29 Gallon Tank I'm new, hello!

Citrisarcasm

Hello! I prefer to go by Citri and I am a fishkeeping novice. I'm having some issues that I am hoping you all could assist me with.
I have a 29g with two opaline gourami's and a pink kissing gourami, I acquired these fish before I knew what I was getting into with these species. I would love to give them a better habitat before I move them up into a larger tank. The tank they are in currently has a Tidal 55 filter, bubbler(For surface agitation), gravel substrate, two small fake decorations(Now that I know more I will change that), and a heater. I am going to use the emergency template because one of the fish appears to be in a rough state.
Tank
What is the water volume of the tank?
29G
How long has the tank been running?
9 1/2 months
Does it have a filter?
Yes, a Tidal 55 filter.
Does it have a heater?
Yes.
What is the water temperature?
75f
What is the entire stocking of this tank? (Please list all fish and inverts.)
-Opaline Gourami
-Opaline Gourami
-Pink Kissing Gourami
Maintenance
How often do you change the water?
Weekly
How much of the water do you change?
25%-35%
What do you use to treat your water?
Kordon- NovAqua water conditioner
Do you vacuum the substrate or just the water?
I vacuum the substrate.
*Parameters - Very Important
Did you cycle your tank before adding fish?
No.
What do you use to test the water?
API- FreshWater Master Test Kit
What are your parameters? We need to know the exact numbers, not just “fine” or “safe”.
Ammonia: 0.35 ppm
Nitrite: 0.30 ppm
Nitrate: 0 ppm
pH: 7.5

Feeding
How often do you feed your fish?
Daily, I have stopped the last two days though.
How much do you feed your fish?
A small pinch they seem to be able to eat in 1.5 - 2.5 minutes.
What brand of food do you feed your fish?
Omega One- Super color flakes
Do you feed frozen or freeze-dried foods?
Freeze dried? I'm not sure if Omega color flakes are freeze dried.

Illness & Symptoms
How long have you had this fish?
3 months
How long ago did you first notice these symptoms?
1 week
In a few words, can you explain the symptoms?
Hazy eyes, floats at the top, has trouble staying upright, right fin appears to be bloody.
Have you started any treatment for the illness?
Melafix and aquarium salt
Was your fish physically ill or injured upon purchase?
No
How has its behavior and appearance changed, if at all?
Color dulled, less active, still has an appetite though.

Explain your emergency situation in detail. (Please give a clear explanation of what is going on, include details from the beginning of the illness leading up to now)
I noticed the fish having trouble swimming and floating at the top when I checked in the morning a week ago, I noticed the symptoms I listed above, so I started dosing Melafix, aquarium salt(1 tbs after each water change), and super ick cure to help incase there was possibly a parasite. Last week on Friday I did a 25% water change, and dosed the amount of AmQuel water conditioner & ammonia detoxifier that was needed for 7.5 gallons. The fish seems to have slowly declined with all the same symptoms, but duller in color and even less active. I was feeding until two days ago, when I decided that because It seems to be a swim bladder disease, it may be caused by overfeeding, so I stopped feeding. Currently the fish still has these symptoms.
I'm open to any assistance/tips someone is willing to give.
 

mrsP

Welcome to fishlore! It looks like your aquarium is still cycling, as you have ammonia and nitrites. Most likely issues with your fish is due ammonia, so seeing medications hasn't helped, I would stop them and do a large water change to bring ammonia down to 0. Usually best first aid is pristine water, meaning a water change. Keep doing water changes every day at least few days to keep ammonia down, and you should see your fish recovering.

I would also change fake plants to easy live stem plants. They use ammonia, nitrites and nitrates from water column, helping to keep water parameters steady. Any quickly growing stem plant is fine, I would perhaps not choose hornwort, because it tends to shed it's leaves (needles) and look untidy. They grow in any substrate, don't worry about that.

Combining these 2, specially water changes asap, should help to figure out what's going on. Usually it's even all that's needed to fix things. Please keep us updated how it's going.
 

Flyfisha

Hi Citri
You are now doing what is called a “fish in “cycle .
Until the bacteria grow in numbers change 40%- 50% of the water every 48 hours. This is your only chance to keep the fish alive.
Both ammonia and nitrites are toxic that is the issue.

Apart from changing water and NOT cleaning any hard surfaces especially the filter there is nothing else needed to be done.
Use conditioner in the new water and match the temperature.

With a 29 gallon you need to change a couple of 5 gallon buckets. Rip the water out and pour the water in . A ten minute job. Never forget the conditioner. Do water changes before breakfast or after midnight whatever is convenient.
Save the medication for another day.

A link that may help? Feel free to ask questions Citri.
Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle
 

Citrisarcasm

Thank you for the help! So what I'm gathering from these responses is that I should start doing 40%-50% water changes every day or two days to help lower ammonia and nitrites, change the fake plants out for real plants that take nutrients from the water column, and stop using the medication. I will keep you both updated.
A question about the water changes, I use a Python for water changes and I turn of the filter to maintain whatever resemblance of a cycle I have, should I use buckets or the Python?
Also, thanks for all the welcomes!
I almost forgot! Should I feed the fish or no?
 

