Ich and Platy Aggression... help!

aquaticat
  • #1
Hello Fishlore! Thanks so much to all the experienced fishkeepers who have posted on this forum. It helps a LOT with aquarium newbies like me!

I have a 10 gallon fish tank that's been set up for about two months now. All the fish I've ever had in it are 5 assorted wagtail Platies, a juvenile male Halfmoon Betta, and 5 ghost shrimp. I have Java Ferns and a small clump of Dwarf Hairgrass but none of my plants have been doing that well... I have a feeling my water quality has been really bad. I've not been able to purchase a water test kit (I know, shame on me who knows I should have one ) but I'll be getting one soon if everything works out.

Right now, my concerns are for the fish. About a month ago my red female Platy started to have ich. I looked on FishLore to see what to do. I read the ich article and like it suggested gradually upped the tank temperature to about 85 degrees and kept it there for several weeks. Sadly my Platy had been bullied quite a bit and died soon after I began the temperature raise.

For a while everybody else was fine. I'd bought some ich treatment, but because of the ghost shrimp I decided to wait it out and see if the temperature raise worked. I finally lowered the temperature a few days ago, but my Sunburst male Platy (who is usually bullying everybody when I come by the tank and they think it's dinnertime) now has ich and has been hanging around in the back of the tank. I noticed the male red Platy he normally bullies without end is now picking on him, fins fanned out like the other male normally does. My female Sunburst Platy recently gave birth and was acting funny for a little bit and I was worried she might get ich, but she's fine now and she too is bullying the Sunburst male as I post this.

I really don't want to lose another fish and I can't help but feel that not watching the water quality all this time is going to cost me. When I set up the tank I did use a product similar to Tetra SafeStart and let the tank sit for a few days, but that's about all I did before adding fish... Like a lot of people I've read about I think I was a bit too hasty with getting the fish. Anyone have suggestions on what I should do?

Also, I read Platies were peaceful fish... my two males will fan out their fins a lot and sit side by side like they're showing off and threatening one another. What might be making them fight? Is it normal? I can sort of understand rivalry between the males, but I really didn't expect it.
 
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DannyG
  • #2
Hello,
Well my friend you have something going on in your tank, first of all if you feel you water quality is bad you should do frequent water changes, I reccomend once a week if your tank is cycled and if not every 2 days or so.
For the Ick besides raising your temperature you should do more frequent water changes and ziphons to get rid of the Ick that fell of your fish.
I would reccomend adding aquarium salt.
Now about the platies, I don't reccomend 2 males toghether, some may say yes, but I have 2 males in a 30 gallon and they are always chasing eachother arround, I can't move one because my other 2 tanks are betta homes. Just try to add more hiding places for the other fish. Good luck and keep me posted.
Daniel
 
aquaticat
  • Thread Starter
  • #3
Thanks for the reply,

I have done several water changes, but from all the problems I've been having I doubt it's really been often enough. When I do a water change I usually do a 10% change... is doing that twice a week good (while dealing with the ich)? Because of all the problems I really don't know if the tank is cycled or not.

I've thought about taking the Sunburst male back. I'd rather rehome him but I don't know anyone with fish. I can't move any of my fish either. I have a 5 gallon that I'm hoping to set up for a quarantine, and I could move him to that once I treat for ich but my parents forbid any more tanks beyond that :-\
 
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DannyG
  • #4
Well, you should do 25% water changes and yes you should chnage your water while having Ick in the tank, once your fish get Ick you won't get it again, I reccomend you get a water test kit. Good Luck!
 
bankruptjojo
  • #5
If your tank is cycled and not overstocked then one water change a week of 40%. Your tank is Overstocked so I would do two water changes a week of 40%. If your tank is not fully cycled then daily water changes of 50% should be done. Also u will need something to detoxify ammonia I would get some prime water conditioner asap. During ich treatment more water changes the better.

You can soak food in garlic to help the fishes immune system. Garlic juice from the store will work, or seahem makes a product called garlic guard u can buy.

I would deff take one male out a 10 gallon is To small for two males
 
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aquaticat
  • Thread Starter
  • #6
The Sunburst isn't doing very well at all, the other fish are constantly bothering him except for the betta. If I can get the 5 gallon set up in the next few days I'll move him.

I have read about garlic, it sounded odd at first but I think I'll give it a shot and look for some Prime.

Thanks!
 
bankruptjojo
  • #7
I would try to make something to keep the other fish away from him. Either a divider or like a breeder box. They sell breeder boxes for around 10$. There a very useful tool and not for just fry.
 
aquaticat
  • Thread Starter
  • #8
As I said in my first post one of my females gave birth, so I was planning on getting a breeder net. I have her only surviving fry in a small tank of his own right now, so I'll definitely look into getting a breeder net or box for the male first. Never thought of doing that before... thanks for that idea!
 
Eienna
  • #9
That comment about fish not getting ich twice is absolutely incorrect. They certainly can.

You will likely want to rehome one of the two males, as mentioned...definitely get a test kit ASAP. Some stores that sell fish will test your water for you if you bring them a sample - however, you cannot depend on their answers if they use test strips. Get yourself the API Master test kit if possible. In the meantime, the suggested water changes should help you. When you add a bacteria product you're supposed to add fish the same day. I must say the only bacteria products that I believe work are SafeStart and Colony...definitely do frequent water changes until you know what the chemistry currently is in your tank. I know when I had danios they would start fighting when the nitrites got too high (I goofed a little in my cycling, as well).
 
mandi85710
  • #10
I read all about your fish and I am sorry that you are having problems. I breed platies, guppies and mollies so I have been there with what you are going through. IF you do not know your water parameters you can take a sample to the pet store and they will let you know what they are. As far as raising the temp to get rid of the Ich I find it doesn't work it just causes more stress on your already stressed out fish.

You tank is a little over stocked so if you can get your 5G tank set up and move 3 platies (1 male and 2 females) into that one. A good way to treat ich also is to use some melafix. It has worked for me when I have had one of my Cichlids have ich and bites that needed healed at the same time. I brought ich home from the PS without noticing it and I usually pay very close attention to the fish I do buy.

You can remove all of your gravel also and let it dry out completely before adding it back in. That kills all of the ich that has not gotten back on to your other fish yet. Rinse it lightly before adding it back in like you did when you first added it.

