HELP! Ich concerns and treatment

Discussion in 'Freshwater Fish Disease' started by ALBTUFF, Jan 6, 2013.

  1. ALBTUFFNew MemberMember

    Hey all, With the lack of help I've been getting in the past week on other forums I have decided to come and ask here on fishlore. I've read alot of threads and there seems to be alot of people on fishlore with helpful advice.

    I've got ich. First time having it. About aweek ago I noticed my fish darting around, flashing, clamped finns, scratching on decorations and the substrate. I googled my symptoms and figured I had ich but no visible white spots to be seen. The next day white spots showed up on a few fish. I added an air stone and started slowly raising the temp to 86f/30c over a period of 2 days. I then removed the carbon from my filters and added API super ich cure at a half dose as recommened by instruction for clown loaches. The next day my clowns are covered in white spots head to tail. I read that when treatment starts ich will get bad before it gets better, alright I'll just go with it. Day 2 of med all fish showing signs of improvements except clowns. After 48 hours dose again, this time a little higher 60% rather than half dose. Day 3 Excellent improvement on fish they are swimming around and chasing each other like they used to. But clowns still showing white spots and lack of movement, they swim against the glass and stay in one spot head up, tail down and belly on the glass. Today is day 4 and the clowns still show white spots. In 7-8 hours it will be time to do a 25% w/c and put back in new carbon. My plan was also to keep the heat up for another week just to make sure.

    Now heres my question:

    With my clowns still showing signs of ich should I replace the carbon and do a w/c or should I just do another dose of super ich cure? I could even do a w/c, still leave the carbon out and than do another dose? I don't want to dope my fish up on to many meds but at the same time I don't want to have the tank get reinfected by the clowns who are still showing signs of ich.

    Thanx in advance for any advice given. It will be much appreciated.

    ALBTUFF
     
  2. AnthonyC4CWell Known MemberMember





  3. Faber1790Valued MemberMember

    It is generally not recommended to mix heat and chemical treatments of fish. I can't really advice you about what to do with your loaches, as I have never kept them and have heard they are sensitive. I will however tell you I found the API Super Ich Cure at half dose to do nothing. I would advise you to read the link above and wait for somebody with more experience to come along to about your loaches.
     




  4. ALBTUFFNew MemberMember

    Alright thanx. I have read the natural cure many times before. I went with the meds after looking at my all my options. On the bootle of API super ich cure it says you can increase temp to 86f if desired to speed up life cycle of ich. Thanx for the replies.
     




  5. JayseeFishlore LegendMember

    Once the med treatment is done, I would put the carbon back in to remove it, and maintain the heat. I would kick up the temp to 89 and leave it there for the next 10 days.
     
  6. ALBTUFFNew MemberMember

    Water changes done and carbon back in heat is at 88 right now. Hurry up and wait now.
     
  7. MrsMorocco2010Valued MemberMember

    I'm on day 4 of my natural curing of ick. The heat has been up, but so far 2/3 loaches have broken out with white spots. I'm working on cleaning the gravel every other day and doing a water change. So far the water as been clearer and cleaner. I had one fish that was not doing well at all so I moved it to a quarantine tank to use copper. Never again will I put a new fish into my main tank without quarantining it!!!!!
     
  8. steve_58Valued MemberMember

    I some how got a case of ick in my 90 gallon tank which has 3 clown loaches,tiger barbs,severuns,bn plecos,angels and rainbows. I tried ick out for sensitive fish.That did'nt work.i then raised temp from 78 to 85 and added aquarium salt at the rate of 1 tbs to 10 gallon of water and changed 25% of water every other day. After a week it seemed to be clearing up and was almost completely gone.then it seemed to coming back on the loaches and severums.I then added salt again at the rate of 1 tbs to 10 gallon and added a powerhead to increase circulation in tank. after 3 days i started changing 25% of water everyother day and vacumed gravel every other water change. After a week it was no longer visible and i kept changing 25% of water every 3 days along with gravel vacuming for a week.I figured i had it licked so i kept the water temp at 85 degrees fo an addition 10 days and then lowered it to 80 degrees. Been a few weeks now and no sign of ick.I would like to add that during this whole time none of the angels had any signs of ick and all the fish including the loaches remained very active and showed no signs of stress or illness.Two of thee tiger barbs were the electric green glo fish tiger barbs and it seems as tho when ick appeared on them within a matter of days they both died.So i myself feel u can kill ick in a tank with loaches,plecos and such with good results. The heat speeds the life cycle of ick and salt kills it. It can't be killed while its attached to fish. It must be killed or gotten rid of before it attaches to fish or as soon as it hatches.
     
  9. JayseeFishlore LegendMember

    The heat treatment is suppose to be warm enough to interrupt the life cycle, not just speed it up.

    Clown loaches are warm water fish, so they wouldn't show any stress in the mid 80s because that's what they like. The upper range of their temp preference is 87.
     
  10. dramaneaValued MemberMember

    I had the same thing, and here's what I did: (I couldn't do the salt treatment because it would have hurt my Cory)
    1.Turned the heat up a little. It speeds up the cycle of the three stages of ich and makes it easier to catch.
    2. Turned up my air pump. You're going to need all the oxygen you can get in the water because ich can block up a fishes gills.
    3. Used Mardel Quick Cure. Instead of doing the recommended dosage, do half the dose for twice the time. Other than that, follow their instruction.
    Good luck!
     
  11. MrsMorocco2010Valued MemberMember

    I went to the lfs last night who told me to use double dose of copper on my 1 platy in quarantine. i did not feel comfortable with this so i did a 20% wc and added the normal dose of copper and now the platy is on the bottom of the tank kind of swaying side to side. it does get up and swim around sometimes, but it's now inactive and i fear it may die. the fungus on it's mouth is gone, but it too has broken out in white spots. maybe i should just move it back to the other tank and start my quarantine tank over.

    they told me to use copper on the loaches too because that's what they do and have had no problems.
     
  12. MrsMorocco2010Valued MemberMember

    Well, my quarantine platy died soon after administering copper meds.
     
  13. catsma_97504Fishlore LegendMember

    I am sorry you lost your platy. Follow the link in my signature on curing ICH naturally. It will explain the life cycle, why it will always return if not treated properly and walk you through the 2-week cure.

    But, make sure it is only parasites and not a fungal infection. High heat kills parasites but will turn your tank into a bacterial/fungal incubator if they exist.

    Best of luck curing the remaining fish.
     
  14. MrsMorocco2010Valued MemberMember

    I've been doing the natural cure in our other tank for 6 days now. I had moved this platy due to fungus and the fungus went away, but then the ick was all over her. I should have just moved her back to the other tank, but I tried the copper and she passed very quickly. I'm never doing copper again unless it's on a new fish that I can take back if it dies.
     
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