How To Do: Water Changes While Cycling

Brand new to the fish world! I got a brand new 10g tank three days ago and was talked into getting a betta the same day (I was planning to set up the tank before :banghead. A day later I found out about the Nitrogen Cycle, and I'm doing all the research I can. I understand that doing water changes will help with protecting your fish from the spikes but, my question is: Am I supposed to also use the siphon over/under the substrate or just do water changing? Also what % of water should be changed. Sorry if it's a dumb question!

My Water Levels:
Day One 4/10/20
Ammonia: 0.25 ppm
Nitrite: 0 ppm
didn't test Nitrate

Day Two 4/11/20
Ammonia: 0.25 ppm
Nitrite: 0 ppm
Nitrate: 0 ppm

 

Brand new to the fish world! I got a brand new 10g tank three days ago and was talked into getting a betta the same day (I was planning to set up the tank before :banghead. A day later I found out about the Nitrogen Cycle, and I'm doing all the research I can. I understand that doing water changes will help with protecting your fish from the spikes but, my question is: Am I supposed to also use the siphon over/under the substrate or just do water changing? Also what % of water should be changed. Sorry if it's a dumb question!

My Water Levels:
Day One 4/10/20
Ammonia: 0.25 ppm
Nitrite: 0 ppm
didn't test Nitrate

Day Two 4/11/20
Ammonia: 0.25 ppm
Nitrite: 0 ppm
Nitrate: 0 ppm

Do you have a water testing kit and/or Seachem Prime or something similar?

 

If you just have a Betta in a 10 gallon, dont freak out too much. Their bioload is TINY, especially if youre feeding it correctly, ie., a couple pellets once a day.

To do water changes, just siphon out about half the tank into a bucket, dump it and SLOWLY add the new water so it doesnt stir up the tank too much. You can pour it through your hand, through a soda bottle with holes poked through it, etc.

As far as cycling, its going to take longer than normal because youll want to keep your ammonia and nitrites low which slows the growth of your beneficial bacteria colony. But youre better off keeping the fish safe. I wouldnt even bother with a test kit to be honest if you only have a Betta in a 10 gallon. Just stay up with changing 30-50% of the water daily and GO EASY on the feeding.

 

With just 1 fish, I think the most you would need to change is like 50% twice a week. Take readings every couple days to make sure the ammonia doesn’t go over 1 and use Seachem prime when you do the water change and you should be fine. Or do a 75% water change and add tetra Safestart Plus to speed things along.

 

I'm getting Seachem Price tomorrow! I've been using the API Stress coat for conditioning but, I now know that doesn't detoxify ammonia and nitrites. Also already own a testing kit (API Masterkit). Thank you for all the quick replies!!

 

Once you get the Prime use it with your water changes, do them daily and youll never have a problem (Prime locks up ammonia and nitrites for 24ish hours making it safe for your fish). If you want to drop money on a test kit and you dont have it, get the API Master Test kit and only do water changes when ammonia and nitrites are nearing .5ppm. Its easy to do daily water changes on a 10 gallon and youll KNOW you have nothing to worry about doing it that way with the Prime. Since youre able to test your water (if theyre strips I dont trust them) you can even wait on water changes until levels are .5ppm. Anything over that, water change. Anything over 1ppm, do the appropriately sized water change to lower it to below .5ppm. So if you have 2ppm ammonia, youd need to change 75% of the water to bring it to .5ppm. Know what I mean? Dont get overwhelmed, its REALLY quite easy, especially with a single Betta in a 10 gallon. Any questions, ask here. LOTS of knowledgeable people willing to help.

 

An important aspect of WC's is matching the temp of new water.

Easiest way is to pull the thermometer from tank and hold it under faucet. That way you can adjust tap water and get it just right to match the tank's temp.