Also probably one of the first things you could do so that you can treat your fish is to move your ghost shrimp into your 5G tank and then treat the 10G tank as the directions on the bottle. If you want to do a regular Ich treatment and not the melafix b/x melafix is a little expensive they have fizz tablets at Wal Mart or also they have QuICK Cure by AP (at WalMart) that is only like $2.00. I know it sounds cheap but sometimes when you are in a pinch and need something you try the cheap stuff. I used it and the Ick was gone the next day off of the fish but still treat them for the full amount of time to make sure it is gone. Definitely take out any decorations or anything you like in your tank b/c it will turn them blue. Also an extra air stone during this process is a good idea as well as the medicine takes some of the oxygen out of the water.
Make sure you take your filter out or what is better is that you take the carbon out of the cartridge and then just have the material in there b/c that helps with waste and your tank getting messy during your treatment. I would def treat all your fish though b/c chances are if one gets it they are most of the time going to all get it.

Now down to the stocking part of your tank. You have a little too many fish in your tank which is probably why they are fighting. You should not have more than 4 platies in a 10G tank. 5 at the most. Best ratio to keep males from fighting is 1 male for every 3 females. So basically you should only have one male and 3 females in a 10G tank. Pet stores tell you one inch of fish per gallon of water in the tank. What they don't remind you of is how big they are going to get and to go by the size they will get to be not what they are at the time you get them unless you are just using your smaller tank as a grow out tank and then planning on moving them to a larger tank in the future when they outgrow that tank.

Also I would only do a max of 25% water changes a week on your tank when it is healthy. More than that is going to stress the fish out b/c they will lose a lot of the beneficial bacteria they need that is already in the water. Are you treating your water when you do your partial changes??? You need to use a dechlorinater every time you add a fish or add more water. Make sure you add some stress coat in the water too to keep the fish with a good healthy slime coat on them.

There are a lot of different opinions on how to treat ick and what is best. I can only tell you what I have done from a breeders point and dealing with these types of fish for over 10 years. I have never had another outbreak of ick once I have gotten rid of it unless I happen to not notice a fish when I bring it home and it has ick and then I have to treat them again. I have big aquariums so I pay close attention when I buy new fish b/c it can get expensive on getting them better. But if you catch it early you should be ok with starting the treatment asap don't wait. And I don't agree with the raising of the temp method b/c I have heard stories where it kills the fish and makes the ick worse. I haven't seen it first hand but like I said I have heard about the issues. I hope all of this helps. I talk a lot I know...lol. Can't help it I am very passionate about my fish. But you def need to do something about your stocking issue. If you can take back the one that has the ick and get your money back I would do that and not replace it and that would help. Then you just have to deal with the others.

I know I said 1 Male to 3 females but you can get away with 2 females with 1 male if needed. I am not sure on how many males and females you have but if you can add 2 females and your betta to the 5G and then leave the others with the ghost shrimp in your 10G you should be ok as long as you have 6 or under in the 10G. That's still a little overstocked but if you already have them there isn't much you can do about it now. Hope this helps you some and sorry its so long...lol. Good luck and keep me posted!!!
 
Eienna
  • #11
I must respectfully differ on something - the bacteria does not colonize the water, but it does colonize substrate, which means that taking your gravel out and cleaning it will kill more of the beneficial bacteria than any water changes would. Keeping the water fresh, especially if your tank is not yet cycled, will be critical.

MandI is likely right about the overstocking, but I would not put two platies AND a betta in a 5g.

Two things about the heat treatment - one, columnaris sort of mimics ich, and if that is what it is, death will happen quickly (generally within 48 hours of symptom appearance) and even faster if the heat is turned up. The other thing is that it will not cure your ich if you don't turn it up enough (86 seems to be recommended) and if you do not vacuum your substrate every couple of days to clean up fallen spores. It accelerates their life cycle, which allows for more effective removal of the spores which continually reinfect your fish under normal circumstances. One other thing, it could kill your fish if you do not have sufficient oxygenation during the treatment.

I personally used Kordon Rid-Ich Plus according to its directions, and that worked, if you want to use it - but it leaves stains. My airline is permanently blue in the section that sits in the tank.

I missed if it's your sunburst that has the ich, but if you take that fish back I would still treat the tank. It has probably already left spores that will infect your other fish if not treated now. You can't treat ich that's already on the fish, just remove the spores that reinfect them. Eventually the ich that's on them dies. That's what the heat is for - to speed their life cycle, causing what's on the fish to die sooner and to allow the removal of lots of spores at once instead of sporadic sprinklings.
 
catsma_97504
  • #12
I read all about your fish and I am sorry that you are having problems. I breed platies, guppies and mollies so I have been there with what you are going through. IF you do not know your water parameters you can take a sample to the pet store and they will let you know what they are. As far as raising the temp to get rid of the Ich I find it doesn't work it just causes more stress on your already stressed out fish.

You tank is a little over stocked so if you can get your 5G tank set up and move 3 platies (1 male and 2 females) into that one. A good way to treat ich also is to use some melafix. It has worked for me when I have had one of my Cichlids have ich and bites that needed healed at the same time. I brought ich home from the PS without noticing it and I usually pay very close attention to the fish I do buy.

You can remove all of your gravel also and let it dry out completely before adding it back in. That kills all of the ich that has not gotten back on to your other fish yet. Rinse it lightly before adding it back in like you did when you first added it.

Also probably one of the first things you could do so that you can treat your fish is to move your ghost shrimp into your 5G tank and then treat the 10G tank as the directions on the bottle. If you want to do a regular Ich treatment and not the melafix b/x melafix is a little expensive they have fizz tablets at Wal Mart or also they have QuICK Cure by AP (at WalMart) that is only like $2.00. I know it sounds cheap but sometimes when you are in a pinch and need something you try the cheap stuff. I used it and the Ick was gone the next day off of the fish but still treat them for the full amount of time to make sure it is gone. Definitely take out any decorations or anything you like in your tank b/c it will turn them blue. Also an extra air stone during this process is a good idea as well as the medicine takes some of the oxygen out of the water.
Make sure you take your filter out or what is better is that you take the carbon out of the cartridge and then just have the material in there b/c that helps with waste and your tank getting messy during your treatment. I would def treat all your fish though b/c chances are if one gets it they are most of the time going to all get it.

Now down to the stocking part of your tank. You have a little too many fish in your tank which is probably why they are fighting. You should not have more than 4 platies in a 10G tank. 5 at the most. Best ratio to keep males from fighting is 1 male for every 3 females. So basically you should only have one male and 3 females in a 10G tank. Pet stores tell you one inch of fish per gallon of water in the tank. What they don't remind you of is how big they are going to get and to go by the size they will get to be not what they are at the time you get them unless you are just using your smaller tank as a grow out tank and then planning on moving them to a larger tank in the future when they outgrow that tank.

