Help with my injured fish! Beginner

Discussion in 'Freshwater Fish Disease' started by grelsner96, Aug 2, 2014.

  1. grelsner96New MemberMember

    I added a small goldfish last night and a snail, both from Petco. Today, my three bigger fish (3 inch long) are all gasping for air alot, T THE SURFACE! THAT'S NEVER HAPPENED BEFORE. aLSO, one has a red mark on his side. I attach a picture. Not sure if it was an isolated incident with him, or if it's an illness that the other 3 fish are also getting. I also changed the filter, one of the little whisper filter for 10gallons, not a fancy filter, just regular filter. I have a 90 gllon tank I am waiting for the wooden stand to be built and then I am changing these fish into that tank. To help with ammonia issues. Thanks, I typed this very fast because I'm very worried. Starting a 30% water change literally in 5 seconds.

  2. Jim

    JimWell Known MemberMember

    As you surmised, some is wrong with the water. Your profile states that you do not know about the nitrogen cycle. UH OH!!! Search on this form. There are many threads on it. Did you dechlorinate the water? Those are 2 biggies!!
  3. endlercollector

    endlercollectorFishlore VIPMember

    Dose immediately with Amquel Plus (1 tsp per 10 gal) to save your fish now while you study up on the problem and figure out long-term solutions.

  4. OP

    grelsner96New MemberMember

    Thank you for the info. I use prime something, the brand is prime. I am supposed to add a little bit per 5 gallons, but I only change with 3 gallons so i use like a small amount. It's supposed to work for nitrates he said. Do u think the red mark is from an illness, or where he may have scratched the rock that's in the tank??
  5. hollie1505

    hollie1505Well Known MemberMember

    Hello :) Welcome to Fishlore!

    Firstly, the tank is too small for 4 goldies, they are huge waste producers and you need to be performing huge water changes daily. Maybe multiple times a day. In a 10 Gallon I would be changing AT LEAST 8 Gallons a day with 3 Goldies in. I would also dose for 10 gallons if I removed 8, 5 if I removed 3 etc.

    The Goldie in the picture looks like a common Goldie which aren't suited to aquariums as they require so much room I'm afraid. I know you are upgrading but 90G isn't big enough for multiple commons. What types of goldie are the others? Do they have one tail and thin long bodies like commons and comets or do they have two tails and short fat bodies like fancies?

    You should get your fish into a QT tank. If you don't have one a large tub and a filter will do with regular water changes. Is the fish new? Is the mark new? It could be illness or injury, I would suggest illness at this point.

    You need to read the nitrogen cycle. Did you move the old media from the filter? If you just put the new filter on, you will have lost your cycle so water changes are even more
  6. OP

    grelsner96New MemberMember

    I seem to be getting conflicting reports so I am unsure of which to follow. I was told to change no more than 50% of the water so I can keep the good nutrients in. 90 gallons I was told an inch:gallon ratio is okay so they should have plenty of room, I was told but now if you say is correct then I don't know what I can put in the new tank. My fiance's dad has a 55 gallon it looks like, maybe 75 and he has about the same as what I have. Meaning its much too much for the 10 gallons, but I am planning to do the switch to the 90 in the next few days, so that;s only temporary.
    So when I change the filter media, I have to restart the itrogen cycle? It tells me to change the filter about 1x/month, so that sounds like I would need to restart the nitrogen cycle monthly? Is that correct?
  7. millca

    millcaValued MemberMember

    The one inch per gallon advice is a general guideline that works okay with some fish but there are exceptions. Common or comet goldfish are one of those exceptions as they get well over 12" and are HUGE waste producers. They are more suitable in a pond setting. Keeping them in an aquarium will stunt their growth and they will have a much shorter life span because their organs can't develop fully either. Unfortunately, most of us grew up with at least one common goldfish that we or someone we knew who kept them in an unfiltered, extremely small round tank. The average person has no idea how big these fish are designed to become NOR how long they can thrive if kept in a suitable living environment (aka, pond) -- some live over 20 years. They are extremely cheap in pet stores and therefore the myth of how to keep them continues.

