Ich Troubles

Discussion in 'Freshwater Fish Disease' started by Fal, Aug 5, 2017.

  1. FalValued MemberMember

    Hi, so the inevitable has happened. As i am not able to have a QT, I am dealing with ich for the first time.

    So far only my red phantoms have been effected and I believe it to be in the very early stages. I certainly didn't notice them yesterday.

    I would like to know the best way to go about treating them.

    Thanks everyone :)

  2. KinsKicksFishlore VIPMember


    It sounds like you caught it early which will make it hopefully easier to tackle. What are the other fish or inverts in the tank? Chances are if one fish has ich, there is a good chance that the other can catch it as well, so it's best to do a whole tank treatment.

  3. FalValued MemberMember


    Yes, I'm super lucky that i got a good look at ich in a pet store the other day. I'm hoping it has saved the day.

    I have red and black phantom tetras, a german blue ram, a pearl gourami and a bristlenose catfish.

  4. KinsKicksFishlore VIPMember

    -Do a large water change(40-50%) and make sure to do a substrate vac to remove as many tomites as possible.
    -dose 1tsp aquarium salt for every gallon.
    -do 40-50% water changes everyday (substrate vacs) and dose the right amount of salt for how much water your adding for 3-4 days, up to a week at the most (any longer can make it difficult on the plecos) If they look better, you can stop the salt and do smaller partial water changes everyday to decrease salt concentration and ween them off.
    - Gradually raise your temp up to 85-88 by a degree or two every hour (as not to shock the fish) to kill off the tomites and keep it there for 2 (the ideal of 3 ) weeks to make sure the   is gone
    - add an airstone. High temps mean less oxygen and you'll have to compensate. This is also for helping them if the parasite has infected the fils by chance in which breathing can be more difficult so the presence of more oxygen will make the difference.

    You can dose a bit of paraguard, but you'll need to remove your carbon and be extra wary about the oxygen in the tank. But try the salt first; especially in the early stages, salt is usually very effective

    Hope this helps!
  5. OnTheFlyWell Known MemberMember

    Heat or Meds are your choice. Both methods work. I am a Paraguard fan because it is gentle and works quickly when you catch it early. There are many other effective ich Meds. Don't combine excessive heat and Meds. As Kinkicks said salt is also effective, but that depends on the species in the tank. Some species do not like to be salted.
  6. FalValued MemberMember

    Thanks so much! Thats a really good explanation on how to use salt. Now that ive been sitting here for a while, i can see them on the blacks too, just not many and two of them are flashing.

    How to go about supplying enough oxygen if i went the meds method? I will be picking up an airstone when i get what i need tomorrow.

    Thanks a lot! I am undecided haha, but thanks for the reminder not to mix. I am a little concerned about my plec, but also uncertain of how far along is early enough for paraguard?
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 5, 2017
  7. OnTheFlyWell Known MemberMember

    An airstone will help. It's more necessary with heat method. Most tetras don't like salt treatment. What all is in this tank?

    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 5, 2017
  8. FalValued MemberMember

    Tetras, gbr cichlid, pearl gourami and the cat. At a guess i would think to be concerned about the gbr too, but im not certain. Do u think it would be worth doing a water change today- i wont be starting any treatment til tomorrow
  9. NavigatorBlackFishlore VIPMember

    I hate salt for Ich. It is a harsh skin irritant, and tough to remove. It is harmful in the longterm to the rainforest fish you have, especially the ram and phantoms, as it is a chemical alien to their natural environment.
    It isn't natural for them. For livebearers, it's great.
    So if you are going to be unnatural anyway, use a malachite green med (any one) as it is very effective (more than salt) and very easy to remove after. But move quickly. The key to killing this parasite is speed of reaction. The longer it feeds, the more damage it does.
    I don't use the heat method, as while it works 90% of the time, it is also very hard on the fish and plants. I have a number of fish that would never recover from 10 days at 86f. When I see Ich, I use the quickest, simplest method, kill it, clean up and move on. I have not lost one fish to Ich in the last 20 years.
  10. dcutl002Well Known MemberMember

  11. FalValued MemberMember

    That's settled then. I shall med the tank :)
    I think it will be about 12hrs til the store opens, do u think they will be ok til then?

    Red at back is the worst, if u can see that clearly? They never stay still.

    Even my catfish? I thought u could stress fish by raising the temp higher than what they can handle? And im already at its max.

    Also...it might solve my snail issue if i med? (Assasins are illegal here )
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 14, 2017
  12. dcutl002Well Known MemberMember

    Yeah, they will be OK till the store opens. Most meds that I have seen recommend raising the temperature to 28 C (82 degrees F), so you could raise the temp to 28 C while you are waiting on the store to open.

    I used it with my Cory's. Choose your poison, heat or meds...both will stress the fish and I have used both methods. The bottom line is eradicating the ICH before it kills the fish. I am unsure about the snails...pond snails and Malaysian Trumpets are pretty hardy.
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 5, 2017
  13. FalValued MemberMember

    Ok cool. Poor fishies. Temperature raised and spray bar splashing. Shall see how we go with the meds in the morning :)

    Thanks everyone for all the help!! Fingers crossed they recover!
  14. dcutl002Well Known MemberMember

    Good luck and I hope it clears up.
  15. NavigatorBlackFishlore VIPMember

    You have a "large spot" Ich there, which in my weird world view is the easiest form to treat. I personally don't raise the temps on the rare occasions I get Ich here now (I used to get it a lot but my current fish supplier is better than where I used to buy).
    The fishfarms, and hobbyists, are reporting a heat tolerant species or mutation of Ich, which I expect will do very well over the next few years. We may as well get ready.

    You can clear that out fast - good luck.
  16. NatalyaWell Known MemberMember

    So I am confused again. I have farlowellas, forktail rainbowfish, platies and guppies; I also have snails (rabbit, trumpet, mystery) and neocaridinas. I noticed I had one fish with ich yesterday and was asking here how to treat it. I decided on heat method, but now am not sure if would be good for my fish? I care about plants less. I also have medication, as a last resort. I started raising temperature yesterday, but it is still only 82, so can go either way. I am mainly concerned about safety of my fish and inverts
  17. dcutl002Well Known MemberMember

    I believe heat would be better for inverts (assuming shrimp) as they (inverts) are very sensitive to chemicals.
  18. NatalyaWell Known MemberMember

    Ok, thanks, so I'll just stick with heat
  19. OnTheFlyWell Known MemberMember

    You will never get complete agreement on this forum. Many of have Medded with cats. Many here have heated them way out of their temp range too. Just don't do both because it's unnecessary stress. I agree with Navigator Black. I've also been using Meds containing Malachite Green for decades without a problem to fish or plants. I had to get on the internet to hear it's dangerous. I've never had many inverts so no comment there. It won't surprise me if your snails survive.
  20. FalValued MemberMember

    Yer ive noticed that. I guess a part of it is down to what works for u and making your own mistakes too. Its great to know everyones opinions too! Ive learnt so much.

    Yes i think the snails just might survive too. I'm considering pulling a ramshorn out to keep...maybe...

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