Also I would only do a max of 25% water changes a week on your tank when it is healthy. More than that is going to stress the fish out b/c they will lose a lot of the beneficial bacteria they need that is already in the water. Are you treating your water when you do your partial changes??? You need to use a dechlorinater every time you add a fish or add more water. Make sure you add some stress coat in the water too to keep the fish with a good healthy slime coat on them.

There are a lot of different opinions on how to treat ick and what is best. I can only tell you what I have done from a breeders point and dealing with these types of fish for over 10 years. I have never had another outbreak of ick once I have gotten rid of it unless I happen to not notice a fish when I bring it home and it has ick and then I have to treat them again. I have big aquariums so I pay close attention when I buy new fish b/c it can get expensive on getting them better. But if you catch it early you should be ok with starting the treatment asap don't wait. And I don't agree with the raising of the temp method b/c I have heard stories where it kills the fish and makes the ick worse. I haven't seen it first hand but like I said I have heard about the issues. I hope all of this helps. I talk a lot I know...lol. Can't help it I am very passionate about my fish. But you def need to do something about your stocking issue. If you can take back the one that has the ick and get your money back I would do that and not replace it and that would help. Then you just have to deal with the others.

I know I said 1 Male to 3 females but you can get away with 2 females with 1 male if needed. I am not sure on how many males and females you have but if you can add 2 females and your betta to the 5G and then leave the others with the ghost shrimp in your 10G you should be ok as long as you have 6 or under in the 10G. That's still a little overstocked but if you already have them there isn't much you can do about it now. Hope this helps you some and sorry its so long...lol. Good luck and keep me posted!!!


I respectfully disagree with much of what has been stated above.

When done correctly the heat treatment is 100% successful at treating ich. If the temperature isn't raised to 86F, if the gravel isn't properly cleaned the parasites will return and eventually kill the fish.

MelaFix is an herbal remedy to heal open wounds and to help heal fin damage. It is not a parasitic treatment. Salt is another remedy that must be used with caution as many fish are unable to tolerate it. Whether treating disease with herbal remedies, antibiotics or with stronger medications the complete treatment must be done and must be appropriate for the given disease.

Removing the gravel destroys bacterial colonies and will force a tank to recycle. This alone is enough to kill fish from the buildup of waste and should never be done as a treatment plan. Bacteria attaches to filter media and other hard surfaces in a tank, including the gravel. It does not live in the water column free floating. By not keeping a tank properly cleaned and providing fresh water the waste buildup will stress fish and will lead to more disease and even death. It is even more critical to step up the water changes when overstocked, which I agree you are.

While there are multiple means to treat any disease it is best to pick one direction and follow that treatment plan. Do not stop on the middle of the treatment. Further, make sure the treatment is appropriate. Antibiotics, for example, will not kill parasites. Also, do not mix treatments as that can create a toxic soup that makes it difficult for fish to survive.

Good luck ridding your tank of ich.
 
mandi85710
  • #13
I must respectfully differ on something - the bacteria does not colonize the water, but it does colonize substrate, which means that taking your gravel out and cleaning it will kill more of the beneficial bacteria than any water changes would. Keeping the water fresh, especially if your tank is not yet cycled, will be critical.

MandI is likely right about the overstocking, but I would not put two platies AND a betta in a 5g.

Two things about the heat treatment - one, columnaris sort of mimics ich, and if that is what it is, death will happen quickly (generally within 48 hours of symptom appearance) and even faster if the heat is turned up. The other thing is that it will not cure your ich if you don't turn it up enough (86 seems to be recommended) and if you do not vacuum your substrate every couple of days to clean up fallen spores. It accelerates their life cycle, which allows for more effective removal of the spores which continually reinfect your fish under normal circumstances. One other thing, it could kill your fish if you do not have sufficient oxygenation during the treatment.

I personally used Kordon Rid-Ich Plus according to its directions, and that worked, if you want to use it - but it leaves stains. My airline is permanently blue in the section that sits in the tank.

I missed if it's your sunburst that has the ich, but if you take that fish back I would still treat the tank. It has probably already left spores that will infect your other fish if not treated now. You can't treat ich that's already on the fish, just remove the spores that reinfect them. Eventually the ich that's on them dies. That's what the heat is for - to speed their life cycle, causing what's on the fish to die sooner and to allow the removal of lots of spores at once instead of sporadic sprinklings.


I do agree with you in the fact that the beneficial bacteria is in the substrate. However removing the gravel you still have the beneficial bacteria at the bottom of the tank. That is why I suggested that. I have done it and it has worked for me and I still had all of my fish when I was done. I think it is all a matter of opinions when it comes to Ick b/c there are so many different treatments out there and 99% of them will work it just also depends on the money you are willing and able to spend.

The only reason I suggested the 2 Fplaties and the betta in the 5G is b/c aquaticat stated that the parents would not let another tank be bought. I would normally say upgrade the platies to a 20G and either keep the Betta in the 10G or put it in the 5G. Again that is all in opinion based on the size of the betta and how much it actually moves around. So it's kind of a difficult situation due to the fact that they cannot buy a larger tank.

It's all opinions as far as stock goes and what types of medicines to use in these cases b/c there are so many out there now and some work and some don't. So its basically all up to aquaticat which advice they want to go with if any and I would also suggest doing some research on treating ick so you can see all of the many options I am talking about. But in my opinion the temperature raising is more stress on your fish than medicines. But I do agree with Eienna as to like I said before remove anything you don't want stained blue out of the tank b/c it never comes off of anything. Good luck with everything though I hope your fish get better soon no matter which way you decide to go as far as treatment!!!
 
Eienna
  • #14
I will concede that to some species raising the temp that high would likely be intolerable.

I would also like to reiterate real quick that if you use the heat treatment you must vacuum very well every 2-3 days. Otherwise it won't work. I'm also not sure the heat treatment would work well for very advanced cases...but I do not know for sure.
 
bankruptjojo
  • #15
I have used the heat method many times. never needed any meds. I try not to treat meds unless I have to. most tropical fish can handle higher temps, in this case bettas and platys. here are fish that I have personally had up to 88F with no problems.
bettas
yoyo loaches
blood parrots
tiger barbs
SAE's
GBR's
so far it has worked every time. again the more vac's and water changes the better.

welcome to fishlore mandI glad to meet you. have you actually tried the heat method yourself? or are you just going off what you read? if you like using meds first that's fine, to everyone there own but I suggest you try heat next time, my fish showed no sing of stress. just make sure you add air stones to up the oxygen in the water.

