I Stopped Doing Water Changes

I have been an off and on aquarist for 40 years. When I have the time for this hobby, I get into it hot and heavy. I'm retired now. I'm lazy. I take short cuts cuz I have a LOT of different hobbies now and I love them all.

Before this latest African cichlid tank, I had South American cichlids. I was always working a lot back then. So I didn't do everything I was "supposed" to do. I began doing water changes maybe 6 times a year, but my water was never terrible. My fish always did very well after the tank became established.

Fast forward to now. I restarted my 75 gallon aquarium after my huge Oscar finally passed away. It was 12 years at least, maybe more. I sold all other huge cichlids to a local aquarium shop. But kept my Oscar. Now I started an African cichlid tank with 2 Clown Loaches and 2 Blueberry Botias.
I lost a few at the start from nitrite poisoning. I checked everything except my nitrites and they were all perfect. I fertilized using peat at the very beginning underneath my gravel substrate. I even used some fertilizer sticks I was attempting to start a thick live plant aquarium as well. That failed. Everything died slowly except for one species that I can't remember now.

Anyway, after having the 16 cichlids left and the bottom feeders, I totally stopped doing water changes. Why do them when your water is nearly perfect? My 6 month old cichlids are making babies like crazy! (with a neutral pH) Since I also have the loaches, I have to compromise on the pH. I feed them a LOT 2-3 times daily with Cichlid Flakes, Freeze Dried Blood Worms, and Brine Shrimp. I have plenty of caves and hideouts with cracks and crevices for the babies. I have double the filtration as recommender with 2 outside filters.
I keep my LED aquarium light at 50% for 12 hours a day. I keep my temp at near 80 degrees. I also have a submersible pump with the housing wrapped with fine filter medium. I use this for added under water flow in the back length of the take. I rinse all my filter medium out once a month and add about 2 gallons of tap water that evaporates around the same time.
My nitrates and ammonia are almost non-existent. I use crushed coral and peat moss in filter bags that I buffer alternately to keep the pH near neutral. BUT NO MORE WATER CHANGES FOR ME! I hate doing them! -Joe R

 

I have been an off and on aquarist for 40 years. When I have the time for this hobby, I get into it hot and heavy. I'm retired now. I'm lazy. I take short cuts cuz I have a LOT of different hobbies now and I love them all.

Before this latest African cichlid tank, I had South American cichlids. I was always working a lot back then. So I didn't do everything I was "supposed" to do. I began doing water changes maybe 6 times a year, but my water was never terrible. My fish always did very well after the tank became established.

Fast forward to now. I restarted my 75 gallon aquarium after my huge Oscar finally passed away. It was 12 years at least, maybe more. I sold all other huge cichlids to a local aquarium shop. But kept my Oscar. Now I started an African cichlid tank with 2 Clown Loaches and 2 Blueberry Botias.
I lost a few at the start from nitrite poisoning. I checked everything except my nitrites and they were all perfect. I fertilized using peat at the very beginning underneath my gravel substrate. I even used some fertilizer sticks I was attempting to start a thick live plant aquarium as well. That failed. Everything died slowly except for one species that I can't remember now.

Anyway, after having the 16 cichlids left and the bottom feeders, I totally stopped doing water changes. Why do them when your water is nearly perfect? My 6 month old cichlids are making babies like crazy! (with a neutral pH) Since I also have the loaches, I have to compromise on the pH. I feed them a LOT 2-3 times daily with Cichlid Flakes, Freeze Dried Blood Worms, and Brine Shrimp. I have plenty of caves and hideouts with cracks and crevices for the babies. I have double the filtration as recommender with 2 outside filters.
I keep my LED aquarium light at 50% for 12 hours a day. I keep my temp at near 80 degrees. I also have a submersible pump with the housing wrapped with fine filter medium. I use this for added under water flow in the back length of the take. I rinse all my filter medium out once a month and add about 2 gallons of tap water that evaporates around the same time.
My nitrates and ammonia are almost non-existent. I use crushed coral and peat moss in filter bags that I buffer alternately to keep the pH near neutral. BUT NO MORE WATER CHANGES FOR ME! I hate doing them! -Joe R

Your system seems very effective and very proficient and stable. The fact that you keep Nitrogen so low is actually really cool! Although you have to watch out for old tank syndrome. Its usually the cause of letting an established tank go on without much water changes. Rather then me give my junk explanation of it here's a video


Although if you can keep up with this and avoid the old tank syndrome then i say....go for it.

