Help With Remineralizing Ro Watee

bkaiser3

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So i finally gave up on my fight against high nitrates in my tap water and ordered my ro unit. What conditioners are best for adding back trace elements and buffering the water to help against ph crashes.
 

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bkaiser3 said:
So i finally gave up on my fight against high nitrates in my tap water and ordered my ro unit. What conditioners are best for adding back trace elements and buffering the water to help against ph crashes.
Hello bk...

How high a nitrate level are your talking about here? Nitrates are the end result of the nitrogen cycle, so unless the level is very high and remains very high for several days, you don't have much to worry about. Most hardy species you get at the local pet store will easily tolerate a nitrate level of 40 to 50 parts per million. Livebearing fish with the exception of Mollies, will tolerate a level much higher as long as the water chemistry stays constant.

Reverse osmosis units are pricey and waste a lot of tap water.

Old
 
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bkaiser3

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They are in access of 60 ppm straight from the tap, and i dont buy any fish from chain stores. I have the shipped from imperial in florida. But the nitrates are causing more problems than just risk to my fish. Ive tried several methods to remove them with no success so i have already bought the ro unit.

stella1979 said:
I suppose that depends on the pH/GH/KH you are trying to achieve. I use Seachem's Alkaline Buffer for KH, Replenish for GH and FreshTrace.
I need softer water with a ph around 7 to 7.5
 

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I too was sick of adding 40-60ppm nitrates to my tank and feeling panicked about the tank's nitrates being sky high a week after a water change. I also have a SW tank, so a RO/RODI unit was a good investment for me.

So, my tank's are ok with a pH of 8, which my usual dosage of the products above gives me. I do not have experience in using anything else. That said, when shopping for a buffer I chose Seachem's alkaline. They also have a neutral buffering product available, but I can't recommend it without doing some research.
 

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bkaiser3 said:
So i finally gave up on my fight against high nitrates in my tap water and ordered my ro unit. What conditioners are best for adding back trace elements and buffering the water to help against ph crashes.
I have an RO for drinking water - bought it from Amazon. It's a seven stage filter ration system that remineralizes the water (stable PH). If you are interested, I can get the name for you. I would use it for my aquariums, but my tanks are too big and it only holds 75 gallons per day. Tastes fantastic though. Also, it won some water purity awards. My TDS is now almost nothing.
 

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bkaiser3 said:
So i finally gave up on my fight against high nitrates in my tap water and ordered my ro unit. What conditioners are best for adding back trace elements and buffering the water to help against ph crashes.
why not a heavy planted tank....i mean you can make a fully planted tank and add the water with high nitrates and then when it lowers put it in the other tank
 
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bkaiser3

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Plants dont use enough nitrates to lower the water enough for 25 percent water changes each week. I change 30 gallons each week in my 125
 
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bkaiser3

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stella1979 said:
I suppose that depends on the pH/GH/KH you are trying to achieve. I use Seachem's Alkaline Buffer for KH, Replenish for GH and FreshTrace.
So i have been researching and i will be using the alkaline buffer and replenish as well. How exactly do you test and add the conditioners? I have heard that after you produce your desired amount of RO water you should put a powerheard or airstone in it for 24 hours then test it to see where you are from the start. Is this true?
 

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I usually only need to make 6 gallons at a time. I use API's pH, GH & KH tests to assure I've reached the desired parameters. Here's my process... I do it like this because a more experienced aquarist told me to and it works.

Thanks @CindiL

Gather 6 gallons RO water into a Brute container (Brute, like the trash cans. They are food grade, I use a white 10 gallon Brute)

Add a powerhead to the Brute, suction cup it in about 6 inches below the waterline. I use a MaxiJet 900, in my experience it mixes up to 9 gallons well. It'll probably do more, but that's all I can fit. Keeping it close to the waterline creates good surface agitation. Oxygenating the water with good surface agitation helps you get your parameters stable quicker.... after you've added the buffer and Replenish of course.

So, for 6 gallons, I add 1/2 teaspoon alkaline buffer and 1 scant capful of Replenish. After 30-60 minutes agitating in the Brute my parameters are perfect... pH 8, KH 7, GH 10-12. I've been doing this long enough now that I don't test every time. I test every couple of months or if I've opened a new container of either product.

I would certainly suggest agitating longer and testing each batch more than once, at different times... just to make sure you're getting to, and staying where you need to with parameters. Hope that makes sense.

I also use FreshTrace. Tbh, I started with it just because Cindi told me she used it and I have the utmost trust in her. Fresh Trace will add additional minerals that are good for your fish. These minerals can be present in tap water, and most certainly are in nature's water, but of course, in our case would be stripped by the RO system.