I would move the betta and shrimp to the 5g. then keep just the platys in the 10g. I also think if he wants to keep them in the 10 and keep it extra clean, as long as there is no aggression go for it. have you asked it you could sell the 10 gallon and upgrade? a 29 gallon would be perfect for ya, but if ya can't I understand.

I considered taking the gravel out for ich, and I'm sure that would help. but as said it could also send the tank into a min cycle. if you had a very established tank then it would be do able.
 
jdhef
  • #16
Okay, here's my takeon this:

You have an overstocked 5 gallon tank in which the fish have ich and you do not know if it is cycled since you do not have a test kit.

So obviuosly the first thing would be to rehome the Platy's and just leave the Betta and the shrimp.

Now since you have no idea where your water parameters are (but since you are so overstocked I think it would be safe to assume that your tank is not cycled) you need to act as if your tank is not cycled. So I would recommend daily 50% water changes with Prime until the tank cycles (which you will not know until after you get a test kit).

So since you will be doing daily partial water changes, you really will not be able to use the ich medicine. So you should just raise you water temperature to 86 and leave it there for at least two weeks. And be sure to use a gravel vac to do your daily water changes so that the ich spores in the gravel will be removed.

I also want to add that there seems to be a lot of bullying in your tank. Two things that can cause fish to bully one another is high ammonia/nitrite levels and overcrowding.

Best of luck!
 
aylad
  • #17
The only reason I suggested the 2 Fplaties and the betta in the 5G is b/c aquaticat stated that the parents would not let another tank be bought. I would normally say upgrade the platies to a 20G and either keep the Betta in the 10G or put it in the 5G. Again that is all in opinion based on the size of the betta and how much it actually moves around. So it's kind of a difficult situation due to the fact that they cannot buy a larger tank.

Respectfully, it's not a difficult situation at all. If you have too many fish and can't get more tanks, you find a new owner for the fish. I'd love to breed angels, but I don't have space or money for a large tank, so should I get 6 angels for my currently empty 10 gallon tank? Obviously not. No more do platies belong in a five-gallon tank.

It's all opinions as far as stock goes and what types of medicines to use in these cases

It's not ALL opinions. Experience matters, too. I submit that experience from such members as Eienna, jdhef, and catsma is worth SERIOUS consideration.
 
mandi85710
  • #18
I have used the heat method many times. never needed any meds. I try not to treat meds unless I have to. most tropical fish can handle higher temps, in this case bettas and platys. here are fish that I have personally had up to 88F with no problems.
bettas
yoyo loaches
blood parrots
tiger barbs
SAE's
GBR's
so far it has worked every time. again the more vac's and water changes the better.

welcome to fishlore mandI glad to meet you. have you actually tried the heat method yourself? or are you just going off what you read? if you like using meds first that's fine, to everyone there own but I suggest you try heat next time, my fish showed no sing of stress. just make sure you add air stones to up the oxygen in the water.

I would move the betta and shrimp to the 5g. then keep just the platys in the 10g. I also think if he wants to keep them in the 10 and keep it extra clean, as long as there is no aggression go for it. have you asked it you could sell the 10 gallon and upgrade? a 29 gallon would be perfect for ya, but if ya can't I understand.

I considered taking the gravel out for ich, and I'm sure that would help. but as said it could also send the tank into a min cycle. if you had a very established tank then it would be do able.


Nice to meet you too and thank you.

Yes I have tried the heat method with my blood parrot cichlids and I lost one of them. I brought the temp up about 2 degrees every hour and a half. They just had minor ick with a few little spots on them so that is why I am saying it causes stress. I guess it just depends on your fish and how they can take it then if you have done it so much and it has worked for you. Every fish is an individual so I guess that would be why some die and some don't. Mine unfortunately did and I took that as a sign to not try it again or recommend it b/c I wouldn't want anyone to lose a fish like I did. That is from my personal experience on why I have the issue with raising the tank temp that high. But again if it has worked for you so well then that's great it just ended up in a loss for me. So I think you can probably understand where I am coming from with that one I hope!

Respectfully, it's not a difficult situation at all. If you have too many fish and can't get more tanks, you find a new owner for the fish. I'd love to breed angels, but I don't have space or money for a large tank, so should I get 6 angels for my currently empty 10 gallon tank? Obviously not. No more do platies belong in a five-gallon tank.

Well when you are a kid and you have 5 platies already and have had them and are unable to get a larger tank and don't want to give your fish away the best way to handle the situation is to move some around a little. Do I think platies belong in a 5G tank no I don't but I am just offering suggestions to try and help a kid who has no other options. If they put the betta and ghost shrimp in the 5G someone would say something about that as well. The only reason I said anything about the platies being moved was because of the aggression problem. Perfect tank for 5 platies in a real world when you are an adult is at least a 20G but probably better with a 29G but they don't have that option. So giving opinions and ideas on ways to help lessen the stress is what I thought this site was for. For the EXPERIENCED aquarium keepers to try and help those who do not know any better. Not to attack everyone who instead of saying you have to give your fish away gives them a little other option. It's not ideal but it will not kill the platies either.

It's not ALL opinions. Experience matters, too. I submit that experience from such members as Eienna, jdhef, and catsma is worth SERIOUS consideration.

And as far as experience I have had a lot of experience as far as what medicines to use. I was talking about the brand that you use. I did not attack anyone for saying anything I just said opinions based on brands to use. There are so many out there these days who is to say one is better. I have tried several and there are ones that are cheap from walmart when I had an emergency in the middle of the night and couldn't go to a pet store b/c they are closed. They worked the same as the $20 ones from the pet stores.

I respectfully disagree with much of what has been stated above.

When done correctly the heat treatment is 100% successful at treating ich. If the temperature isn't raised to 86F, if the gravel isn't properly cleaned the parasites will return and eventually kill the fish.

MelaFix is an herbal remedy to heal open wounds and to help heal fin damage. It is not a parasitic treatment. Salt is another remedy that must be used with caution as many fish are unable to tolerate it. Whether treating disease with herbal remedies, antibiotics or with stronger medications the complete treatment must be done and must be appropriate for the given disease.

Removing the gravel destroys bacterial colonies and will force a tank to recycle. This alone is enough to kill fish from the buildup of waste and should never be done as a treatment plan. Bacteria attaches to filter media and other hard surfaces in a tank, including the gravel. It does not live in the water column free floating. By not keeping a tank properly cleaned and providing fresh water the waste buildup will stress fish and will lead to more disease and even death. It is even more critical to step up the water changes when overstocked, which I agree you are.