    Please take some time to read through the nitrogen cycle sticky in the beginner's forum area of this site. Also, the benefial bacteria does not reside in the water but rather in your filter and other surfaces of your tank (gravel, glass, etc). If you have that many goldfish in a tiny 10G tank, you literally need to be doing 100% water changes 1-2x a day!

    Invest in an API Freshwater Master test kit and start taking water readings for pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.

    I would get that 90G tank setup ASAP with a VERY good quality canister filter that hopefully provides 10x the filtration for that tank if you plan on keeping fancy goldfish in it (your common or comet goldfish should be rehomed into a pond as soon as you can find someone to take them). Then with fancy goldfish (ranchus, orandas, etc) you should aim for 20G for the first one and 10+G for any others. The one inch per gallon "rule" does not pertain to goldfish due to their waste production. They just produce way too much ammonia way too quickly.

    You've come to the right place to learn. Fishlore has a ton of great information so hang out, search for topics and questions you have. Trust me, you'll find a ton of answers and great advice on this forum.

    Please also read up on quaratine tanks. You should always use a QT for any new fish you buy and keep them in there under observation for at least a month. If they haven't exhibited any issues after a month or so, then you can move them into your established tank.

    Most likely your fish are suffering from ammonia burn. Water changes will be the best thing you can do for them. Make sure you keep using Prime and err on the side of slightly overdosing rather than underdosing with Prime at every water change.
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2014
  8. hollie1505

    hollie1505Well Known MemberMember

    +1 to millca! Great advice!

    Performing large water changes won't affect your cycle. Your tank requires huge daily maintenance for the health of your fish.

    Remove uneaten food after 3-5minutes, suck away built up waste and major water changes are needed.x
  9. OP

    grelsner96New MemberMember

    Well I have been reading about the nitrogen. It seems too complex for me. I had it right for a while, and didn't do anything different and it got thrown off. The nitrogen and nitrate is good, in the correct color code. But my test strips don't have ammonia. I know the ammonia has to be high, so I'm not sure if it's worth it to buy new test kit because you guys and everyone tell me that it's gonna be high all the time with this small tank. I now need to know more about switching to my larger tank. One person at the pet store told me to have water in the new tank with no fish for three days, to get some cycle started. But then she said to add water from the small tank. But if I add that water, then I will have to add the fish because I can't take the water out of the small tank and put it into the new tank (plus 80 more gallons of pure water), then my fish won't have any in their 10 gallon tank.
    Also, The canister filter was previously used with salt water. Mine will be fresh. What should I do to remedy this?
  10. aHumanBeing

    aHumanBeingWell Known MemberMember

    Welcome to Fishlore :)

    Sorry about your fish :( I agree that you are going to need to act quick to save your fish. I would follow endlercollector 's advice for the time being but i've got a few basics on fish keeping below.

    Here is the basic version what your tanks readings for an optimal tank:
    Ammonia: 0
    Niti(I)te: 0
    Nitr(A): 0 to < 40
    Ammonia and Nitr(I)te are crucial to measure for, so yes you need to get a reading on Ammonia. If either Ammonia or Nitr(I)te can be seen then the tank is not "cycled." Therefore your fish will be unable to breathe or live in the water.

    Beneficial bacteria live in your filter, not in the water. The water is just a means for the waste from your fish to travel through the bacteria in the filter and to turned into something less harmful. Once your Cycle is finished we are basically saying that your bacteria are now able to handle the nastiness fish create.

    Do not change your filter media every month. If you did that then yes you would have a cycle every month and your fish will suffer the hardships of it. What they really should say is "If you have dual filters then change one filter, per month...never both." Really you don't have to change the filters at all unless they are Carbon filters and if you are only running carbon then you should also have another media in the canister. Such as a floss pad or other types of media and alternate what you change.
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2014

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