Help Help me! My 10 gallon has been infected with ich!

J_Aquatics

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I have a betta and 4 panda corydoras in a 10 gallon tank . I recently noticed ich and wondered what would be the most appropriate way to treat it. I can’t do salt because of the pandas so I was thinking of raising temp to 86 and then dosing some sort of meds . Please help me out with recommended meds or other procedures.
 

Crispii

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Raise the temperature to about 85° F and do daily water changes. Don't forget to vacuum the substrate and there's no need for medications.
 
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Crispii said:
Raise the temperature to about 85° F and do daily water changes. Don't forget to vacuum the substrate and there's no need for medications.
Ok I'll try this, has this worked for you before ? Even with corydoras ?
 

Crispii

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J_Aquatics said:
Ok I'll try this, has this worked for you before ? Even with corydoras ?
It works, but never had issues with ich on Corydoras before.
 
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Crispii said:
It works, but never had issues with ich on Corydoras before.
I haven’t seen the ich in the corys but my betta has quite a few . I was just worried about the corys and the heat. Thanks tho
 

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Can confirm what CrispiI said. Raise the temp to 85-86f and do daily substrate vacs. Keep this up till all white spots on the fish are gone, and then continue this for another week or so. I did this about a month ago with no issues. I keep loaches and glotetras and had no loses. Keep in mind tho the higher the temp, the less oxygen in the water. An air stone will help with this
 
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TFrost said:
Can confirm what CrispiI said. Raise the temp to 85-86f and do daily substrate vacs. Keep this up till all white spots on the fish are gone, and then continue this for another week or so. I did this about a month ago with no issues. I keep loaches and glotetras and had no loses. Keep in mind tho the higher the temp, the less oxygen in the water. An air stone will help with this
Ok, thank you!

I just want to make sure that this is ich on my betta. You might not be able to see it too well but there are about 10 noticeable white little crystals on the bettas fins. This is ich right? If so, how should I treat it? I’m currently doing water changes and have my temp at 86. Keep in mind not too many meds will work as I have corydoras as well .
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Ps. The corys and betta have been scratching themselves on rocks and plants. But both still don’t have a problem eating
 

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I associate cories scratching with letting my nitrates go bad. Are they happy and swimming about or sullenly sitting on the bottom of the tank?

Those spots might be light ich.
 
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CHJ said:
I associate cories scratching with letting my nitrates go bad. Are they happy and swimming about or sullenly sitting on the bottom of the tank?

Those spots might be light ich.
They’re still scavenging and eating all around the tank. If it is ich, I just noticed it yesterday and it hasn’t really grown much since yesterday.
 

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It looks like ich to me. Your 86 temp should treat it over a course of 2 weeks
 
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Sunflower said:
It looks like ich to me. Your 86 temp should treat it over a course of 2 weeks
Do you think my corydoras could handle that? I have kordon rid ich plus , should I do half a dose to speed up the process ?
 

GuppyDazzle

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I must respectfully disagree with one of the prior statements, referring to "light ich." There is no such thing. Once you see ich, it has been present for some time. The white spots are the fish's body finally forming a cyst to encase the parasite. There are zillions of parasites in the water column and on the fish that you can't see, especially in the gills. Don't fall victI'm to a false sense of security if it hasn't seemed to spread since yesterday. Whether any or all of your fish survive depends on how quickly and effectively you start treatment.

There are three common methods to treat ich, and they are all effective. Which method you use depends on your specific situation and your fish. The methods are the temperature method (which you're using), the salt method, and medication. Study the ich life cycle and you'll see why combining methods won't "speed up" the process. Pick a method and stick to it. If you combine methods you'll simply stress the fish out even more, with zero added effectiveness. Keep treating for a while after the white spots disappear. The visible white spots are just one small phase of the life cycle.
 

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Looks like Ich to me too. And your Corys probably can't (depending on the type). Most Corys aren't great tank mates for Bettas as they require different temps (Bettas want it warm, most Corys want it cool).

If you treat it with heat you'll want to get the temp to 86, LEAVE IT for 2 weeks REGARDLESS of the Ich appearing to be gone or not. Add some air stones. Do 50% water changes daily with good vacuuming. If you have decorations remove them, clean them and keep them out for the 2 weeks to make cleaning easier.

