Help With Algae In Betta Tank

HI so I have 1 male betta in a 10 gallon tank. The tank has recently gotten algae, probably because I always open all my windows, and I need to know which algae eaters to buy. I’m not sure which is the best. I’n thinking maybe a pleco or a few neon tetras would be fine. I would prefer an algae eating fish who eats mostly algae. I also wanted to ask if there are any low light plants I could buy (I use 2 cheap LED lights in my tank) to help with the algae. If you can help me I’d really appreciate it! Thank you!

 

There are no pleco that fit your tank size. Neons need a 20 and don't eat algae.
Any fish that eats algae poops algae fertilizer.
How about a few snails?

low light plants - Anubias, annacaris, marimo moss balls, java fern, hornwort.
Sorry I can't spell today.

If you add hornwort, do not let it get out of control and block off easy access to the water surface! Bettas must get to the surface to breath!

 

That tank is definitely too small for a pleco.

This happens often, but bettas should not be with neon tetras because they have temperature incompatibilities. Neons should be kept around the mid 70s while bettas like it up to the early 80s.

Each individual betta has a different temperament and may or may not tolerate tankmates.

 

What about getting nerite snail(s) or amano shrimp for the algae?
a pleco would quickly outgrow your tank and neon tetras do not eat algae, nor are they good tank mates for a betta.

 

(I forgot to mention I'm a beginner and got my betta about 4 months ago so I'm still figuring out a few things). I didn't know about the pleco or neon tetras. I think the website I found didn't tell me about tank requirements, and I guess I forgot to look for them. I am all right with algae eaters eating the algae then creating more as long as they can keep it under control. The algae in my tank is spreading very fast and I don't want it all over the tank (unless there is algae eater there to eat it). I think snails might be my best option, so I'll keep looking into them. I will also definitely look into the low light plants you suggested! Thank you!

 

What does the algae look like out of interest?

 

What does the algae look like out of interest?

I am assuming it's algae, but if it is not could someone tell me what it is? It is on some of the gravel as well but when I did a water change yesterday most of the rocks flipped over. This picture is of the plastic rocks in my tank.

 

One of the biggest misconceptions in freshwater fish keeping is that you can buy a fish that will keep the tank clean. This is a myth. 100% myth. Actually, as Noroomforshoe pointed out, algae eaters will actually cause more algae because they create more waste by-products in the water, not to mention the fact that most 'algae eaters' that're sold as 'tank cleaners' grow out of any algae eating habits, and become omnivorous in their older age (why is my pleco gotten lazy? cuz its not actually an algae eater, that's why) The fish that are true algae eaters? Otocinclus, siamese algae eaters (siamensis, NOT flying fox), amano shrimp, and nerite snails, everything else is virtually a gimmick. Algae, at its basic, regular occurring form, will not harm fish, and is actually a bit good for the aquarium because it 'eats' some of the excess waste that the fish produce (which is why it's in the aquarium to begin with, and brings me to my next point).

Instead of trying to buy an algae eater to remedy the symptoms of algae, take a look at the cause. Algae is caused by either 1.) too much light entering the aquarium. or 2.) an excess in nitrates or phosphates in the aquarium. So, you have algae, either because a water change is due and your nitrates or phosphates are higher than normal or average. OR the open window is allowing UVB sun rays to shine directly into the aquarium glass, allowing a heightened algae growth.

Either 1.) block the tank with a sheet or blanket when you open the windows, or leave the tank light off for longer periods of time. and 2.) test your aquarium water for nitrate and phosphate, if these things come back higher than 20ppm or 5ppm respectively, do water changes until the nitrates are reading less than 10ppm, and phosphate reads close to 3-4ppm.

Nitrate is the end product of the nitrite cycle, and will always be present in the aquarium its just important to keep it lower than 20ppm to avoid algae break outs. Phosphate is added to the aquarium usually through fish food (this is why over-feeding can cause algae).

Edit: Me personally, if my tank started growing algae on a rock like that, the color of it. I think it's pretty, it almost mimics moss in it's color...I'd personally leave it alone. The only time I mess with my tanks over algae is when Its covering the glass OR its BlackBeardAlgae or some other nuisance algae that is gross to look at. and those types of algae are almost always in indicator that something isn't right with the water quality. (in my case, my phosphates were through the roof).

 

The best algae remover is always you I have my Betta in a similar sized tank it also gets a bit too much sun so I just use an old (sanitized) toothbrush to remove what grows on the glass. I also have some live plants that help. Anubias is an easy low light plant but it is slow growing therefore needs less nutrients. If you like floating plants they do a fantastic job!

 

One of the biggest misconceptions in freshwater fish keeping is that you can buy a fish that will keep the tank clean. This is a myth. 100% myth. Actually, as Noroomforshoe pointed out, algae eaters will actually cause more algae because they create more waste by-products in the water, not to mention the fact that most 'algae eaters' that're sold as 'tank cleaners' grow out of any algae eating habits, and become omnivorous in their older age (why is my pleco gotten lazy? cuz its not actually an algae eater, that's why) The fish that are true algae eaters? Otocinclus, siamese algae eaters (siamensis, NOT flying fox), amano shrimp, and nerite snails, everything else is virtually a gimmick. Algae, at its basic, regular occurring form, will not harm fish, and is actually a bit good for the aquarium because it 'eats' some of the excess waste that the fish produce (which is why it's in the aquarium to begin with, and brings me to my next point).

