Help!!!!! Goldfish!!!

Discussion in 'Goldfish' started by Amzwiz87, Aug 9, 2014.

  1. Amzwiz87Valued MemberMember

    I recently gave my dad my old 35 gallon brackish tank and he decided he wants a fresh water with goldfish. We emptied all the water out and and filled it with fresh water. All the levels were good. No ammonia and no nitrites after running for 5 days he got two goldfish. Over night one died and the other is listless. So I realize I'm an idiot and hadn't tested the water with my hydrometer. The SG was 1.004 so we emptied the entire tank and put more fresh water in. The SG is now between 1 and it safe to put the living goldfish back and just test the water in a day or so? Thanks for any help!

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  2. CoradeeModeratorModerator Member

    Did you dechlorinate the water before adding the fish?
    Goldfish are messy fish producing a lot of waste, do you have a filter in the tank?

  3. Amzwiz87Valued MemberMember

    He has well water and yes we still pre treat with water conditioner. And yes there is a filter. The ammonia and nitrites were still zero. The nitrates were a lil high at 20. But now we did a 100% wc and there seems to still be a trace amount of marine salt in the water. It has a SG between 1 and 1.004...which would be a salinity of about 3. Is that safe for goldfish?

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  4. hopeful fishWell Known MemberMember

    I don't know anything about salinity, so I can't answer your question, but the post raises a concern for me. Is the remaining goldfish fancy or common? If it is common, your tank will be overstocked the second it gets bigger. I recommend rehoming it to someone with a sizable pond or returning it to the pet store. If it is a fancy, though, he should be OK in the 35 gallon. Remember that goldfish are very messy fish with a big bioload, and they get much larger than people think they will.
  5. Amzwiz87Valued MemberMember

    It's a fancy goldfish.

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  6. CoradeeModeratorModerator Member

    I can't imagine after two 100% water changes that there'd be a high enough salinity to affect them but I haven't kept goldfish in a very long time @poeticinjustice is the goldfish lady to answer your question about that.
  7. hopeful fishWell Known MemberMember

    Oh good! I'm glad it's a fancy… +1 to coradee. poeticinjustices is the person to ask.
  8. Amzwiz87Valued MemberMember

    Thanks guys.

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    How so I find this mysterious @poeticinjustice person? I am new to this app!

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    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 9, 2014
  9. CoradeeModeratorModerator Member

    We've tagged her, next time she comes on she'll be notified about this thread :)
  10. RivieraneoModeratorModerator Member

    I'd try reducing the salinity down to zero by doing more water changes. i only recommend salt when treating disease or pests. Best of luck.
  11. ameliadanielleValued MemberMember

    Have you checked the SG of the tap water? I have well water and it's very high calcium and other minerals. I've never had a flat 1.000 reading just with my tap water. I get right at or under 1.004 straight out of the tap and my oranda is thriving, that's the water I use with no conditioner because the only thing in my well water is high minerals and nothing will get that out. Try testing the water straight out of the tap and see what you get. I don't know if dissolved minerals in the water mess with the reading or not, but I'm far from the ocean and can't get a 1.000 reading out of the tap. Did you change the substrate? Because if not, you could still have some salt leaching out from anything that was in the tank when it was brackish. I just checked both my goldfish tank and my tropical fresh water tank and they're both at 1.004 with a hydrometer.

    The tank was brackish, I don't know anything about brackish tanks, but you emptied the water and switched to freshwater. So, the bacteria may not be the same (marine and fresh water have different bacteria in the nitrogen cycle and one won't work for the other), and without having a source of ammonia you're going to get a 0,0,0 reading anyway, no matter how many days you wait. When you set up a tank and put water in it, you'll get a perfect reading the first day, the second day, the third day, and so on until there is a source of ammonia in the tank to cycle.

    Goldfish are extremely messy, they're always starving, and they can talk an owner into feeding them way too much because they never seem satisfied. With goldfish, especially if the tank was scrubbed out and started over like brand new, your ammonia can raise extremely quickly. When the cycle starts, and having an overabundance of ammonia, the nitrites will then rise just as quickly. I check my new tanks daily until I'm certain the cycle is complete and then switch to weekly.

    Two goldfish in that tank is fully stocked, maybe overstocked by the time the fish grow up according to which type they are. Also, make sure you don't have a heater. Goldfish do not do well in a tank with warm water. I have no heater in my goldfish tank it's just room temperature, and I use two filters rated for the size of the tank to up the filtration because they are messy.
  12. Amzwiz87Valued MemberMember

    The tap water was 1.00 SG. We are going to do another wc and change the substrate. Poor guy just sits at the bottom of the tank! I hope it will survive. My Dad put him in a big bowl of fresh water until he can change the substrate!

