How To Treat Fin Rot

In my experience, fin rot will go away by itself if you keep the water pristine. Salt can help heal the fins too, or just use apI stress coat

 

IMG_1840

• ashy an
• Sep 6, 2017

Here's a pic of his fin. I do have stress coat, so I might isolate him with fresh water just in case

 

Can you guys please help.me treat fin rot. My little guys sick and it has to be fin rot. Water parameters are good 0ppm ammonia, 0ppm nitrite and 5 ish ppm nitrate. I think it was caused by another fish which I got from the pet store, he died in 4 days after I got him. He is a platy. On hand I have furan-2 but I could get salt tommorow. Also do I need to quarantine, it seems to got on afew tetras too.

 

Your going to want to look for a herbal medication for the fin rot. Fin rot in general is caused by dirty aquariums or sometimes injury. If you only have platys in your aquarium, I would add some salt and do a salt bath. Could you tell us the rest of your fish in there with him, because some species won't be very tolertable to the salt bath?

 

Your going to want to look for a herbal medication for the fin rot. Fin rot in general is caused by dirty aquariums or sometimes injury. If you only have platys in your aquarium, I would add some salt and do a salt bath. Could you tell us the rest of your fish in there with him, because some species won't be very tolertable to the salt bath?

Ah, I knew I forgot something, sorry for late reply but they're are neon tetras(10) 3 total platys and 3 dwarf gourami it's a 20 gallon tank btw. Also so then I could use melafix, which I don't have but I could get.

 

melafix works pretty well. So, instead of a saltwater bath now because of the species of other fish, I would do a epson salt dip which is where you take the fish out and dip it instead of adding salt to the aquarium.

 

melafix works pretty well. So, instead of a saltwater bath now because of the species of other fish, I would do a epson salt dip which is where you take the fish out and dip it instead of adding salt to the aquarium.

Ok how long? And what should I do it in? Like a cup or something? Also would it be fine to put in a few neon tetras cause I think they have it too.

 

Neons don't have a high tolerbility to the salt, so I suggest just going with the melafix for them. You could potenially just use the melafix for the platy also if you wanted. Normally, I will dip a fish for 2 minutes at 1.005 parts salinity. I will keep the fish in the net while dipping and just let the bottom of the net go in. Melafix works very well, and I only use the salt dip method if the condition is very bad or i'm out of meds. Because it is a herbal medication, it won't affect your aquarium much if you add it to the main system.

 

Neons don't have a high tolerbility to the salt, so I suggest just going with the melafix for them. You could potenially just use the melafix for the platy also if you wanted. Normally, I will dip a fish for 2 minutes at 1.005 parts salinity. I will keep the fish in the net while dipping and just let the bottom of the net go in. Melafix works very well, and I only use the salt dip method if the condition is very bad or i'm out of meds. Because it is a herbal medication, it won't affect your aquarium much if you add it to the main system.

I think I'll get melafix tommorow then because if I go with the salt method it will be to expensive, I need to get salt and the water salinity measurer. But if I were to go that method what would I do it in? And does melafix stain the seals?

 

Malachite green is usually the active ingredient in medications that stains the seals of the aquarium, you should have no problem with the melafix.

 

Malachite green is usually the active ingredient in medications that stains the seals of the aquarium, you should have no problem with the melafix.

Ok thanks I'll get them tomorrow, hopefully they have it in stock.

 

I noticed that my betta has fin rot. He’s in a 5gal
tank by himself. How do I treat it?

 

Fin rot will usually clear itself up with fresh clean water changed regularly. What are your water parameters and what is your usual cleaning routine?

 

Fin rot will usually clear itself up with fresh clean water changed regularly. What are your water parameters and what is your usual cleaning routine?

I'll need to check my parameters, but I change about 20-60% once a week and vacuum gravel every 2 weeks. I also rinse the decor and change it sometimes. He's had this for a couple months and I think it's been getting worse.

 

Minor cases of fin rot will typically clear up on their own with pristine water, but if it's not getting better after a long period of time, it's probably time to treat with something.

Bettas are very salt-tolerant, IME, so I'd dose with 1 TBSP of aquariums salt per 2 gallons. That should help fight off the infection. Salt is tough on live plants, so if you have any of those, you may want to treat with Erythromycin instead.