 

Your system seems very effective and very proficient and stable. The fact that you keep Nitrogen so low is actually really cool! Although you have to watch out for old tank syndrome. Its usually the cause of letting an established tank go on without much water changes.
Although if you can keep up with this and avoid the old tank syndrome then i say....go for it.

Yes, I agree with that clip. But like I said, I have next to zero nitrates (if not zero according to my test kit) and a tiny bit of ammonia that totally disappears in a day. I also use 100 micro filter medium along with my regular filters and carbon infused in the filter medium. I bought some ammo carb, but I don't see the need for it right now. The water is crystal clear after an hour after large feedings. Fish aren't respiration unless they become very active in chasing each other. Their colors are vibrant. So until my water needs to be changed according to my "good" test kit, I refuse to go through that hassle.

 

Yes, I agree with that clip. But like I said, I have next to zero nitrates (if not zero according to my test kit) and a tiny bit of ammonia that totally disappears in a day. I also use 100 micro filter medium along with my regular filters and carbon infused in the filter medium. I bought some ammo carb, but I don't see the need for it right now. The water is crystal clear after an hour after large feedings. Fish aren't respiration unless they become very active in chasing each other. Their colors are vibrant. So until my water needs to be changed according to my "good" test kit, I refuse to go through that hassle.

The only recommendation I would give you is, is to not use carbon and instead use SeaChem Purigen. If anything will prevent old tank syndrome purigen will. It lasts for a LONG time and its reusable and sucks up much more then carbon.

 

The only recommendation I would give you is, is to not use carbon and instead use SeaChem Purigen. If anything will prevent old tank syndrome purigen will. It lasts for a LONG time and its reusable and sucks up much more then carbon.

If my carbon fails me, I'll give that a try. Thank You!

 

I have but one question: Do you have an explanation how your readings come to be? Because nothing in your description of the setup explains it. Do you rely mostly on chemical filtration? Anaerobic zones in the filters? Anything that explains how the nitrates can even be so low?

Also: Got a picture of the tank?

 

Your system seems very effective and very proficient and stable. The fact that you keep Nitrogen so low is actually really cool! Although you have to watch out for old tank syndrome. Its usually the cause of letting an established tank go on without much water changes.

Although if you can keep up with this and avoid the old tank syndrome then i say....go for it.

Thank you so much for this info! I've been guilty of old tank syndrome (although I never had fish deaths) and will change my ways.

 

Yes, I have pictures on my phone. I will try to get them to my computer then to this forum after I figure that out. The only chemicals that I use is carbon. I use peat to lower and crushed coral to raise the pH. I have plenty of water movement with 2 large bio filters and a under water pump for the back. I have hardly any plants left. Everything is in a biological balance, I think. But yes to verify, next to zero nitrates. I haven't changed the water at all in 4 months and it's still perfect. The fish are breeding like crazy. I had 3 mothers at once. They are caring for there young in 3 different caves. 2 on either end and one in the center.

 

Yes, I have pictures on my phone. I will try to get them to my computer then to this forum after I figure that out. The only chemicals that I use is carbon. I use peat to lower and crushed coral to raise the pH. I have plenty of water movement with 2 large bio filters and a under water pump for the back. I have hardly any plants left. Everything is in a biological balance, I think. But yes to verify, next to zero nitrates. I haven't changed the water at all in 4 months and it's still perfect. The fish are breeding like crazy. I had 3 mothers at once. They are caring for there young in 3 different caves. 2 on either end and one in the center.

