ich contamination

Discussion in 'Freshwater Fish Disease' started by featherblue, Nov 27, 2012.

  1. featherblue Well Known Member Member

    Which tanks do I need to treat as well as my puffers?
    Everyone has axfew specks on their nose area today. Clear to white in color, I thought they were nostrils at first but they aren't symetrical to each other and a a few now have them on their chin. One has lots of spots in color pattern and more speckles than anyone else.
    ive only one siphon and bucket I use between all 5 of my tanks. If I can see spots that means everything that touched that tank has touched ich and prob spread it, right? 4 tanks r in my profile, the last one is a 3g with orange neo shrimp

    Ive seen heat and salt recommended on a puffer site, any other recommendations?

  2. geminichick_90 Valued Member Member

    The heat method is the best. it took me less than 2 weeks to get rid of ich in my tank. And yes i would do all of the tanks if you share siphons around all of the tanks

  3. JessiNoel21 Well Known Member Member

    As Gem said heat way is best and I would up their garlic intake to help them fight the ICH.

  4. featherblue Well Known Member Member

    But can ich infect shrimp or frogs or snails? 3 tanks don't have traditional fish at all
  5. JessiNoel21 Well Known Member Member

    Yes it can affect frogs and some invertebrates
  6. Lucy Moderator Moderator Member

    It's my understanding that ADF's don't get ich.
    I've never read them having it.
  7. WaterSpirit Valued Member Member

    I agree with the above comments--heat and salt would be the best bet. And yes you should go ahead and treat every tank. If your siphon touched each tank's water (even if you rinsed it), then you probably helped the ick travel from one tank to another, especially since it seems to be spreading real rapidly on the fish your noticing ick on. You need separate tools for each of your tanks. So I would buy those ASAP too. :)
  8. Jaysee Fishlore Legend Member

    Inverts are impervious to ich because of their exoskeleton. I have heard that frogs can't get it. I've never heard of a case of anything but fish having ich.
  9. featherblue Well Known Member Member

    So I should treat the two tanks with fish and watch the 3 without?

    Dwarfpuffrr.com gave great specifics tor DP treatment, heat and salt, WC schedual, continue treatment 7-14 days after spots gone.

    Not spreading too fast. Most of the spots have been there 2 days. New 6-12 today

    Should I use salt in the 10 g with Betta and breeding ramshorns?

    How much air should I add? I have a sponge filter and hob in 10, 2baffled hob a bubble ring and a sponge filter in 29

    How can I clan equiptment? I have to play reaarange the heater to make this happen, not all of mine are adjustable
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2012
  10. WaterSpirit Valued Member Member

    I would definitely treat the tanks that have ick present (watch for ick in the other tanks, chances are the other fishes' immune systems can fight the ick on their own). Ick can be present on the fish, however, before you actually notice the white spots. Check and make sure the species of fish your going to treat, like the betta and ramshorns, can withstand the heat and salt treatment (they should handle that better than any medication). If you use the salt method, take out all your invertebrates that are in any of the tanks with fish, especially the snails because they will die in the amount of salt you are going to put in the water to treat the ick. Otherwise, you don't need to treat your 3 gallon tank since invertebrates don't carry ick; however, the ick could still be in their tank water lying dormant waiting for the chance to spread/transported.
  11. featherblue Well Known Member Member

    Well I'm investing in a second siphon for the invert tanks and my adfs, and I'm going to wat h my froggy boys like crazy just to be sure.

    I can skip the salt and just use heat in the Betta snail tank. I haven't seen spots on him, but water gets back and forth between the two tanks, or at least containers do, fishing out snail for the puffers.

