Hairy Tiny Algae Overtaking Flora

Hello everyone,

For a while now, some sort of tiny hairy green algae has begun to grow on the edges of the leaves of most plants in my tank. I didn't pay much attention to it, but now it's gotten a bit out of control; it started to also grow on the Christmas moss I have, and there it is a particular eyesore.

Do you have any idea what sort of algae it is, and what causes it to multiply so quickly?

Tank has lights on 7 hours/day. I dose EasyLife Pro Fito, and EasyLife EasyCarbo ferts as per indications.

Should I reduce the amount of ferts I add?

20190127_163342

• happah
• Jan 27, 2019

 

7 hours is a long photo period. If this were my tank, I'd clean what I can by gently rubbing the leaves to remove the algae if possible during the next cleaning before you vacuum so you can get what falls off. Then lower the photo period a couple hours, maybe down to 5 hours, and go from there. See how things are in about a week or so then consider adjusting ferts.

 

I don't agree with sinned, 7 hours is unnaturally low.

 

I don't agree with sinned, 7 hours is unnaturally low.

Maybe for a tank that doesn't get ferts. Theres a display tank at my LFS that looks fantastic, uses RO water that's remineralized and has the light on for 12 hours a day. But it also gets absolutely no ferts. Every tank is different.

If OP is following proper dosing for the ferts they are using then I personally would find it easier to have the lights on less as it's as simple as adjusting the timer instead of waiting next week to half dose or skip the ferts all together.

That also being said if the ferts use EI dosing then I'm pretty sure that calls for a weekly %50 water change to remove excess nutrients/proteins the plants don't use in the water that could result in algae. I've personally dealt with this when I switch over to Thrive.

 

My weekly changes are always 50% +. Since I do like to enjoy the sight of my tank, I'd really avoid reducing the amount of light time (in fact I would increase it if I could). I will try reducing the fertilization amount and see if that solves the issue.

 

To me it looks like black beard algae . This stuff spread in my tank . In the end I had to ditch almost all my plants although yours doesn't look too bad .

After reading much about it through different forums I figured it was due to my light being to bright and fluctuations in my co2 I was using diy co2.

I lowered my lights and got myself a proper diy system since then haven't really had any issues .

I wouldn't lower your ferts as this could prompt more problems . Instead try cleaning the plants as above said . Soaking them in a soluton of bleach and water 1 to 10 diluation keeping the roots out eventually the algae turns red after a day when dead . Rinse them and add dechlorination to make sure no bleach goes into your tank .

This problem tends to be too much light that was my problem . If possible lower the setting on your light .

 

It barely looks like you have any algae and your plants look very healthy.

Can you lower your light's brightness? If you can, I'd lower it and keep it on 10 hours a day rather than 7. If not, don't adjust the light timer. Just make sure your nitrates are under 10 ppm, and slightly lower ferts.

You should also remove the algae by rubbing the leaves with a paper towel. I don't think it will come back if you do this since those plants look very strong and healthy.

 

Huh, I cannot dip them since they are planted and well rooted in the tank. I will try scrubbing the algae off or simply cutting the most affected leaves.

Sadly there is no intensity setting on my lights .

I really still cannot figure out why it did appear though. I did not have it (only really little spots here and there) until bout a month ago, amd since it has spread a loot.

 

I kinda think that looks like Blackbeard algae as well, and if so rubbing it off will cause it to spread, so not really what you want to do imo. When you do that strands of it spread around and it grows. I can't remember how to get rid of it ATM, so sorry about that

 

Huh, I cannot dip them since they are planted and well rooted in the tank. I will try scrubbing the algae off or simply cutting the most affected leaves.

Sadly there is no intensity setting on my lights .

I really still cannot figure out why it did appear though. I did not have it (only really little spots here and there) until bout a month ago, amd since it has spread a loot.

TrI'm the roots and replant them . It's what I had to do . I tried to scrub them but it was impossible and would of taken forever . Have you changed anything ?

