Help Reading Master Kit Results.

Discussion in 'Freshwater Beginners' started by MossBall, Apr 18, 2017.

  1. MossBall

    MossBall Valued Member Member

    IMG_2259.JPG So I got off work early tonight and ran and got a master kit since my strips seemed worthless. I will post my results tonight as I go. First thing I did was PH and the colors dont seem to exist on the sheet. Why am I not surprised lol.
    Bright blue tube on the left is the regular PH test. The tube on the right is the high PH test. Obviously my PH is on the high side. But I have no idea where rose pink fits on the color chart. Thoughts?

    IMG_2261.JPG
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 19, 2017
  2. RedLoredAmazon

    RedLoredAmazon Well Known Member Member

    Your pH looks just like mine! I read it as 8.2 :)
     
  3. el337

    el337 Fishlore Legend Member

    I'd say 8.2 as well.
     




  4. OP
    OP
    MossBall

    MossBall Valued Member Member

    Awesome guys! Thank you! That is perfect for shrimp and crayfish right? Will guppies adjust to that high of PH if I take a good 2 hour to acclimate.
    I am testing NH now. I can already tell the strips are/were worthless. Just wait and see this pic lol!

    IMG_2263.JPG This one looks easy... .50 correct? And btw my strips still say 0. I took a reading 20 mins ago before I started the Master Kit. So I will be throwing those strips away now lol.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 19, 2017
  5. RedLoredAmazon

    RedLoredAmazon Well Known Member Member

    Yep! .5 so not cycled yet.

    I believe...but don't quote me...that it's not so much pH that is important to shrimp and crayfish but gh and kh. I have 5 amano shrimp living in my 8.2 ph tank, but I have no idea about my gh and kh. My water is really hard, but all the local shops have shrimp thriving in their tanks so I assumed that I could keep shrimp. So far so good for me...
     
  6. el337

    el337 Fishlore Legend Member

    Your pH is fine for most fish unless you are keeping wild caught or are trying to breed. My own pH is at 8.0 and my fish are all fine with it.

    I agree the ammonia is at .50. How are you cycling the tank?
     
  7. OP
    OP
    MossBall

    MossBall Valued Member Member

    Lol about cycling... lol. I will get into that after I post the NO results lol... spoiler alert, if you see a product on the shelf that looks like the label was printed on a computer printer from 1994 and you can't google the product name and it is the only one left on the shelf but the guy working "strongly recomends it" lol stay away!! Lol. Lesson learned.

    IMG_2264.JPG Here is the Nitrite reading. Looks pretty clear it is 0 to me. Most would think it isnt cycled... just wait lol...
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 19, 2017
  8. CarrieFisher

    CarrieFisher Well Known Member Member

    In this one it looks like 8.2 to me.
    In that first one, your guess is as good as mine!! Lol
     
  9. OP
    OP
    MossBall

    MossBall Valued Member Member

    IMG_2265.JPG Here is where things get interesting. This test clearly showsno Nitrate. Thus, the tank is not cycled at all. And that stuff I was told would cycle the tank has done nothing at all the past 8 day. Awesome. Oh and the best part, the strips show a very clear 20ppm reading. So they are obviously wrong. Good thing I bought this kit tonight the strips are worthless.(at least the batch I got were.) I made sure to pick up some Quick Start while I was out tonight so that should actually work.

    I had the flash on in the first one. The second was without flash. I learned not to use the flash for these. That's why they looked different.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 19, 2017
  10. CarrieFisher

    CarrieFisher Well Known Member Member

    Man, my cycle was sooooo stressful! Lol
    I used flash, sunlight, white backgrounds, tubes on a white paper towel with a white backdrop, miners hat, hanging upside down at dawn.... lol
    I just wanted to see some darn orange!!!
    Good luck, buddy!! :)
    I think its good news that your have higher pH than lower pH.
    I've learned that low pH can stall your cycle, but I'm not sure about higher.
     
  11. Yoda

    Yoda Valued Member Member

    I would say pH is 8.3 and Amm. Is .75ppm.
    What conditioner do you use? I found out the Kordon NovAqua+ I was using was buffering my pH.
    Could help by lowering your pH a bit. Or you could mix in some RO water from Glacier water vending machines. That's what I've been doing.

    BTW, I kept on splashing in bottled bacteria when I would get ammonia or nitrite spikes and I cycled my 2 tanks in 18 and 9 days.
     
  12. a

    antoine smith New Member Member

    I keep guppies at an 8 ph and they are very healthy. You should have no problems.
     