Instead of trying to buy an algae eater to remedy the symptoms of algae, take a look at the cause. Algae is caused by either 1.) too much light entering the aquarium. or 2.) an excess in nitrates or phosphates in the aquarium. So, you have algae, either because a water change is due and your nitrates or phosphates are higher than normal or average. OR the open window is allowing UVB sun rays to shine directly into the aquarium glass, allowing a heightened algae growth.

Either 1.) block the tank with a sheet or blanket when you open the windows, or leave the tank light off for longer periods of time. and 2.) test your aquarium water for nitrate and phosphate, if these things come back higher than 20ppm or 5ppm respectively, do water changes until the nitrates are reading less than 10ppm, and phosphate reads close to 3-4ppm.

Nitrate is the end product of the nitrite cycle, and will always be present in the aquarium its just important to keep it lower than 20ppm to avoid algae break outs. Phosphate is added to the aquarium usually through fish food (this is why over-feeding can cause algae).

Edit: Me personally, if my tank started growing algae on a rock like that, the color of it. I think it's pretty, it almost mimics moss in it's color...I'd personally leave it alone. The only time I mess with my tanks over algae is when Its covering the glass OR its BlackBeardAlgae or some other nuisance algae that is gross to look at. and those types of algae are almost always in indicator that something isn't right with the water quality. (in my case, my phosphates were through the roof).

Thank you! That cleared up a lot of things for me. I will make sure to test the water as soon as I can. I guess I don't mind the algae that much as it does look like moss...anyway, thank you again for all the great advice!

The best algae remover is always you I have my Betta in a similar sized tank it also gets a bit too much sun so I just use an old (sanitized) toothbrush to remove what grows on the glass. I also have some live plants that help. Anubias is an easy low light plant but it is slow growing therefore needs less nutrients. If you like floating plants they do a fantastic job!

Yeah, I might get a toothbrush to clean any algae that grows on parts of my tank I don't want it on (like the thermometer). Anubias seems great for me as they seem fairly easy to take care of! Thanks!

 

Yeah, I might get a toothbrush to clean any algae that grows on parts of my tank I don't want it on (like the thermometer). Anubias seems great for me as they seem fairly easy to take care of! Thanks!

The downside of anubias is slower growing plants like that don't absorb as many nitrates that FishGirl38 was telling you about. They help but it won't be a drastic difference like faster growing plants would.

 

The downside of anubias is slower growing plants like that don't absorb as many nitrates that FishGirl38 was telling you about. They help but it won't be a drastic difference like faster growing plants would.

Oh, ok thanks for the info!

I just checked my tank parameters and everything looks great! The algae must've just been caused by the sunlight.

 

That tank is definitely too small for a pleco.

This happens often, but bettas should not be with neon tetras because they have temperature incompatibilities. Neons should be kept around the mid 70s while bettas like it up to the early 80s.

Each individual betta has a different temperament and may or may not tolerate tankmates.

Bettas should really not be kept in the 80s. And my neons have been perfectly happy at 80-81. But a good temperature for both of them is 78 and they will thrive.
But yeah, it does depend on the personality.

 

Bettas should really not be kept in the 80s. And my neons have been perfectly happy at 80-81. But a good temperature for both of them is 78 and they will thrive.
But yeah, it does depend on the personality.

There's a very wide temperature range that has been given to neon tetras from the mid 60s to the early 80s. Instead of pushing the boundaries of what they can bear, choose the average of it where they're comfortable.

Bettas are tropical fish from warm climates where the temperature is pretty constant and so they like it up to the early 80s.

 

There's a very wide temperature range that has been given to neon tetras from the mid 60s to the early 80s. Instead of pushing the boundaries of what they can bear, choose the average of it where they're comfortable.

Bettas are tropical fish from warm climates where the temperature is pretty constant and so they like it up to the early 80s.

For my betta, the heater is set automatically to about 78-80 degrees.

 

There's a very wide temperature range that has been given to neon tetras from the mid 60s to the early 80s. Instead of pushing the boundaries of what they can bear, choose the average of it where they're comfortable.

Bettas are tropical fish from warm climates where the temperature is pretty constant and so they like it up to the early 80s.

I have always heard that cardinal tetras do better in the higher temps than the neons.

 

For my betta, the heater is set automatically to about 78-80 degrees.

That's fine.

I have always heard that cardinal tetras do better in the higher temps than the neons.

Yes they're a better substitute instead.

 

Would Celestial pearl danios or Guppies be fine for my tank? I know they are not mainly algae eaters, but they still help keep algae under control. My betta is very calm and rarely ever flares (he has done it maybe 2 or 3 times), so it might work out? The websites I found for the Celestial pearl danios and Guppies said they would be fine in a 10 gallon.