 

Yeah looks like black beard algae(BBA) and it also looks like you have some Cladophora algae growing on your wood too, or is that Fissidens?

I would trim off all the leaves that are already infested. Do a few water changes while doing this to remove any strands that fall off. I would keep the same hours. What’s your fert dosing schedule look like?

You should start treating with H2O2 or Excel.
This will kill of all the algae. but itll also melt some plants like anacharis, vallisneria, and sometimes moss.

 

Use a Seachem Flourish Excel after a 40 percent water change. Don’t do the water change dose. I never do, don’t want to melt some of my plants. Start using it the day after the water change for 6 days straight. I use full spectrum lighting for 10 hours a day, no issues, can’t imagine an issue with 7, that’s on the low side, unless the tank is by a window getting a lot of sunlight. I had the best success using a beginner feeding schedule from you tube video that works extremely well for my 125 gallon planted community tank. Here it is. Good luck.



Know you nitrates before you dose Nitrogen.

 

Ok guys, so I cannot get rid of the **** thing. I reduced the ferts amount, and tried spot dosing liquid carbon. That works, it kills the algae where I dose, but it pops up somewhere else. It's pretty much everywhere; not in huge quantities, but it is visible and terribly unsightly.

 

Ok guys, so I cannot get rid of the thing. I reduced the ferts amount, and tried spot dosing liquid carbon. That works, it kills the algae where I dose, but it pops up somewhere else. It's pretty much everywhere; not in huge quantities, but it is visible and terribly unsightly.

She you used excel, did you just try and use it as an algicide by applying to the BHA, or did you actually maintain the dosage schedule recommended on the bottle. I had a bad BHA out break and found that following the recommended dosage and using it a syringe to spot does was effective and has completely eradicated it.

Also found SAE, I added six to my community tank eat the algae off the stems and edges of the leaves.

Good luck.

 

Yep, I eved use the maximum dosage allowed. It kills it only where I spot-apply, but everywhere else, it stays and pops up again.

 

Yep, I eved use the maximum dosage allowed. It kills it only where I spot-apply, but everywhere else, it stays and pops up again.

If it was me, I would go back to a chemical imbalance or lighting. From lighting POV what kind of lighting equipment? Does it get any natural lighting. The amount of time the light is on is relative to the lighting equipment you have. Without knowing the specs it would be difficult for anyone to say it to much or to little. What size tank again, how many inches deep? How are your plants doing besides the BHA? Can you post more pics? The poster talking about CO2 is bang on btw. I don’t use it myself, because I’m pretty low tech, even with 125 gallons full of plants. Also curious, what hardness of your water is at the source. You can usually find that range for your community on google.

 

180 L tank, with 2 * 35W T8's, stay on 7-8 hours a day (the algae was there already when it stayed only 7 hours/day). No natural lightning at all. Plants seem to be doing fine, no visible issues there.

GH = 13, KH = 5 ish, so pretty hard water. I don't use actual CO2, only the liquid wannabe.

 

180 L tank, with 2 * 35W T8's, stay on 7-8 hours a day (the algae was there already when it stayed only 7 hours/day). No natural lightning at all. Plants seem to be doing fine, no visible issues there.

GH = 13, KH = 5 ish, so pretty hard water. I don't use actual CO2, only the liquid wannabe.

I don’t know what to tell you. Those numbers look good. I use leds so I can’t comment on your lighting, but it doesn’t seem abnormal.

I had a bad case of BBA that manifested on driftwood. I was using excel at lower doses, when I started doses normal and spot dosing it turned white and disappeared in two weeks. Some strains of my Anubias and an ocelot had it on stems and the ridges of some leaves. It just disappeared. I thought SAE were a gimmick, but they keep the plants clear of it.

Sometimes over feeding and the resulting extra detritus can fuel algae, that’s a long shot.

 

180 L tank, with 2 * 35W T8's, stay on 7-8 hours a day (the algae was there already when it stayed only 7 hours/day). No natural lightning at all. Plants seem to be doing fine, no visible issues there.

