I'm getting co2 for my tank but I have a question about the solenoids.

So I have everything bought for a co2 system and it is coming in the mail but I am confused of what happens when I connect the solenoid to the light timer that I already have. The light timer I have has two plugs so i'm going to have one plugged in for the light and the other for the co2 system. So what's going to happen when I connect the co2 system via the solenoid to my light timer? Will it just start pushing co2 into my tank and how do you control how much goes in? Is there a way to set it so that only a certain amount of co2 is diffused into the water over an 8 hour period? Whats the deal with this? I'm confused because I feel like if I left the co2 on for 8 hours, which is what I have my timer set for, it would just pump all the co2 in the cylinder all into the tank over that 8 hours. I'm sure there's a way to set it so that only a certain amount goes in but how do you do it?

 

OK - you need a regulator too - that's what enables you to control the CO2. The solenoid is just a valve to turn it on and off. The regulator should have a needle valve and a bubble counter - fill the bubble counter 2/3 full of water and, with the solenoid open (ie turned on) adjust the needle valve until you get the right number if bubbles per second in the counter. How many is dependant on the size of tour aquarium. Start with one bubble per second and check CO2 level after a couple of hours. What items have you bought exactly?
Also run it from a separate timer to your lights - you need to start the CO2 a couple of hours before your lights come on to allow the CO2 to build up and turn it off an hour before the lights go off to wind it down for the dark period. CO2 will dissipate overnight - hence the need to start early the next day.

 

OK - you need a regulator too - that's what enables you to control the CO2. The solenoid is just a valve to turn it on and off. The regulator should have a needle valve and a bubble counter - fill the bubble counter 2/3 full of water and, with the solenoid open (ie turned on) adjust the needle valve until you get the right number if bubbles per second in the counter. How many is dependant on the size of tour aquarium. Start with one bubble per second and check CO2 level after a couple of hours. What items have you bought exactly?
Also run it from a separate timer to your lights - you need to start the CO2 a couple of hours before your lights come on to allow the CO2 to build up and turn it off an hour before the lights go off to wind it down for the dark period. CO2 will dissipate overnight - hence the need to start early the next day.

Yes, of course I’ve purchased a regulator too, the solenoid is built in and also the bubble counter. I’m not too sure about the needle thing though. I’ve also got a diffuser coming, a drop checker and yeah pretty much everything except the cylinder. I’m going to ask my dad about where to buy a cylinder for decent pricing and refills. Okay, so I kind of understand better now. So the regulator slowly over time will put as much co2 as you have set into the tank over a period of hours? So if I had it on for 8 hours, can I set the amount of co2 I need for that 8 hour period? Or should I have it on for a shorter period of time to save co2...

 

Your regulator will have a knob on it. It controls how quickly CO2 is released. You can visually measure this by looking at your bubble counter. When you turn the knob one way you will see more bubbles, when you turn it the other way you will see less. Turn your knob until you see roughly one bubble per second to start. Your solenoid which you connect to a timer simply closes a valve and blocks CO2 from coming through when it's off, and when the timer turns on the solenoids valve opens again allowing the amount of CO2 you previously set via the knob on the regulator back into the tank again.

You might want to just buy a separate timer to plug your solenoid into. They're only a few dollars. Typically you want to set the timer so CO2 comes on about an hour before the lights come one so CO2 can build up in the tank and is readily available as soon as the lights come on. You'll want to set the timer so the CO2 is turned off about an hour or so before lights turn off. That way the plants will absorb whatever CO2 is left in the aquarium and you don't have excess CO2 in your tank overnight. Plants only take in CO2 when lights are on.

 

Your regulator will have a knob on it. It controls how quickly CO2 is released. You can visually measure this by looking at your bubble counter. When you turn the knob one way you will see more bubbles, when you turn it the other way you will see less. Turn your knob until you see roughly one bubble per second to start. Your solenoid which you connect to a timer simply closes a valve and blocks CO2 from coming through when it's off, and when the timer turns on the solenoids valve opens again allowing the amount of CO2 you previously set via the knob on the regulator back into the tank again.

You might want to just buy a separate timer to plug your solenoid into. They're only a few dollars. Typically you want to set the timer so CO2 comes on about an hour before the lights come one so CO2 can build up in the tank and is readily available as soon as the lights come on. You'll want to set the timer so the CO2 is turned off about an hour or so before lights turn off. That way the plants will absorb whatever CO2 is left in the aquarium and you don't have excess CO2 in your tank overnight. Plants only take in CO2 when lights are on.