Hmm... it doesn't add up. Nothing besides the carbon can explain the low nitrates. And I mean nothing. Biofilters should have Nitrates as the main nitrogen compound end product. If any the plants should suck up surplus nitrates but if you only have few left, this can't explain it either.

Do you regularly replace the carbon?

Or do you have emersed plants like pothos or monstera on your tank?
Edit: Thick layers of algae and aufwuchs may also use up nitrates.

Edit#2: I'm not saying it can't work, thing is just, I think we here as a community have a responsibility to find explanations for this to work, so the many beginners that come here don't get the wrong impression that this is easy to achieve while the key component is not known. Hope you know what I mean.

 

I have but one question: Do you have an explanation how your readings come to be? Because nothing in your description of the setup explains it. Do you rely mostly on chemical filtration? Anaerobic zones in the filters? Anything that explains how the nitrates can even be so low?

Also: Got a picture of the tank?

These pics are from this evening around 3am. I could send you a pic of my nitrate test result if you like?

 

The pictures don't show.

Na, it's fine. I don't doubt your readings, I just want to know how it can work in the first place. If no apparent reason shows, I would rather get a new NO3 test to be sure it's not because the test is beyond expiration date.

I'm extremely sceptical of cases like this, because all that have started posting here on the forum stating they don't do waterchanges anymore either had no explanation, fell for an expired test or tested wrong, or left out a decisive info.
But there have also been cases of trolling with the statement "no more waterchanges".

 

Hmm... it doesn't add up. Nothing besides the carbon can explain the low nitrates. And I mean nothing. Biofilters should have Nitrates as the main nitrogen compound end product. If any the plants should suck up surplus nitrates but if you only have few left, this can't explain it either.

Do you regularly replace the carbon?

Or do you have emersed plants like pothos or monstera on your tank?
Edit: Thick layers of algae and aufwuchs may also use up nitrates.

Edit#2: I'm not saying it can't work, thing is just, I think we here as a community have a responsibility to find explanations for this to work, so the many beginners that come here don't get the wrong impression that this is easy to achieve while the key component is not known. Hope you know what I mean.

Oh, I agree. I didn't think it was possible before either. All I do is throw all my dirty filters in a large bowl then rinse them out in the sink and replace them. That's it! No chemicals. Did you get my pics?

 

All I do is throw all my dirty filters in a large bowl then rinse them out in the sink and replace them.

Wait... you replace the filter media? Or do you just rinse it out and put it back? Do you use tank water or tap water for this?

No, pictures didn't show. You have to save them on your harddrive and then upload to the forum with the "attach photos" option. Linking to your mailbox doesn't work, one would need your password.

 

Ok, Finally

Oh, I agree. I didn't think it was possible before either. All I do is throw all my dirty filters in a large bowl then rinse them out in the sink and replace them. That's it! No chemicals. Did you get my pics?

 

No masses of algae and biofilm either... This is becoming more and more curious.

 

Wait... you replace the filter media? Or do you just rinse it out and put it back? Do you use tank water or tap water for this?

No, pictures didn't show. You have to save them on your harddrive and then upload to the forum with the "attach photos" option. Linking to your mailbox doesn't work, one would need your password.

Tap water only. Luke warm rinse as not kill any bacteria.
I keep everything as natural as possible including the lighting. People LOVE bright lights, but I think fish do not.

No masses of algae and biofilm either... This is becoming more and more curious.

No algae. I keep it in a dark corner with black out curtains.

 

Do you live in a country (like me) where the tap is not chlorinated?

I keep everything as natural as possible including the lighting. People LOVE bright lights, but I think fish do not.

Well, people and many plants. But I have a blackwater tank, we're on the same page there.

No algae. I keep it in a dark corner with black out curtains.

I see... What I don't see are the fish in the pictures.

Sorry, I would really advise you to get a new Nitrate test and try to do it as carefully as possible. I get the feeling it all sounds too good to be true.

 

Do you live in a country (like me) where the tap is not chlorinated?