That's how I've done it for about 5 months now. In the beginning I was nervous, so I mixed for hours and tested a lot. These days it's simple and I know water is ready within an hour of starting the mix. I feel comfortable and confident with the method because I stressed over it so much in the beginning.
 
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bkaiser3

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stella1979 said:
I usually only need to make 6 gallons at a time. I use API's pH, GH & KH tests to assure I've reached the desired parameters. Here's my process... I do it like this because a more experienced aquarist told me to and it works.

Thanks @CindiL

Gather 6 gallons RO water into a Brute container (Brute, like the trash cans. They are food grade, I use a white 10 gallon Brute)

Add a powerhead to the Brute, suction cup it in about 6 inches below the waterline. I use a MaxiJet 900, in my experience it mixes up to 9 gallons well. It'll probably do more, but that's all I can fit. Keeping it close to the waterline creates good surface agitation. Oxygenating the water with good surface agitation helps you get your parameters stable quicker.... after you've added the buffer and Replenish of course.

So, for 6 gallons, I add 1/2 teaspoon alkaline buffer and 1 scant capful of Replenish. After 30-60 minutes agitating in the Brute my parameters are perfect... pH 8, KH 7, GH 10-12. I've been doing this long enough now that I don't test every time. I test every couple of months or if I've opened a new container of either product.

I would certainly suggest agitating longer and testing each batch more than once, at different times... just to make sure you're getting to, and staying where you need to with parameters. Hope that makes sense.

I also use FreshTrace. Tbh, I started with it just because Cindi told me she used it and I have the utmost trust in her. Fresh Trace will add additional minerals that are good for your fish. These minerals can be present in tap water, and most certainly are in nature's water, but of course, in our case would be stripped by the RO system.

That's how I've done it for about 5 months now. In the beginning I was nervous, so I mixed for hours and tested a lot. These days it's simple and I know water is ready within an hour of starting the mix. I feel comfortable and confident with the method because I stressed over it so much in the beginning.
That helps a lot thank you! I think i may use equilibrium instead of replenish so that i can switch to live plants in the future but it works about the same as replenish as far as mixing goes. I actually have a good container for mixing as i currently filter water through nitrazorb before putting in my tank. After some research i believe ill need both gH and kH of around 4.
 
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bkaiser3

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Okay so when testing gh and kh of ro water, how much yellow and green coloration are you looking for? Because i keep reading ro water should be 0,0 but mine is not. To get a bright yellow it took 8 drops and to get green it took 5. This cant be right.

And my ph is at 7.4, everywhere i read, ro water should be 0,0 and like 6 something for ph

Okay so i watched a few videos and some of them the people testing as soon as they saw a slight change they stopped. The water still looked clear with just a small tint of yellow or green. If this is how you do it then mine is 0,0. And just to clarify, my kh never turned blue, and my gh never turned orange. So does this automatically mean its 0,0?

So after my research i have decided that i did it wrong and that my levels are in fact 0,0. I was thinking it needed to be bright yellow and bright green but after research since my water never went blue or orange then all i needed was a hint of each color. Which both occured on the first drop.
 

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I'm not sure about that... I never tested KH & GH of RO water before remineralizing it. For checking how pure water is, I use a TDS (total dissolved solids) meter and I've also tested RO for nitrates with API. In my case, my tap has a TDS of 324 and nitrates of at least 40ppm. After filtering through RO stages, I get a TDS of 19 and nitrates are still 3ppm. Only when I run my water through a full RO/DI system do I get a TDS of 0, meaning it is completely pure 100% water. I'm only after that for water that I mix with reef salt for a SW tank.

I don't know how much that helps, but what I'm trying to say is... you don't really need 100% pure water to remineralize and add to a fresh water tank. You can be assured that water that has gone through a decent and well maintained RO system is very clean, so clean that it definitely needs to be buffered and remineralized.
 
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bkaiser3

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stella1979 said:
I'm not sure about that... I never tested KH & GH of RO water before remineralizing it. For checking how pure water is, I use a TDS (total dissolved solids) meter and I've also tested RO for nitrates with API. In my case, my tap has a TDS of 324 and nitrates of at least 40ppm. After filtering through RO stages, I get a TDS of 19 and nitrates are still 3ppm. Only when I run my water through a full RO/DI system do I get a TDS of 0, meaning it is completely pure 100% water. I'm only after that for water that I mix with reef salt for a SW tank.

I don't know how much that helps, but what I'm trying to say is... you don't really need 100% pure water to remineralize and add to a fresh water tank. You can be assured that water that has gone through a decent and well maintained RO system is very clean, so clean that it does need to be buffered and remineralized.
Okay thank you! My nitrates come out at 0 which is my main reason for the ro unit to begin with.
 
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