How To Quarantine? How Do I

Discussion in 'Saltwater Beginners' started by Lukethefishlover, Jun 14, 2018.

  1. LukethefishloverNew MemberMember

    Hello, I’ve decided to start to quarantine my fish. However, I’m not 100% sure how to do so. I would like to hear y’alls opinion on the specific steps I need to take in order to ensure that my fish in my display will remain healthy!

    Thank y’all in advance!!!

  2. FashoogaFishlore VIPMember

    There are a number of ways. You can have extra media that you have cycled in your tank and pull it out and just place it into the tank or the HOB.

    I like to use a sponge filter. That will soak in the tank. If I need it I pull it out and plug it into the QT.

    You can also just have a QT running all the time. Though if space is an issue you can set up easily as long as you have media to help support it.

    I like to change the water everyday. I run a 10 g QT system and since it's small ammonia can build up quick. I think it promotes good health doing it this way.

    If you don't want a glass tank you can always use a plastic tote at a Walmart or Target to use as a QT.
  3. DemeterFishlore VIPMember

    Get either a 10gal or 20gal tank/tote. Place a sponge filter in an established tank so it can cycle. This can take a month or two, so it is always good to have a spare sponge filter going at all times. When you have fish you want to quarantine simply pull the filter and place in the quarantine, now you have a cycled, ready to use quarantine for new fish.

    You can also have a spare HOB filter laying around, just place some cycled media from another tank and that works too. Just be sure to have a spare adjustable heater when needed. Ich is one of those diseases that can be killed off with just heat.

    I will usually do extra weekly water changes on quarantine tanks, just to keep things in tip top shape. I also feed the new fish extra food because half the time they are on the thin side.
  4. LukethefishloverNew MemberMember

    Is there any medications or hyposalinity/hypersalinity I should be doing?

    Thanks!!! What about those bacteria in a bottle things? Could I try that and feed the tank without any fish and test the water and make sure it worked?
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 14, 2018
  5. AdriifuWell Known MemberMember

    Here's a good article:  
  6. stella1979ModeratorModerator Member

    Hmmm, okay, I hate to disagree but we are talking about a saltwater tank here, and I would stress the importance of quarantine for anything entering a display tank, be it fresh or salt, but it is possibly even more important on the salty side. The article linked above is geared towards freshwater fish, which are not as always wild caught or housed at farms with other fish that are wild caught. When not purchasing fish that are specifically advertised as being aquacultured, you can bet that the fish has been at least exposed to wild pathogens.

    Also, the marine aquarium almost always contains inverts that are not tolerant of many medications, and possibly corals that are not only intolerant to medications but can be very pricey. The last thing you want to do is add an unquarantined fish to a reef tank. Getting something as simple as marine ich in a reef system can turn into a huge pain in the ... Just ask @Culprit, who just had to go through a three month fallow period because of ich. Fallow, meaning fishless, meaning he had to move his fish to another tank for treatment, then keep the reef fishless for 76 days to ensure that ich was no longer in the system. Since the tank couldn't be treated for ich, there could be zero hosts for the parasite for as long as it takes for it ALL to naturally die out.

    The article does give some great info on good quarantining practices though. It is important that fish are made comfortable in quarantine, and it's a good idea to make sure they're eating well and accustomed to the new environment before dosing anything for proactive treatment. I am a fan of proactively treating fish with a couple of gentle meds, as well as being prepared to be a little more aggressive if the fish show signs of illness.

    So, assuming the quarantine tank is cycled and comfortable for the fish, (PVC works great for hides), I will give new fish a week to be sure they are eating well and know their new environment. Then I will dose PraziPro as instructed, using it twice over about two weeks, changing water weekly as I do on all tanks. Prazi can be used for a second round if the fish shows signs of needing it.

    After Prazi, I'll run carbon and give the fish a few days without meds before moving on to something for parasites. Metroplex is a good option for seemingly healthy fish. Copper treatment is perhaps a bit harsher, but is possibly better, and probably what I would use if the fish were to show signs of external parasites, but copper treatment needs to be done with care. No meds are to be taken lightly, and anything considered should be thoroughly researched before use.
  7. CulpritFishlore VIPMember

    QT is very simple. All I use is a 10 gallon glass tank, Aqueon 30 HOB, spare heater, and some PVC tubes. In my battle chest of meds, that I keep on hand, is Rid Ich+, Prazi-Pro, Metroplex, Cupramine with a Salifert copper test kit, and Paraguard. Used for both fresh and salty.

    I cannot stress enough the importance of QT. As Stella said I had my reef almost fully stocked, one fish away. I had healthy fish, a YWG, and 2 clowns. The clownfish were added 2 weeks ago, and then one clown got sick and died within hours. He was fine the day before. I thought it was a freak accident, until 2 weeks later the next one died the exact same. So I got on and did some research and it turns out they had caught Brook and ich. No signs at all. As the YWG is ery thick-skinned and disease resistant, he did not catch anything. However, it was 99% likely that the diseases were living in his gills, and as soon as I added more fish they would catch it and die. So I had to remove the YWG, put him in QT, treat him with copper and metroplex for 30 days, and leave my main reef fallow for 76 days. I am just now almost at the end. I've had whole freshwater communitys wiped too from one fish I put in.

    what I do now is get them in QT for a few days, and then if they show no signs of disease, I will do a round of Prazi. Depending on the fish, if they're delicate like tetras, I will do Paraguard. If its hardier I will do a round of Copper. If they still show no external or internal diseases, I will keep them in QT until a month has passed and then they are cleared.

    Here are two exceptional pages for QT and disease treatment. You can click any of the blue links to continue.  
  8. LukethefishloverNew MemberMember

    Is there any type of medication that I should avoid for tangs?
  9. CulpritFishlore VIPMember

    Check out this page. Basically if you have to risk a harsher med you may have to but preferabley stay to the safe ones.

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice