I Give Up! Ammonia Issue - Page 4

Ben3721

Member
The ammonia isn't 8. You stepped over 7ph. Which is a extremely critical detail. Because harmless ammonium converts into deadly ammonia at that point. And your fish didnt react. So the ammonia isn't that high.

At 1ppm ammonia fish will have somewhat red gills, at 2ppm they will be very red and the fish may start flashing. At 3 or 4ppm their slime coat is gone and ammonia burns will blacken their scales and they will then die from either poisoning or infection. Over 5ppm beneficial bacteria will start to die... That is all based on having a ph over 7. You don't have any of these issues. Dont attempt to mess with your ph however, that will cause more harm than good.

These tests we all use are sensitive tests. They react to things on purpose to get a result, you have used many many many products that could alter a test. You have many products lingering in your tank that were labeled to effect ammonia. One is known to lock ammonia to 8ppm in many threads like yours.


You can't keep using a 5 gallon bucket for water changes on a 29 gallon tank, your killing yourself lifting that much water every day. You should find a easy way to do 50% water changes daily. Buy a small water pump, stick to just water changes with prime to the buckets water only. Your filter needs to have a proper bio stage. The plastic ones with holes in them are a sale gimmick, ceramic bio media is the way to go. Also gravel has good biological bacteria in it that handles 30% roughly of the ammonia once established. Until then the fish waste sits in it and brews ammonia, vacuum gravel a bit to help that. Lastly beneficial bacteria in a bottle/bag is most likely dead on arrival, there's a chance it isn't but you probably aren't getting real bacteria. Go to your local small fish store, no big box store, ask for some bio media from one of their tanks to kickstart yours, and pack it around the ceramic bio media after a large water change then keep up with those water changes daily. You should succeed after 5 to 7 weeks. No more artificial products to throw off your tank. Feed lightly. Also to read a tube test you go into a well lite room, hold the tube up to a white section of of test sheet with a quarter inch gap and then read it. If you hold it right to the paper or look downwards at the test tube it will appear much darker than it really is and will only scare you.

Also gh and kh test expire very fast. Well beyond their marked dates and will make your tests drift higher the older they get. Api's ammonia, nitrite and nitrate tests still work when expired, however their nitrate #2 bottle becomes crystallized if it's not beaten against a table for a solid minute every month.

You will succeed, you may have bumps in the road getting there but just remember we all started somewhere. I started the hobby the hard way with a goldfish at the fair 9 years ago. Rip.
 

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