Mhamilton0911

Your python is totally fine (I love mine).

Just make sure not to forget the water conditioner, and temp match as close as you can.

And welcome! Sorry you're having trouble, hopefully we can assist and get things figured out for ya!
 

Citrisarcasm

Okay, thank you! I will definitely use water conditioner and temp match before I put the water in. You all have already been a massive help!
 

Flyfisha

A slow writing Aussie.
It is safe to do 45% water changes every 4 hours in my opinion. With my water and my fish. Some other people are happy to do 75% water changes. I don’t recommend it.

Basically changing water ( with or without the filter running) will not effect the cycle. The bacteria live ON hard surfaces that have a food supply going past . The filter is considered the main home for bacteria, but gravel, ornaments , wood and glass etc are all a place to live for bacteria.

We risk shocking the fish if the temperature or any parameters are different between old and new. That is why we don’t do 100% water changes and we should try and match the temperature. Especially for small fish and fry. And that is why we wait 3 or 4 hours before changing things again.

A Python is fine to use on a tank that is cycling.
We must always remember to add the conditioner to ANY new water. When using a Python the conditioner is added first and enough is used for the whole volume of the tank.
When using a bucket the conditioner goes in the bucket for just the volume of the bucket. Conditioner works in two minutes the water is safe almost straight away. Two minutes is not long.

By all means start playing with plants. It’s not as easy as it seems and may just be complicating the situation. Or use floating plants for now that you throw away like a bunch of flowers every fortnight/ month. Stem plants like guppy grass . Don’t waste your money or get to attached to the plants at this stage. ( IMO)
 

86 ssinit

Welcome to fishlore! You’ve gotten great info and as you see lots of help . What your doing now is a fish in cycle. What I always do . Thing now is to test your water daily. When ammonia and nitrites are above .25 change water. When changing water add prime water conditioner this neutralize’s the ammonia,nitrite and chlorine in your water. Next test your tap water for ph,ammonia ,nitrite and nitrate. Nitrate test need to be shaken hard for the times it says. Plants are great but first get your tank right . Once normal add plants. Are these 3 fish new to the tank or the only fish. I ask cause you state you’ve had the tank for 9 1/2 months.
 

Citrisarcasm

Okay, so when changing the water, as long as I left the enough water conditioner for the whole tank in there for two minutes, the chlorine/chloramines won't affect the current bacteria I have built up?
For temp matching I usually leave the faucet running with a thermometer until it sustains 75 degrees for 30 seconds to a minute and then run the water to the tank. All this is done after adding water conditioner and waiting two minutes. Is that safe?
For plants could I use cuttings of something like Potho's(Devils Ivy) or Inch plant's(Wandering Jew) to start off with, just leaving it with the roots in the water?
Welcome to fishlore! You’ve gotten great info and as you see lots of help . What your doing now is a fish in cycle. What I always do . Thing now is to test your water daily. When ammonia and nitrites are above .25 change water. When changing water add prime water conditioner this neutralize’s the ammonia,nitrite and chlorine in your water. Next test your tap water for ph,ammonia ,nitrite and nitrate. Nitrate test need to be shaken hard for the times it says. Plants are great but first get your tank right . Once normal add plants. Are these 3 fish new to the tank or the only fish. I ask cause you state you’ve had the tank for 9 1/2 months.
Got it, thanks for the info! To answer your question "Are these 3 fish new to the tank or the only fish", I have had these fish for 3 months each, so they are fairly new I would think, and they are the only fish in the tank.
I have had other fish in the tank, but I stopped getting fish about 3 months ago because I realized I need to fix this problem before adding any new ones.
 

86 ssinit

Yes Potho’s is fine and will eat up nitrates. Problem you don’t have nitrates . Not gonna hurt though.
Yeswhat your doing is the right way. There’s a bit to fish keeping. Thing is we need to know about your tap water. Are you on a well or city water? Next is your test kit the api master liquid kit?
 

Citrisarcasm

I'm on city water and I do use the API Fresh Water Master liquid test kit.
 

86 ssinit

Great most city water is regulated so you should be fine. And the api is the go to kit90% use here. So just test and change your water as needed. Your fish should start improving within the week.
 

Citrisarcasm

Great! I also got a mesh basket sort of thing for the injured fish, I thought I could put the fish in there impermanently until they are healed, is that a good idea?
For some more context, the injured fish occasionally gets chased and I don't want the situation to get worse.
 

StarGirl

Welcome to Fishlore!
 

Dennis57

Hi, and Welcome to Fishlore.
 

AggressiveAquatics

Welcome to fishlore. I think your going through a mini cycle not an entire cycle. Because if your tank was setup 9 and a half months ago then unless you replaced your filter your cycle would have finished a long time ago
 

Citrisarcasm

I think that would explain it, I replaced my filter on march tenth to a Tidal 55.
Also, thanks for all the welcomes!
 

Citrisarcasm

Update: I did a 50% water change two hours ago, used water conditioner and ammonia detoxifier, and temp matched before letting the water fill up the tank. Is that a good way to do it?
 

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