Help with Nicrew ClassicLED Gen 2 (and a water parameter question)

Cooperman411

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Helo Fishlore! I've read a ton of articles about plants and lights but still have questions. (And I added in one about my water.)
Tank Stats:
10 Gallon 20”X12”X10” – 39Liter 51x25x30cm
Temp: 77-79F/25-26C (No heater – just from the internal filter and lights)
Filter: Whisper Internal 10i, Tetra "Bio-Bag" (carbon and really thin filter media) and my own extra 1" of blue/white filter floss plus a bag of porous ceramic bio beads in a mesh bag. Took out their weird plastic brush looking thing.
Parameters: Ammonia 0, Nitrates and Nitrites 0, GH 4, KH 10, PH 7.4
Lighting: NICREW ClassicLED Gen 2
Light Specs: 90 white LEDs, 18 blue LEDs, 1160 Lumens, 4100 LUX(is that the same as temperature Kelvin?), PAR 70, 15 watts
Question/issue:
The lights are on (blue and white) for 10 hours a day. There’s a 15 min ramp up and down for each color. I can adjust it by percentage. Just playing with it I can barely tell the difference between 100% and 60%, down to 40% is noticeable but my understanding is PAR is the most important measure - and I assume that at 60%, I'll only have 42 PAR. I have a bunch of rotala and it is recommended to have between 100-200 PAR but it's growing 1/2 inch or so per week with 70 PAR. My concern is the eyes of my fish and inverts. So basically - dare I dial down the lighting, either percentage of intensity or number of hours on when I get around to adding fish & shrimp? And if so, how much?
Second question:
Is the KH at 10 and PH at 7.4 something to be concerned about? I’m hoping to add 6-10 chili rasbora and 10+ cherry shrimp at some point. The Malaysian driftwood makes the water a tiny bit yellow and I assume it’s affecting the PH, or KH, or both.
 

kimsch1005

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Messages
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Cooperman411 said:
Helo Fishlore! I've read a ton of articles about plants and lights but still have questions. (And I added in one about my water.)
Tank Stats:
10 Gallon 20”X12”X10” – 39Liter 51x25x30cm
Temp: 77-79F/25-26C (No heater – just from the internal filter and lights)
Filter: Whisper Internal 10i, Tetra "Bio-Bag" (carbon and really thin filter media) and my own extra 1" of blue/white filter floss plus a bag of porous ceramic bio beads in a mesh bag. Took out their weird plastic brush looking thing.
Parameters: Ammonia 0, Nitrates and Nitrites 0, GH 4, KH 10, PH 7.4
Lighting: NICREW ClassicLED Gen 2
Light Specs: 90 white LEDs, 18 blue LEDs, 1160 Lumens, 4100 LUX(is that the same as temperature Kelvin?), PAR 70, 15 watts
Question/issue:
The lights are on (blue and white) for 10 hours a day. There’s a 15 min ramp up and down for each color. I can adjust it by percentage. Just playing with it I can barely tell the difference between 100% and 60%, down to 40% is noticeable but my understanding is PAR is the most important measure - and I assume that at 60%, I'll only have 42 PAR. I have a bunch of rotala and it is recommended to have between 100-200 PAR but it's growing 1/2 inch or so per week with 70 PAR. My concern is the eyes of my fish and inverts. So basically - dare I dial down the lighting, either percentage of intensity or number of hours on when I get around to adding fish & shrimp? And if so, how much?
Second question:
Is the KH at 10 and PH at 7.4 something to be concerned about? I’m hoping to add 6-10 chili rasbora and 10+ cherry shrimp at some point. The Malaysian driftwood makes the water a tiny bit yellow and I assume it’s affecting the PH, or KH, or both.
I wouldnt worry too much about the fish/invertebrates eyes with that light. I have the same one on a 10 and while its bright, I dont believe it would do damage even at 100% brightness. Based on what the aquascaping pros use (extremely bright and powerful lights) I doubt that the Nicrew would cause any damage to fish.
My understanding is that rotala will grow pretty rapidly regardless, even sometimes especially in lower light as it reaches towards the surface to receive more.
As far as time goes, it depends on what you think your plants need. Recommended is 6-10 I believe, but the real test is algae, if you start having algae problems then consider shortening the time the light is on. Ive heard/read that fish should get at least 8 hours of darkness, so as long as you are allowing at least 8 hours of lights off, the fish should not be affected. Its really the plants you want to focus on.

A KH of 10 is very good as far as maintaing a stable ph. With a KH of 10, its likely you will not see any major shifts in your PH, which is a very good thing for fish. However, plants tend to do better in softer water, recommended about 3-6 KH, as well as GH.
Because your KH is so high, it is unlikely that the malaysian driftwood will affect the water parameters very much unless is leaching an extreme amount of tannins.
 
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Cooperman411

Cooperman411

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kimsch1005 said:
I wouldnt worry too much about the fish/invertebrates eyes with that light. I have the same one on a 10 and while its bright, I dont believe it would do damage even at 100% brightness. Based on what the aquascaping pros use (extremely bright and powerful lights) I doubt that the Nicrew would cause any damage to fish.
My understanding is that rotala will grow pretty rapidly regardless, even sometimes especially in lower light as it reaches towards the surface to receive more.
As far as time goes, it depends on what you think your plants need. Recommended is 6-10 I believe, but the real test is algae, if you start having algae problems then consider shortening the time the light is on. Ive heard/read that fish should get at least 8 hours of darkness, so as long as you are allowing at least 8 hours of lights off, the fish should not be affected. Its really the plants you want to focus on.

A KH of 10 is very good as far as maintaing a stable ph. With a KH of 10, its likely you will not see any major shifts in your PH, which is a very good thing for fish. However, plants tend to do better in softer water, recommended about 3-6 KH, as well as GH.
Because your KH is so high, it is unlikely that the malaysian driftwood will affect the water parameters very much unless is leaching an extreme amount of tannins.
Thanks! I'll throw in something floating (which based on the filters water flow will collect in one corner) and if the fish hate the light they can hide under them. Again, thanks for the input. I'll monitor the water parameters. I'm in Southern California and the water here is known to be very hard. As long as my water won't kill the chilis or the shrimp, I'm good! Will post photos when I have it stocked.
 

kimsch1005

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Cooperman411 said:
Thanks! I'll throw in something floating (which based on the filters water flow will collect in one corner) and if the fish hate the light they can hide under them. Again, thanks for the input. I'll monitor the water parameters. I'm in Southern California and the water here is known to be very hard. As long as my water won't kill the chilis or the shrimp, I'm good! Will post photos when I have it stocked.
No problem! What kind of shrimp were you looking to add? Ideal parameters to tend to vary depending on the kind of shrimp you want.
 
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Cooperman411

Cooperman411

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kimsch1005 said:
No problem! What kind of shrimp were you looking to add? Ideal parameters to tend to vary depending on the kind of shrimp you want.
Neocaridiia (sp?) cherry, blue, or emerald - was thinking of going red shrimp with the chili rasboras. But I'm torn as I like the blue ones a lot. Or maybe ghost? 5 cherry, 5 ghost, and one blue? I don't know.
 

kimsch1005

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Cooperman411 said:
Neocaridiia (sp?) cherry, blue, or emerald - was thinking of going red shrimp with the chili rasboras. But I'm torn as I like the blue ones a lot. Or maybe ghost? 5 cherry, 5 ghost, and one blue? I don't know.
Cool! I love shrimp. Knowing that though, most shrimp aside from amano/ghost shrimp don't tolerate high KH levels. You can purchase a Acid Buffer from seachem that will lower your KH levels so that they are ideal for the shrimp.
 

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