How To Treat Ick

How can I treat ick on a kissing gourami ??

 

There is a lot of medication you can buy. From fizzing tabs to Liquid medication, there's a great variety. How bad is the ich? Can you post a picture? Also, what are your water parameters? Ich can be caused by a lot of stuff, including bad water quality, as well as adding new fish that haven't been quarantined before being added. If you don't have a way of testing your water quality, there are strips you can buy (which are less accurate but are more affordable than other options) and there is liquid API test kits which are usually pricey but give you better results. If you test water and your Nitrates, Nitrites, and Ammonia are all above zero, do a 25%-50% water change immediately (the higher the numbers are, the more water you should take out) and fill it back up with water that matches the pH and temperature. Also add water conditioner before adding the new water into the aquarium to make the water safe for the fish (in case it isn't already). If the Ich has spread too much, it may be too late for the fish. Please provide more info on the topic so the Fishlore Community can help this fish!

 

There is a lot of medication you can buy. From fizzing tabs to Liquid medication, there's a great variety. How bad is the ich? Can you post a picture? Also, what are your water parameters? Ich can be caused by a lot of stuff, including bad water quality, as well as adding new fish that haven't been quarantined before being added. If you don't have a way of testing your water quality, there are strips you can buy (which are less accurate but are more affordable than other options) and there is liquid API test kits which are usually pricey but give you better results. If you test water and your Nitrates, Nitrites, and Ammonia are all above zero, do a 25%-50% water change immediately (the higher the numbers are, the more water you should take out) and fill it back up with water that matches the pH and temperature. Also add water conditioner before adding the new water into the aquarium to make the water safe for the fish (in case it isn't already). If the Ich has spread too much, it may be too late for the fish. Please provide more info on the topic so the Fishlore Community can help this fish!

Can you please PM me , !! Asap

I have many questions and I rather get one opinion on how to do t then reading a million comments you seem to know what your doing and I don't know how to PM but I know you so please to help my baby girl

 

If your certain its ick, the best thing to do is increase the temperature to around 86°F, ick is a protozoan meaning it has a life cycle, it is impossible to eridicate it while it incased in its cyst ( the white spots you see on your fish which give it one of its common names "White spot disease" (although it not actually a disease ) by increasing the temperature you will push it through it its life cycle back to its free-swimming time faster, increasing the odds of your fishs survival in which it can then be eridicated In My Experience the high temperature will do this on its own although if available most would recommend moving the fish at this time to a hospital tank and dosing the tank with some anti-ick medication although I don't see this as necessary. Just remember that at the higher temperature there will be less dissolved oxygen in the water so daily water changes of atleast 25% will be necessary.

Hope this helps !

 

If your certain its ick, the best thing to do is increase the temperature to around 86°F, ick is a protozoan meaning it has a life cycle, it is impossible to eridicate it while it incased in its cyst ( the white spots you see on your fish which give it one of its common names "White spot disease" (although it not actually a disease ) by increasing the temperature you will push it through it its life cycle back to its free-swimming time faster, increasing the odds of your fishs survival in which it can then be eridicated In My Experience the high temperature will do this on its own although if available most would recommend moving the fish at this time to a hospital tank and dosing the tank with some anti-ick medication although I don't see this as necessary. Just remember that at the higher temperature there will be less dissolved oxygen in the water so daily water changes of atleast 25% will be necessary.

Hope this helps !

Okay , I have a kissing gourami a sucker fish and a little black fish idk what kind in there , do all of them have to be treated ??

 

Only thing is the thing on the nose is NOT Ich ! Always be 100%:sure before starting(heath)treatment cause outher disease will benefit of higher temps. II think it is another kind of external parasite.

 

I agree with DoubleDutch-- this could either be an external parasite or a result of a fight between two fish. Sometime injury results in a little clear/white Ish bubble formation on the skin. My pearl Danio received one on his lip. Could be from them "Kissing" and before or after the battle, the other fish had attacked that guy above his lip. Maybe he missed? Maybe it was his first kiss? LOL sorry not the time to be joking but I thought it was kinda funny. Anyway, check and see if your fish has signs of Ich besides just the spots or if he's still acting normal. Sometimes fish with Ich will rub themselves on ornaments or the substrate trying to scratch themselves if they have Ich or another fungal infection.