Well, people and many plants. But I have a blackwater tank, we're on the same page there.


I see... What I don't see are the fish in the pictures.

Sorry, I would really advise you to get a new Nitrate test and try to do it as carefully as possible. I get the feeling it all sounds too good to be true.

I agree that it doesn't add up, but If the fish are actively breeding I really don't think nitrates are present in high amounts.

 

I agree that it doesn't add up, but If the fish are actively breeding I really don't think nitrates are present in high amounts.

African cichlids mostly refers to Malawi cichlids and those breed even in 80mg/l of nitrates. Nitrates alone are not a sole indicator for water quality, but the one that most people can actually measure.

 

I agree that it doesn't add up, but If the fish are actively breeding I really don't think nitrates are present in high amounts.

We have chlorinated water but our water has always been very good quality. With that said, I only add 2 gals of it a month to top off evaporation. I'm in the process of sending a photo of the test results I just did a few moments ago (after 4 months of NO water changes whatsoever).

 

African cichlids mostly refers to Malawi cichlids and those breed even in 80mg/l of nitrates. Nitrates alone are not a sole indicator for water quality, but the one that most people can actually measure.

I actually didn't know that they bred in such a high concentration of nitrates. Good to know.

We have chlorinated water but our water has always been very good quality. With that said, I only add 2 gals of it a month to top off evaporation. I'm in the process of sending a photo of the test results I just did a few moments ago (after 4 months of NO water changes whatsoever).

I understand the tap water is high quality, but with the nitrogen cycle nitrates end up in an aquarium. The question is how are those nitrates being removed exactly? Do you have zeolite or some form of filter media that removes them?

 

I'm intrigued too!

I may have missed it but are you using an API test tube test kit for Nitrates?
I only ask as that bottle needs to be shaken really well for it to work.
I forgot this morning (half asleep) and it measured no nitrate. Then when I tested again and did my "tap on the bench dance" with the bottle the reading was different.
Here's the difference in the photo....

 

I keep everything as natural as possible including the lighting. People LOVE bright lights, but I think fish do not.

I'm intrigued too!

I may have missed it but are you using an API test tube test kit for Nitrates?
I only ask as that bottle needs to be shaken really well for it to work.
I forgot this morning (half asleep) and it measured no nitrate. Then when I tested again and did my "tap on the bench dance" with the bottle the reading was different.
Here's the difference in the photo....

View attachment 789358

This explains it all

Oh, I agree. I didn't think it was possible before either. All I do is throw all my dirty filters in a large bowl then rinse them out in the sink and replace them. That's it! No chemicals. Did you get my pics?

I actually didn't know that they bred in such a high concentration of nitrates. Good to know.

I understand the tap water is high quality, but with the nitrogen cycle nitrates end up in an aquarium. The question is how are those nitrates being removed exactly? Do you have zeolite or some form of filter media that removes them?

No. I use nothing but carbon, peat, and crushed coral. You can see my nitrate results showing ZERO nitrates below. I posted everything I'm going to. Pics don't lie. I understand all of your skepticism, cuz I couldn't believe it myself!

Hmm... it doesn't add up. Nothing besides the carbon can explain the low nitrates. And I mean nothing. Biofilters should have Nitrates as the main nitrogen compound end product. If any the plants should suck up surplus nitrates but if you only have few left, this can't explain it either.

Do you regularly replace the carbon?

Or do you have emersed plants like pothos or monstera on your tank?
Edit: Thick layers of algae and aufwuchs may also use up nitrates.

Edit#2: I'm not saying it can't work, thing is just, I think we here as a community have a responsibility to find explanations for this to work, so the many beginners that come here don't get the wrong impression that this is easy to achieve while the key component is not known. Hope you know what I mean.

Same carbon-infused mesh I had for 6 months.

 

We have chlorinated water but our water has always been very good quality.

