How To Regenerate Seachem Purigen

From time to time I see people hesitant to actually go through the process of regenerating used purigen so I wanted to make a thread to show how to do it quickly and safely.

First your going to remove your old purigen bag from the filter. Definitely time for a cleaning.




Place the bag in a solution of unscented bleach and water (50:50 ratio). I use a clean paint mixing cup for this.





You'll start seeing a difference in just a few minutes.




Leave it to soak for 24 hours. A few stirrings wouldn't hurt either.




Give it a good rinse under the tap and place in clean water (tap is fine) with a large dose of Prime. I use 2.5 ml in this container.




Let soak for 8-24 hours and give it another rinse. Looks much better . There should be no smell of chlorine from here on out.




Place in clean water for short soak with small dose of prime (2 drops). An hour or two will do for this step.




After that give it a quick rinse in dechlorinated tap water. Congratulations your purigen is as good as new and can be safely place back into your filter.

 

Thanks for posting this, very helpful.

 

Good write up Eric. One good tip I would add, is perhaps to get 2 separate bags. This way it allows you time to get the dirty bag clean, while you just pop in the ready to go bag. Then in between now and the next time you switch out bags you have plenty of time to clean out the dirty bag with bleach, and then dechlorinate it thoroughly. Your Purigen would only be used half as much, so in theory it would last longer, as I have read at some point it doesn't recharge as easily or maybe it loses it's effectiveness. I believe that takes a few years depending on your use.

 

Good morning,

Thanks for the information EricV!

This page is surely worthy of a Bookmark. Please bookmark it for future use.

Thanks!

Ken

 

Did this for the first time last weekend. Amazed at how it literally made it like new again

 

The bleach tends to scare people away even though it's very easy to get rid of with a good rinse and some prime.

 

And chlorine will dissipate/evaporate over a short period of time.

 

If using Tetra EasyTest 6-in-1 strips to test your water, it includes a pad that tests for chlorine levels. I keep meaning to look up if there is a version I can get that is just the chlorine test to use on that last soaking before going back in the filter. This way, if there was any trace amounts chlorine left by then (although extremely unlikely) it would be picked up by the test then all that would need to be done is another rinsing and soaking cycle and everything would be as good as new again!

 

There is an extra step in the directions that doesn't make sense to me!

It says "For freshwater use, soak for 4 hours with a solution containing 2 tbsp of buffer per cup of water (Discus Buffer, Neutral Regulator).

Does anyone know what this step is for and if we have to do it??

 

I asked the same question when I started using Purigen two months ago. I haven't needed to regenerate yet but a member on this forum said it wasn't necessary (can't find the thread where I asked this).

But here's an older thread from someone who asked the same. Hope it helps.

 

Thanks the link helped quite a bit and it links back to this thread too!

I actually have acid and alkaline buffer so I may just do the last step. I haven't had a use for the acid buffer so at least the product will get used once in a while combining it with alkaline buffer for a neutral ph to soak in.

 

I emailed Seachem just to get clarification on whether or not its necessary to do the buffer step. Here is what they said:


Seachem Support 10256 (Seachem Laboratories)
Nov 30, 11:06

Hello Cindi,

Thank you for your email. Freshly regenerated Purigen has a mild capacity to lower pH in a poorly-buffered system. In a well-buffered system (most neutral-water community tanks qualify as well-buffered) there is no need to take this step, but if you are maintaining a blackwater tank or discus tank, it might be a good idea to soak the media in a buffer solution for four hours. You can certainly use Alkaline and Acid Buffer to accomplish this if you wish.

Thank you,

Seachem Support
10256

 

I emailed Seachem just to get clarification on whether or not its necessary to do the buffer step. Here is what they said:


Seachem Support 10256 (Seachem Laboratories)
Nov 30, 11:06

Hello Cindi,

Thank you for your email. Freshly regenerated Purigen has a mild capacity to lower pH in a poorly-buffered system. In a well-buffered system (most neutral-water community tanks qualify as well-buffered) there is no need to take this step, but if you are maintaining a blackwater tank or discus tank, it might be a good idea to soak the media in a buffer solution for four hours. You can certainly use Alkaline and Acid Buffer to accomplish this if you wish.

Thank you,

Seachem Support
10256

What would be considered a "neutral-water community tank"?