Also, I tried to PM you but it won't let me. Not sure why. If you go to messages and click "new message" and type in my username, my name should pop up. It may be because of my age or something? Not sure!

 

Can you please PM me , !! Asap

You must have 50 posts before you can either send or receive PM's

 

I agree with DoubleDutch-- this could either be an external parasite or a result of a fight between two fish. Sometime injury results in a little clear/white Ish bubble formation on the skin. My pearl Danio received one on his lip. Could be from them "Kissing" and before or after the battle, the other fish had attacked that guy above his lip. Maybe he missed? Maybe it was his first kiss? LOL sorry not the time to be joking but I thought it was kinda funny. Anyway, check and see if your fish has signs of Ich besides just the spots or if he's still acting normal. Sometimes fish with Ich will rub themselves on ornaments or the substrate trying to scratch themselves if they have Ich or another fungal infection.

Also, I tried to PM you but it won't let me. Not sure why. If you go to messages and click "new message" and type in my username, my name should pop up. It may be because of my age or something? Not sure!

Its okay no I only have one gourami in there and she has no one to fight with because the sucker fish stays in a corner lol
But how do I treat that then ?? And she does have ich tho I put another picture of her whole body

Only thing is the thing on the nose is NOT Ich ! Always be 100%:sure before starting(heath)treatment cause outher disease will benefit of higher temps. II think it is another kind of external parasite.

Then what should I treat this with ?

Not a huge fish expert so I have no idea

 

That second gourami photo is definitely ick to me, but not the bump in the first photo. I'm just finishing my first treatment of ick. I tried the (86) temperature method, but I think that stressed my cool water fish too much. I increased the temp to 80 to speed up the ick's lifecycle, but 86 was too much for them. I am dosing Seachem ParaGuard daily right after a 50% water change daily, and thorough sand vacuum every other day. It is all cleared up now (day 5), but I'm going to keep dosing and daily-water-changing for 3 more days to be certain. No fish deaths.

**I only did 86 degrees for 3 days. I didn't do it for the full 2 weeks because of stress. My tank is normally set for 70 degrees. I'm not saying the temperature method doesn't work.

 

Ahh I see, I took a closer look and saw the ich on the fins. Try doing 10-30% water changes everyday as well as removing any carbon filter cartridges and treating the fish for Ich. There's a lot of medications for Ich, but just make sure it says it treats Ich on the box/bottle. If there aren't any catfish you can also dose some aquarium salt into the tank. The package the salt comes in will tell you the correct dosages to use.

Also, if you do have a Catfish, you could give him a salt bath in a small plastic tub instead-- I'm not experienced on salt baths though so you may have to look up a tutorial!

 

Best way to handle ick? I believe my tank has ick in it because a few of my fish have white little spots all over them. I cranked up my temp to 82 but didn’t dose with any medication. Any help would be nice for them young fresh

 

Temps up medicine thorough gravel vac every 2 days and continue a week past the last parasite dropping off the host once all is gone slowly drop temp and back to normal

 

What type of medicine? Will it stain my tank?

 

ApI super ick cure I've used, no stains but after treatment is successful I'd do a very large water change use A/C to leach out any remaining medicine. don't forget ensure extra air to help replenish the oxygen as warmer temps less oxygen in the water. Some have used salts but I've had no luck with salts but is a less invasive treatment and natural might be worth a shot first but if you want it gone asap this treatment has been very successful for myself and others in the past.

 

82 is encouraged, but only when using medication. 82 degrees speeds the life cycle up so it’s gone faster. However, if you want to use just heat and no medication, temperatures need to be around 88 degrees for 2 weeks.

 

Yah I've used ick it cured my fish and 82 is good but after do a water change of 75 percent

 

So I added stress coat and waited a bit to add the super ick cure. Do I follow the directions and wait 48 hours to dose again?

 

Yes, make sure you remove any carbon in the filter.

 

Already took the carbon out of my canister and hob

Tank water was blue but now it all cleared up so it’s that okay?

 

What is the best course of action to treat ICH in a tank with 6 black neon tetras, one mystery snail, and one betta?

I think buying an adjustable heater and using hot (85°) temperatures and salt maybe my best course of action at this point?

I am worried about using medications because I have heard bad things about medications for my betta, and also a lot of medications have copper which is not good for my mystery snail.

