40 Gallon Tank Himalayan Salt to treat fish from Anchor Worm infestation?

Hello everyone

Can I use Himalayan Salt to treat my Goldfish & Guppies?
I would have gone with aquarium salt but none of the LFS have it readily available. Ordering it online is gonna take a week for delivery.
I'm trying to treat my fish from anchor worms.

This is what I have at my disposal now.


Nutritional Value does not contain any Iodine



Other info



I'm also treating my tank with a Copper-based solution. Can I combine the salt treatment with it or give a salt bath in a separate tank?

Thanks in advance.

 

Salt is useless for anchor worms. As is copper. Potassium permanganate would be the preferred method.

Otherwise there is a med by JBL (called Aradol plus) that works great. You should be able to get it via amazon.

 

Salt is useless for anchor worms. As is copper. Potassium permanganate would be the preferred method.

Otherwise there is a med by JBL (called Aradol plus) that works great. You should be able to get it via amazon.

Do you mean to say it doesn't kill instantly or doesn't kill at all?

The med you suggest is not available in india. Any other med suggestion that is available in India?

Also I see one of the goldfish with ulcer. Can I use this salt to give a salt bath to avoid secondary infection?

 

It doesn't work at all was what I meant. Salt and copper don't work against anchorworms.

Any chance of permanganate? That's the only other option I know, because I have no idea what other brands you might get.

Salt may make the ulcer burst and then it's basically almost over. Sorry, can't helpt there much.

 

Wouldn't any dewormer work though anchorworms aren't really worms ?

 

Wouldn't any dewormer work though anchorworms aren't really worms ?

Nope, as they are crustaceans. Biggest problem: Whatever kills them, doesn't remove them from the fish.

 

It doesn't work at all was what I meant. Salt and copper don't work against anchorworms.

Any chance of permanganate? That's the only other option I know, because I have no idea what other brands you might get.

Salt may make the ulcer burst and then it's basically almost over. Sorry, can't helpt there much.

I'll have to check at the pharmacy or chemical store. Will that work?

Nope, as they are crustaceans. Biggest problem: Whatever kills them, doesn't remove them from the fish.

I have juvenile guppy in the tank. Pulling out is not an option.

I found this research material online where it talks of salt treatment being effective. Not sure if the fish can handle 25g/L salinity level to kill the adult Anchor worms. However at 5g/L hatchlings will die.
FA185/FA185: Lernaea (Anchorworm) Infestations in Fish


Treatment as suggested in the link.

Treatment in case of Fish used for Human consumption:- It should be noted that the only available treatment regimen for Lernaea in food fish species is salt. Salt has been researched as a treatment for Lernaea with variable results. In one salinity study with L. cyprinacea, a percentage of adult females survived fairly prolonged exposure, up to 22.4 g/L seawater (ppt) for up to 6 days. At 25.6 ppt, adults were killed by day 2. On the other hand, hatching of lernaeid eggs did not occur at 8 g/L seawater, and development of younger life stages that did hatch was prevented if the parasites were exposed for at least 5–6 days at 4.8 g/L. For food fish that can tolerate the salinity, 4.8 g/L seawater for up to about 30 days is the best choice to control the parasite because other drugs and pesticides are not legal for treatment of food fish species. Because adult female lernaeids are more tolerant of salt, additional measures may be necessary to effectively break the parasite life cycle. Removing fish from the system for 7 days will break the life cycle in the tank because larval stages cannot survive without a host for this time period.

For non-food fish species, such as ornamental production or home aquarium situations, additional treatments besides salt are available. Prolonged immersion with an organophosphate such as trichlorfon is an effective treatment for ornamental fish. A 30-minute bath with 25 mg/L potassium permanganate will kill larval lernaeids, but adults may survive. Diflubenzuron (also known as Dimilin) is a pesticide that interferes with growth of the parasite and will kill molting adult and larval stages at a dose of 0.066 mg diflubenzuron/liter. (Again, if the drugs or pesticides described above are not an option, then 4.8 g/L seawater for up to about 30 days should help control the parasite as long as the fish can tolerate this salinity level. Fish can also be removed from the system for 7 days to break the lernaeid life cycle within the tank.)

Wounds resulting from an infection with Lernaea should be closely monitored, and optimal water quality should be maintained for the duration of treatment to minimize risk of secondary bacterial and fungal infection. Interestingly, there is evidence suggesting that successfully treated fish may become resistant to future infections with Lernaea.

 

I found this research material online where it talks of salt treatment being effective. Not sure if the fish can handle 25g/L salinity level to kill the adult Anchor worms. However at 5g/L hatchlings will die.
FA185/FA185: Lernaea (Anchorworm) Infestations in Fish


Treatment as suggested in the link.