While there are multiple means to treat any disease it is best to pick one direction and follow that treatment plan. Do not stop on the middle of the treatment. Further, make sure the treatment is appropriate. Antibiotics, for example, will not kill parasites. Also, do not mix treatments as that can create a toxic soup that makes it difficult for fish to survive.

Good luck ridding your tank of ich.

In my own EXPERIENCE it stresses the fish out too much when you raise the temperature when they are already stressed from being sick. I tried the treatment just as it was described on how to do and my fish died. He had no other illness and he was not bad with ick either he just had a few spots. If your fish is that bad especially I think the severe raise in temperature over any period of time would kill it. I know you only raise it a little every so many hours but still in my opinion and EXPERIENCE it is not the best method.

As far as melafix yes it is meant for fin rot, battle wounds open sores and some other things written on the bottle. In my case I had a rescue I was taking care of and he had ick and fin rot and also severe bite marks from being in a fight with other fish hence me getting him from my friend b/c he was bullied. I was using melafix already when the ick showed up and did not want to mix medicines because I agree as you said it can cause a lethal combination. So I kept using the melafix and within 2 days the ick was gone. He was in my 20G nursing tank which has nothing on the bottom so I can monitor his droppings and he still got ick. My friends tank never got ick so somehow it was in a tank with no gravel or anything in it. Also if you look around at other peoples tanks who have nursing tanks they have nothing on the bottoms for the reason of watching for other issues. Ick can live in the water and not have gravel to hide in. It can attach to plants or ornaments that you have in your tank and also go under them.

I thought this site was made for people with EXPERIENCE in these matters to help the ones who don't know or have questions but all that happens is you get attacked based on experiences you have had yourself and recommend based on that and plenty of research over the years. I have had fish 10 plus years and have been through a bunch of different situations with fish b/c I am the go to person for my friends b/c I have the extra nursing tanks. Melafix can get rid of ick. Yes it is a natural substance and not an antibiotic or actual ick treatment as said on the bottle. Also talking to my fish guy today who has had fish for over 40 yrs said the same thing. There are a lot of medications and herbal remedies that just because they do not specifically say on them that they are for that SPECIFIC disease or problem does not mean they do not work especially when you have witnessed it first hand. I have experienced and been through things with fish and posted what I know that has worked for me as well as others have done the same thing and posted what they know has worked for them as far as the raising the heat treatment.
 
jwhorner6
  • #19
In my own EXPERIENCE it stresses the fish out too much when you raise the temperature when they are already stressed from being sick. I tried the treatment just as it was described on how to do and my fish died. He had no other illness and he was not bad with ick either he just had a few spots. If your fish is that bad especially I think the severe raise in temperature over any period of time would kill it. I know you only raise it a little every so many hours but still in my opinion and EXPERIENCE it is not the best method.

As far as melafix yes it is meant for fin rot, battle wounds open sores and some other things written on the bottle. In my case I had a rescue I was taking care of and he had ick and fin rot and also severe bite marks from being in a fight with other fish hence me getting him from my friend b/c he was bullied. I was using melafix already when the ick showed up and did not want to mix medicines because I agree as you said it can cause a lethal combination. So I kept using the melafix and within 2 days the ick was gone. He was in my 20G nursing tank which has nothing on the bottom so I can monitor his droppings and he still got ick. My friends tank never got ick so somehow it was in a tank with no gravel or anything in it. Also if you look around at other peoples tanks who have nursing tanks they have nothing on the bottoms for the reason of watching for other issues. Ick can live in the water and not have gravel to hide in. It can attach to plants or ornaments that you have in your tank and also go under them.

I thought this site was made for people with EXPERIENCE in these matters to help the ones who don't know or have questions but all that happens is you get attacked based on experiences you have had yourself and recommend based on that and plenty of research over the years. I have had fish 10 plus years and have been through a bunch of different situations with fish b/c I am the go to person for my friends b/c I have the extra nursing tanks. Melafix can get rid of ick. Yes it is a natural substance and not an antibiotic or actual ick treatment as said on the bottle. Also talking to my fish guy today who has had fish for over 40 yrs said the same thing. There are a lot of medications and herbal remedies that just because they do not specifically say on them that they are for that SPECIFIC disease or problem does not mean they do not work especially when you have witnessed it first hand. I have experienced and been through things with fish and posted what I know that has worked for me as well as others have done the same thing and posted what they know has worked for them as far as the raising the heat treatment.

I do not feel you are being attacked for your opinions. This is a knowledgeable site with a LOT of knowledgeable fish keepers with a LOT of experience. It is the basic common goal to give someone the best advice possible for the sake of their fish.

You not only are telling the original poster that heat is not effective and stresses fish out, but you are recommending a medicine (melafix) that does not help ich, and are telling them to do something that will cause much more work than is needed, and stress the fish by removing the substrate.

I have cured ich many times using nothing but heat raised slowly to 88 degrees over the course of about 2 days. Leave it there for about 2 weeks and then return to normal. I have had a 100% success rate with no deaths on many different types of fish. Medicine will kill and stress fish much more than heat will. I truly feel that your fish either had some other underlying condition or you raised the heat too quickly if they died as a result of the heat method because if done correctly higher than normal temps for a short period of time will not kill fish.

You need to be careful when giving advice as I feel that your advice to the original poster is going to cause them more problems instead of solving any.
 
aquaticat
  • Thread Starter
  • #20
Thanks again to all who answered.

I probably will go with some ich meds instead of the temperature raise this time, as I'm sure it did further stress my fish. Perhaps that was why the one female died. I can move the shrimp into another tank when I treat it but something a lady at a fish store mentioned was that if I do move them, I'll need to be careful the net I use doesn't transfer ich to the next tank. Is this true? And, as for the betta I'd like to leave him where he is. He's never given any of the other fish trouble, and I swear that goofy thing thinks he's a platy now, he does everything they do and follows my tuxedo female everywhere

I have nowhere to permanently set up the 5 gallon so right now it's kind of an emergency tank. Another thing I just found out about it is that the filter no longer works

Also, a few things I forgot to mention in my first post:

First: all but two (as far as I know, usually now I just see one out at a time) shrimp are left. I'm not sure why they died but I'm sure the temp raise and overstocked tank probably stressed everybody out and could have contributed to it. I wondered if the higher temperature would stress out the fish, and was skeptical but at the time I was unable to buy any medication. I did buy a bottle of Rid-Ich Plus by Kordon later on, and since seeing Eienna's comment I'm really worried about staining my tank decor I probably will abandon the temp raise and just use this or some other ich treatment to avoid stressing my fish out more.