 

The ich treatment is your best option. By this I mean the kit. Remove the snail for a week and reintroduce him to the tank, replacing the current filter cartridge

 

Remove any carbon from your filter before doing any medicated treatments tho. The carbon will suck up the medication and waste your money...

 

Seachem Paraguard works wonders and is safe for your snail. Plus no stress from the heat and no trying to calculate salt. Salt and heat is definitely not your best approach.

 

Agree with sfsamm, But heat (about 80F) does help when medicating the tank. Speeds up ich development and makes them more vulnerable to medication effect.

 

What is the best course of action to treat ICH in a tank with 6 black neon tetras, one mystery snail, and one betta?

I think buying an adjustable heater and using hot (85°) temperatures and salt maybe my best course of action at this point?

I am worried about using medications because I have heard bad things about medications for my betta, and also a lot of medications have copper which is not good for my mystery snail.

You're on the right track start with one teaspoon of salt per gallon raise the specific gravity to 1.003 for two weeks at 85 degrees

 

Agree with sfsamm, But heat (about 80F) does help when medicating the tank. Speeds up ich development and makes them more vulnerable to medication effect.

Heat while medicating also further reduces oxygen levels in a tank and depending on the stock can be stressful just to be increased. Medications and heat both displace oxygen content in water.

Heat does spread up the life cycle of ich but if you use Paraguard 14 days daily there's absolutely no need to raise temps at all. You can do daily substrate vacs and water replacement or just your regular weekly maintenance... Either way the medicine has been the most reliable med for ich I've ever used and is completely safe for the nitrogen cycle, sensitive fish and even many sensitive shrimp species have been proven safe with it.

Paraguard requires no change to current routine other than removal of carbon and 15 seconds a day to dose the tank.

 

I raised the temperature of the tank to 82* and dosed with a half dose of Malachite green.

Lost no shrimp, snails, or kulhI loaches.

 

Heat while medicating also further reduces oxygen levels in a tank and depending on the stock can be stressful just to be increased. Medications and heat both displace oxygen content in water.

Heat does spread up the life cycle of ich but if you use Paraguard 14 days daily there's absolutely no need to raise temps at all. You can do daily substrate vacs and water replacement or just your regular weekly maintenance... Either way the medicine has been the most reliable med for ich I've ever used and is completely safe for the nitrogen cycle, sensitive fish and even many sensitive shrimp species have been proven safe with it.

Paraguard requires no change to current routine other than removal of carbon and 15 seconds a day to dose the tank.

Safe for bettas also? I don't know the specific terminology, but I have read before because of the way they're breathing system is, most medications are really bad for them.

Seachem Paraguard works wonders and is safe for your snail. Plus no stress from the heat and no trying to calculate salt. Salt and heat is definitely not your best approach.

And is also safe for my betta?!

 

You are referring to the Labrynth organ, and my gourami (profile pic) has the same organ and has had no issues with aquatic medication. Just make sure to change filter cartridges after medicating. Hope this reassures/helps!

 

Safe for bettas also? I don't know the specific terminology, but I have read before because of the way they're breathing system is, most medications are really bad for them.

And is also safe for my betta?!

Paraguard is entirely safe for them.... That labyrinth organ can be sensitive to meds based on herbal oils such as Melafix and Pimafix. When dosing Melafix or Pimafix (or similar) it's best to use 50% dosing and be sure that there is plenty of surface agitation and work both the agitation and dosage up slowly each day watching closely for stress indicators.... Or just use a med that doesn't have so much to worry about lol... Like Paraguard.

 

Seachem Paraguard works wonders and is safe for your snail. Plus no stress from the heat and no trying to calculate salt. Salt and heat is definitely not your best approach.

Seachem website specifically says to remove all invertebrates... Are you sure this is safe for my snail?

You are referring to the Labrynth organ, and my gourami (profile pic) has the same organ and has had no issues with aquatic medication. Just make sure to change filter cartridges after medicating. Hope this reassures/helps!

Using a sponge filter, would I need to change this, also?

**NEW PRIBLEM**
I can not get paraguard until next thursday due two shipping, and the holidays, and not having an available local store that sells seachem products.... so... NOW WHAT?

 

Seachem website specifically says to remove all invertebrates... Are you sure this is safe for my snail?