 

What would be considered a "neutral-water community tank"?

I take this to be a system with a ph of 7.0 or greater that has a good KH, perhaps minimum 100ppm or greater, where ph never drops. The more buffers, the higher the ph perhaps so the capacity to lower ph in those systems is minimal. That's my take on it anyways.....

I'll email back to clarify.

 

I take this to be a system with a ph of 7.0 or greater that has a good KH, perhaps minimum 100ppm or greater, where ph never drops. The more buffers, the higher the ph perhaps so the capacity to lower ph in those systems is minimal. That's my take on it anyways.....

Hmm... my pH is 7.8 but KH is 4 drops (forget the ppm on that - I think it's <100 tho). Do you think I need to do that step?

 

Hmm... my pH is 7.8 but KH is 4 drops (forget the ppm on that - I think it's <100 tho). Do you think I need to do that step?

I sent a reply asking them to clarify because I use RO. I buffer it up to about 100ppm with Alkaline buffer and my ph is 8.0 or so. I'll post what they say back since I'm making assumptions about their meaning

It was what I thought, here is there response:


Seachem Support 10256 (Seachem Laboratories)
Nov 30, 15:04


Thank you for your reply. Yes, a tank with a pH higher than 7.0 and KH of 100 ppm or greater would certainly qualify as well-buffered. You should not need to buffer the Purigen before using it in your system.

Thank you,

Seachem Support
10256

 

I'm thinking then I don't need to buffer it either? My GH is 9 drops if that factors into it at all.

 

I'm thinking then I don't need to buffer it either? My GH is 9 drops if that factors into it at all.

They are referring to your KH, carbonate hardness. I think 4 drops is 71.6 or close (can't remember the exact multiplier). I guess just see if your ph drops after you regenerate it the first time and have some baking soda handy if it does

 

Will do. And thanks for reaching out to them. This helped me a lot too!

 

I just went through the process and it works like a charm. I believe you can do it about 10 times not sure about that I guess until you feel it's not working properly. Going to test my PH as I finished the process last night and see if it changed the PH before the cleaning it was about 7.2/7.5

Dolfan
I just left the Matrix with the form while cleaning the other one. How are you keeping the two day old Purigen assuming your putting back the clean one or are you leaving the new one in and then switching out when that needs to be cleaned.
But the question is How are you keeping the extra one?

EDIT: I put my Discus up for sale and I would really like someone from here to get them. Problem is I can't ship them really don't know how and don't want to take the chance. I believe you need to inject c02 in the bag.
Make an offer I'll take anything reasonable.

 

CindiL,
So, after the regeneration process and putting the Purigen back into the filter on Friday, I tested the pH today and it stayed the same at 7.8!
Greenplant, did you get a chance to test yours?

 

Yes I did and everything remained the same PH 7.6 without using the last step. I rinsed it very well after the 24 hours straight from the tap and then rinsed it again after putting a drop of Prime into a bucket (small amount) of water and shished it around a bit. It's funny you get a little paranoid because of the bleach.

Thanks Cindil for taking the time to email them.

 

I have a low pH tank (6.5 for Neons and Rasboras), so I used the buffer.

My pH still crashed.

I think I'm done with the time/expense/worry of regenerating.

 

You can use hydrogen peroxide too. It takes longer and does not require rises or prime treatment. It takes around 2-3 days with 3% peroxide. I want to try some food grade 12% but at the cost for that using bleach becomes more economical.

3% Peroxide is about 88 cents for a quart. You need enough to cover the purigen bag.

To finish just let dry peroxide turns into water in light.

 

I have a low pH tank (6.5 for Neons and Rasboras), so I used the buffer.

My pH still crashed.

I think I'm done with the time/expense/worry of regenerating.

Hi, At a PH of 6.5 you will barely have any nitrifying activity going on. Are you manipulating your PH to go that low? If so, not recommended unless maybe you're trying to have ideal situations to breed them? Neons will do fine in a ph up to the low 8's (as will "most" fish).

You can use hydrogen peroxide too. It takes longer and does not require rises or prime treatment. It takes around 2-3 days with 3% peroxide. I want to try some food grade 12% but at the cost for that using bleach becomes more economical.

3% Peroxide is about 88 cents for a quart. You need enough to cover the purigen bag.

To finish just let dry peroxide turns into water in light.