Doesn't matter how good the quality. Each time you rinse the media in that you kill beneficial microfauna. Basically: Your tank isn't (fully) cycled, thus not producing much nitrates and relying on carbon, bacteria in the substrate and regular cleaning of the filter media. This is balancing on the razor's edge. This can easily go haywire.

I may have missed it but are you using an API test tube test kit for Nitrates?
I only ask as that bottle needs to be shaken really well for it to work.
I forgot this morning (half asleep) and it measured no nitrate. Then when I tested again and did my "tap on the bench dance" with the bottle the reading was different.
Here's the difference in the photo....

That was also going through my mind.

Same carbon-infused mesh I had for 6 months.

Then this stuff doesn't work either. Doesn't make it better.

 

Doesn't matter how good the quality. Each time you rinse the media in that you kill beneficial microfauna. Basically: Your tank isn't (fully) cycled, thus not producing much nitrates and relying on carbon, bacteria in the substrate and regular cleaning of the filter media. This is balancing on the razor's edge. This can easily go haywire. Wrong and wrong...sorry. I've been doing this for 40 years. I've shown you everything I can. It IS possible cuz I'm experiencing it for 6 months. "Not completely cycled??" If it wasn't it wouldn't be 100% stable!....sheesh.
I'm just here to show you that IT IS possible to go without changing your water. I read about "Old Tank Syndrome" but it has never happened to me. If your water quality is perfect then "just leave it alone."

Do you live in a country (like me) where the tap is not chlorinated?


Well, people and many plants. But I have a blackwater tank, we're on the same page there.


I see... What I don't see are the fish in the pictures.

Sorry, I would really advise you to get a new Nitrate test and try to do it as carefully as possible. I get the feeling it all sounds too good to be true.

I have one of the best already. You can believe what you wish while I SMH.....LOL.

 

Allright, then do you have any proof or explanation beyond "It works!"? Or do you stick to just saying I'm wrong?

All I see here is bad pictures of a tank in which I can't even see fish or a sufficient amount of plants to reduce the expectable amounts of Nitrates and a nitrate test that can be from any tank or even tap water done with a test kit that is known to be sometimes tricky to use. Plus you say you rinse the filtermedia in chlorinated water and use months old carbon that won't do anything anymore.
All this without working chemical filtration or truckloads of plants? Sorry, but this is extremely hard to believe.

We have had lots of posts like your's on this forum, just in the time since I registered here, that have made beginners and/or themselves believe it's easy to have a tank running without waterchanges at all. The results most often were people asking for help because their tanks crashed.

I'm out and I want to make clear, I wanted to give it the benefit of the doubt.

 

Allright, then do you have any proof or explanation beyond "It works!"? Or do you stick to just saying I'm wrong?

All I see here is bad pictures of a tank in which I can't even see fish or a sufficient amount of plants to reduce the expectable amounts of Nitrates and a nitrate test that can be from any tank or even tap water done with a test kit that is known to be sometimes tricky to use. Plus you say you rinse the filtermedia in chlorinated water and use months old carbon that won't do anything anymore.
All this without working chemical filtration or truckloads of plants? Sorry, but this is extremely hard to believe.

We have had lots of posts like your's on this forum, just in the time since I registered here, that have made beginners and/or themselves believe it's easy to have a tank running without waterchanges at all. The results most often were people asking for help because their tanks crashed.

I'm out and I want to make clear, I wanted to give it the benefit of the doubt.

I came here to help using what I've experienced. You're not helping by making me out as some kind of liar. I took those pics at 3:00am. Guess what, That's when most fish sleep. Everything I told you is 100% truth. Whether you believe it or not is entirely up to you. Do you want to see pics of my fish when they wake up? YOU CAN HAVE A BALANCED TANK WITHOUT DOING WATER CHANGES. I know this all goes against your book knowledge. Sometimes you have to "experience it" to realize the "real" truth. Have a great day!

