guppies

skippi

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All you need is 2 females for every male puit them in a tank and you wil get babies. I have guppies and platy and we get new fry every month. just make sure you have the right ratio of male to females or the males will stress out your female and kill her. Good luck!!!

Heidi
 

0morrokh

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You need a ratio of 1 m to 2 f. If you have 1 m to 1 f then the male will constantly chase the same female and stress her out and possibly even kill her.
 

guppygranny

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I'm so sorry to hear about your angels. They can be difficult, as they can be hard to sex and need a lot of room and fairly complex breeding needs. You can hardly go wrong with guppies, though. I've had them for years and never tire of the colors and hardiness of this forgiving little fish.
My system is simple and works well for me. As I have so many, I'll try to break it down to beginner size.
Start with water. One teaspoon aquarium salt per gallon of water. I have well water with a pH of 7.2. If you use tap water, age it at least 10 days before using, or condition it with a solution designed to remove chlorine and cholamine. For a small scale operation, keep at least 2 gallons of prepared water on standby for emergencies. Drinking water (not distilled) from the store comes in handy in a pinch, just add the tsp of salt per gallon. I also collect rain water to use. Don't start collecting it until after it's been raining for awhile, as it will be less polluted. I don't recommend river or lake water. Boiling it will kill organisms, but the toxins from boat fuel could remain.
Filtration. My harem tank (all female) uses a large foam filter, plus a good external filter. These make it easy to clean. I 'vacuum' once or twice a week when I perform the water exchanges. Ghost shrimp, algae eaters, and corydoras consume any excess food, snails keep the algae on the glass down.
Breeding: I highly recommend isolating any female you hope to breed in a separate container for a period of two weeks. This is to be sure that one, she is healthy, with no signs of ick, fungus, or 'wasting', and two, she is not already pregnant. Another benefit is she can be given 'spa' treatment. Feed her small amounts often, including plant-based food, like spirulina, and live food, such as brine shrimp, small mosquito larvae, and tiny baby worms. She should share the tank with some sort of scavenger. By the end of 2 weeks, she should be robust, active and fins erect. She should at this time be introduced into a 'honeymoon' aquarium. This should be an aquarium of no less than 10 gallons. I would put no more than 3 conditioned females in this size tank, and be sure to provide some hiding/resting places for the fish. I keep my stud males in 2 gallon cylinders where they receive individual attention. Keeping them separate (as you might keep a betta) discourages disease and fin nipping. The bachelor pads are not filtered, but are planted with anacharis, an excellent oxygenator. I perform water exchanges weekly. In this quiet, stress-free environment, they are very healthy, colorful, and have excellent long fins. The males are introduced to the honeymoon tank a few days after the ladies in a ratio of 2 males, 1 female. All are closely observed and any fish unduly stressed is removed to recuperate separately. Once pregnancies become evident, the females are returned to their spawning tanks that have been planted thickly with anacharis. They are given the same diet used to condition them until their bellies begin to become angular toward the front. This is a sign that they are going to drop their babies in a few hours. I give them live food exclusively at this time.
Fry: The babies instinctively wiggle to the plants. Very few are lost if they have protection and mom is well fed. I remove the mother after a few hours recuperation and she is returned to the harem tank, given a sabatical so to speak. I then remove about half the plants from the fry tank and look for any dead or deformed fry. Dead ones are fed to my Venus fly trap, deformed ones are culled to my community tank. Please don't think ill of me for this necessary job.
Feeding: Finely crushed adult food, newly hatched brine shrimp, or commercially prepared baby fish food work well. SMALL frequent feedings, with meticulous housekeeping recommended.
Maintenance: Water exchanges, 20 percent once or twice a week, done slowly over one hour. Snail to scavenge.
Growth: They grow quickly! Some will grow faster than others. Males will develope 'fused' ventral fins that grow into their gonadopodium. As soon as possible, separate the sexes. Girls can be placed in a harem tank. Males can be housed together, but will quickly spar for space. These 'mini-battles' are interesting to watch, but occasionally fin damage can occur. Best kept and fed separately. Watch for color and fin developement, choose what you really like, keep one or two of the best males and sell, trade, or give away your excess.
Misc: I give them vacations outdoors in the summer. My artificial ponds promote size and health. Tip: KEEP IT SIMPLE. Start s l o w l y.
Best of luck, hope I helped. Guppygranny.
 
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