, it would work fairly quickly.
stella1979 Nart Culprit, any suggestions?
I've never used purigen.... I would add another 10 ml. If you're still running 80ppm and you don't have any livestock in the tank, why don't you do a 75% water change? That should take you down to about 20 nitrates, then tomorrow morning if the purigen hasn't worked do another wc.
I only just put in percula clowns in mine. My nitrates were zero. what I did was used live rock ( yours looks like dry rock?). Cycled for 3 weeks. Usually there will be a spike in ammonia and nitrate levels (initially). All I did was have bio media! it is a must. By some Marine pure balls.. 5 of them will do. They will house good beneficial bacteria in them to counter ammonia and nitrates. Did you use liquid start up (bacteria)? to help boost the good bacteria? have your protein skimmer running during the cycle. Also you could use chemI pure blue (some hobbyists-swear by this as the best). I put this in to clear the water and remove copper etc. Water changes aren't really need on the starting cycle as you need your tank to stabalise etc (a few of my local LFS's suggested not to) Until CUC or fish are introduced.
The tank is completely cycled. It's been cycled for about 2 weeks....all I've been doing is dosing ammonia to keep the bacteria colony happy since I hadn't added livestock. The nitrates have been a problem for a while.
I've done a couple water changes since the cycle has been completed, of about 50-60%, but it doesn't change much. I had floss in the initial chamber to catch and sand that got stirred up, but had seen that some folks wound up with nitrate factories using floss....so I ripped it out when I got my IM media caddy.
It looks like another water change is in order...ugh...
With liverock and biomedia in there, you should be able to biologically get rid of the nitrates. Seek some more suggestions directly from your LFS. I'm pretty surprised with how long it has taken to cycle your tank.
All you need pretty much is your protein skimmer (no need for a filter if you have good water flow - no dead spots ...and a skimmer), power head, bio media blocks and LIVE ROCK (cant stress it enough).
Hope it helps. Hope all has been good so far. You want to get it right the first time rather than have fish or coral die on you very expensive if so.
I went to our not so lfs that deals with marine/reef. I needed to get some more salt, anyway.
So I spoke to the guy and he suggested that I may not have enough bacteria. Even though whatever is in there is processing ammonia and nitrite rapidly.
So his suggestion was Microbe-Lift Bacterial Balancer.
And a Chemipure Blue bag, since I wasn't really running any other media.
So I grabbed that stuff yesterday, mixed up another batch of water for a large wc.
I even made sure I tested my rodI water to make sure there were no nitrates in it before I did the change.
I changed probably 6 gallons, which left about an inch, if that, of water in the DT, and even siphoned out the entire return pump chamber in the back of the tank.
Now it's reading around 20ppm.
I dumped in some of that microbe lift and we will see what happens. It only said to use about a tsp of the stuff, but I put substantially more than that, within reason. But it states o the bottle to add more for saltwater, since things take longer.
So we went to the lfs yesterday after we had a week of reasonable nitrate levels after a couple back to back day water changes last weekend. So I did another one of Friday, just to set the schedule basically. When I asked our daughter what kind of fish she wanted, she said nemo and marlin.....So instead of variety, I got overruled to two clowns...lol...
Got a couple blue legs as well, and I got some other cuc in the works, but not for a little bit, yet.
So I know we can only add 1 more small guy. Nart suggested a neon goby....but they aren't so easy to find, locally.....any other suggestions for when that day comes a month from now?
Anyhow, here's nemo and marlin...
Hmmm, well I'm sure you've heard this before, but clowns can be very territorial and imo should've been added last. With that out of the way, for a third fish I think it's important that you go with a bottom dweller, or one that will keep to the rockwork low in the tank. So, perhaps a small blenny or goby. Just be careful and watch closely when you add this new fish. The clowns may misbehave.
Yes I heard that....I got the smallest ones he had, and knew that it could be a gamble with adding a third wheel in a few weeks. I'm putting out good vibes, and hoping the pair will keep themselves busy and not cause too much trouble.
Hmmm asides from a neon goby. You can try a pistol goby, like Yasha goby, hi-fin goby, yellow watchmen goby, wheeler goby.
They should be find, as those gobies occupy the bottom of the tank, mainly near the rocks as they'll start digging a hole to live in.
Where does your clown hangout most of the time? is it in that little cave near the bottom? If so, you might not be able to put the pistol goby in, because they might fight for territory.
Yeah - definitely no real function to a bottom dweller. You can try a neon cleaner goby, but as your clowns mature, they will become territorial, especially so in a smaller tank.
Though, I think most fishes will tolerate neon cleaner gobies as they don't pose a threat to them. But yeah, if you are okay with just clowns and CUC, I would just leave it be.
