How do you lower nitrate

My nitrate is at 20 and I think that's too high how do I lower it?

 

20ppm of nitrate is ok. I usually like to keep my tank under 20 but most people will say anything under 40ppm is fine.

The two best ways to remove nitrates are:

1. Water changes
2. Live plants

 

With water changes, or a whole bunch of live plants. That being said, 20 isn't too bad depending upon how long it takes to hit that number.

If it's up to 20 between weekly water changes, not bad at all. If it's up to 20 a few hours after a water change, it's probably going to be a problem.

 

My nitrate is at 20 and I think that's too high how do I lower it?

Hello Scott...

If you're keeping fish from the pet store and not some rare species, you don't need to worry about the tank water chemistry as long as you're removing and replacing a lot of tank water every few days.

Forms of nitrogen, like nitrates take several days to build to harmful levels and by changing out half or more of the water every week, there's not time for nitrogen to build up before you remove it by changing the tank water.

Just be a good keeper of the tank water and you'll guarantee your fish a healthy tank.

Old

 

That's a pretty open ended statement that leaves a lot to interpretation, especially to the new aquarist...

I don't agree that water parameters are unimportant for "pet store fish". That's a bit like saying "your chihuahua is from the pet store, so don't worry about keeping it in the tool shed".

 

Hello Bla...

Sorry. I didn't really get your comparison with keeping the dog and the fish. The fact is, the vast majority of aquarium fish will adapt to the vast majority of public water supplies. They have for many decades. All you need to do to keep a basic tank with fish from the pet store, not rare species, is to change half or more of their tank water every few days to remove the dissolved waste material. The chemicals that make up the tap water isn't as important as keeping the tank water pollution free. The fish will adapt to the tap water, just use a good water treatment and change a lot of tank water and often. The fish will take care of themselves. Fish keeping is simple, if you simply keep the tank water clear of dissolved wastes.

Old

 

Not looking to throw stones. I am concerned that the above advice is probably acceptable for an experienced aquarist that knows what stressed fish look like, and have an understanding of how to rectify water quality issues without the assistance of test equipment.

I am however a firm believer of the saying if it's worth doing, then it's worth doing right. An inexperienced aquarist should learn these test methods, and corrective actions associated with test results.

I have read too many "why did my fish die" threads to think that an inexperienced person will always get it right with only water changes and gut feel.

 

Agree the above post is know kind of concerning.

But yeah water changes and plants help remove nitrates. One really good plant is pothos. Just hang them on the side of your aquarium

 

Agree the above post is know kind of concerning.

But yeah water changes and plants help remove nitrates. One really good plant is pothos. Just hang them on the side of your aquarium

Nice I like it

 

Agree the above post is know kind of concerning.

But yeah water changes and plants help remove nitrates. One really good plant is pothos. Just hang them on the side of your aquarium

I'm bringing a pothos home from work to do the same. I've found spider plants and lucky bamboo work great also.

 

Yep use to have lucky bamboo on my HOBs when I use to use the ones with cartridges! They help clean the cartridges since the roots will go through them and absorb all the debris and fish waste. Here's some pics:

 

HI team,

Today I had done API test kit aquarium water test where my ph showing 7.2 ppm then ammonia showing 0 ppm but in nitrate level showing around 40 to 80 PPM I don't know what to do please find the attachment as I am attaching with this comment and please suggest how to down my nitrate level in water 2 days back only I had gone through water change approx 20% thanks for your advice in advance.

 

water change...That ammonia is not 0....It looks over .5 from this picture. O ammonia is supposes to be yellow....Water changes ASAP. This is why your oscars are hiding

 

That lighting is really bad. The pH looks like you used the high range which goes down to 7.4, ammonia looks between 2 and 4, and nitrates looks 160.

 

water change...That ammonia is not 0....It looks over .5 from this picture. O ammonia is supposes to be yellow....Water changes ASAP. This is why your oscars are hiding

Ammonia looking yellow only due lighting issue may be this is showing green. And nitrate level showing dark

 

What tank size and stock? What filter do you have? What's your regular water change schedule? What's the nitrates from tap?

 

What tank size and stock? What filter do you have? What's your regular water change schedule? What's the nitrates from tap?

Tank size 20 gallon, mechanical filter & those is first time I am changing water in my aquarium and nitrates in tap water is low

 

Okay so there are only 3 tests here. Are you sure you are talking about your nitrates? What I see is your high pH which is 7.4. (So you need to do the regular pH to get an accurate result) And then the green is VERY green, meaning ammonia. There is no way that is a lighting issue. Unless you had a green light shining on that vial. It should be a lemon yellow, not Kelley green. That 3rd vial is pink, not red. Pink is Nitrites. With an I not an A. Nitrites are high. Nitrates are oranges and reds, not pink. Look at the cap. That is definitely pink.

Your tank isn’t cycled. From this picture.

First thing I would do is to redo your tests. And take a picture in a room with the light on. Put a piece of white paper behind the vials so we can see the colors better.

Second you absolutely need to do a water change. With your nitrites being above 2, I would do a 75% water change. Then retest your parameters. Be sure to test all 4 this time too.