Treatment in case of Fish used for Human consumption:- It should be noted that the only available treatment regimen for Lernaea in food fish species is salt. Salt has been researched as a treatment for Lernaea with variable results. In one salinity study with L. cyprinacea, a percentage of adult females survived fairly prolonged exposure, up to 22.4 g/L seawater (ppt) for up to 6 days. At 25.6 ppt, adults were killed by day 2. On the other hand, hatching of lernaeid eggs did not occur at 8 g/L seawater, and development of younger life stages that did hatch was prevented if the parasites were exposed for at least 5–6 days at 4.8 g/L. For food fish that can tolerate the salinity, 4.8 g/L seawater for up to about 30 days is the best choice to control the parasite because other drugs and pesticides are not legal for treatment of food fish species. Because adult female lernaeids are more tolerant of salt, additional measures may be necessary to effectively break the parasite life cycle. Removing fish from the system for 7 days will break the life cycle in the tank because larval stages cannot survive without a host for this time period.

For non-food fish species, such as ornamental production or home aquarium situations, additional treatments besides salt are available. Prolonged immersion with an organophosphate such as trichlorfon is an effective treatment for ornamental fish. A 30-minute bath with 25 mg/L potassium permanganate will kill larval lernaeids, but adults may survive. Diflubenzuron (also known as Dimilin) is a pesticide that interferes with growth of the parasite and will kill molting adult and larval stages at a dose of 0.066 mg diflubenzuron/liter. (Again, if the drugs or pesticides described above are not an option, then 4.8 g/L seawater for up to about 30 days should help control the parasite as long as the fish can tolerate this salinity level. Fish can also be removed from the system for 7 days to break the lernaeid life cycle within the tank.)

Wounds resulting from an infection with Lernaea should be closely monitored, and optimal water quality should be maintained for the duration of treatment to minimize risk of secondary bacterial and fungal infection. Interestingly, there is evidence suggesting that successfully treated fish may become resistant to future infections with Lernaea.

Yep, like I mentioned earlier. But to answer your original question, yes, Himalayan pink salt should work fine. Any non iodized (is that the right word lol) table salt without any anti caking agents should work. It has extra minerals as well which is the reason some people use it to "mineralize" their tanks.

 

Salt is useless for anchor worms. As is copper. Potassium permanganate would be the preferred method.

Otherwise there is a med by JBL (called Aradol plus) that works great. You should be able to get it via amazon.

Potassium permanganate won’t kill the females already attached to the fish.
dimilin will, but it won’t kill eggs so you’d need to repeat the dose in like 5 days.
The females anchored need to be removed, and the tank treated

 

Yep, like I mentioned earlier. But to answer your original question, yes, Himalayan pink salt should work fine. Any non iodized (is that the right word lol) table salt without any anti caking agents should work. It has extra minerals as well which is the reason some people use it to "mineralize" their tanks.

Potassium permanganate won’t kill the females already attached to the fish.
dimilin will, but it won’t kill eggs so you’d need to repeat the dose in like 5 days.
The females anchored need to be removed, and the tank treated

Okay, here is my plan of action.
1. Flush all the copper sulfate I have added so far over a period of 3-4 days with PWC.
2. Maintain a salinity of 5 ppt (5g/L) for 30 days to kill the hatchlings.
3. PP and Dimilin dip in a separate tank. (Guidance needed from you guys).
Will this work?

Few questions I have are.
1. 5ppt is too much or too little? In other research papers, the recommendation was for 13ppt. Will my guppies, Goldfish, and Indian Lotus Plant tolerate it for 30 days?
2. I think I can get PP not sure of Dimilin though. Any other alternative?

 

Okay, here is my plan of action.
1. Flush all the copper sulfate I have added so far over a period of 3-4 days with PWC.
2. Maintain a salinity of 5 ppt (5g/L) for 30 days to kill the hatchlings.
3. PP and Dimilin dip in a separate tank. (Guidance needed from you guys).
Will this work?

Few questions I have are.
1. 5ppt is too much or too little? In other research papers, the recommendation was for 13ppt. Will my guppies, Goldfish, and Indian Lotus Plant tolerate it for 30 days?
2. I think I can get PP not sure of Dimilin though. Any other alternative?

Ok you need to remove your fish... give them a salt bath. Remove the pests yourself with tweezers... keep them in this temporary tank.
Dose your main tank with dimilin. Redose with dimilin in 3-5 days.
In the tank your fish are in, you could dose with dimilin to kill any pests like babies or males that may have hitchhiked on the fish. But you need to dose your main tank 2 times with dimilin before returning fish.

 

As a side note, I always keep a little iodized salt in my aquariums. I use normal iodized salt with no anticaking agents. Iodine can actually help prevent pests because it dries them out. Ich is a great example of what can be prevented with iodized salt.

 

As a side note, I always keep a little iodized salt in my aquariums. I use normal iodized salt with no anticaking agents. Iodine can actually help prevent pests because it dries them out. Ich is a great example of what can be prevented with iodized salt.

This is the only product I could find with the least number of other ingredients. Will this work?

Bayer Barcelo Tablet For Monitor the Larvae of Anopheles Mosquito, Aedes Aegypti, Pack of 2 (5 Gram): Amazon.in: Garden & Outdoors

The composition of the ingredients is as follows.



Diflubenzuron concentration is 2% and I'm worried about the Citric Acid & Sorbic Acid. Please advice.

Details of the product in this link Barcelo Tablet