 

It looks like Cyano bacteria instead of algae

 

It looks like Cyano bacteria instead of algae[/QUOT

Isn't cyanobacteria also known as blue green algae (even though it is not actually algae)? What I have looks a lot more like green algae than blue green algae up close.

 

My go to aquarium plants are anubias, java fern, and aponogeton. (apons. are big for 10 gallon though)
Nitrate is the more important one to keep in check, and if you know you don't overfeed, then phosphate probably isn't the issue either.

If you absolutely still want an algae eater, choose nerite snails or amano shrimp (credit to fjh for initial recommendation above).

Disclaimers/other info:

• Nerite snails can have a taste for plants if there isn't enough algae around (my java ferns look like lace plants because of this) Though they probably wouldn't nibble on anubias, the leaves are much thicker.
• Amano shrimp are best for cleaning hair algae, or stringy green algae. (they won't do much for brown diatom algae, green spot algae, or other flatter types-this is where the snails come in)
• I have 2 nerite snails and 2 amano shrimp in each side of a divided 10G with 2 betta. my one betta doesn't mind his tank mates while the other, will chase and nip at the amanos whenever he sees them.
• The betta who doesn't mind his tank mates has undergone serious fin decay and color change since my purchasing him. I believe this is due stress caused by his tank mates as well as the more dominant betta just next door.

My point with telling you all this, algae eaters can be beneficial, but there are things to consider, especially when adding them in with a betta.

I've dealt with cyanobacteria too, mine had a very plant-like, almost swampy smell that was noticeable even with carbon. Taking a closer look, is their algae laying ontop of the gravel? almost blanketing it? I would remove that, especially if it's not anchored to anything (and is basically similar to mulm). At first I though these were small carpeting plants though.

As for the CPD's or guppies, I'm starting to think you really want more life in your tank. Unfortunately, this is a trial and error process and although your betta might seem like a chill fish now, the addition of new tank mates always being present in his line of sight may be stressful for him. Betta are, afterall, territorial fish. The only way to know for sure if it will work or not is to try it. Though the best recommended options for betta are to keep them as sole tank inhabitants with a few passive additions (like snails or large shrimp that the betta won't feel threatened by).

 

My go to aquarium plants are anubias, java fern, and aponogeton. (apons. are big for 10 gallon though)
Nitrate is the more important one to keep in check, and if you know you don't overfeed, then phosphate probably isn't the issue either.

If you absolutely still want an algae eater, choose nerite snails or amano shrimp (credit to fjh for initial recommendation above).

Disclaimers/other info:

• Nerite snails can have a taste for plants if there isn't enough algae around (my java ferns look like lace plants because of this) Though they probably wouldn't nibble on anubias, the leaves are much thicker.
• Amano shrimp are best for cleaning hair algae, or stringy green algae. (they won't do much for brown diatom algae, green spot algae, or other flatter types-this is where the snails come in)
• I have 2 nerite snails and 2 amano shrimp in each side of a divided 10G with 2 betta. my one betta doesn't mind his tank mates while the other, will chase and nip at the amanos whenever he sees them.
• The betta who doesn't mind his tank mates has undergone serious fin decay and color change since my purchasing him. I believe this is due stress caused by his tank mates as well as the more dominant betta just next door.

My point with telling you all this, algae eaters can be beneficial, but there are things to consider, especially when adding them in with a betta.

I've dealt with cyanobacteria too, mine had a very plant-like, almost swampy smell that was noticeable even with carbon. Taking a closer look, is their algae laying ontop of the gravel? almost blanketing it? I would remove that, especially if it's not anchored to anything (and is basically similar to mulm). At first I though these were small carpeting plants though.

As for the CPD's or guppies, I'm starting to think you really want more life in your tank. Unfortunately, this is a trial and error process and although your betta might seem like a chill fish now, the addition of new tank mates always being present in his line of sight may be stressful for him. Betta are, afterall, territorial fish. The only way to know for sure if it will work or not is to try it. Though the best recommended options for betta are to keep them as sole tank inhabitants with a few passive additions (like snails or large shrimp that the betta won't feel threatened by).

I looked into Anubias and Java fern. I think Java fern would be the best plant I could put into my tank. I also looked into Nerite snails. Two of those could definitely keep my algae under control, even if they eat java fern. There is algae on some of the gravel, but I don't think that it is there the way you are describing it. Thanks for the advice!

 

So, I have finally decided on getting 1-2 Gold Inca snails/mystery snails and some java fern plants! I will no longer be replying to any other replies.

 

There's a very wide temperature range that has been given to neon tetras from the mid 60s to the early 80s. Instead of pushing the boundaries of what they can bear, choose the average of it where they're comfortable.

Bettas are tropical fish from warm climates where the temperature is pretty constant and so they like it up to the early 80s.

Yes, I've only had my neons at 80-81 a couple of times. I've had some trouble getting my tank down to 78 where I want it to be.
I've never heard that bettas *should* be kept in the upper 80s. 78 is in the middle of their range though.