Wow, great info. I think I just about understand the gist of the whole co2 thing. Now I just have to wait till it comes to get started.

One more thing, how many hours do you recommend the co2 be on and how many hours do you recommend the lights be on? I have the lights currently on for 8 hours a day. Should I make the co2 the same?

 

Timings are something to work out for your tank! It's kind of a balancing act between CO2, fertilizers (if you have CO2 you need to make sure you have ferts) and lighting. You're looking for a sweet spot where you get good plant growth and minimum algae. Too much light can increase algae - CO2 swings too - that's why you turn your CO2 on early. We have our lights full on for 5 hours and then dimmed for the evening (tank is by the telly) so 8 hours full on is a good place to start. It took us a month or two when we started to work out what is good for us.
Once you start adding ferts be prepared for 50% water changes weekly to keep nitrates down.
Check your PH before adding CO2 - once you start it will drop by about one. Then your drop checker should have turned green. Look up "kh ph co2" in Google to find charts to help work out your actual CO2 levels.
Consider CO2 fire extinguishers as a CO2 source. They're cheap to refill (in the UK anyway) about 10 quid or 12 of your US dollars for 2kg CO2 which lasts 5 months in a 120 litre tank.
Lastly (I'm sure you already know but just for completeness!) make sure you use CO2 proof tubing not airline tubing. The latter will go brittle over time, and crack and leak. If the whole lot was bought as a kit you should be ok.
Here's our set up that usually lives behind the telly... and handy links too
CO2: Striking the balance

 

Excellent picture above to describe the basics of CO2 injection.

The red cylinder is where the CO2 is stored. Normally a gas, under pressure CO2 is a liquid. There is 800 to 1000 psI pressure inside the cylinder. That's a lot of pressure. The role of the regulator is to drop that pressure to a more reasonable one such as 20-40 psi. Part of the regulator share the same pressure as the cylinder (1000 psi), the other chamber has the lower pressure (working pressure). Some regulators allows to adjust the working pressure by turning the knob. The two gauges shows cylinder pressure and working pressure respectively.

After the regulator, is the solenoid. That's the only electrical part in the system (see the cord) and acts as on or off. When electricity flows, the solenoid opens the valve and allows CO2 trapped in the regulator to exit. When no electricity in the solenoid, the CO2 is shut off. When you plug the solenoid on a simple timer, you can open or close CO2 injection at certain times just like you do for the lights.

After the solenoid, you have the needle valve. The needle valve controls the flow (not the pressure). In the picture above, the needle valve is under the bubble counter and the knob on the left controls the number of bubbles per second visualized in the bubble counter. The clear tube at the top of the bubble counter leads to the diffuser (the device that further chops up the CO2 gas in smaller particles inside the tank water)

I thank KinderScout for sharing the picture.

 

Timings are something to work out for your tank! It's kind of a balancing act between CO2, fertilizers (if you have CO2 you need to make sure you have ferts) and lighting. You're looking for a sweet spot where you get good plant growth and minimum algae. Too much light can increase algae - CO2 swings too - that's why you turn your CO2 on early. We have our lights full on for 5 hours and then dimmed for the evening (tank is by the telly) so 8 hours full on is a good place to start. It took us a month or two when we started to work out what is good for us.
Once you start adding ferts be prepared for 50% water changes weekly to keep nitrates down.
Check your PH before adding CO2 - once you start it will drop by about one. Then your drop checker should have turned green. Look up "kh ph co2" in Google to find charts to help work out your actual CO2 levels.
Consider CO2 fire extinguishers as a CO2 source. They're cheap to refill (in the UK anyway) about 10 quid or 12 of your US dollars for 2kg CO2 which lasts 5 months in a 120 litre tank.
Lastly (I'm sure you already know but just for completeness!) make sure you use CO2 proof tubing not airline tubing. The latter will go brittle over time, and crack and leak. If the whole lot was bought as a kit you should be ok.
Here's our set up that usually lives behind the telly... and handy links too
CO2: Striking the balance

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I really appreciate you taking the time to give me you knowledge and experience with co2. Nice setup by the way, thanks for sharing. I think I understand the gist of it now, I will also give that co2 fire extinguisher thing a try. How often do you refill that fire extinguisher? And where would one buy something like that? Just a normal fire extinguisher cylinder and then have it filled with co2? Thanks you!