There are meds that work too. Do some research (I haven't dealt with Ich in 25+ years so I don't know them). Good luck!
 
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Which method has worked best for you? I’m thinking I’ll go with temperature since it’d most likely be less stressful on the corys than the meds. At what temp does ich start dying off?

DuaneV said:
Looks like Ich to me too. And your Corys probably can't (depending on the type). Most Corys aren't great tank mates for Bettas as they require different temps (Bettas want it warm, most Corys want it cool).

If you treat it with heat you'll want to get the temp to 86, LEAVE IT for 2 weeks REGARDLESS of the Ich appearing to be gone or not. Add some air stones. Do 50% water changes daily with good vacuuming. If you have decorations remove them, clean them and keep them out for the 2 weeks to make cleaning easier.

There are meds that work too. Do some research (I haven't dealt with Ich in 25+ years so I don't know them). Good luck!
Sounds like I’m doing temperature then , would live plants count as decorations? I’m sure they wouldn’t survive out of water for 2 weeks
 

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J_Aquatics said:
Which method has worked best for you? I’m thinking I’ll go with temperature since it’d most likely be less stressful on the corys than the meds. At what temp does ich start dying off?
Temperature worked for me. I heated the tank to 86/87, left it until there were no visible signs of ich (~1 week), then left it another week to catch any ich that wasn't immediately visible. So it was about 2 weeks total at 86/87 for me, but as I said, It's until there's no visible ich, then another week.

And the temperature doesn't cause the ich to "die off", rather it stops it from reproducing, which breaks the life cycle (Which is also sped up by the heat). The temperature should be 86/87 for this. Like was mentioned before, you will benefit by studying the life cycle of ich and understanding how the treatment will work.
Also note that when you heat water, more oxygen will escape it, so in order for your tank to remain properly oxygenated (Particularly for your corys) you will want to add in an air stone.
 
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I have a 10 gal with 1 betta and 4 corydora cats. Should I , option one. Raise temp in tank to 86 and do daily water changes and sand vacs for 2-3 weeks. Or option 2, remove the 5 fish from tank and place them into a separate tub with a much more comfortable temperature and a sponge filter , and while treating them in a tub with meds, blast the tank up to 93 degrees and try to kill off the ich for about a week or two, since the cycle only takes about 4 days with higher temps. Please let me know what would be the better option , thanks
 

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Several threads have been merged, members can help you better if all the information is in one place,
please only create one thread per topic.
 

Islandvic

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Here is a video that explains the Ich lifecycle.


Water changes and a vac of the substrate is crucial for removing free floating ich trophonts and tomites.

I've used Kordon meds before with fish considered "sensitive" to meds, such as plecos, corydoras and khulI loaches. Kordon's meds are supposed to be not as "harsh" compared to other brands.

On separate occasions, I've used Kordon Ich Attack and Rid Ich Plus dosing 2x a day at regular strength (I used a syringe for accurate measurement) along with frequent and large water changes, plus bumped the temp up to 84°f - 86°f.

Ich was successfully tested both times, but your results may be different.

Even if you don't use meds, WC's +heat is s must.
 
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Islandvic said:
Here is a video that explains the Ich lifecycle.
Water changes and a vac of the substrate is crucial for removing free floating ich trophonts and tomites.

I've used Kordon meds before with fish considered "sensitive" to meds, such as plecos, corydoras and khulI loaches. Kordon's meds are supposed to be not as "harsh" compared to other brands.

On separate occasions, I've used Kordon Ich Attack and Rid Ich Plus dosing 2x a day at regular strength (I used a syringe for accurate measurement) along with frequent and large water changes, plus bumped the temp up to 84°f - 86°f.

Ich was successfully tested both times, but your results may be different.

Even if you don't use meds, WC's +heat is s must.
So I can do both heat and meds even with corys as long as I add an additional air stone?
 

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I can say that if meds are used, don't dilute to half strength. Might as well not use them, unless using the recommended dose.

As for your corydoras, I can't guarantee the Kordon meds won't be harmful. They just were not in my experience.

I would suggest to use caution if you chose to use meds. Keep up with frequent and large temp matched water changes. Consider starting w/ 1x dose a day, keeping a watchful eye on how they are doing.

I've never kept betas or panda corys, mine were peppered corys.
 

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