I came here to help using what I've experienced. You're not helping by making me out as some kind of liar. I took those pics at 3:00am. Guess what, That's when most fish sleep. Everything I told you is 100% truth. Whether you believe it or not is entirely up to you. Do you want to see pics of my fish when they wake up? YOU CAN HAVE A BALANCED TANK WITHOUT DOING WATER CHANGES. I know this all goes against your book knowledge. Sometimes you have to "experience it" to realize the "real" truth. Have a great day!

Mr. MacZ from my old country: After I attend a doctor's appointment and my fish tank lights go on at exactly 9am at 50% illumination, I will have "better" pics for you. I have lots of hobbies, but photography isn't one of them. You'll be able to see some of the cute little baby Africans that I also just "leave alone". "If it isn't broke, don't try to fix it." Maybe I can give you some tips on how to breed Africans "NATURALLY." It's simple really. Just balance your tank "NATURALLY." My Ph is neutral. 0 Nitrates. 0 Nitrites. 0 Ammonia Hardness is usually based on pH so I have little interest there. Did I say my water is absolutely perfect after 4 months of doing nothing except rinse out my filters in that "toxic" tap water??? I must say however that you learnt a lot of zealotry through your book's misinformation. It's kinda cute actually. I hope you'll be looking for more of my "bad" aquarium pics to further prove you aren't exactly the expert you thought you were. Cheers!

 

welcome to Fishlore mate

I do have to agree, if your ammonia and nitrites are "almost nonexistent" then your tank isn't cycled. You won't get 0 nitrates without biomedia or at least way, way overfiltering. But you don't use any media, only peat and and crushed coral

The mystery here is why your ammonia and nitrite don't spike more.

Out of curiosity, what are your ammonia and nitrite readings anyways? are they like 0.25 or are they 1 ppm or something?

 

welcome to Fishlore mate

I do have to agree, if your ammonia and nitrites are "almost nonexistent" then your tank isn't cycled. You won't get 0 nitrates without biomedia or at least way, way overfiltering. But you don't use any media, only peat and and crushed coral

The mystery here is why your ammonia and nitrite don't spike more.

Out of curiosity, what are your ammonia and nitrite readings anyways? are they like 0.25 or are they 1 ppm or something?

Here we go again. How many years does it take for a tank to cycle? Remember, I'm on my 40th year at this hobby. And if it isn't cycled, then it never will and that would be awesome too. Just like Mr. MacZ, you can also see my pics with healthy 6month old Africans with 3 of them having fry already in a "non-cycled" tank! Amazing Mate! Cheers, Cherio, and all that rot!

 

Here we go again. How many years does it take for a tank to cycle? Remember, I'm on my 40th year at this hobby. And if it isn't cycled, then it never will and that would be awesome too. Just like Mr. MacZ, you can also see my pics with healthy 6month old Africans with 3 of them having fry already in a "non-cycled" tank! Amazing Mate! Cheers, Cherio, and all that rot!

Just a question lol. Also the first time we've spoken so lets keep it light. For some people a small amount of ammonia is 1 ppm and that's too much so I'm just wondering what your readings are

 

welcome to Fishlore mate

I do have to agree, if your ammonia and nitrites are "almost nonexistent" then your tank isn't cycled. You won't get 0 nitrates without biomedia or at least way, way overfiltering. But you don't use any media, only peat and and crushed coral

The mystery here is why your ammonia and nitrite don't spike more.

Out of curiosity, what are your ammonia and nitrite readings anyways? are they like 0.25 or are they 1 ppm or something?

ZERO across the board. I left a pic of the test I did at 4 am this morning. I have never seen so many skeptics in one place in my entire life!

Just a question lol. Also the first time we've spoken so lets keep it light. For some people a small amount of ammonia is 1 ppm and that's too much so I'm just wondering what your readings are

0 almost 100% of the time. Barely tipped the scale once. It clears up after a day completely and thats after over-feeding the heck out of my fish 2-3 times a day.

ZERO across the board. I left a pic of the test I did at 4 am this morning. I have never seen so many skeptics in one place in my entire life!

0 almost 100% of the time. Barely tipped the scale once. It clears up after a day completely and thats after over-feeding the heck out of my fish 2-3 times a day.