    I plan to clean all the tanks heavily to remove any spores, except the blue shrimp. Ive had two drop babies this week and its too scary to clean gravel til they get bigger (supped wc scedual to compensate on nitrates, just so much easier to aviod babies even with nylon in open water instead of gravel)

    Any clean tools suggestions? Shouldn't I clean the siphon after moving ucky water to stop reinfection with the next days water change?
  12. WaterSpirit Valued Member Member

    High temperatures may not be enough to stop the ick, but they can do it. There are some instances where ick can survive up to 90 degrees F. So, I suppose that's why they recommend using salt as well.

    You might want to purchase an antiseptic that is safe for fish/aquariums to soak your tools and buckets and things in between WCs.

    Try sterilizing with vinegar then rinsing well with water and letting it air dry. You can try steaming if you have a steam cleaner (lol). I've read you can use rubbing alcohol (it evaporates quickly) then rinse. You can use bleach (1/10 solution), though I've read that bleach isn't the safest best bet, and rinse and air dry (until there is no more bleach smell).
  13. featherblue Well Known Member Member

    I'm hoping heat is for my Betta, I'm really hoping its a preventative treatment. Any temp suggestions for him? Its a 10g with one halfmoon male and 10 adult rams horns and tons of babies.

    Any bad results with the organic kordon ich treatment and snails? What about ghost shrimp?

    Will the salt treatment kill off the remaining ghost shrimp in the puffer tank?

    Vinager then scalding water rinse it is....gonna go get everything clean and drying now.....ready for project ich he gone tomw
  14. Cichlidnut Fishlore VIP Member

    ICH isn't very hard to get rid of. Heat alone usually does do the trick. Personally, I don't think sterilizing equipment is necessary by any means. I use the same water changer on all 9 of my tanks. Of all the fishy ailments, ICH is probably the least scary.

    One thing to remember when raising heat, make sure you've got plenty of surface disturbance. There is less o2 in warmer water.
  15. WaterSpirit Valued Member Member

    I agree about needing plenty of aeration when cranking up the temp. Don't use any medications on invertebrates or snails as I read that WILL kill them as will high levels of salt. You need to take the shrimp out and put them in a separate tank to treat the puffers. Your temp needs to be no less than 80 degrees F, with the recommended temp being 86 degrees F constantly; prevent temp fluctuations as this can stress your fish and lead to secondary infection.

    Bettas don't do well in water with a lot of salt so don't use salt in the tank with him and the rams horns. Just increase the temp slowly over a day or two to 86F and just keep the snails in there--NO SALT AND NO MEDS for them!!!
  16. Cichlidnut Fishlore VIP Member

    Not all medications will harm inverts. I've used the cordon natural products with my RCS and MTS with no issues. Kordon ICH attack (not rid ich) is safe. Doesn't have any copper in it.

    Bettas handle salt relativity well. Breeders have been using salt for decades.
  17. featherblue Well Known Member Member

    I may do a kordon ich attach during the end of the heat cycle just to make sure nothing is still contaminating my sponge filters to re infect the tank. I cant find the ghost shrimp. I tried last wc, just to see how many were still around. Added 10, 3 died immediately (thanks walmart for taking such great care of ur stock :() I found none. Saw one today scrounge fallen blood worms, but hes the first ive seen in week plus.

    I really adore my Betta, should I preventativly treat his tank? The lights not the best but I couldn't see any spots. Onnthe other hand one of his current fav games is glass surfing, could this be early sign ot inturnal cysts?

    How much is "plently" of surface movement? Got a bubble ring and sponge filter and 2 hob on puffers, sponge and hob on 10g
  18. Cichlidnut Fishlore VIP Member

    Sounds like you've got enough surface agitation.

    Bettas like warm waters and can handle heat very well. It wouldn't hurt to kick his temp up a bit. Just do it slowly. What do you have him at now?
  19. featherblue Well Known Member Member

    Hes got a preset heater at 76......I can swap the adjestable from the 3 gal (shrimp set at 76 anyways)

    Both have an extra filter seeding right now (puffers for future tank and Betta for QT)
  20. Cichlidnut Fishlore VIP Member

    I keep my bettas at 80-82, they like it a little warmer :)