 

I'm in the UK - I bought three online from a fire protection shop. When one is empty, I take it back and swap it for a full one which is cheaper (and better for the environment!). It might be different in the US - look around online to start with. Make sure whatever cylinder you get fits your regulator though and, if not, whether you can get an adapter.

 

Also:

Ensure CO2 is dropping the pH of the tank water a full 1.0 – 1.2. To do this, measure the pH of tank water with no CO2 dissolved in it, and then measure again 2-3 hours after CO2 has been running. Ensure the drop in pH is a full 1.0-1.2. If the drop is not there yet, slowly up CO2 over a few weeks until at least a 1.0 drop is achieved, and watch fish / livestock carefully. Adjust CO2 down if you notice fish gasping at the surface and consider running an airstone at night when pushing a 1.2 or greater drop. For example, a tank water pH of 7.5 with no CO2 dissolved in it, should reach a pH of 6.5 – 6.3 for CO2 to really shine, and for maximum plant health.

Consistency in CO2 levels is key to plant health. Keep CO2 levels as stable as possible once a desirable level has been reached.

Cheap pH pen style probes that come with calibration fluid are an easy way to monitor this without drastic errors like the API liquid test kit.

 

Also:

Ensure CO2 is dropping the pH of the tank water a full 1.0 – 1.2. To do this, measure the pH of tank water with no CO2 dissolved in it, and then measure again 2-3 hours after CO2 has been running. Ensure the drop in pH is a full 1.0-1.2. If the drop is not there yet, slowly up CO2 over a few weeks until at least a 1.0 drop is achieved, and watch fish / livestock carefully. Adjust CO2 down if you notice fish gasping at the surface and consider running an airstone at night when pushing a 1.2 or greater drop. For example, a tank water pH of 7.5 with no CO2 dissolved in it, should reach a pH of 6.5 – 6.3 for CO2 to really shine, and for maximum plant health.

Consistency in CO2 levels is key to plant health. Keep CO2 levels as stable as possible once a desirable level has been reached.

Cheap pH pen style probes that come with calibration fluid are an easy way to monitor this without drastic errors like the API liquid test kit.

Okay, sounds good. I feel like starting slow is the best thing to do. Do you agree? A 1.0 drop in ph is kind of a lot imo. Should a heavily stocked tank receive co2 or is it risky business?

I'm in the UK - I bought three online from a fire protection shop. When one is empty, I take it back and swap it for a full one which is cheaper (and better for the environment!). It might be different in the US - look around online to start with. Make sure whatever cylinder you get fits your regulator though and, if not, whether you can get an adapter.

Okay, I can check online and if I can't find anything I will get a normal cylinder. I am getting the same regulator you have in the mail. When I bought it online it looks the same, hopefully it will fit whatever cylinder I get.

 

Okay, sounds good. I feel like starting slow is the best thing to do. Do you agree? A 1.0 drop in ph is kind of a lot imo. Should a heavily stocked tank receive co2 or is it risky business?

If your PH drops sharply due to CO2 don't fret - it will swing on a daily basis once you get going. There is a relationship between you KH and PH and CO2. For many if they're not injecting CO2 a sudden change in PH is a symptom of a swing in KH - it's that that stresses and kills your fish. If your KH is constant (as it probably will be) Yyou can add CO2 and drop your PH by one point in just a day usually without harming your fish. Just don't let PH drop below 6.4 ish or you risk stalling your cycle.
I went through all of this early on believe me - so stressfull! CO2 is pretty safe to add it turns out - just take a couple of days to get it to the right level.

 

If your PH drops sharply due to CO2 don't fret - it will swing on a daily basis once you get going. There is a relationship between you KH and PH and CO2. For many if they're not injecting CO2 a sudden change in PH is a symptom of a swing in KH - it's that that stresses and kills your fish. If your KH is constant (as it probably will be) Yyou can add CO2 and drop your PH by one point in just a day usually without harming your fish. Just don't let PH drop below 6.4 ish or you risk stalling your cycle.
I went through all of this early on believe me - so stressfull! CO2 is pretty safe to add it turns out - just take a couple of days to get it to the right level.

