ick suggestions for catfish (scaleless)

Discussion in 'Freshwater Fish Disease' started by jim55379, Feb 14, 2006.

  1. jim55379Valued MemberMember

    Hello I recently purchased 3 pictus catifsh for my 20 gallon.  I was going to buy some tiger barbs but they were out. A lot of the tanks I saw had white spot in them but I took  a chance and bought these fish anyway since this place has 90 day warranty on fish.  I cycled tank for about 5-6 days before I put in fish and added that cycle bacteria stuff.  When I put them in the water they were swimming at the top like maybe they were stressed.  I did a test before and as usual the ph was slightly high and ammonia was good.  Anyway I noticed they had the white spot.  so tried some new medication.  It has malchinte green with formeldahide. I am hoping the formeldahide may kill the ick quicker.  I tried the malchite green before and killed them (fish).  I should have turned up heater but the 50 watt could barely keep it at 74. I have since purchased a 100 watt.  I found out later I should have halfed the dosage for scaless fish.  I notice a lot of the medication doesn't give very good directions.  They don't say if a partial change is required or not.  Or I will notice that it will give better instruction on the throw away container that it was packaged in.  The bottle won't tell you near as much detail.  I turned the heater up to a little past 80 degrees and this morning also added some of that jungle lab tablets for secondary infections.  I am thinking about possibly adding salt at a later date.  Anyone have any info about how much to add for catfish/per gallon. Any other tips I can do?  Should I turn up the heater more?  I also bought one of those stick areators.  I used to use only the power filter.  Those stick things are great.  They stick on the wall with suction cups and really pour out the bubbles.  One poor catfish swims around in that current all the time.  I think it helps scratch his itch (ick).  What is the actual temp that kills ick?  I know they stop breeding at about 78?  This site has really helped me a lot.  I am learning more every day.   ??? ???  At least I think I am.  I will see if these fish survive.

  2. EmpPlecoWell Known MemberMember

    The temperature has to be gradually raised and held consistent at about 85 for a few days. I am not really sure what to tell you medication wise because I really try not to use these chemicals in my tank, but I have tried the Jungle brand ick tablets before ( when I first started, and I found they did no good IMO) You could usually add a small amt of aquarium salt for ick, but with scaleless fish, im not sure that they would take too well to that, so it may do more harm than good.

    IF you don't mind, please tell us what exact numbers you have for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.. Anything above 0 for ammonia and nitrite and anything above 35-40 ppm is harmful for your fish, and you will have to start doing more regular water changes to keep these levels down.

  3. JonWell Known MemberMember

    its best to keep nitrate below 10

    dont give them salt baths or add salt... salt kills any scaleless fish instantly

  4. fish_r_friendWell Known MemberMember

    i use jungle labs ich tablets and my tanks had ich twice
  5. newbie101Well Known MemberMember

    wow you are having bad luck :-\ poor fish...my fish have never had ich, but it seems inevitable for you...Did the cats die?
  6. fish_r_friendWell Known MemberMember

    when my tanks had it 5 fish that i have had have died from it
  7. EmpPlecoWell Known MemberMember

    sorry to hear that :'(
  8. jim55379Valued MemberMember

    No Emma not yet. I had temperature at 80 and used some differnt medicine and they were doing ok. I kicked heater up to 82 and they didn't eat this morning. I did a partial 25% change and put in some tablet jungle labs for after ick healing for fungus and secondary infections. I may have to turn the water down tonight to 80. That ick medicine really seeems to be working most of the spots are gone. This is something new that has malchite green and formaldahide n it. I think I will do another 25% change tonight and if they aren't eating I will have to lower temp back to 80. I think if I put it at 85 I would have a catfish fry. My heater is close to maxed out anyway. Don't know if it would get any hotter unless I added a spare 50 watt heater that I have. I am using a 100 right now.
  9. jim55379Valued MemberMember

    A bath may kill them but how about like a couple of tablesppons for 20 gal tank? I don't know either so will play it safe and no salt for now. Thanks for the reply
  10. jim55379Valued MemberMember

    Yeah fisher friend those jungle lab tablets I think are nothing more than food coloring for the water. Malchite green with the formeldahide works but I half the dose for catfish and Tetras. I am using some of those jungle lab tablets and don't know if they are any good either. I use half dosage but they really turn the water greenish/blue.
  11. jim55379Valued MemberMember

    I forgot to specify the jungle lab tabs that I am current also using are for the secondary infections. Well I will say a prayer and hope they will make it. ??? 8)
  12. jim55379Valued MemberMember

  13. dahlyValued MemberMember

    I'd be careful adding too many chemicals and confussing the situation. When I had ick in my 29, I use Nox-Ich, which has Mal. green in it. The directions said to use it for three consecutive days, stop for a day and do a water change, then repeat if the Ick was not gone. It also said use only half doses when scaleless fish are present. I also turned the temp up to 80 degrees. The spots dropped off after the first day and I did as directed for the 3 days. I've not had an ick problem since. :D

    Good luck!
  14. chickadeeFishlore VIPMember

    According to the fine folks at Aquarium Pharmaceuticals the temperature has to be 85 for the parasite to go freeswimming and leave the fish. Then the medication, if you use any can kill it. As long as it remains on the fish NOTHING will kill it. The temperature being up to 85 for a week at least may take care of the problem even without medication a lot of the time since the parasite won't attach to another fish at that temperature and will die without a host. But the number is not a matter of opinion, it has to be 85 degrees. I am so sorry about your fish.

  15. EmpPlecoWell Known MemberMember

    Yeah I would definately try to avoid giving the tank any more medication than it has already received, because scaleless (armorless) fish, are extremely sensitive to chemicals. Even a small amt, (if prolonged) could really upset them
  16. jim55379Valued MemberMember

    ok thanks guys... I think tonight I will do a partial change 25% but with no chemicalsexcept for chlorine conditioner and turn up the temp and see how they react. Thanks I agree with trying not to use chemicals. I don't think they like it... :eek: ::)
  17. jim55379Valued MemberMember

    I heard that in approximately 3 days the parasite will fall off and then they release eggs or something into the water. I have seen it. It looks like a jelly like substance almost like a possible fish dropping. Yes at this point chemicals may do more harm than good. If the fish quit eating and don't start soon I know too well the outcome............ :( :-\ :'( ???

  18. EmpPlecoWell Known MemberMember

  19. dahlyValued MemberMember

    Tolmites are what is released into the water. Raising the tank temp kills them off. Once the spots are gone and the temp has been a 80 or better for 2-3 days more, the ick should be over. Stress is what causes ich in the first place, as apparently the fish carry the parasite in a dormant condition until stressed. Good luck and keep us posted!
  20. JonWell Known MemberMember

    you asked if you could add a couple of tablespoons of salt? i beleive you said you had scaleless fish right?

    dont add any salt salt is extremely harsh on scaleless fish and will kill them in small doses... i have heard mixed reviews but i have never seen someone add salt to a scaleless tank and be happy with the results

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