So the nearly 2 week update..
Phos: 0 Calcium: 400
Didnt check carb. Hardness, But have that option as well..
Everyone seems to be happy...we did have a cerith death due to one of the blue legs evicting him for his larger apartment...which was a surprise to me!
Clowns eating like crazy, and no issues with them fighting or anything....
The diatom bloom has started about a week ago after I stirred the substrate during a water change, but I'm sure it'll clear up in time. I guess this is the "uglies" part of the maturing process.
Wow... my uglies were way worse than yours! The tank is looking great! Congrats on a job well done. Great, great pictures of the clowns. How about a close up of the urchin? It looks totally rad in the first pic on this page.
Not nano related....but upgraded my big tank (55g) reef project dramatically yesterday. Picked up a 150, drilled, with eshoppes overflow, trigger 34 sump, eflux return pump and some misc other bits....so my game has just stepped up, hard.
Once I get it cleaned and start getting things together I'll start a thread on that.....Will most likely be doing a bare bottom with just starboard or the pvc sheet siliconed on the bottom. Not dealing with that much sand...
No idea on lighting yet....it's 30 deep....so I'll need something strong...thankfully it's only 48 wide...so I don't have to find lights extra long.....thought about buying another aI Prime and using the one from my im10 and just buy8ng a more modest one for the nano. And using the 2 primes....
2 AI Prime HDs will light the tank, but it will seem a bit under powered. You will need at least 3 AI Prime HDs to adequately light the tank so that it actually seems bright and provide enough lighting for the corals to reduce shading down the line. Try 2 out, but I'd recommend 3.
That or, get 2 x Radion XR15W Pro Gen 4. Two of these light will provide very good lighting for the tank.
Ok, so I'm still in the cleaning, gathering, and planning process of the 150 prjoect....once I have some post worthy pics, I'll start a thread in the builds section...but until then...
Let's have a real discussion on BB......I've searched the forum for information, and haven't found anything recent. So I pose the question......what would be so bad about going BB? I'd obviously get some starboard or pvc board and rtv or silicone it down....but it just seems like it'd be so much nicer. And easier to clean.....any experiences you guys can share?
My first order of dry rock came in the mail today. I liked the reef saver rock from brs for its ease of scaping, and obviously the price point of 2.50ish/lb......
So since I'm going to need at least 120lbs for the 150, I started to explore if there were less expensive options out there for unused, dry rock.
I found on Amazon some "coral base rock" that comes in various piece sizes, but all in 40lb boxes.
Hesitant at the possibly of it being junk, I ordered on 1 box of 40lb....in the largest piece size (12") that was offered.
Well.....this is exactly the same stuff as brs' stuff from what I can tell.....and the best part is the 40lb box, shipped with prime was $47...
Lol, well, I couldn't say about north north, because I'm in the south, south, very near to the FL Keys, which are well worth a trip too. In ancient times, southern Florida was a reef! I grew up in Key Largo, where most yards have pea rock (tiny pieces of dry rock), instead of grass.
You gonna put some coral in that big ol' tank? Check out my thread if you want to see some eye candy picked up from a WWC Live Sale over the weekend.
Yes, coral is going to be rampant....lol...well, as long as I don't blow it.
The guy at the not so lfs convinced me to not go BB on the 150....so it'll be the plain Jane substrate. Unless I can find something different that doesn't break the bank for substrate.
Ordered another 40lbs of that rock , and grabbed a good hacksaw that I'm going to try to use to scape.
Not related, but I scored a box of "stuff " from letgo today from a guy who was doing a clean out of a Chinese restaurant, and they had a saltwater tank....so it had a couple powerheads with a vortech mp10 controller...one powerhead is a hydor...says max 1400gph, so I'll have to see which model that is....because it obviously doesn't push 1400gph....
A bunch of hoses for plumb8ng....a hang in tank hydrometer, red sea reef foundastion pro test kit, and this beauty......all for $30.....but I don't know if I can use this in sump...so it may not work.....but I'm sure I could unload it if I cant
Also, upon further research, I can't even use the skimmer on a 150...oh well, I'm sure I can find at least my $30 back from it
Errr, so I guess no MP10 with the controller? Surely not for $30, but I was just wondering what the controller was pushing. Anywhoo, I thought of this thread when I snapped a picture out in the FL Everglades over the weekend. Florida dry rock, just under the topsoil and exposed due to a tree getting uprooted during the last hurricane.
It does...but the controller is white
And it doesn't turn on...but I can feel it wants to run...so it's prob just mucked up from being dry for some time...I'm going to give it a soak in vinegar/water to see if I can't get it to move...the controller blinks from green to red, and you can feel the motor shimmy....but then stop..I'm guessing it's a safety