Help: betta with fin irritation / injury

Discussion in 'Betta Fish' started by Etone, Aug 6, 2014.

  1. Etone

    EtoneNew MemberMember

    Hello everyone!
    I have a problem with my little guy here... He is a crown tail betta and just yesterday he developed this nasty red "bloody" streak on his lower tail fin :(
    This was after one week of introducing him into his new home, a cycled 20g tank with plants and wood decorations.

    He ignored most of the tank in favour of flaring and attacking his reflection.
    Now I waited to see if he would relax but he did not, and after I preformed a water change he went right back to it... I've taken him out and placed him back into his temporary home, but he seems much calmer and is making his bubble nests again in the small area.
    Is his fin permanently damaged, is it rot, or does he just hate the large tank?
    I've tried many things to remove the reflection but he keeps going to the same spot in the 20g to fight, I can't see a reflection but maybe he can still.
    Here is a picture of his poor tail, and how he flares up.
    It seems like he enjoys the little tank more... I am at a loss, any help would be wonderful.
    (I've placed him in the bowl to heal, and would ideally like to put him back into the 20g to live. )

    ImageUploadedByFish Lore Aquarium Fish Forum1407350585.744495.jpgImageUploadedByFish Lore Aquarium Fish Forum1407350620.413000.jpg

    Sent from my iPhone using Fish Lore Aquarium Fish Forum
  2. mohawk

    mohawkValued MemberMember

    A few checklists to go through before putting the fish in a new tank:

    Are there any other fish in the tank with him?
    Most importantly, have you tested your water for Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates?
    Did you acclimate him in the tank slowly or just plopped him in?
    Is your filter or air pump creating a strong current in the tank?
    Water temp should be between 78F to 80F.

    My betta is in a 10G tank with Neons, and he doesn't like any sort of current. I have to keep my filter at the lowest flow setting to keep the surface current at a minimum.
  3. MamajinWell Known MemberMember

    Hi there, Etone. Nice to have you here on the forums.

    First and foremost it is critical that we know what your current tank parameters are. Before you reply, please test the tank water and then reply back to let us know what the numerical values are for all three tests... Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate.

    You didn't go into much detail about what the colors were in his tail before this began, so it is difficult to say weather or not the black on the fins are from Fin Rot. The red is a bit troubling though. I'll make my suggestions based on what I currently see.

    20 to 30 minute baths in Methylene Blue once per day for a few days. They have small empty pint containers at Lowe's and Home Depot in the paint section for really cheap (maybe a dollar or two).... use that for the bath as Methylene Blue will stain and it will also kill your cycle (so don't get any in the tank). MB is one of the most effective treatments for Fin Rot, Ammonia Burns and Septicemia especially when used in conjunction with a few other medications. Since we're not exactly sure which one we're dealing with or if there is a combination of either of those things, I highly recommend not leaving out this bath as it's a very important part of the treatment. Also take note that MB is very mild on fish and it is not an antibiotic (so there is no chance to form a tolerance). It's safe enough that some breeders use it on fish eggs, and some also ship fish with it in the bags of water.

    Seachem Kanaplex and API Furan 2 (do not confuse Furan 2 with regular Furan): Use both of these together in your hospital tank as directed on the packaging. Weather it's Fin Rot, Septicemia, or Ammonia Burn the combination of these meds should help.

    We also want to prevent Columnaris from showing up so everything above should prevent that, too.

    Water changes are a crucial step towards the healing process, so be sure to stay on top pf those and perform more water changes during this time. Keeping the water temperature stable is also very important, and be sure to keep the temp as low as what is comfortable for your Betta. Bacteria thrive in warmer temps, so keep that in mind.
  4. OP

    EtoneNew MemberMember

    He is white and black, the only thing that has changed is this red part.
    I did not plop him into the tank, he sat for 10 min in his own water then I added 20% more water into the bag with him from the new tank.
    The other fish that is in the 20g has no problems at all. The water is at 77 degrees

    I change the water weekly, and there is a current from the filter.
    I will run to the pet store and get that mb bath ASAP!!

    Sent from my iPad using Fish Lore Aquarium Fish Forum

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