ick question

TropicalExplorer

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Hey there I was wondering if my pepper corys and bristlenose are being affected from the raised temperature of the water or from the ick itself. I have lost 4 of my 7 corys and my pleco is trying to climb out of the water. I had been treating with an herbal ick treatment for the past 5 days doing 1/3water changes everyday. They seemed fine until I finally got the water temp up to 86. any thoughts?
 

Jaysee

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I treat all new fish for ich while in quarantine, but one thing I NEVER do is combine treatments. The heat alone works - no other treatment is needed, it doesn't need help.

There are any number of reasons why the fish have died - many having nothing to do with what you think.

86 is warm, but it's not that warm. Over 90 would be a concern for the fish's health.
 

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Keep up the water changes - maybe increase them to 50% - and vacuum the gravel.

Slowly reduce the temp a little and keep an eye on it. You need to find a balance between the temperature you need to treat ich and the temperature your fish can tolerate and also for how long. IDK that I'd maintain the 86 degrees. The info here re: ich says 82 to 86F. (https://www.fishlore.com/aquariummagazine/nov07/ich-fish-disease.htm)

If the fish are seemingly trying to get out of the tank, do a significant water change right away. You'll want to try to match the current water temperature.

BTW, are you using a Kordon product? (Since you mentioned herbal...) Are you using any other medications?
 

Jaysee

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In my experience 86 is a minimum. I haven't found a fish yet that couldn't handle it.

Not all strains of ich are the same. Some can handle higher temps than others, which is why it's important set it high enough to take care of all but the strains with the highest resistance ( which require 90).


I agree though, absolutely do a water change. Any time your fish start acting weird, a water change is the first thing you should do. If you have stuff in the water, then throw in some carbon to get it out.
 
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TropicalExplorer

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ok thanks I was gonna stop the herbal ick stuff tonight anyways since I finally got a new heater that will heat to 88 degrees since my old one couldn't get over 81 turned all the way up so I can now do proper heat treatments and put my carbon back in. Thanks I just wanted to make sure the heat wasn't what was doing it. I added a air stone and put my old HOB filter on to help agitate the water currently running a canister filter also.
 

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TropicalExplorer said:
its not kordon its a petco brand no ingredients listed. I was also using stress coat to try and help with the fin damage
You said the ingredients are not listed. Cory's and pleco do not have scales and can't have a full dose of some meds and others not at all. Just me I'm no expert but I don't think I would trust any med that does not state what is in it. About a month ago I treated for ich I have cory's and a BN and I used 1/2 dose of Quick Cure from walmart it is a cheap one not an impressive brand name or anything but gives the dose for scaleless fish and worked great for me.
 

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Jaysee - I totally respect your advice from the perspective of your experience. With my loaches, though, I've found they can't take 85+F for more than 4-5 days. You mention 90F to kill the resistive strains. For how long would you need to maintain that temp to be effective?
 

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When I have used medications, quick cure always did the job. It's my preferred ich medication.
 

Jaysee

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I have zebra loaches at 88 right now - just about done the treatment. Dojos, kuhlis, zebras, angelicus - they've all done it. Some loaches actually prefer such warm water, such as clowns.

2 weeks is the treatment, no matter the temp. Only once have I ever had 86 not work - 90 did the trick, so the fish spent 2 weeks at 86 and then 2 more at 90.

I just checked the QT and it's at 90. Probably creeped up a little from evaporation. No matter, the treatment is over.
 
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TropicalExplorer

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That's really interesting I've never had a ick outbreak before I guess I have been really lucky that's why I was asking about then temps since I have never keep anyone over 78 before. Oh and some of the corys seem to be doing better since the water change I just did.
 

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I don't ever use aeration when doing a heat treatment, even at 90. The filters provide enough surface disruption to facilitate the gas exchange. However, if your filtration is on the weak side then maybe that's something you need to look into. That could be a reason for the fish being at the top of the tank. Ammonia is another thing that will drive them to the surface.
 
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TropicalExplorer

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its a fluval 305 in a 29 gallon tank so I really don't think my filter is the problem but every where else says to add air stones and what not and with the way the output of the canister is called to be in the water it never seems to provide a lot of surface movement
 

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I think you should pull the nozzle up a little higher to make some ripples on the surface.
 

Jaysee

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I keep all of my spraybars near the surface. If you had it 7 inches below the surface, a lack of oxygen could have been it. If that was the problem, that would explain why they all got better with the water change.
 
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TropicalExplorer

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cool well thanks for the help hopefully fixing the output will do the trick and the heat will work
 

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