Second: I kind of messed this up when I posted it, but the stuff I put in the tank a few days before I got the fish was actually dechlorinator, but I did add bacteria and stress coat stuff with the fish. Also when I do a water change I usually do put dechlorinator in the water but not usually the stress coat, but I'll definitely start doing that.

I probably will go with bankruptjojo's idea and put the male with ich in a breeder net/box. I feel bad putting him in a smaller space but it's that or the other fish pester him to death.

To Mandi85710: That's okay if you talk a lot here, you're being helpful!

You have an overstocked 5 gallon tank in which the fish have ich and you do not know if it is cycled since you do not have a test kit.

Sorry, not sure if I goofed up somewhere but the platies, betta and shrimp are all in a 10 gallon. Also, I'm planning on purchasing a gravel vac when I get the API Master test kit, and have been planning on getting the vac for a while since my fish first had signs of ich.

So far this is my plan:

Move the male with ich to a breeder net/box and treat the 10 gallon for ich. Once his ich clears up I'll look into finding someone else to take him. After I rehome him, I'll leave the other three platies and betta by themselves and move the shrimp permanently to another tank.

A few quick questions about the plants in the tank: if I have to remove all the decor when I use the Rid-Ich does that include the plants, or will they be okay? I have a large fake log with a small Java fern that has grown its way onto the side, so I'll have to remove that but the other Java ferns have oddly anchored themselves to the gravel. They've not been in the tank that long and thus haven't grown over the gravel that much yet, but I wondered if that was part of the reason they're not doing so well. I know you're not supposed to PLANT them in gravel but if they grow over the gravel, will they be okay? And would some plant supplement tablets help?
 
aylad
  • #21
You added bacteria? I might have missed you saying this, but what type (brand) of bacteria did you add? Some brands of bottled bacteria do nothing but give you a false sense of security.

As for using medicine to treat ich: that is, of course, your option. I think other members have covered the ineffectiveness of melafix against ich (I wouldn't know, having never used it), but just in case you're still considering it, have a look at this thread for a little more info:

https://www.fishlore.com/aquariumfi...e-regarding-labyrinth-fish-and-melafix.75644/

Someone may already have linked this, but again, just in case, check this out:

https://www.fishlore.com/aquariumfishforum/threads/curing-ich-naturally.105665/

I agree with jwhorner's suggestion that raising temperatures too quickly may have caused difficulties in other members' tanks. I have routinely kept platies and bettas at 86 degrees for months at a time with absolutely no trouble.
 
Mrs.Price
  • #22
There isn't much I feel like commenting on in this thread, as it seems to be full of very passionate people. What I will say is that I respectfully disagree with the statement that removing your substrate will cause a mini-cycle, this is false. Your beneficial bacteria lives on every surface of your tank, the majority of it being in your filter. If you have a cycled tank with an established filter, removing all of your substrate won't have any side effects whatsoever. Having faith in that fact, I recently switched from gravel to sand, and not even a digit of change in my water stats. As long as your tank is cycled and your bacteria colony is matured, you can do anything you'd like with the substrate, including excessively vac'ing (as the bacteria produces a glue like substance that adheres it to surfaces).
 
Cichlidnut
  • #23
There isn't much I feel like commenting on in this thread, as it seems to be full of very passionate people. What I will say is that I respectfully disagree with the statement that removing your substrate will cause a mini-cycle, this is false. Your beneficial bacteria lives on every surface of your tank, the majority of it being in your filter. If you have a cycled tank with an established filter, removing all of your substrate won't have any side effects whatsoever. Having faith in that fact, I recently switched from sand to gravel, and not even a digit of change in my water stats. As long as your tank is cycled and your bacteria colony is matured, you can do anything you'd like with the substrate, including excessively vac'ing (as the bacteria produces a glue like substance that adheres it to surfaces).

This is correct. I run bare bottom tanks with no issues. While there is some beneficial bacteria in the substrate it isn't enough to make a difference.
 
aquaticat
  • Thread Starter
  • #24
You added bacteria? I might have missed you saying this, but what type (brand) of bacteria did you add? Some brands of bottled bacteria do nothing but give you a false sense of security.

API Quick Start. It was the cheaper choice to Tetra SafeStart and a guy at the store said it worked pretty well. Not sure if I made a mistake there :-\

Thanks for the links too!

To Mrs.Price and Cichlidnut: I have read that before, and seen a lot of people who run bare-bottom tanks. I see so many people that say not to rinse the gravel of your tank though so never really knew which to fully trust.
 
LE0
  • #25
I would say taking your substrate out is more likely to harm fish than do good as it will stress them out and you are stressing them out when you put it back in
 
mandi85710
  • #26
I do not feel you are being attacked for your opinions. This is a knowledgeable site with a LOT of knowledgeable fish keepers with a LOT of experience. It is the basic common goal to give someone the best advice possible for the sake of their fish.

You not only are telling the original poster that heat is not effective and stresses fish out, but you are recommending a medicine (melafix) that does not help ich, and are telling them to do something that will cause much more work than is needed, and stress the fish by removing the substrate.

I have cured ich many times using nothing but heat raised slowly to 88 degrees over the course of about 2 days. Leave it there for about 2 weeks and then return to normal. I have had a 100% success rate with no deaths on many different types of fish. Medicine will kill and stress fish much more than heat will. I truly feel that your fish either had some other underlying condition or you raised the heat too quickly if they died as a result of the heat method because if done correctly higher than normal temps for a short period of time will not kill fish.

You need to be careful when giving advice as I feel that your advice to the original poster is going to cause them more problems instead of solving any.

Like I said before there were no underlying problems with my fish. All of my other fish were still alive and still had ick. There were no underlying issues I had had him for over a year and he was fine as well as all of my other fish in that tank.

Sorry if you feel my advice is going to cause more problems than good but that is things I have done in the past that have worked and was putting like you said my opinion (with my experiences). If you have a different idea then post what your plan would be. I would not do it in my opinion it does not work and I do believe their are other people that agree that that method could cause more stress on the fish than the medicines.

Melafix has worked for me and I believe that the higher temperature is more stressful and doesn't work yet it did for you!
 
Mrs.Price
  • #27
We can all disagree without being disagreeable towards one another. :
 
mandi85710
  • #28
Sorry, not sure if I goofed up somewhere but the platies, betta and shrimp are all in a 10 gallon. Also, I'm planning on purchasing a gravel vac when I get the API Master test kit, and have been planning on getting the vac for a while since my fish first had signs of ich.

