help a noob out?

Discussion in 'Freshwater Invertebrates' started by bigshane, Apr 13, 2010.

  1. bigshaneNew MemberMember

    i would like to add inverts to my tank(30 gallon rectangle)in the future. my conserns are finding ones that are community safe and wont climb out via my heater or tall plants. any recommendation on which ones to reasearch would greatly help me as im a noob. O:;batman
    my perameters are all good but ph 7.4 is a tad high but i dont mess with it. tank fully cycled. 5 cherry barbs.
     
  2. Prince PowderWell Known MemberMember

    What else were you planning on keeping in the tank? That would make a big difference in which, if any, you can safely keep.
     




  3. ryanrModeratorModerator Member

    Red Cherry and Ghost Shrimp are common, and do well in most community tanks, depending on the size of the tank mates. Quite often shrimp will become dinner for larger tank mates. :;laughing

    Snails are also an option.

    As long as you have cover glass/hood, you're inverts shouldn't escape. Most shrimp are bottom dwellers and I think would struggle to climb a heater.

    Check out the shrimp farm for some good reading etc..  
     
  4. JayseeFishlore LegendMember

    A glass top is all that's needed to keep your inverts (crayfish) in the tank. If you plan on keeping other fish in addition to the barbs, dwarf crayfish are a good choice.
     
  5. harpua2002Fishlore VIPMember

    Amano shrimp are nice in addition to the other inverts that were mentioned.

    You're right not to mess with your pH. 7.4 isn't that high and most fish can readily adapt to it. :)
     
  6. bigshaneNew MemberMember

    thanks for the tips so far!! im not 100% sure what i want yet but they will all be community fish. i was thinking of adding 3-4 albino corys and 2 dwarf gourami.i have 5 cherry barbs now 2m3f. but im not set on any plan. im taking my time.
     
  7. ryanrModeratorModerator Member

    OOOHHHHH be careful with 2 dwarf gourami.

    They can be aggressive toward each other, and the general experiences here in fishlore is that an alpha/dominant fish will establish itself.

    Speaking from experience, I had 2 males, one was extremely dominant and aggressive, which I ended up having to return to the LFS. My other DG ended up passing not long ago (I think from DG disease).

    I believe a male/female pair is ok, as is 2 females. The males are prettier/more colourful, but if going M/F, be prepared they could get aggressive when spawning.

    DG's can also be quite sensitive to water parameters.

    Just a heads up, if I was getting DG again, I'd only get one male, or a male and a 2-3 females, but definitely won't get 2 males again.

    Good to see you taking your time and planning :;hf
     
  8. harpua2002Fishlore VIPMember

    How about one pearl gourami instead of a dwarf? They are a lot easier to keep IME, and very pretty once they color up. A pearl won't look like much in the store, but don't let that fool you- once it gets comfortable, it's a really beautiful fish!
     
  9. bigshaneNew MemberMember

    i was thinking about the dwarf gouramis because i want one or two slightly bigger fish like 3-4 inches max. what else would be "friendly" to others.
    with the inverts do i have to allow so many gallons per invert?
    here are some pics of my area of consern for escape.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Apr 13, 2010
  10. ElodeaWell Known MemberMember

    Here's the care sheet for pearl gourami: https://www.fishlore.com/profile-pearlgourami.htm

    I don't think that escaping would be much of a problem unless you're dealing with dwarf crayfish.

    The stocking all depends on the invert.

    Most shrimp have tiny bioloads, so show us your final stocking list and see.

    Cherry shrimp are probably not the best idea, as any gourami (except sparkling and possibly honey) will eat them.

    I would go with some larger shrimp. There are quite a few options:

    Amano shrimp -

    As Harpua mentioned, Amano shrimp can grow up to 2 inches long, therefore a full-grown adult will be in no danger of getting eaten. HOWEVER, the shrimp would be in major danger during the stage of molting, where its shell is soft and vulnerable.

    I would suggest you get many hiding places, such as Java moss (super easy to grow even without any special lighting), driftwood, small caves where the gourami can't get in, etcetera.

    Also, it is wisest not to mix Amano shrimp with other smaller shrimp species, due to the fact that they are very large and could possibly act aggressive, especially when fighting over food.

    Bamboo shrimp -

    I would not advise you to add bamboo shrimp now. Maybe wait for 4 months or so, as these large and impressive invertebrates are also filter feeders, making them notoriously difficult to feed. An aged tank gives them bacteria and protists that would satiate their hunger, however, in an emergency, using a turkey baster to target-feed finely crushed fish flakes might work.

    Bamboo shrimp, like all other shrimp, require hiding spots to conceal themselves when molting, otherwise, they might get eaten. Best stocking would be four or five bamboo shrimp in your tank, but not too many, as there could be a food shortage.

    Tiger shrimp -

    Despite being only slightly larger than red cherry shrimp, tiger shrimp are very good invertebrates to put in your tank. Like most shrimp, they cannot hurt the fish, but are very good scavengers that eat the usual bottom-feeder diet: leftover fish food and occasionally rotting plants.

    Vampire shrimp -

    Assuming you can get your hands on one, these shrimp are a very interesting addition to your tank. Despite their ferocious appearance, vampire shrimp are totally harmless and should not be kept with aggressive fish. They are also not for beginners, owing to the difficulty of keeping them (mainly the food and housing problem).

    Vampire shrimp are the giants of the hobby and resemble crayfish, growing a little larger than 4 inches. However, like the bamboo shrimp, they are filter feeders, and due to their large size, should only be added into a well matured tank of 6 months or even a year. When in the tank, however, they make very impressive (but harmless) specimens. Only one or two should be kept in a tank the size of your's.

    And then of course, there's snails

    Mystery snails -

    Very common, very typical, very easy to raise. Mysteries scavenge all sorts of fish food and shouldn't be too much of a problem to keep alive. Unlike shrimp, snails do have some pretty big bioloads, so don't get too many.

    Freshwater nerite snails -

    These snails are very small. Small as in 0.3 inches to 1 inch in shell diameter. However, they are superb algae eaters that will graze on diatoms, algae, and that gunky stuff on the tank glass. Supplement their diet with algae wafers after they finish with the algae in your tank.

    There are many types of nerite snails. The most common are (in order of size, smallest to largest) horned nerite snails, olive nerite snails, ruby or tracked nerite snails, and zebra nerite snails.

    Tylomelania snails -

    Somewhat rare, these snails should be treated like really, really big Malaysian trumpet snails. They look like huge version of MTS, and act like them too, whatwith the need of a sand substrate, and the usual snail food (sinking pellets, scavenger).

    "Pest (not!)" snails -

    This group contains MTS, ramshorn snails, and pond snails. Acutally, these snails are very beneficial, and should be treated like the typical mystery snail.

    Assasin snails -

    Besides eating all small snails from MTS to ramshorn snails, these snails require a protein diet of, as just mentioned, smaller snail species, as well as pellets. They not very likely to eat algae wafers.
     
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