When your high pH results is 7.4, that is the “default” reading. It means that your pH is lower than 7.8 and you need to use the regular pH test kit to get your correct pH.

 

HI team,

Today I had done API test kit aquarium water test where my ph showing 7.2 ppm then ammonia showing 0 ppm but in nitrate level showing around 40 to 80 PPM I don't know what to do please find the attachment as I am attaching with this comment and please suggest how to down my nitrate level in water 2 days back only I had gone through water change approx 20% thanks for your advice in advance.View attachment 387879

Hello Pra...

If you're keeping a basic, simple tank with fish from the local pet store, then it's best to just change out most of the tank water every week and not worry about the water chemistry. Large, regular water changes will remove toxins in the water before they build up and potentially harm your fish. An aggressive water change routine will maintain steady water conditions and this is all that's needed to keep the fish healthy.

Old

 

There is no reason not to have a cycled tank if it's 5 gallons or above. Smaller than 5 gallons can be difficult (but doable) to have a cycled tank. It's healthier for the fish. Water changes should still be done weekly, but a tank should be cycled.

So this is a 20 gallon with oscars in it?

 

Simple answer. Weekly water changes of 30% or more.

 

HI again, I just looked back at your previous thread as per this 20 gallon housing a group of oscars after a 55 gallon was cracked. I gave you impartial advice on the sizes of aquarium needed for a group of oscars. My advice is based on the health and welfare of the fish.

You wanted to argue that no local fish store in India would question keeping a group of oscars in your chosen environment. You are certainly correct; globally never mind in India very few profit making businesses refuse to take a customers money. Fish welfare sadly comes a distant second to profits. When fish die the customer is back to buy more.

A few days later you have a second thread with water quality issues. Every one here wants to encourage you in your hobby and give you impartial advice both for you and your fish. My advice is based on forty plus years of fish keeping and a degree in aquatic bioscience (amongst others).

I (and others here) only want to give you accurate advice for you and your fish. A store wants your money and will tell you what you want to hear.

A 20 gallon is not big enough for a juvenile group of oscars and a 55 gallon is not big enough for an adult group. Your water parameters and fish behaviour are confirming this for you.

Fish behaviour and water chemistry do not lie.

As regards opinions here and in shops ask yourself what motivates those opinions.

Please do your fish a favour and research fully tank size requirements for oscars. If you want experts in the field go to 'wet web media' where every enquiry is responded to by an expert aquarist. If you email them a question they will respond within a day.

Google 'Wet Web Media Oscar' 'Wet Web Media Oscars' and read expert advice given in the past. Unlike any forum the Wet Web Media 'crew' are all experts and many are professional aquarists.

Your filtration is struggling with bioload and is kicking out a lot of nitrate at the end which only has 20 gallons with which to dilute it. Your only choice is large daily (possibly multiple each day) water changes to dilute the nitrate until the 55 gallon is repaired and then it will probably require a large change every two days and more likely still everyday.

Oscars produce a lot of nitrogenous waste. A 10 inch Oscar is not comparable to 10 one inch tetras.

 

HI again, I just looked back at yur previous thread as per this 20 gallon housing a group of oscars after a 55 gallon was cracked. I gave you impartial advice on the sizes of aquarium needed for a group of oscars. My advice is based on the health and welfare of the fish.

You wanted to argue that no local fish store in India would question keeping a group of oscars in your chosen environment. You are certainly correct; globally never mind in India very few profit making businesses refuse to take a customers money. Fish welfare sadly comes a distant second to profits. When fish die the customer is back to buy more.

A few days later you have a second thread with water quality issues. Every one here wants to encourage you in your hobby and give you impartial advice both for you and your fish. My advice is based on forty plus years of fish keeping and a degree in aquatic bioscience (amongst others).

I (and others here) only want to give you accurate advice for you and your fish. A store wants your money and will tell you what you want to hear.

A 20 gallon is not big enough for a juvenile group of oscars and a 55 gallon is not big enough for an adult group. Your water parameters and fish behaviour are confirming this for you.

Fish behaviour and water chemistry do not lie.

As regards opinions here and in shops ask yourself what motivates those opinions.

Please do your fish a favour and research fully tank size requirements for oscars. If you want experts in the field go to 'wet web media' where every enquiry is responded to by an expert aquarist. If you email them a question they will respond within a day.

Google 'Wet Web Media Oscar' 'Wet Web Media Oscars' and read expert advice given in the past. Unlike any forum the Wet Web Media 'crew' are all experts and many are professional aquarists.

Your filtration is struggling with bioload and is kicking out a lot of nitrate at the end which only has 20 gallons with which to dilute it. Your only choice is large daily (possibly multiple each day) water changes to dilute the nitrate until the 55 gallon is repaired and then it will probably require a large change every two days and more likely still everyday.

Oscars produce a lot of nitrogenous waste. A 10 inch Oscar is not comparable to 10 one inch tetras.

Amen..

 

Ohhhh I had no idea this was a tank with oscars. Definitely explains the water chemistries.

I 100% agree with Taff

 

HI again, I just looked back at your previous thread as per this 20 gallon housing a group of oscars after a 55 gallon was cracked. I gave you impartial advice on the sizes of aquarium needed for a group of oscars. My advice is based on the health and welfare of the fish.