Okay, I don't have a kh test so that kind of concerns me. I wish the API test kit came with one. That would make things easier. Its interesting though because I didn't know how important kh was. In fact I don't even know what kh stands for. But, I will look into it further and master this concept, hopefully without harming any fish. Fingers crossed I can experiment and get things right without any issues.[/QUOTE]

 

Okay, I don't have a kh test so that kind of concerns me. I wish the API test kit came with one. That would make things easier. Its interesting though because I didn't know how important kh was. In fact I don't even know what kh stands for. But, I will look into it further and master this concept, hopefully without harming any fish. Fingers crossed I can experiment and get things right without any issues.

GH is general hardness and KH is carbonate hardness - something to google - don't worry too much though for now. Test your tap water as a baseline for everything else. KH will only change if you add carbonate containing minerals to the water like limestone, or ground shells or ground coral. Some people do add these to get the water perfect for their fish. Maybe get some Tetra Test Strips - they have GH and KH tests to give you a rough idea and will be good enough to check the difference between tap and tank water. Since your tank water will probably have constant KH and since you are getting a CO2 drop checker, sticking roughly to a one unit drop in PH will be OK to guage how much VO2 you need.

 

Do not use the kH / pH / CO2 relationship chart, it is not accurate and using the pH drop method is a much easier way to express how much CO2 you are injecting.

That chart relies on kH only be affected by carbonate hardness - our tanks have more that just carbonates affecting kH causing the inaccuracy of the chart.

1.0 drop is actually on the low end of "optimal" CO2 concentrations. You can likely get to a 1.2 or 1.3 drop in pH before your fish will start gasping at the surface. So work up to 1.0 slowly over a week, and then fine tune it slightly higher watching your fish closely. If they start to gasp at the surface, dial the CO2 back slightly until a balance is reached between at least a 1.0 drop up to just before fish start showing distress, usually only takes 2 tries.

For example, my last tank was moderate / moderate heavily stocked, degassed pH of 7.1 (remineralized RO water), kH of ~ 1 degrees, pH drop to 5.9 was where my tank was most happy, at 5.8 the fish started gasping.

Consider running an airstone in a timer to run at night only when pushing CO2 levels to the higher end (1.2 / 1.3 drop).

I've seen tanks with livestock at a 1.4 drop without issues, heavily stocked, high valued fish at that.

No issue with heavy fish load vs light fish load, just keep an eye on them when you are fine tuning the CO2 (above a 1.0 drop).

 

Do not use the kH / pH / CO2 relationship chart, it is not accurate and using the pH drop method is a much easier way to express how much CO2 you are injecting.

That chart relies on kH only be affected by carbonate hardness - our tanks have more that just carbonates affecting kH causing the inaccuracy of the chart.

1.0 drop is actually on the low end of "optimal" CO2 concentrations. You can likely get to a 1.2 or 1.3 drop in pH before your fish will start gasping at the surface. So work up to 1.0 slowly over a week, and then fine tune it slightly higher watching your fish closely. If they start to gasp at the surface, dial the CO2 back slightly until a balance is reached between at least a 1.0 drop up to just before fish start showing distress, usually only takes 2 tries.

For example, my last tank was moderate / moderate heavily stocked, degassed pH of 7.1 (remineralized RO water), kH of ~ 1 degrees, pH drop to 5.9 was where my tank was most happy, at 5.8 the fish started gasping.

Consider running an airstone in a timer to run at night only when pushing CO2 levels to the higher end (1.2 / 1.3 drop).

I've seen tanks with livestock at a 1.4 drop without issues, heavily stocked, high valued fish at that.

No issue with heavy fish load vs light fish load, just keep an eye on them when you are fine tuning the CO2 (above a 1.0 drop).

You not wrong per se, but the chart is useful to give an idea of the PH to aI'm for - for example I had to drop my PH by 1.5 to get to the right level - the chart in my case coincides with the drop checker so all good - the drop checker is key you are right but the charts at least give you a ball park to aI'm for. It's always good to know a little about what causes parameters to change and what parameters are dependent on others - that's also why it's a good idea to test your source water. aidanfish2002 don't fret to much about all this - it's all tools for your skillset nothing more. You're obviously doing OK as you've had your aquarium up for a year or more! ChanyI as you say a week is a good place to start - no need to rush.

