Hello bk...bkaiser3 said:
I need softer water with a ph around 7 to 7.5stella1979 said:
I have an RO for drinking water - bought it from Amazon. It's a seven stage filter ration system that remineralizes the water (stable PH). If you are interested, I can get the name for you. I would use it for my aquariums, but my tanks are too big and it only holds 75 gallons per day. Tastes fantastic though. Also, it won some water purity awards. My TDS is now almost nothing.bkaiser3 said:So i finally gave up on my fight against high nitrates in my tap water and ordered my ro unit. What conditioners are best for adding back trace elements and buffering the water to help against ph crashes.
why not a heavy planted tank....i mean you can make a fully planted tank and add the water with high nitrates and then when it lowers put it in the other tankbkaiser3 said:So i finally gave up on my fight against high nitrates in my tap water and ordered my ro unit. What conditioners are best for adding back trace elements and buffering the water to help against ph crashes.
So i have been researching and i will be using the alkaline buffer and replenish as well. How exactly do you test and add the conditioners? I have heard that after you produce your desired amount of RO water you should put a powerheard or airstone in it for 24 hours then test it to see where you are from the start. Is this true?stella1979 said:
That helps a lot thank you! I think i may use equilibrium instead of replenish so that i can switch to live plants in the future but it works about the same as replenish as far as mixing goes. I actually have a good container for mixing as i currently filter water through nitrazorb before putting in my tank. After some research i believe ill need both gH and kH of around 4.stella1979 said:I usually only need to make 6 gallons at a time. I use API's pH, GH & KH tests to assure I've reached the desired parameters. Here's my process... I do it like this because a more experienced aquarist told me to and it works.
Gather 6 gallons RO water into a Brute container (Brute, like the trash cans. They are food grade, I use a white 10 gallon Brute)
Add a powerhead to the Brute, suction cup it in about 6 inches below the waterline. I use a MaxiJet 900, in my experience it mixes up to 9 gallons well. It'll probably do more, but that's all I can fit. Keeping it close to the waterline creates good surface agitation. Oxygenating the water with good surface agitation helps you get your parameters stable quicker.... after you've added the buffer and Replenish of course.
So, for 6 gallons, I add 1/2 teaspoon alkaline buffer and 1 scant capful of Replenish. After 30-60 minutes agitating in the Brute my parameters are perfect... pH 8, KH 7, GH 10-12. I've been doing this long enough now that I don't test every time. I test every couple of months or if I've opened a new container of either product.
I would certainly suggest agitating longer and testing each batch more than once, at different times... just to make sure you're getting to, and staying where you need to with parameters. Hope that makes sense.
I also use FreshTrace. Tbh, I started with it just because Cindi told me she used it and I have the utmost trust in her. Fresh Trace will add additional minerals that are good for your fish. These minerals can be present in tap water, and most certainly are in nature's water, but of course, in our case would be stripped by the RO system.
That's how I've done it for about 5 months now. In the beginning I was nervous, so I mixed for hours and tested a lot. These days it's simple and I know water is ready within an hour of starting the mix. I feel comfortable and confident with the method because I stressed over it so much in the beginning.
Okay thank you! My nitrates come out at 0 which is my main reason for the ro unit to begin with.stella1979 said:I'm not sure about that... I never tested KH & GH of RO water before remineralizing it. For checking how pure water is, I use a TDS (total dissolved solids) meter and I've also tested RO for nitrates with API. In my case, my tap has a TDS of 324 and nitrates of at least 40ppm. After filtering through RO stages, I get a TDS of 19 and nitrates are still 3ppm. Only when I run my water through a full RO/DI system do I get a TDS of 0, meaning it is completely pure 100% water. I'm only after that for water that I mix with reef salt for a SW tank.
I don't know how much that helps, but what I'm trying to say is... you don't really need 100% pure water to remineralize and add to a fresh water tank. You can be assured that water that has gone through a decent and well maintained RO system is very clean, so clean that it does need to be buffered and remineralized.