Harlequin Rasboras clamped fin while in Quarantine?

SLeroux
  • #1
So this is the first time I'm using a QT tank. I have a 10 gallon with seeded media from my 60 that has 6 Harlequin Raspboras. I am nervous I don't know what to look for.

Their colour has improved exponentially which is promising although they aren't active at all. They just hover in a somewhat group. They are eating but not much.

I just did my first pwc to keep the water extra clean and they did not like that. One ended up just sitting on the bottom of the tank. Do they clamp their fins when distressed like Platys?

Also one of them has a bit of what looks like a nibble on his fins. Should I be worried?

Sorry paranoid mom over here!


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GrayGray4231
  • #2
What is the nitrate, and ammonia levels?
 
pRoy33
  • #3
Your doing great! Qt is about taking time to allow any issues to surface. Some people will use meds to help, others just wait. I tried to let my new additions qt about a month before I moved them to my new tank.
 
Fashooga
  • #4
What you should look for is the poop from the fish, if it's brown that's a good sign. If it's clear that's a sign of a internal parasite in the fish. Also look for ich and also keep the water clean. I currently have picus catfish in my QT and one looked lethargic so I changed the water and added some meds. Currently as of this evening it's doing well compared to this morning.

Should you treat? That's up to you. Some will do that while others don't. I don't usually treat, I just watch for what was mentioned above. If they pass after about 2+ weeks they're good go.
 
GrayGray4231
  • #5
White Feces/Long Stringy Poop in Fish. ... However, most of the time, the lumpy and/or white stringy feces (or sometimes even yellow poop) in discus fish is a sign of fecal disorders such as internal diseases and in particular, parasitic infections.
 
SLeroux
  • Thread Starter
  • #6
What is the nitrate, and ammonia levels?

Nitrate 5 and ammonia 0.

Your doing great! Qt is about taking time to allow any issues to surface. Some people will use meds to help, others just wait. I tried to let my new additions qt about a month before I moved them to my new tank.

Thank you! I am trying to have patience but it's not my strong suit haha I'm hoping to keep them in there 3 to 4 weeks depending o. How quickly they improve.


What you should look for is the poop from the fish, if it's brown that's a good sign. If it's clear that's a sign of a internal parasite in the fish. Also look for ich and also keep the water clean. I currently have picus catfish in my QT and one looked lethargic so I changed the water and added some meds. Currently as of this evening it's doing well compared to this morning.

Should you treat? That's up to you. Some will do that while others don't. I don't usually treat, I just watch for what was mentioned above. If they pass after about 2+ weeks they're good go.

Thanks for the tips! I picked up some poop today and it was brown which is great. Will keep my eye out the next few days if their behaviour improves.
 
GrayGray4231
  • #7
What do you feed them? Your ammonia and nitrate levels are perfect! Do they poo less than they usually do?
 
Jenoli42
  • #8
You're doing a great job! we have 2 QTs at the moment - one has 8 bored odessa barbs who kinda just hang out in their spot unless it's feeding time and the other has 5 sterbaI who seem happy enough. none of them like water changes because there aren't as many hiding places like there are in the tanks the fish will soon enough call home. (TBF, even some fish in the home tanks don't like WC's - our kuhlI loaches LOVE wc's and do the happy dance the whole time and for a couple hours after, whereas our rummy noses go pale and hide in a corner for a few hours and then colour back up eventually and beg for food.)

just to be extra careful - have you checked nitrItes? we thought our seeded media was fine for our QTs only to discover after 5-10 days after adding fish that the bio load was bigger than the amount of BB seeded ...and the tanks went into a minI cycle for 5-10 days until the BB caught up. watch for that, based on my experience. but it sounds like you've done everything right.
 
SLeroux
  • Thread Starter
  • #9
I feed them API tropical flakes but have almost everything on hand like Bug Bites, freeze dried daphnia, freeze dried brine shrimp, freeze dried blood worms and frozen blood worms. I haven't seen a ton of poo but have only had them since Saturday. Is that normal?

I'm also used to Platy's that are literally poop machines so don't have a good comparison.