The problem with this is you are not supposed to dry it out because according to Seachem you'll get tiny cracks in the media and then it won't be able to absorb organics any longer.

 

The problem with this is you are not supposed to dry it out because according to Seachem you'll get tiny cracks in the media and then it won't be able to absorb organics any longer.

I don't remember ever reading that about it but I suppose drying it out is not completely necessary. Just expose it to enough uv light it should decompose the peroxide into water relatively quick.

 

Do you have to rinse it in bleach before adding to the aquarium??

 

None of my containers of purigen have ever suggested anything more than rinsing in tap water prior to the first use and that's all I ever do.

 

Okay thanks I must of miss read it.

 

Good write up Eric. One good tip I would add, is perhaps to get 2 separate bags. This way it allows you time to get the dirty bag clean, while you just pop in the ready to go bag. Then in between now and the next time you switch out bags you have plenty of time to clean out the dirty bag with bleach, and then dechlorinate it thoroughly. Your Purigen would only be used half as much, so in theory it would last longer, as I have read at some point it doesn't recharge as easily or maybe it loses it's effectiveness. I believe that takes a few years depending on your use.

this is what I do

 

Wanted to add that if you choose to cycle between two bags, you should store the unused bag in a ziplock bag with some RO/DI water to keep it moist. Ive read where some people even store it in the fridge in the same manner.

 

What a great thread. Just what I was looking for. The above post was one of my final questions:

"Wanted to add that if you choose to cycle between two bags, you should store the unused bag in a ziplock bag with some RO/DI water to keep it moist. Ive read where some people even store it in the fridge in the same manner."

The unanswered question is if you "almost let it dry out."

Short story long (copied, pasted, and modified from a WORD document I typed up before doing a search):

I've been using two of the 100ml bags in each of my two tanks (29 and 38 gallon) for about four years and love the stuff. I have never regenerated any of it and just replace it. I run the bags in alternating cycles six months or so apart so each of the four bags one only needs to be replaced about once a year. I have never tried regenerating it before so I decided to try it a couple days ago.

I put a new 100ml bag of Purigen in one of my tanks and rather than throw the old one away, I went ahead and did the the 1:1 plain Clorox soak and it "looked like new" with an hour but I let it sit for about 20 hours then rinsed in lots of tap water. It smelled of almost zero chlorine or bleach. I then soaked in it for 24 hours in a small bowl of distilled water with one cap full of Prime and then swished it around in a quart of RO water. Now there is virtually ZERO smell of chlorine or bleach.

[I think it's unnecessary to use three tablespoons of Prime like the instructions say. A cap full is suppose to treat 50 gallons of tap water and as for the buffering ... that appears unnecessary as well.]

The only mistake I may have made is I let it "dry" on a paper towel for several hours and then I read here that if it gets "dry," that will cause cracks that may ruin it. The bag was still moist so I put it in a Ziplock bag with RO water per instructions above.

I hate to be "cheap" and kill my fish, but I don't see how using a product that has zero evidence of chlorine in it can hurt unless I let the bag partially "dry out."

I won't need to replace any of my other bags for a few months so I'll let this one sit in the fridge until then unless someone on here tells me not to take the risk.

Thanks for any help or advice.

Paul

 

I have a huge bowl filled with the Purigen packs I take out of my 3 tanks. I do bleach them, they do appear to get new again, but have yet to use a regenerated one in a tank. My main reason for not using them is I keep adding new (old used ones) to the bowl, so have to start the bleaching/rinsing/soaking in water thing over and over again. Plus, I never have prime in the kitchen which is where the bowl is soaking them in water. Right now, the bowl was bleached, but then I added 2 new old ones to the bowl and the process starts over again. I just find it easier I guess to plop a new bag in. I buy the prefilled ones and the bags fit every filter perfectly, one per each. I am also afraid to take the regenerated ones out of the bowl with water in it, because I do not know if I should allow it to dry out.

 

I tried it... it got brown but didn’t help with nitrates or phosphorus. And they are expensive

 

I also have two bags. One in use and one regenerated for use next.

 

Would amquel work in place of prime?

 

If you use Seachem Safe instead of Prime to dechlorinate the proper ratio is 2 grams of Safe to an ounce of water.
Ie;1 cup of water to 16 grams of Safe.