 

You not wrong per se, but the chart is useful to give an idea of the PH to aI'm for - for example I had to drop my PH by 1.5 to get to the right level - the chart in my case coincides with the drop checker so all good - the drop checker is key you are right but the charts at least give you a ball park to aI'm for.

I disagree that the drop checker is key. The drop checker is a pH indicator... pH drops 1.0 = light green, happy drop checker = ~ 30ppm CO2.

But yes, ballpark figure at best using the chart. When you start to get into super low kH tanks the chart goes fubar.

Us planted tank folks are trying to get more people weened onto using pH drop as a way to describe CO2 concentrations, seems fairly simple and will work for any tank really.

There is a formula floating around the internet somewhere showing a 1.0 drop in pH = 30ppm CO2 +/- 1 or 2 ppm.

But, seems higher kH tanks can drop it 1.5 / 1.6 before fish start showing distress, so a little work is needed yet

Got to love working with hobby grade testing equipment and one size fits all is a sin in the planted tank world.

 

I have two planted tanks and I want to inject co2 in a 20 gallon and a 29 gallon tank. I mainly am getting the co2 for the 20 gallon long but I think that the 29 gallon tank could also use co2. I don't want to pay for two different co2 systems running on both. I just want to know how I would go about injecting co2 on both tanks every day. I'm not experienced with co2 but I am getting a cylinder of co2 soon and I have everything else I need - drop checker, co2 tubing, diffuser, and regulator. I have it all just not the cylinder. If I need to I will purchase another drop checker and also another diffuser to make injecting everyday easier. Then I can have a drop checker in both tanks and then two diffusers setup in both tanks so that I can just connect the tubing to the diffuser and then inject. Does co2 need to be slowly injected over a period of hours or can I just inject all at once or maybe over a period of 30 mins? I need someone to explain this stuff because everyone else I have talked to seems to keep one co2 system on a light timer and have it inject automatically all throughout the day (which I could also do because my regulator has built in solenoid and I have light timers).

 

Plants use up a lot of CO2 for growth when your lights are on and give out a little when it's dark. Water also naturally loses a lot of CO2 at the surface (called 'offgassing').
Put your solenoid on a timer. Set your CO2 to come on two hours before your lights come on and go off an hour before your lights. You want a constant level of CO2 in your aquarium whilst the lights are on. Your don't want to inject whilst it's dark as the plants won't use it and levels will become toxic. While its dark, your tank will lose CO2 - you want to build it up each day so your drop checker is green when your lights come on.
You need to first start your CO2 in the lit period slowly - about 1 bubble per second per tank - and keep an eye on your drop checker and your PH. After a couple of hours, check your drop checker - if it's still blue or blue-green increase your bubble count to two per second. Also check your PH as CO2 will cause it to drop - your initially looking fir a drop of about 1point. Keep an eye on the drop checker and, after an hour again if it's not green increase the bubble count slightly - repeat until the drop checker is bright green and your PH has dropped by 1 - 1.2. If at any time it goes past green and starts to go yellow, dial back your bubble count slightly straight away- green is what you're aiming for. Also keep an eye on your fish - if they start to look stressed at the surface dial back your CO2.
Once your drop checks has been green for an hour and not changed your bubble count is set. Keep an eye on things over the next few days to make adjustments it's for example, your tank is in a room with a window. Be prepared to take a few days to get it right.
If your CO2 levels vary whilst your lights are on, your plants won't grow well but algae will! Thar's the main reason to put the initial work in to keep your CO2 levels stable - to avoid excessive algae.
As for running g two tanks - if you have a quality regulator you may be able to get a dual output manifold for it to run two separate lines not sure.
I've put a link to a George Farmer stream on YouTube - it's a bit clunky cost it was live but will give you an idea.