GH = 13, KH = 5 ish, so pretty hard water. I don't use actual CO2, only the liquid wannabe.

How old are the bulbs in your light?

Been awhile since I used fluorescent bulbs but I seem to remember changing the bulbs made a dramatic improvement on the bba growing in my tank. The stuff faded to gray and went away.

Was counterintuitive because the new lights seemed brighter but probably had to do with which spectrum of light was being provided. It is a subtle deterioration of the old light over time so you don't really notice it.

 

Hm, they are probably about 1 year old;

EDIT: I changed the lights now, since I had 2 spares that I got with the tank; I'm not so sure those were new either, and one of them has a red-ish tint; looks cool but not sure they're stronger than the other ones.

 

This is BBA and cladophora algae. These algae are NOT caused by "excess nutrients" or high lighting. These algaes are caused by a lack of CO2 or CO2 fluctuations.

The only real solution to this algae is addressing the CO2 issue and installing a pressurized system. Increasing the CO2 in the tank will cause the algaes to turn red and then disappear.

 

So I guess I'm stuck with the Algae for a good 1-2 years then ((

 

This is BBA and cladophora algae. These algae are NOT caused by "excess nutrients" or high lighting. These algaes are caused by a lack of CO2 or CO2 fluctuations.

The only real solution to this algae is addressing the CO2 issue and installing a pressurized system. Increasing the CO2 in the tank will cause the algaes to turn red and then disappear.

Disagree with half of that.

CO2 is in water without having to be added and naturally occurs in the planted aquarium. Every weekly water change CO2 is added to the tank. Hardness of water is also relative to CO2 levels and fluctuation. Your water is plenty hard for plants.

Although nutrients may not be the direct cause of algae, algae does compete with plants for nutrients.

Your post did give me an idea though. For the OP, one thing I never considered was your watts per gallon. If you have a high-tech lighting, I think about 3 watts per gallon or more, you will need a CO2 system because of the CO2 fluctuations from photosynthesis which will occur until CO2 is used up. This usually causes a change in dH. Ph will become unstable throughout the day and can lead to reading as high as 9 plus, and then a normal reading sometime the next day.

I use a full spectrum led light bar, and sit at about 2.16 incandescent watts per gallon. My BBA was introduced from a LFS, once I go rid of it, it didn’t come back. I don’t use CO2. I do use a full spectrum of additives for plant care without any issues.

Hope that helps you.

 

Disagree with half of that.

CO2 is in water without having to be added and naturally occurs in the planted aquarium. Every weekly water change CO2 is added to the tank. Hardness of water is also relative to CO2 levels and fluctuation. Your water is plenty hard for plants.

Although nutrients may not be the direct cause of algae, algae does compete with plants for nutrients.

Your post did give me an idea though. For the OP, one thing I never considered was your watts per gallon. If you have a high-tech lighting, I think about 3 watts per gallon or more, you will need a CO2 system because of the CO2 fluctuations from photosynthesis which will occur until CO2 is used up. This usually causes a change in dH. Ph will become unstable throughout the day and can lead to reading as high as 9 plus, and then a normal reading sometime the next day.

I use a full spectrum led light bar, and sit at about 2.16 incandescent watts per gallon. My BBA was introduced from a LFS, once I go rid of it, it didn’t come back. I don’t use CO2. I do use a full spectrum of additives for plant care without any issues.

Hope that helps you.

CO2 levels in a Lowtech aquarium are no where near ideal for submerged aquatic plants. The average Lowtech aquarium will usually have less than 10ppm of CO2. Submerged aquatic plants will only really thrive in water with 25-30ppm. Most aquatic plants are only meant to be submerged for a period of weeks or months. They grow above the water most of the year where they have atmospheric levels of CO2. The only true Lowtech plants are jungle val, Anacharis, and hornwort, because they are true aquatics that cannot grow emersed (above the water line). Plants like this are adapted to low CO2 levels in a Lowtech tank. When plants are submerged in natural ecosystems, the water usually has around 20-30ppm CO2 because of the insane amount of organic decay going on in the substrate. The substrate is likely a cumulative organic mix of many decades or even centuries, so
The CO2 produced by the decay must be enough to feed the plants. Not to mention the shallow conditions and flow of most streams and rivers provide ideal light and CO2 conditions for plants.