You wanted to argue that no local fish store in India would question keeping a group of oscars in your chosen environment. You are certainly correct; globally never mind in India very few profit making businesses refuse to take a customers money. Fish welfare sadly comes a distant second to profits. When fish die the customer is back to buy more.

A few days later you have a second thread with water quality issues. Every one here wants to encourage you in your hobby and give you impartial advice both for you and your fish. My advice is based on forty plus years of fish keeping and a degree in aquatic bioscience (amongst others).

I (and others here) only want to give you accurate advice for you and your fish. A store wants your money and will tell you what you want to hear.

A 20 gallon is not big enough for a juvenile group of oscars and a 55 gallon is not big enough for an adult group. Your water parameters and fish behaviour are confirming this for you.

Fish behaviour and water chemistry do not lie.

As regards opinions here and in shops ask yourself what motivates those opinions.

Please do your fish a favour and research fully tank size requirements for oscars. If you want experts in the field go to 'wet web media' where every enquiry is responded to by an expert aquarist. If you email them a question they will respond within a day.

Google 'Wet Web Media Oscar' 'Wet Web Media Oscars' and read expert advice given in the past. Unlike any forum the Wet Web Media 'crew' are all experts and many are professional aquarists.

Your filtration is struggling with bioload and is kicking out a lot of nitrate at the end which only has 20 gallons with which to dilute it. Your only choice is large daily (possibly multiple each day) water changes to dilute the nitrate until the 55 gallon is repaired and then it will probably require a large change every two days and more likely still everyday.

Oscars produce a lot of nitrogenous waste. A 10 inch Oscar is not comparable to 10 one inch tetras.

Agree 100%

 

That lighting is really bad. The pH looks like you used the high range which goes down to 7.4, ammonia looks between 2 and 4, and nitrates looks 160.

That is how it looks to me too.

 

I don't believe that your tank is cycled. Your ammonia level should be at zero...your Nitrite should be at zero and the only way to bring down Nitrate is to do water changes. Doing water changes can also screw with your cycle as most tap water contains chlorine.

 

I don't believe that your tank is cycled. Your ammonia level should be at zero...your Nitrite should be at zero and the only way to bring down Nitrate is to do water changes. Doing water changes can also screw with your cycle as most tap water contains chlorine.

That is why you use a dechlorinator. To prevent the chlorine/chloramine from killing your beneficial bacteria.

Water changes don’t mess with your cycle if you do them at strategic moments during cycling. They actually can recharge the tank and protect the fish.

 

So I finally got my ammonia and nitrite down to 0 and my nitrate is at about 10ppm. My question is, I know nitrates are good in a certain number, but when do they start to become dangerous? Ans how do I lower them when that happens?

 

Nitrates are brought down just by doing weekly 20-25% water changes. Just do that and they should stay down. They can be dangerous going into the 40s and over.

 

Another way to reduce nitrates is to keep live plants in your tank. A lot of fast-growing live plants soak them up. It doesn't replace the need for water changes, but you may be able to do smaller or less frequent water changes, or just benefit from having lower nitrate levels between changes.

 

Nitrates are brought down just by doing weekly 20-25% water changes. Just do that and they should stay down. They can be dangerous going into the 20s and over.

Think that is 50+

10 is great !

 

Most test state 80ppm+ are unsafe.
I think most people start changing water in the 20-40ppm range

 

You'll get tons of different answers. But I'd say nitrates under 40 are harmless unless you have very sensitive fish like saltwater or something. Your fish will be fine even with a little higher nitrates. But long term, you never want your nitrate over 40.

I still consider that too high since it will make your tank more prone to algae. I personally don't ever want my nitrate over 20 ppm. I keep it around 5-10 in my tank but it's a 75 gallon tank that is probably stocked under 50% capacity so managing nitrate is easy.

The best way to keep nitrate low is water changes and not overfeeding. Using live plants is another way to make a huge dent on nitrates. Fast growing plants absorb a lot of nitrate and help keep your water cleaner.

 

Lava or pumice hold denitrifying bacteria well- turn nitrates to n gas in the deep pores. Not vacuuming all substrate at once also helps build denitrifiers - I am convinced that is the real reason why planted tanks often have less nitrates- harder to vacuum fully and disturb the whole microbiome. Plants suck some nitrates up too but bacteria are more efficient .. and they use it for an oxygen source in a low oxygen environment( strip off the O releasing N gas) instead of using it for growth.

 

pothos are really good at sucking up the nitrates.

 

I do 10%-15% water changes every monday for my 37 gallon. nitrates stay pretty low

 

pothos are really good at sucking up the nitrates.

I think floating and emersed plants generally are most effective, because they have access to atmospheric CO2 to fuel faster growth.

 

pothos are really good at sucking up the nitrates.

Agreed. This plant works wonders.

 

My 10 gallon tank has been up and running for around a month now. I am having a hard time getting my nitrates under 20, in fact they've never been under 20. I do 25% water changes 2x a week. Do I just need to do more frequent water changes? How else can I get the nitrates to drop?