I'd test the water, though. Treatment will help, but if the water quality isn't good, it's not going to clear up completely and will come back over time.

 

I'll need to check my parameters, but I change about 20-60% once a week and vacuum gravel every 2 weeks. I also rinse the decor and change it sometimes. He's had this for a couple months and I think it's been getting worse.

First photo is from a couple weeks ago and the second is from today. (In a couple days I’m going to change the gravel to sand and get some more natural decor and plants)

 

You need to test the water parameters to see what the ammonia, nitrites, and nitrate levels are. The API liquid test kit is the best and most accurate. If the parameters are off it can definitely make the issue worse. Also when cleaning do not clean the decor. You are rinsing off all the beneficial bacteria that has attached. I would not change the substrate until you have the issue resolved. Beneficial bacteria lives there as well and removing too much can lead to cycling issue. Please test the water and let us know so we can give additional advice.

 

You need to test the water parameters to see what the ammonia, nitrites, and nitrate levels are. The API liquid test kit is the best and most accurate. If the parameters are off it can definitely make the issue worse. Also when cleaning do not clean the decor. You are rinsing off all the beneficial bacteria that has attached. I would not change the substrate until you have the issue resolved. Beneficial bacteria lives there as well and removing too much can lead to cycling issue. Please test the water and let us know so we can give additional advice.

According to my test strips (ik they're not the most accurate but that's all I have on hand at the moment) everything is in normal parameters except that the kH and pH are a little bit low

 

According to my test strips (ik they're not the most accurate but that's all I have on hand at the moment) everything is in normal parameters except that the kH and pH are a little bit low

Most brands of test strips are fine.

Can you give us exact parameters, please? What is "normal"? Numbers are a bit more helpful

 

Most brands of test strips are fine.

Can you give us exact parameters, please? What is "normal"? Numbers are a bit more helpful

Total hardness: 25
Nitrate: 10
Nitrite: 0
Cl2: 0
kH: around 5
pH: 6.4
I need to get test strips for ammonia so I don't have ammonia levels right now

 

Alright, I'd personally think that your water tests fine (though I'd get those ammonia strips to confirm!), so I would assume that it's probably a residual infection from the store. Betta cup water usually has high ammonia, and the fish will inevitably get a little beat up in shipping. Sometimes those wounds are worsened by the ammonia in the cup, and from there, infection can set in.

I would treat with 1 tbsp of salt per 2 gallons of water (so 2 1/2 tablespoons for your tank), and keep that in there for at least a week. Change water often, get some ammonia tests, and ensure that your water stays as close to pristine as possible. That combination should get rid of any infection he has, and ensure that he can heal so this doesn't happen again.

 

Alright, I'd personally think that your water tests fine (though I'd get those ammonia strips to confirm!), so I would assume that it's probably a residual infection from the store. Betta cup water usually has high ammonia, and the fish will inevitably get a little beat up in shipping. Sometimes those wounds are worsened by the ammonia in the cup, and from there, infection can set in.

I would treat with 1 tbsp of salt per 2 gallons of water (so 2 1/2 tablespoons for your tank), and keep that in there for at least a week. Change water often, get some ammonia tests, and ensure that your water stays as close to pristine as possible. That combination should get rid of any infection he has, and ensure that he can heal so this doesn't happen again.

Ok thank you so much! Just one thing, I've had this betta for 2 1/2 years so I don't think it would still be an infection from the store. What type of salt should I use?

Ok thank you so much! Just one thing, I've had this betta for 2 1/2 years so I don't think it would still be an infection from the store. What type of salt should I use?

Or should I try something like bettafix?

 

Ok thank you so much! Just one thing, I've had this betta for 2 1/2 years so I don't think it would still be an infection from the store. What type of salt should I use?

That does throw a wrench into the theory, for sure! I'd make sure there's nothing at all in the tank he's injuring himself on. Fin rot rarely happens with good parameters unless there's already wounds there, IME.

Aquarium salt would be my recommendation.

 

That does throw a wrench into the theory, for sure! I'd make sure there's nothing at all in the tank he's injuring himself on. Fin rot rarely happens with good parameters unless there's already wounds there, IME.

Aquarium salt would be my recommendation.

Yeah I think the decor might be a factor, I'm going to change the gravel to sand and get plants and stuff soon