So far this is my plan:

Move the male with ich to a breeder net/box and treat the 10 gallon for ich. Once his ich clears up I'll look into finding someone else to take him. After I rehome him, I'll leave the other three platies and betta by themselves and move the shrimp permanently to another tank.

A few quick questions about the plants in the tank: if I have to remove all the decor when I use the Rid-Ich does that include the plants, or will they be okay? I have a large fake log with a small Java fern that has grown its way onto the side, so I'll have to remove that but the other Java ferns have oddly anchored themselves to the gravel. They've not been in the tank that long and thus haven't grown over the gravel that much yet, but I wondered if that was part of the reason they're not doing so well. I know you're not supposed to PLANT them in gravel but if they grow over the gravel, will they be okay? And would some plant supplement tablets help?

I am not sure as far as your live plants go so I can't say anything about them but as far as the rid ich goes you want to remove any light colored ornaments or fake plants if you have any because they will be stained blue. Been there done that so best thing is to remove anything you think might be light enough to turn blue. The tubing you have for any airstones (if you have the clear tubing) will turn blue also. I bought black tubing when I replaced the clear after the treatments because if I ever had to treat again I didn't want to go through that again. It's a little bit more expensive but not much. I had a yellow plant with a rock bottom and didn't even think of it and it turned green. It now after almost a year has turned back to yellowish after still being in my tank but it took a long time. So just to be safe I would remove any fake ornaments or plants that are light colored. As far as your live plants I am sure some one will be able to help you with that one. I don't have live plants in any of my tanks so I can only advise you on the fake ones. Good luck!!!
 
jwhorner6
  • #29
Like I said before there were no underlying problems with my fish. All of my other fish were still alive and still had ick. There were no underlying issues I had had him for over a year and he was fine as well as all of my other fish in that tank.

Sorry if you feel my advice is going to cause more problems than good but that is things I have done in the past that have worked and was putting like you said my opinion (with my experiences). If you have a different idea then post what your plan would be. I would not do it in my opinion it does not work and I do believe their are other people that agree that that method could cause more stress on the fish than the medicines.

Melafix has worked for me and I believe that the higher temperature is more stressful and doesn't work yet it did for you!

I'm not sure why you get so upset when someone disagrees with you. Melafix does not work and your advice will cause more harm than good. You should never ever use melafix with a betta. No discussion about that. If the poster would take your advice of using melafix it could quickly kill the betta. If you successfully cured "ich" with melafix then I am sorry to tell you that it was not ich that you cured because melafix does not cure ich.

Heat in the upper 80s and even into the low 90's will not kill a tropical fish. Lack of oxygen due to increased heat and no added surface agitation will but heat will not. I'm sorry that you take such offense to anyone disagreeing.
 
catsma_97504
  • #30
It is one thing to disagree and have an open debate, but this personalized attack needs to stop immediately or this thread will be closed. Continued personal attacks will not help the OP.
 
Cichlidnut
  • #31
In my experience, Melefix doesn't do anything. Warm water and extra gravel vac's are a quick and easy way to cure ICH. As long as you raise the temperature of the tank slowly, there really shouldn't be issues with heat treatment, as long as you've got enough air in the tank.
 
bankruptjojo
  • #32
Sorry, not sure if I goofed up somewhere but the platies, betta and shrimp are all in a 10 gallon. Also, I'm planning on purchasing a gravel vac when I get the API Master test kit, and have been planning on getting the vac for a while since my fish first had signs of ich.
you need to do weekly gravel vacs idk how long this tank has been running but if you haven't done any gravel vacs I'm sure you have a ton of ammonia. GET A GRAVEL VAC ASAP.

also you can't cure ich with heat if you don't vac the gravel.
 
sirdarksol
  • #33
Melafix does not work and your advice will cause more harm than good. You should never ever use melafix with a betta. No discussion about that. If the poster would take your advice of using melafix it could quickly kill the betta.

Point one: I presume that, since you made such a direct and decisive statement about Melafix not working to kill ich, you have seen research to this end. I would love to see that research, as the efficacy of treating various illnesses and afflictions with melaleuca oil is incredibly interesting to me. We know it's generally antibiotic and antifungal in nature. It helps close wounds. It is an irritant to some extent. It is anti-parasitic in some cases. The important thing with learning about a medication (natural or synthesized) is learning its limits. What harm does it do? What can't it heal? Etc... Which leads me to...

Point two: There is discussion about whether or not you should use Melafix with a betta. There is plenty of it. It's something I've looked into a great deal. The problem that labyrinth fish have with melaleuca oil is that the oil severely irritates the labyrinth organ. If too much is given, the organ can cease to function. Labyrinth fish that need to breathe air will literally drown if overdosed on Melafix.
There is a very, very important word in that last sentence; overdosed.
So far, all of the deaths I've heard of being attributed to Melafix have been in one of two situations. The first being that the person dosing the Melafix may have given too much. The second being that the fish was being treated in a very small tank, in which case an extra few drops is going to be a far greater spike concentration of the medicine. I have heard of plenty of people using Melafix to successfully treat their bettas. The ones who do so, however, tend to be neurotic about proper dosing.
I have never heard of any bettas dying from the signature melaleuca-caused death when being treated with Bettafix. The only difference is that Bettafix is 1/10 the concentration of Melafix, and you use ten times as much. In other words, you are providing the exact same dosage, but in a much more controllable form. An extra few drops of Bettafix isn't as much of a problem as an extra few drops of Melafix. I'm sure API did it in part to milk more money out of betta owners, but it certainly makes sense, given how susceptible bettas are to an overdose

I'm not saying it's a good idea to use Melafix with bettas. Honestly, it's not something I would do, except as a last resort. However, that's a decision everyone has to make for his or her fish. It's much like many medications we use. Digitalis, when dosed improperly, is deadly. Used correctly, though, it has been saving people with heart conditions for centuries. Atropine has numerous uses. Again, deadly if too much is given. Even aspirin and acetaminophen are both toxic in too great a quantity.

In my experience, Melefix doesn't do anything. Warm water and extra gravel vac's are a quick and easy way to cure ICH. As long as you raise the temperature of the tank slowly, there really shouldn't be issues with heat treatment, as long as you've got enough air in the tank.