 

Plants use up a lot of CO2 for growth when your lights are on and give out a little when it's dark. Water also naturally loses a lot of CO2 at the surface (called 'offgassing').
Put your solenoid on a timer. Set your CO2 to come on two hours before your lights come on and go off an hour before your lights. You want a constant level of CO2 in your aquarium whilst the lights are on. Your don't want to inject whilst it's dark as the plants won't use it and levels will become toxic. While its dark, your tank will lose CO2 - you want to build it up each day so your drop checker is green when your lights come on.
You need to first start your CO2 in the lit period slowly - about 1 bubble per second per tank - and keep an eye on your drop checker and your PH. After a couple of hours, check your drop checker - if it's still blue or blue-green increase your bubble count to two per second. Also check your PH as CO2 will cause it to drop - your initially looking fir a drop of about 1point. Keep an eye on the drop checker and, after an hour again if it's not green increase the bubble count slightly - repeat until the drop checker is bright green and your PH has dropped by 1 - 1.2. If at any time it goes past green and starts to go yellow, dial back your bubble count slightly straight away- green is what you're aiming for. Also keep an eye on your fish - if they start to look stressed at the surface dial back your CO2.
Once your drop checks has been green for an hour and not changed your bubble count is set. Keep an eye on things over the next few days to make adjustments it's for example, your tank is in a room with a window. Be prepared to take a few days to get it right.
If your CO2 levels vary whilst your lights are on, your plants won't grow well but algae will! Thar's the main reason to put the initial work in to keep your CO2 levels stable - to avoid excessive algae.
As for running g two tanks - if you have a quality regulator you may be able to get a dual output manifold for it to run two separate lines not sure.
I've put a link to a George Farmer stream on YouTube - it's a bit clunky cost it was live but will give you an idea.

Thanks for the info. I've seen that some people inject the days worth of co2 at once. Is this not a thing? Just injecting once and then leaving that tank alone and injecting another? I swear i've seen youtube videos with people doing it. I will definitely come back and read this once I get my cylinder and then do what you said to do.

 

Hello aid...

Are you certain your plants need added CO2? There's plenty for most aquarium plants in the surrounding air. CO2 is pricey and can be tricky to set up. Unless you're keeping plants that require very strong light, you probably don't need it.

Just a thought,

Old

 

not seen that and it wouldn't work for the following reasons if you have livestock -
1. to last plants all day you'd need to inject so much over a short period and put concentration so high that you'd kill your fish (some aquascapers do have tanks with super high CO2 but they don't have livestock. Some professionaks use this method to get a tank ready quickly for a show or competition, then reduce CO2 and add the fish just beforehand.
2. If you push your CO2 really high and then stop it will offgas quicker - you'll have huge swings in CO2 and the plants won't be able to cope with the CO2 swings. That lets algae take hold instead.
3. Ultra high levels of CO2 may kill your filter bacteria too kicking off a cycle.

One of the golden rules of CO2 injection is keep it stable during lit periods - algae takes hold in an unstable tank.

 

Inject a ton of Co2 will drive all the air out of the water and gas and kill your fish.


You use a manifold system like above to control the Co2 in each aquarium


GLA PRO-DS-3 Aquarium CO2 Regulator (Dual Stage) (Modular)

 

Hello aid...

Are you certain your plants need added CO2? There's plenty for most aquarium plants in the surrounding air. CO2 is pricey and can be tricky to set up. Unless you're keeping plants that require very strong light, you probably don't need it.

Just a thought,

Old

You're not wrong about tricky - it took us about two months to get the balance right between CO2, lights and ferts. It can be expensive to set up properly but there are cheap sources of CO2 (well in the UK anyway). Here a 2kg CO2 fire extinguisher lasts me 5 months in a 120 litre aquarium and costs only 10 quid (about twelve if your US dollars) per refill - that's only two quid a month.

 

Hello aid...

Are you certain your plants need added CO2? There's plenty for most aquarium plants in the surrounding air. CO2 is pricey and can be tricky to set up. Unless you're keeping plants that require very strong light, you probably don't need it.

Just a thought,

Old

I want co2. I want my plants to grow fast, full and explode in my tank. My plants grow, but I want them to grow even better. I personally don't find co2 pricey btw. Diffusers last a long time, drop checkers last a long time, regulators last a long time and I don't think I'll stop keeping tanks anytime soon.

 

I want co2. I want my plants to grow fast, full and explode in my tank. My plants grow, but I want them to grow even better. I personally don't find co2 pricey btw. Diffusers last a long time, drop checkers last a long time, regulators last a long time and I don't think I'll stop keeping tanks anytime soon.

jeez you're already hooked before even starting!

 

jeez you're already hooked before even starting!

Hooked for life! Best hobby by far. But, my wallet is paying a price lol.