What I'm trying to explain to all the nay-sayers in this thread is you do not have to do ANY water changes EVER IF your quality is near perfect. So why would you????

ZERO across the board. I left a pic of the test I did at 4 am this morning. I have never seen so many skeptics in one place in my entire life!

0 almost 100% of the time. Barely tipped the scale once. It clears up after a day completely and thats after over-feeding the heck out of my fish 2-3 times a day.

What I'm trying to explain to all the nay-sayers in this thread is you do not have to do ANY water changes EVER IF your quality is near perfect. So why would you????

I have double the filtration that is called for plus an extra submersible pump wrapped in filter media. Of Course I use LOTS of filtration. Some of these guys are flat out calling me a liar like I have something to gain for telling them lies. This is unbelievable to me. It seems like no one here has read anything about NOT changing the water. Some of them are doing 75% twice a week which is absolute nonsense! Why would anyone do that if they don't have to???

 

Hi welcome to FishLore!!

Just a quick reminder, questions are fine, healthy constructive debate is encouraged but it appears some members have come to an impasse.
When this happens, it's usually best to drop the argument and accept that there won't be an agreement and that's fine.
Not everyone will agree on each other's methods of fish keeping.

 

Hi welcome to FishLore!!

Just a quick reminder, questions are fine, healthy constructive debate is encouraged but it appears some members have come to an impasse.
When this happens, it's usually best to drop the argument and accept that there won't be an agreement and that's fine.
Not everyone will agree on each other's methods of fish keeping.

I agree. Thank you for controlling the situation.

 

The only recommendation I would give you is, is to not use carbon and instead use SeaChem Purigen. If anything will prevent old tank syndrome purigen will. It lasts for a LONG time and its reusable and sucks up much more then carbon.

If I recall, this product reduces the need for any water changes.

the issue is that fish live off minerals in the water, so water changes refresh the minerals as depleted by water aging in the tank.

the problem isn't water change or no water changes but maintaining a healthy eco-system capable of sustaining life.
fish will adapt to circumstances until 1 day they won't. it happens in nature and in the hobby.

I've looked into SeaChem Purigen and will likely start to use it at some point.

I do water changes solely based on how may tanks look, it could be 10% or 50%

some ppl hate chemicals but my feeling is that Seachem cares about fish and do extensive testing. Results may vary but I really enjoy their products.

OP - good luck and let us knwo how it goes.

I know when I startd my tanks, maintenance fo rme became an issue at around 6-8 months due to buidl up. But your filter may be betetr than mine & I know ppl do a lot of DIY adjustments.

Enjoy your fish and congrats on the breeding.

 

I don't really understand the benifet of artificially lowering the PH for an African Cichlid community.
I've been keeping African Cichlids for the past nine years. The Cichlids have done quite well with a PH of 8.2 and weekly water changes of 20% - 50%. Although African Cichlids are quite adaptable & might survive neutral parameters in the short term, I have to wonder about adverse long term physical effects. Curious to know what varieties of African Cichlids the OP is currently keeping.
I'm really not sure what "Old Tank Syndrome" is. My 65 gal. has been up & running 22 years. I'm still waiting.
Self sustaining community tanks are nothing new. They are typically heavily planted w/ low stock levels. Never seen or heard of a self sustaining African Cichlid tank.
I'm not the water change police & not concerned whether one conducts WC's or not. What I can say is that I have seen many neglected tanks both in private homes & businesses. Yellow dingy water & sick fish doesn't really make for a nice display. IMO, the common denominator for a tanks demise is usually lack of WC's.
I do appreciate the OP's point of view & look forward to updates.

 

I don't think there's anything unreasonable in OP's setup. He stated he has 2 filters, the mulm that builds up in those filters are a nitrate sink, they are microorganisms eating nitrates and growing.

When the mulm is flushed out (as OP does once a month), that is a removal of nitrogen from the aquarium.