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  13. pickledNew MemberMember

    Hi, I dont think salt is the problem as iv kept goldfish for years and use rock salt every so often as it does perk them up (they swim through the freshly salted area as the granuals dissolve).
    Changing from brackish to freshwater will have killed any bio bacteria in the filter due to the drastic change in water parameters, so it sounds like your experiencing 'new tank syndrome' you need to start the whole nitrogen cycle from the beginning (seachem prime-conditioner and ammonia/nitrite detoxifier, and also seachem stability- liquid bio bacteria are life savers for cycling).

    Also the water that the goldfish were kept in when u brought them was more than likely tap water so taking them from that water and then plonking them into well water would likely cause them harm due to the extreme difference in water parameters - a number one killer is a big difference in the PH of the water they came from to the water they went into (my tap water is 7.4PH, my tank water is 8.0PH - 8.2PH, my friends well water is 6.0PH, If i was to take my goldfish out of my 8.0PH tank water and put them into my friends 6.0PH well water they would die very quickly).

    I would use tap water if its available to u and cycle ASAP, testing the water 2-3 times a day for ammonia / nitrites, then if ammonia or nitrite present do a 50% water change and test again repeating another 50% water change if toxins detected until they show 0. (dont do 100% water changes in one go as it shocks the fish creating too much stress). I had to do this every day until the fish became stable and the bio bacteria levels grew to support the fish, using seachem stability my tank cycled in 7 days, using seachem prime as soon as fish showed distress or ammonia / nitrite detected instantly relieves their distress while u perform the 50% water change.

    Hope this helps, good luck :)
  14. Amzwiz87Valued MemberMember

    The fishie died! RIP Cali. So now I'm afraid to get him any other fish. How can we better acclimate a new fish? Just use something to make the pH closer to 7 or try to drop acclimate them before putting them in the tank?

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  15. RivieraneoModeratorModerator Member

    Hi pickled, I've offered my input on some of the points in your post as I differ in opinion:

    Using salt constantly in a freshwater tank is controversial, I only recommend it when treating disease or parasites, using it as a prophylactic treatment can condition parasites and some bacteria to be resistant to salt when needed. Salt has also shown to be beneficial when treating nitrite poisoning, but in my opinion, continuous use should be avoided.

    Both nitrosomona and nitrobacter growth is inhibited at PH levels below 7.0. Unless there was a drastic change in PH which resulted in PH being below 7.0 for an extended period of time, I dont see how the tanks bacterial colony was affected. Changes in salinity would have at most caused a small stall while the bacteria adjusted to the new salinity, but nothing to a point where a large spike or complete die off would have been obvious, the bacteria would have gone through and adaptation phase and full oxidization of ammonia and nitrite would have continued.

    Proper acclimation procedures should be followed when introducing new fish into a new water source, I agree, I also recommend testing as both well and tap water parameters can change at times without notice, there are many different ways water is carried to our communities which makes these variables at times difficult to control. I test my water source weekly before adding water to my tanks. To me, this is important as you never know if there was a water main that was repaired, a concern which prompted for extra water sanitizer to be added or an old concrete pipe that may have eroded underground and is leaching something nasty into your supply of water.

    It would be difficult to build up your bacterial colony if your ammonia and nitirite readings were always at 0. There has to be some ammonia and nitrite present for bacteria to oxidize these contaminates into energy and eventually multiply. I think a good balance so your fish don't experience stress and your beneficial bacteria are not starved is to keep your ammonia and nitrite levels at or below .25PPM. I've never used Stability before, but i've never heard of a tank cycling in 7 days with a high bioload fish like goldfish unless cycled media was used.

    Sorry your goldie passed :( I dont recommend the use of chemicals that alter your PH as they eventually wear off and cause dangerous fluctuations of PH in your tank. Having a stable PH is more important. If your PH is between 7-8, your goldfish will be ok. If you find that your PH rises in you water after the water has aged for 24-48hours, you may need to age your water to de-gas any CO2, allow for oxygen dissolution and for your PH to stabilize. Best of luck.
  16. DelaneywWell Known MemberMember

    Now I don't have well water, but I have to age my tap water. It drastically changes my PH. We now have to keep a bucket of aged water for water changes. You might try and age a cup of water for two days and test the PH.

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  17. Amzwiz87Valued MemberMember

    Thanks everyone!!

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