You're doing a great job! we have 2 QTs at the moment - one has 8 bored odessa barbs who kinda just hang out in their spot unless it's feeding time and the other has 5 sterbaI who seem happy enough. none of them like water changes because there aren't as many hiding places like there are in the tanks the fish will soon enough call home. (TBF, even some fish in the home tanks don't like WC's - our kuhlI loaches LOVE wc's and do the happy dance the whole time and for a couple hours after, whereas our rummy noses go pale and hide in a corner for a few hours and then colour back up eventually and beg for food.)

just to be extra careful - have you checked nitrItes? we thought our seeded media was fine for our QTs only to discover after 5-10 days after adding fish that the bio load was bigger than the amount of BB seeded ...and the tanks went into a minI cycle for 5-10 days until the BB caught up. watch for that, based on my experience. but it sounds like you've done everything right.
Nitrate is 0 as well! I plan to test every day and have been dosing stability and stress guard daily since I got them so I hope that helps!
 
Jenoli42
  • #10
Nitrate is 0 as well! I plan to test every day and have been dosing stability and stress guard daily since I got them so I hope that helps!
again, you're onto it! like others have said, the key things to look for are suddenly going pale (without a wc), rubbing against decorations/tank/substrate, white spots, not eating (or spitting out what they eat), stringy white poo, fluffy white patches. we QT ours for 28 days at about 25*C to avoid ich.
 
GrayGray4231
  • #11
How long are your fish? if they are smaller than 2 inches then they are probably "teenager" fish or babies and won't poo that much.
 
SLeroux
  • Thread Starter
  • #12
How long are your fish? if they are smaller than 2 inches then they are probably "teenager" fish or babies and won't poo that much.

Ah that makes a lot of sense, they are about an inch give or take so must be young.

again, you're onto it! like others have said, the key things to look for are suddenly going pale (without a wc), rubbing against decorations/tank/substrate, white spots, not eating (or spitting out what they eat), stringy white poo, fluffy white patches. we QT ours for 28 days at about 25*C to avoid ich.

Thank you! I've been trying to keep their temp at the same as my 60 which is 77. Should I up it?
 
Jenoli42
  • #13
Thank you! I've been trying to keep their temp at the same as my 60 which is 77. Should I up it?

Some people like to keep QTs warmer (ours are warm just because they're small and the house is warm). but I have simply kept the QT in the middle of the range the fish are happiest in, possibly 1 degree warmer. I don't like it being too different from their "home" tank because I don't want to shock them when they eventually get to move in (after acclimating, of course). but some people keep QTs warmer to "flush out" diseases although I have no experience to say if that works or is a good idea. I stick with "keep it at the right temp for the fish"
 
SLeroux
  • Thread Starter
  • #14
Some people like to keep QTs warmer (ours are warm just because they're small and the house is warm). but I have simply kept the QT in the middle of the range the fish are happiest in, possibly 1 degree warmer. I don't like it being too different from their "home" tank because I don't want to shock them when they eventually get to move in (after acclimating, of course). but some people keep QTs warmer to "flush out" diseases although I have no experience to say if that works or is a good idea. I stick with "keep it at the right temp for the fish"
So I unfortunately lost one of my new fish babies ☹️ only been four days! The rest seem active and are shoaling together which is good. All are eating.

I am concerned about one little guy (or girl?). Looks like their tail is worse than my first post. Should I be worried or treating for something?


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Jenoli42
  • #15
oh no! i'm sorry for your loss

that tail does not look good! it looks ragged like it's either been nipped/chewed or possibly fin rot?


 
SLeroux
  • Thread Starter
  • #16
I really hope it's not fin rot! I am now doing daily pwcs so hope that helps as I've read on here that pristine water is the best treatment.

Hope that helps the little guy.
 
pRoy33
  • #17
Mmm, maybe using some sort of medication might help him heal faster. Maybe some of the more experienced members can make some suggestions.
 
SLeroux
  • Thread Starter
  • #18
I've read that Melafix is a good option, thoughts anyone? Would I have to stop the daily pwc?
 
polaroidplus
  • #19
I've read that Melafix is a good option, thoughts anyone? Would I have to stop the daily pwc?
A few days later I know but just in case! Melafix is a great choice, I also do treatments with aquarium salt as things like fin rot are caused by opportunistic bacteria and a little salinity helps to control them. The daily pwc is a good idea until the tail looks like it’s stopped getting worse and you can see new tissue growing

Just remember not to overdose on salt when you do water changes, there is always some salt left in the tank after a water change so remember to control the doses each water change.

If you go with malefix just follow instructions on the packaging
 

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