Thank you, Cichlidnut, for offering this as your experience. As noted above, I'm interested in gathering information about what Melafix does and doesn't do. Could you share, either here or in PM, what times you've attempted using Melafix to cure ich, how long you maintained treatment, other conditions, etc...? Thanks a bunch.
 
jwhorner6
  • #34
Point one: I presume that, since you made such a direct and decisive statement about Melafix not working to kill ich, you have seen research to this end. I would love to see that research, as the efficacy of treating various illnesses and afflictions with melaleuca oil is incredibly interesting to me. We know it's generally antibiotic and antifungal in nature. It helps close wounds. It is an irritant to some extent. It is anti-parasitic in some cases. The important thing with learning about a medication (natural or synthesized) is learning its limits. What harm does it do? What can't it heal? Etc... Which leads me to...

Point two: There is discussion about whether or not you should use Melafix with a betta. There is plenty of it. It's something I've looked into a great deal. The problem that labyrinth fish have with melaleuca oil is that the oil severely irritates the labyrinth organ. If too much is given, the organ can cease to function. Labyrinth fish that need to breathe air will literally drown if overdosed on Melafix.
There is a very, very important word in that last sentence; overdosed.
So far, all of the deaths I've heard of being attributed to Melafix have been in one of two situations. The first being that the person dosing the Melafix may have given too much. The second being that the fish was being treated in a very small tank, in which case an extra few drops is going to be a far greater spike concentration of the medicine. I have heard of plenty of people using Melafix to successfully treat their bettas. The ones who do so, however, tend to be neurotic about proper dosing.
I have never heard of any bettas dying from the signature melaleuca-caused death when being treated with Bettafix. The only difference is that Bettafix is 1/10 the concentration of Melafix, and you use ten times as much. In other words, you are providing the exact same dosage, but in a much more controllable form. An extra few drops of Bettafix isn't as much of a problem as an extra few drops of Melafix. I'm sure API did it in part to milk more money out of betta owners, but it certainly makes sense, given how susceptible bettas are to an overdose

I'm not saying it's a good idea to use Melafix with bettas. Honestly, it's not something I would do, except as a last resort. However, that's a decision everyone has to make for his or her fish. It's much like many medications we use. Digitalis, when dosed improperly, is deadly. Used correctly, though, it has been saving people with heart conditions for centuries. Atropine has numerous uses. Again, deadly if too much is given. Even aspirin and acetaminophen are both toxic in too great a quantity.



Thank you, Cichlidnut, for offering this as your experience. As noted above, I'm interested in gathering information about what Melafix does and doesn't do. Could you share, either here or in PM, what times you've attempted using Melafix to cure ich, how long you maintained treatment, other conditions, etc...? Thanks a bunch.

So first I need to apologize for my last post as it was made in agitation. I should not have made such a "decisive statement" I have not seen laboratory research that proves that melafix does not cure ich. I have used it myself in the past with no results and I have done extensive reading on the subject and until today have never read of anyone having success curing ich with melafix. Does not mean it can't happen and I apologize for that.

With the known "potential" problems between melafix and bettas then unless you are doing research and know you are going to lose some specimens why would you use it? You make a good point with such things as medications being potentially fatal if overdosed but the main difference in my opinion is thre is a risk/reward choice in them. You take tylenol knowing that if is not good for your liver but you are careful to take the recommended dose because you know there is a good chance that it will take the pain of your headache away. If someone knew that there was a very good chance that tylenol was not going to alleviate their pain but it would still cause liver damage, then I don't believe they would still take it. So my point in saying there is "no discussion" about using melafix with a betta was the fact if I was sick and the doctor gave me 2 options...option A) Has had very little if any success of curing my ailment but has been known to cause death on several occasions, or option B) Has had a great deal of success in curing my ailment but there is still a possibility it could kill me; then to me there is no discussion.

I do not know everything and like I said earlier I apologize for the way for last post was worded but I really did not feel that it would be a good choice for someone with a betta in the tank to use melafix to cure ich going off the risk/reward factor. I could be wrong and maybe there is testimonials and research out there that I am just not seeing and melafix works great for ich so once again, I apologize
 
Lucy
  • #35
I do so love a melafix discussion.
I don't know why but it always fascinates me.
 
jwhorner6
  • #36
I do so love a melafix discussion.
I don't know why but it always fascinates me.

Evidently it just makes me mad LOL
 
bankruptjojo
  • #37
I think the last thing we need is another melafix discussion I think most know the risks and benefits. I personally use maracyn and that's the only meds iv ever used and only when I need to. the fact is the OP is asking bout ich. this whole site (pretty much) will recommend the heat treatment. so when so many have had success with heat why would anyone use meds. people have diff opinions I usually treat my replies like a poll. I will go with the most suggest coarse of action. now if I had my fish die when I turned up the heat I might not ever do it again either, but all my fish were completely fine and ich went away so ill stick to this. iv also heard that ich can become resistant to certain meds dew to people using them so much idk if that is true or not but I know antibiotics work somewhat like that. the more you use them the less effective they are.

if have a headache I deal with it. I don't believe in putting chemicals in my body for no reason, and I feel the same about my fish, but that's me. also maybe melafix helped ich maybe not I deff won't say your lying but if it did cure ich normally I'm sure the company would add that to the bottle. it would help sell more, and I'm sure they did testing to see if it helped ich and must not have felt comfortable saying that.

PS to OP if you never have vacuumed your gravel you will have a bunch of poop and food sitting there adding ammonia to your tank.
 
aquaticat
  • Thread Starter
  • #38
Quite funny to see all of this

I'm hoping to get the test kit, vac and breeder net in a few days. Also I thought I had decided to use the Rid-Ich but now I'm going back and forth. Ah my fish are lovin' me right now. "You gonna help us?!?"
 
Cichlidnut
  • #39
If you don't have any invertebrates, Coppersafe has worked well for me in the past. Kordon products usually work well, Rid-Ich is probably worth a try as well.
 
sirdarksol
  • #40
I think the last thing we need is another melafix discussion .

I disagree. Every time it comes up, we learn a little bit more. Maybe not learning a new fact about it, but at least gaining a bit of a better idea of what it does and doesn't do.

As far as the rest, I'm not suggesting Melafix for ich. I'm not sure it works. I'm not sure it doesn't work. Unfortunately, almost all of the cases I've heard of where someone has used Melafix to treat ich have "tainted" the results in some way (messing with temperature, not treating long enough, etc...), meaning it's really hard to put together an accurate picture. Since I don't want other people to experiment with their fishes' lives, I am more likely to suggest heat treatment, Coppersafe, Rid-Ich, or even salt, as we know these things work.
 

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