I've personally dosed high grade neocardinia shrimp, mystery snails, assassin snails, nerite snails, rabbit snails, a variety of different pest snails and extremely med sensitive fish such as Gnathonemus PetersiI as well as a huge array of other fishes.

I've never so much as had an indicator of stress and have never lost a single member of any tank when using it.

I am entirely confident that when dosed per directions with any species I've listed above for snails that it is completely safe.

 

I've personally dosed high grade neocardinia shrimp, mystery snails, assassin snails, nerite snails, rabbit snails, a variety of different pest snails and extremely med sensitive fish such as Gnathonemus PetersiI as well as a huge array of other fishes.

I've never so much as had an indicator of stress and have never lost a single member of any tank when using it.

I am entirely confident that when dosed per directions with any species I've listed above for snails that it is completely safe.

Sounds like a plan to me.... see my above comment ^^ I cannot get paraguard until thursday...!

 

Using a sponge filter, would I need to change this, also?

No it's fine leave everything as is.

**NEW PRIBLEM**
I can not get paraguard until next thursday due two shipping, and the holidays, and not having an available local store that sells seachem products.... so... NOW WHAT?

Keep lights off lower temps to 76 feed every other day while there is ambient light in the room and wait... That is exactly what I would do. Lower temp will slow spread of ich and less food and lights will keep stock relaxed and able to better naturally resist the parasite... This isn't a cure just a safer way to delay treatment when necessary.... I've again utilized this a multitude of times over my nearly 30 years in the hobby as I live quite rural (200+ miles one way to the closest fish store) and as I said it doesn't stop or prevent anything but it does help noticeably to slow bacterial and external parasite infestations...

I've dropped temps as low as 70 on betta while waiting for delayed meds a rescued school of cardinal tetras brought me and my betta at the time ich. Anything more than a couple degrees though you want to take no more than one degree every 12 hours to prevent shock. Hence why I recommended 76, 75-76 is where I'd put them for the 6 days with ich.

 

No it's fine leave everything as is. Keep lights off lower temps to 76 feed every other day while there is ambient light in the room and wait... That is exactly what I would do. Lower temp will slow spread of ich and less food and lights will keep stock relaxed and able to better naturally resist the parasite... This isn't a cure just a safer way to delay treatment when necessary.... I've again utilized this a multitude of times over my nearly 30 years in the hobby as I live quite rural (200+ miles one way to the closest fish store) and as I said it doesn't stop or prevent anything but it does help noticeably to slow bacterial and external parasite infestations...

I've dropped temps as low as 70 on betta while waiting for delayed meds a rescued school of cardinal tetras brought me and my betta at the time ich. Anything more than a couple degrees though you want to take no more than one degree every 12 hours to prevent shock. Hence why I recommended 76, 75-76 is where I'd put them for the 6 days with ich.

I really appreciate the advice! I will do exactly this.

My betta does not seem visually infected, but multiple of my tetras, are.

 

I really appreciate the advice! I will do exactly this.

My betta does not seem visually infected, but multiple of my tetras, are.

You're ahead of the game in many ways already!

You can also do daily gravel vacs and replace the lost water while you wait. Part of the life cycle of ich is spent in the substrate and by doing daily gravel vacs you'll actually be removing a large quantity of it before it can become free swimming and look to attach to the fish again. I usually do them with meds daily anyway when dealing with ich just to stay ahead of it.

 

You're ahead of the game in many ways already!

You can also do daily gravel vacs and replace the lost water while you wait. Part of the life cycle of ich is spent in the substrate and by doing daily gravel vacs you'll actually be removing a large quantity of it before it can become free swimming and look to attach to the fish again. I usually do them with meds daily anyway when dealing with ich just to stay ahead of it.

I will be doing that as well!
Thanks, again!!! Keeping my fingers crossed, and waiting at this point.

 

Got this dude a few days ago
Was super excited and now I see these little spots on him
I have 1 upside cat (not really sure what kind he is) and various snails
My ammonia is at 0, nitrates 20, nitrites 0 .... temp 80 and I don't think I can get it higher than that
I have 8 platys, 10 guppies and 1 gouramis in a 36 gallon along with fish previously mentioned
I have heard ich-x is good... but what else is an option in case that is not available??

 

Looks more like coloration on its fins then the salt grains of ich. Every spot looks like its on a ray of its fin. If anyone sees different please chime in.