How To Find The Cause Of Algae Question 

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jake37

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Ok. I measured phosphate at 2.5 and thought perhaps it was too high. There is no nitrite; just about 20ish (15-25) ppm of nitrate (i have a range because the api colour coding is not concise - and it drifts).
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Nick72 in post 13 said hte plants were undernourished (not sure how he could tell from the picture - post #9) and i should add more fertilizer but i was concern the excess phosphate was part of the issue.

Vishaquatics said:
Phosphate is huge for plant growth and there shouldn’t be a phosphate remover.

Nitrite is toxic in aquariums. Nitrate is fine for both terrestrial and aquatic systems as long as it doesn’t get terribly high (100ppm+)
 

Vishaquatics

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jake37 said:
Ok. I measured phosphate at 2.5 and thought perhaps it was too high. There is no nitrite; just about 20ish (15-25) ppm of nitrate (i have a range because the api colour coding is not concise - and it drifts).
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Nick72 in post 13 said hte plants were undernourished (not sure how he could tell from the picture - post #9) and i should add more fertilizer but i was concern the excess phosphate was part of the issue.
2.5ppm phosphate is no where near excess. Excess would be 7-10ppm+ for lowtech tanks and probably like 20ppm+ for hightech tanks. I dose 15ppm PO4 per week in my hightech tanks with no issues whatsoever.

As for fert dosing, I'd say to stick with what you're doing right now and just adjust lighting and CO2
 
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jake37

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I had the phosphate units wrong - it is 2.5mg/l (seachem phosphate test kit for inorganic phosphate); max is 3.0 (for this test kit) -- not sure how you tell if there is 20ppm - tap is around 0.05 or 0.1.

Vishaquatics said:
2.5ppm phosphate is no where near excess. Excess would be 7-10ppm+ for lowtech tanks and probably like 20ppm+ for hightech tanks. I dose 15ppm PO4 per week in my hightech tanks with no issues whatsoever.

As for fert dosing, I'd say to stick with what you're doing right now and just adjust lighting and CO2
 

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jake37 said:
I had the phosphate units wrong - it is 2.5mg/l (seachem phosphate test kit for inorganic phosphate); max is 3.0 (for this test kit) -- not sure how you tell if there is 20ppm - tap is around 0.05 or 0.1.
2.5mg/l is the same as 2.5ppm.

I don’t necessarily determine 20ppm via testing, but rather 20ppm from what is doses into the tank via fertilizer. There are ppm calculators for aquarium ferts such as rotalabutterfly.com
 

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That's what you want.

Read down the page it says ingredients: Magnesium Sulfate USP - 100%

That's fairly definitive.

It also lists one of its uses as a Saline Laxative. It wouldn't do that if it had additives.
 
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jake37

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Ok. I try some tomorrow when I do a water change; hopefully it won't kill the loaches or angel fish (I'm sure they will both try to eat it).

Nick72 said:
That's what you want.

Read down the page it says ingredients: Magnesium Sulfate USP - 100%

That's fairly definitive.

It also lists one of its uses as a Saline Laxative. It wouldn't do that if it had additives.
 

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jake37 said:
Ok. I try some tomorrow when I do a water change; hopefully it won't kill the loaches or angel fish (I'm sure they will both try to eat it).
Fully dissolve the Epsom Salts in a glass of tank water, then reintroduce the glass of water to your tank.

That way no fish will eat a lump of Epsom Salts
 
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jake37

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Ok. Thanks. Was debating on either burying it under the plants or dissolving it. both had advantages. Naturally if i bury it hte loaches might dig it up. Walgreen stuff was external use only - will check grocery store. I presume external use only is a formality (legality) but better safe than sorry.
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Whole food store brand explicitly states it can be used internally (if others care).

Nick72 said:
Fully dissolve the Epsom Salts in a glass of tank water, then reintroduce the glass of water to your tank.

That way no fish will eat a lump of Epsom Salts
 
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It might be too early to draw a conclusion but I think the epson salt is working. The plants that were coated in algae (and i presume were dead - very back of the tank) have suddenly put out very healthy new growth at the top; like wise the side piece (pictured) has suddenly put very strong growth on the top. I'll follow up again in a week or two. I had assumed all the holes in the new leaves of the ulvaceus was due to the clown loaches (the bulbs from the same lot are doing very well in another tank while barely growing in this tank) - i guess it wasn't the loaches but lack of magnesium. It raises the question why this tank doesn't have enough given the tabs and liquid fertilizer but I guess I can stop blaming the clowns.
 
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Just an update. The algae has begun to die down. New leaves for the ulvaceus still develop holes as well as some of the older leaves for the crispus (but there is no browning around the holes which i believe is the symptom for low potassium. One side of my jungle val (the part that runs along the top directly under the light) is a bit browner than the other side and the jungle val has no holes and continue to send out runners. The swords really aren't growing that well in this tank - given how massive the jungle val is becomming I've increase the amount of thrive+ i'm putting into the tank. Also no muck is growing in the top (i have some floating plant and a bit of muck would form in them - brown stuff - that completely stopped about two weeks ago and the floating plants are now very clean). The 29's continue to grow like wild flower and i have no clue why - it has very low nitrate and very low fertilizer and very low fish population (2 rams, 4 small kuhli (they were meant for the 120 but are angle food size right now), in nerite snail and one gigantic massive gold mystery snail - bit concern that snail is eating my ram eggs so might have to move it to the other 29 - not sure the rams are able to chase it away).
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Actually in the 120 the new leaves have holes on the ulvaceus so does this mean i need to add potassium and if so what is the easiest way ?
 
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