How many Cories can I start out with in the quarantine?

clovervalley
  • #1
I’m looking into getting some Cories for my 46g bowfront in the next month or two, but I’m having a problem configuring my setup. I currently have a 10 gallon tank available and cycled for a quarantine tank, and I also have a 5 that I can set up if necessary (and a seeded filter for that)

How many Cories can I start out with in the quarantine? Will they be fine without a large group while being quarantined? I want at least 10 in the long run but don’t want to overstock the quarantine. How long do you guys quarantine your fish for? If I were to get more snails, would they need to be quarantined?
 
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sfsamm
  • #2
I would think you could do a solid 8 week QT with 4-5 at a time depending on which Cories your getting. I always QT 8 week minimum. First 7 days with Paraguard, 7 days off then a round of Metroplex/Kanaplex food and monitor closely 4-5 weeks. I don't remove a fish until there's a minimum 4 week unmedicated clear period after preventative/prophylactic treatment.
 
A201
  • #3
You are way ahead of most people with your QT setup.
Cory cats are low waste producers. Your 10 gal. QT tank could handle 10 juvenile Cory's.
QT duration depends on a lot of factors. Species like Silver Dollars & Hatchet fish are Ick magnets, so a longer QT is warranted. African Cichlids & Plecos are a little tougher. Maybe a shorter QT duration. I've never QT'd a snail.
I think a good average QT duration is two or three weeks.
 
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clovervalley
  • Thread Starter
  • #4
You are way ahead of most people with your QT setup.
Cory cats are low waste producers. Your 10 gal. QT tank could handle 10 juvenile Cory's.
QT duration depends on a lot of factors. Species like Silver Dollars & Hatchet fish are Ick magnets, so a longer QT is warranted. African Cichlids & Plecos are a little tougher. Maybe a shorter QT duration. I've never QT'd a snail.
I think a good average QT duration is two or three weeks.

I also want to get a Bristlenose pleco but I think I’m going to wait until I get the Cories in and settled. How long would I quarantine a pleco? Do you ever pre Medicate or do you only Medicate when you see a need?

I would think you could do a solid 8 week QT with 4-5 at a time depending on which Cories your getting. I always QT 8 week minimum. First 7 days with Paraguard, 7 days off then a round of Metroplex/Kanaplex food and monitor closely 4-5 weeks. I don't remove a fish until there's a minimum 4 week unmedicated clear period after preventative/prophylactic treatment.

I’m most likely getting three-striped Corydoras, do you have any insight on whether it’s better to pre-treat even if you see no signs of illness?
 
jmaldo
  • #5
Pre-treat or not to pre-treat, different strokes for different folks. But your "Crazy if you do not QT. Basically,it depends on where you get your stock. Reputable breeders or the big "P" stores. I started out with the stores, after hearing about "Let's call them Issues" and Large opened containers of "Ick" treatment right out in the open. Nothing from their tanks gets near my tanks. Just my .02
Best of Luck on whatever you decide. But QT no matter what.
 
sfsamm
  • #6
Pre-treat or not to pre-treat, different strokes for different folks. But your "Crazy if you do not QT. Basically,it depends on where you get your stock. Reputable breeders or the big "P" stores. I started out with the stores, after hearing about "Let's call them Issues" and Large opened containers of "Ick" treatment right out in the open. Nothing from their tanks gets near my tanks. Just my .02
Best of Luck on whatever you decide. But OT no matter what.
This...
And for the record I pretreat as I mentioned above. I don't use any heavy meds unless something comes up in QT. My tanks overall have been entirely more healthy since I began pretreating but it also comes with its risks and cons in some opinions.

I don't think those that don't treat are wrong, it's just been my luck is better since I started pretreating so I've continued the practice.
 
clovervalley
  • Thread Starter
  • #7
Pre-treat or not to pre-treat, different strokes for different folks. But your "Crazy if you do not QT. Basically,it depends on where you get your stock. Reputable breeders or the big "P" stores. I started out with the stores, after hearing about "Let's call them Issues" and Large opened containers of "Ick" treatment right out in the open. Nothing from their tanks gets near my tanks. Just my .02
Best of Luck on whatever you decide. But OT no matter what.

I have a lfs that has been reliable so far with quality, and they also put signs up on tanks that “aren’t up to their standards yet” so that gives me hope that they actually care about their fish. I always look at the other fish in the tank before buying to make sure they’re healthy, I most likely won’t pre-treat but we’ll see! I don’t foresee myself buying fish from PetSmart or Petco anytime soon. I did buy my snails from there though and they’re fine. My dwarf gourami is from PetSmart and is the only original fish that survived my “let’s throw fish in a brand new tank without knowing about the nitrogen cycle”, but I lost countless others who were just plain sick

Don’t worry, I’m definitely quarantining my new fish... I don’t want my current “kids” to die when I could’ve prevented it!
 
A201
  • #8
With all due respect to fish keepers that utilize the preventitive med method during QT; I don't. I see no need to blindly medicate fish. You'll increase your chances for healthy fish by
-Buying from a trusted vendor.
-Familiarizing yourself with fish diseases & symptoms.
-Take time to truly observe the desired fish in the display tank.
-Have the manager feed the fish to ensure they are eating.
-Zero in on the most dominant, colorful, healthy looking fish, and have the manager scoop out those particular fish.
 
jmaldo
  • #9
Sounds like you have "Everything under Control". As mentioned my LFS and Local Aquarium club members and some forum members are also breeders. I trust their fish, but I still QT. I have too much invested in my "Wet Pets" to get careless. Good Luck
 

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