I'm doing water changes wrong. Can I get some advice on doing better?

I'm having some trouble with water changes. My last water change was 40% and was done via submerging (cleaned out behforehand) gallon jugs until they fill then emptying them outside and repeat for water removal and then filling them via tap, adding conditioner, and pouring into the tank.
I don't really have a method for temp-matching the water. I just do my best to estimate the temperature out of the faucet. Checking the tank temp after my latest water change I've found I'm going to need to actually properly temp match, the tank had heated by 7F from the new water.
I'm not strong. I can just barely lift a full 5 gallon bucket but I've got an electric pump so the 5 gallon is useable. Short of getting a garden hose I need to lug water halfway across my house to get from kitchen sink to aquarium.
I would gravel vac instead of bailing with gallon jugs but my gravel vac currently has an air leak resulting in an inability to get a usable amount of suction from it.

 

Can u start a siphon with a piece of hose and put it out a window near the tank? or even better would be to invest in either a Python or Aqueon water changer you hook to your sink. The easiest thing to use IMO and you can temp match the water with your faucet.

 

I use clear hose to drain straight out to the garden I put a spray bar on the end in the tank to stop fish getting sucked in I learnt the hard way (RIP Lemon). As it comes out the hose I use it to clean any filter media. Once I get it down to 50% I put a large bucket 16gal on my kitchen bench and fill this with normal buckets of water treated from the sink and turn on the pump I just top it up as it gets lower. I usually make my water as close as possible to the tank but if anything slightly cooler as your heater will warm it up and it will induce spawning behaviour as it replicates heavy rain fall in the natural environment.

 

I would get a new vac or repair the one you've got. As well as cleaning the gravel it removes the water from the bottom of the tank where all the waste settles. As for temp matching I make my new water up in buckets 10 liters at a time. If you have a copper heating tank don't use hot tap water, use cold tap water and some heated in the kettle. Use a thermometer to add the right amount of boiling water to the bucket. Then dechlorinate and add anything you add with the water. Just add to the tank with a jug

 

I would see if you can invest in getting a Python Vacuum they take all the hard work out of doing water changes

 

As Dennis57 suggested, the Python is a game changer for water changes. Amazon.com: python aquarium vacuum

 

Get a replacement hose at the hardware store for the gravel vac. If it’s the type I’m thinking of you should easily be able to find tubing that will work. If you can’t lift a full 5gal then fill it half way. Also, when adding water back in, it’s easier to use small buckets than jugs. I use ~1.5gal buckets to dip water from a 5gal into the tank. Try not to pour the water back in but instead set the full bucket in the tank then tip it over and remove, this lesses stress.

I have most my tanks in the basement with no faucet nor drain. In the average week about 160gals goes up/down the stairs. Water changes are my workout!

 

Get a replacement hose at the hardware store for the gravel vac. If it’s the type I’m thinking of you should easily be able to find tubing that will work. If you can’t lift a full 5gal then fill it half way. Also, when adding water back in, it’s easier to use small buckets than jugs. I use ~1.5gal buckets to dip water from a 5gal into the tank. Try not to pour the water back in but instead set the full bucket in the tank then tip it over and remove, this lesses stress.

I have most my tanks in the basement with no faucet nor drain. In the average week about 160gals goes up/down the stairs. Water changes are my workout!

Here's any idea for you, you have water lines down stairs why don't you ( or have some one ) cut in 2 hose faucets 1 on the cold 1 on the hot, then you can fill the tanks a lot easier.

 

Something slightly different to think about.. how often do you need to water change? The best way I've seen to test this is testing nitrates over a period of time, (hopefully starting from zero) without any water changes - once you've figured out how quickly it rises, you'll know how often you need to change the water. Of course, you might need to re-do the math if you add/remove fish or plants.

 

In theory this could work but you maths is out as unless you do a 100% water change your residual levels will continue to rise.
eg. If your levels are 10 you do a 50% water change and your levels would be 5 (assuming that your tap is 0) so by next water change your levels will be 15, 50% change and your levels will be 7.5 etc.

So to maintain you would need to do 50% weekly and every 3rd or 4th week do a 75% change.

 

Here's any idea for you, you have water lines down stairs why don't you ( or have some one ) cut in 2 hose faucets 1 on the cold 1 on the hot, then you can fill the tanks a lot easier.

Nah, don’t wanna have to set aside time for an actual workout. Better to clean the tanks and work up a sweat, two birds one stone

 

Something slightly different to think about.. how often do you need to water change? The best way I've seen to test this is testing nitrates over a period of time, (hopefully starting from zero) without any water changes - once you've figured out how quickly it rises, you'll know how often you need to change the water. Of course, you might need to re-do the math if you add/remove fish or plants.

I'm reducing Nitrate in a bit to save my surviving guppies. It's working but it is a lot of work. Just got a reading just a bit redder than 20ppm on my API after it's been 40-80 (nobody I know can tell the difference between the two) since I first introduced them to the tank. I will be changing water based on test results once I'm sure my guppies are safe.

 

I'm reducing Nitrate in a bit to save my surviving guppies. It's working but it is a lot of work. Just got a reading just a bit redder than 20ppm on my API after it's been 40-80 (nobody I know can tell the difference between the two) since I first introduced them to the tank. I will be changing water based on test results once I'm sure my guppies are safe.

A 50-75% WC weekly will remove all doubts of any water parameter issues IMO. It's what I do to 7 tanks and never have any sick fish issues. Be sure to add Prime when you do your WC to detoxify any ammonia or nitrites.

 

Every week I do 75% water change in my 4 tanks, not only is it better for the fish but also all my live plants, look better grow better with clean fresh water. ( would you want to drink a glass of water that was sitting around inside or outside the house for 7 days? ) I didn't think so

 

I would see if you can invest in getting a Python Vacuum they take all the hard work out of doing water changes

Thanks. Took a look at the Python stuff.
I don't believe I understand how it's suppose to work... I can't figure out how the suction would be generated with this system as opposed to a normal gravel vac.

 

Thanks. Took a look at the Python stuff.
I don't believe I understand how it's suppose to work... I can't figure out how the suction would be generated with this system as opposed to a normal gravel vac.

When you use these on larger tanks the pressure from the faucet ( or the outside hose spigot ) removes the water a lot faster. It also puts the water back into the tank without carrying many buckets

 

When you use these on larger tanks the pressure from the faucet ( or the outside hose spigot ) removes the water a lot faster. It also puts the water back into the tank without carrying many buckets

Okay. Still not entirely sure how the faucet is suppose to generate suction but I can see there being some way to make it happen. So with a system like this you just add conditioner to the tank after a water change?

 

Okay. Still not entirely sure how the faucet is suppose to generate suction but I can see there being some way to make it happen. So with a system like this you just add conditioner to the tank after a water change?

The pressure from the water going through the Python makes a suction on the other end. I add my Seachem Safe as I am adding the water back into the tank

 

The pressure from the water going through the Python makes a suction on the other end. I add my Seachem Safe as I am adding the water back into the tank

Okay, thank you.

 

The pressure from the water going through the Python makes a suction on the other end. I add my Seachem Safe as I am adding the water back into the tank

Precisely, it’s called the VenturI effect

 

Something slightly different to think about.. how often do you need to water change? The best way I've seen to test this is testing nitrates over a period of time, (hopefully starting from zero) without any water changes - once you've figured out how quickly it rises, you'll know how often you need to change the water. Of course, you might need to re-do the math if you add/remove fish or plants.

Sorry, but I have to disagree. Water changes aren’t only to keep nitrates down, but also to replace minerals in the water that are lost.