Anyways, the only issue with no water changes is falling GH and KH values over time. OP said he has crushed coral, so this will add a bit of GH and KH. So given this setup, you can definitely keep a tank running for quite a long time. Problems wont arise until trace elements are depleted. This can be years, decades, who knows...

 

My main issue with no water change tanks is what happens when all of a sudden something happens and water changes become necessary. Just this week fish have been lost in 2 different tanks from 2 different folks. The fish in question had slowly gotten used to the parameters of the water in the tank as they gradually moved away from the parameters straight from the tap.

And then one day something happens and a big water change is performed. Fish start dying and we are left to figure out why. It is simple. They were used to the water they were in and had slowly adapted to it. It was the sudden change to fresh water that caused the issue.

I wish you well with your no water change tank and wish you continued success with it. Most of us here deal with folks new to the hobby every day. We try to be careful with the advice we give. I will admit I do somethings a bit different than some of the things I advise but like you I have been in this hobby for a very long time.

We are all here to learn. I am sure you have a lot to share with folks here but what you are doing is for experienced folks. We don't want folks new to this hobby to think they can just put fish in a glass box and expect them to thrive without doing water changes. Maybe someday they will reach that point but before then they need to understand what they are doing and how to get there.

 

I don't really understand the benifet of artificially lowering the PH for an African Cichlid community.
I've been keeping African Cichlids for the past nine years. The Cichlids have done quite well with a PH of 8.2 and weekly water changes of 20% - 50%. Although African Cichlids are quite adaptable & might survive neutral parameters in the short term, I have to wonder about adverse long term physical effects. Curious to know what varieties of African Cichlids the OP is currently keeping.
I'm really not sure what "Old Tank Syndrome" is. My 65 gal. has been up & running 22 years. I'm still waiting.
Self sustaining community tanks are nothing new. They are typically heavily planted w/ low stock levels. Never seen or heard of a self sustaining African Cichlid tank.
I'm not the water change police & not concerned whether one conducts WC's or not. What I can say is that I have seen many neglected tanks both in private homes & businesses. Yellow dingy water & sick fish doesn't really make for a nice display. IMO, the common denominator for a tanks demise is usually lack of WC's.
I do appreciate the OP's point of view & look forward to updates.

I also have clown loaches in the tank that thrive at ,6.0 -6.5 . It's a community tank. I also have blueberry botias another bottom feeder. I have been negligent for 40 years with water changes. This time I won't be doing any unless I have to of course. But I'm extremely happy how perfect everything has been and I want to keep it that way. I'll be putting more pics up on this subject very soon. This tank has been rock stable accept for the pH I must adjust for the sake of the loaches imo.

 

I'm really not sure what "Old Tank Syndrome" is. My 65 gal. has been up & running 22 years. I'm still waiting.

Your tank will never experience "Old Tank Syndrome". I have to think what causes it is what I explained in my last post. You take very good care of the water in your tanks. We aren't so much taking care of fish, we are taking care of water. As long as we do that fish will thrive.

As most of y'all know I always stress fresh clean water is the very best thing we can give our fish. There are those that don't agree with the amount of water I recommend changing out each week but I have to think it is the main reason I have never had to deal with any of the many diseases I read about here every day.

We each have to choose how we want to care for our own tanks. Once we have the basics down we may be able to experiment. For the new folks reading this thread. No water changes are working for the OP right now and have been for 6 months (4 months of no water changes so far). Only time will tell if it is going to be sustainable. Hopefully we will get updates on this tank as time goes by. I would love to follow along and see how it is going from time to time.

 

I'm a big Loach fan too. I keep Y. Modestas (probably your Blue Berry Loach) Berdmorei Tiger Loach & YoYo Loaches. All do well in a PH of 8.2.
Clown Loaches are often seen in African tanks w/ elevated PH levels.
Your Loaches probably would do just fine in your unadjusted tap water. Plus no more Yellow stained peat moss water.
Here's a pic of one of my Modesta Loaches. Is that what you call a Blue
Berry?