  13. OP
    OP
    MossBall

    MossBall Valued Member Member

    @CarrieFisher I didn't pick up in the joke until Minor's Hat. I almost droped my phone I was laughing so hard! Haha! Yea I shook that test tube like the flash would. Still bright yellow. Oh well, quick start should fix that. But wow that was funny!!
    @Yoda Those were actually the exact numbers I wrote down. Great minds... see we did it again. I have a trial size of both Jungle start right and Tetra aqua safe. As far as what I will use long term I have no idea yet. Oh and stress coat+ too if that counts.
     
  14. Briggs

    Briggs Well Known Member Member

    One trick I will pass along that's helped me read that *&$(% color chart: the shade and tint is almost always going to be off between the chart and the water. (Shades are a color mixed with black, tints with white. Color theory 101 finally coming in handy in real life!) Try to narrow it down by the amount of different colors in it. So with the ammonia, the more blue mixed into the original yellow, the more ammonia. It might still be a very light green, but that's the tint, not the color. Look at it like it's paint you're mixing together, and mentally set aside the black and white tubes.

    It's a lot less frustrating for me to look at it from that angle, but it might not work as well if you've never had to do color mixing before?
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2017
  15. OP
    OP
    MossBall

    MossBall Valued Member Member

    @el337 I am cycling using beta fish food I got free in a trial packet with the kit. Originally I was worried I was puting too much in, but with only a .75 ammonia reading I guess I wasnt. It has been 8 straight days if 5-8 flakes twice a day. I am not exactly sure what to do now. Do I continue this way another week or do I let the Quick Start do it's thing and not feed again until 0-0-x
     
  16. AngelTheGypsy

    AngelTheGypsy Fishlore VIP Member

    If you're reading .75 ammonia you can start cycling with that. I started with the .5 in my tap. You just have to wait for the bacteria to grow. I used stability, Dr Tims One & Only, and TSS. Stability seems to do well for the ammonia eaters, but the others did better jumpstart get the nitrite eaters. I don't know if I would keep adding food or not. I didn't have any luck going that route. Just keep testing the ammonia. When it starts dropping test the nitrite (save your arm and nitrate test kit. You don't need to test for these until the nitrite drops, and then not again until you have fish.)

    When both ammonia and nitrite are below .25, add the same amount of fish food you already added (this is where the fish food gets tricky. It has to decay a little before it turns into ammonia, plus do you know how much you have added?)

    It will be much more precise with liquid ammonia if you can find it. I finally found it at tractor supply. Just look for a clear ammonia with no scents, surfactants or detergents. If it foams when you shake the bottle that won't work. Dr Tims Ammonium Chloride works too.
     
  17. el337

    el337 Fishlore Legend Member

    Can you also test everything out of your tap so you know your baseline readings?

    Fish food is ok to use but it's harder to control the amount you want in order to build enough of a bacteria colony without overwhelming it. It also takes a while to break down. I would look for pure ammonia as mentioned since it's easier to dose and control. You can find it at Ace Hardware if you're in the U.S. If you do choose to go with pure ammonia, we can help guide you.

    Also, Quick Start isn't very effective either as it doesn't contain true nitrifyers. I would pick up a bottle of TSS+ or Seachem Stability instead.

    Seachem Prime is also a better water conditioner, IMO. More concentrated and also detoxifies ammonia, nitrite and nitrate along with removing chlorine and chloramines.

    And what tank size is this btw?
     
  18. OP
    OP
    MossBall

    MossBall Valued Member Member

    @el337 I actually got confused at the store. I thought Quick Start WAS Safe Start. So I guess it is back to the store tonight for Safe Start. At this rate I am going to own every product on the
    shelf at my store. I have been in there 3 dozen times in like 9 days now. Haha!
     
  19. el337

    el337 Fishlore Legend Member

    Haha I know the feeling. Though it was Amazon that was my best friend bringing me packages of fish stuff every week when I started out.
     
  20. OP
    OP
    MossBall

    MossBall Valued Member Member

    So I have an interesting situation for all you experienced cyclers... it has been 16 hours since I poured the whole bottle of tss+ into my 10g. Last night before I did I had a NH of exactly 1. Today however I have a reading of something just under .5 which I am calling .4. However and this is where things get confusing for me... my Nitrite is still 0 or even less than if that is possable lol. I double checked to make sure I used the correct amount of drops and the correct amount of wait time.
    Is it worth all that shaking to check Nitrate? Is it possable that in 16 hours it has completly converted some NH to NO3? If so, I would still think there would be sesidual NO2 also but there isnt. It seems the tss+ just lowered my NH reading without converting it to anything...?
     




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