As far as I know, CO2 doesn't affect GH and GH levels. It only affects pH levels.

What do you mean by hard water? Hard water could be high GH or high pH. High pH isn’t necessarily desirable for aquatic plants. Most plants available in the hobby are found in soft water rivers and stream in South America and Asia.

I saw in your previous post that you got rid of your BBA by excel and using SAEs. Now, I don’t think this is truly getting rid of the algae. If you take away the SAE, it may come back because these will eat BBA. If what you’re doing right now keeps the algae away, by all means continue to do it. But it’s not a “true” solution to the actual issue at hand which is insufficient or fluctuating CO2 levels.

I used to have a tank with very high CO2 and nutrient levels. I often take BBA infested plants from my LFS or friend’s and “cured” these plants. The algae would turn red and die. There were no fish or shrimp in this tank. Just high CO2 and nutrients.

As for nutrients and algae, algae barely uses any. Limiting “nutrients” will just hurt the plants that need a ton of nutrients compared to algae. Getting rid of ammonia (rotting fish food, detritus, mulm, and rotting plant matter) will prevent most algaes.

 

CO2 levels in a Lowtech aquarium are no where near ideal for submerged aquatic plants. The average Lowtech aquarium will usually have less than 10ppm of CO2. Submerged aquatic plants will only really thrive in water with 25-30ppm. Most aquatic plants are only meant to be submerged for a period of weeks or months. They grow above the water most of the year where they have atmospheric levels of CO2. The only true Lowtech plants are jungle val, Anacharis, and hornwort, because they are true aquatics that cannot grow emersed (above the water line). Plants like this are adapted to low CO2 levels in a Lowtech tank. When plants are submerged in natural ecosystems, the water usually has around 20-30ppm CO2 because of the insane amount of organic decay going on in the substrate. The substrate is likely a cumulative organic mix of many decades or even centuries, so
The CO2 produced by the decay must be enough to feed the plants. Not to mention the shallow conditions and flow of most streams and rivers provide ideal light and CO2 conditions for plants.

As far as I know, CO2 doesn't affect GH and GH levels. It only affects pH levels.

What do you mean by hard water? Hard water could be high GH or high pH. High pH isn’t necessarily desirable for aquatic plants. Most plants available in the hobby are found in soft water rivers and stream in South America and Asia.

I saw in your previous post that you got rid of your BBA by excel and using SAEs. Now, I don’t think this is truly getting rid of the algae. If you take away the SAE, it may come back because these will eat BBA. If what you’re doing right now keeps the algae away, by all means continue to do it. But it’s not a “true” solution to the actual issue at hand which is insufficient or fluctuating CO2 levels.

I used to have a tank with very high CO2 and nutrient levels. I often take BBA infested plants from my LFS or friend’s and “cured” these plants. The algae would turn red and die. There were no fish or shrimp in this tank. Just high CO2 and nutrients.

As for nutrients and algae, algae barely uses any. Limiting “nutrients” will just hurt the plants that need a ton of nutrients compared to algae. Getting rid of ammonia (rotting fish food, detritus, mulm, and rotting plant matter) will prevent most algaes.

Wow that’s a lot of good information

I’m just keeping it simple here. If you are going no CO2 may want to look at wattage per gallon. A high wattage per gallon will most likely require CO2.

What works for me, isn’t going to work for everyone else, because every set up is unique. I don’t keep hI tech plants. Ferns, micro swords, amazons, ocelots, different Anubias, Val, sag, hornwort, Moss , bacopa, etc. If I did I would up my wattage and use CO2

That’s all I got

Cheers